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Main Boards => Long Distance Walks => Topic started by: Ridge on 09:26:56, 13/09/20

Title: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 09:26:56, 13/09/20
Here is the trip report from our Pennine Way walk this summer.

I’m going to post a few lines and pictures from each day. For anyone new to the forum then you can find out more about the walk and why we are raising money for the Teenage Cancer Trust here;
http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=39958.0http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=39958.0 (http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=39958.0http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=39958.0)
I must mention the huge support I felt from the forum when my son was ill and also your generosity in donating. I cannot overstate how touched I have been by the kindness of people I had never met.
Having had to cancel our plans in 2016 and then again in June 2020 we were determined, somehow, to manage to do the walk this year. Particularly after so many people had already given so generously. We talked about camping some of the nights if no other accommodation was available but with long days to walk I hoped, if at all possible, to avoid carrying camping gear. In the end we managed to book places to stay all the way through though, right to the end, I was worried about somewhere cancelling on us. With all but one of the YHAs closed it also became quite an expensive expedition. It is a once in a lifetime experience, I tried not to think about the cost.


With the covid restrictions we also had to arrange places to eat each evening as many pubs were only working on bookings. I ended up with an excel spread sheet showing where we were staying, eating and going to buy lunch.
The majority of our preparation was logistics, we bought no new kit and, apart from sometimes deliberately walking further than 20 miles in a day, did no particular training.


I’ve used the distance figures which my son recorded on Strava for each day. They are generally further than we expected. Sometimes, though not always, this is due to the distance we walked off the path for accommodation. I have yet to see a list of measurements for each stage which adds up to the 268 miles which everywhere quotes as the length of the Pennine Way.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200827_112931(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/5c5e44ac-4dc5-471d-b530-1c23f2fef835)
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 09:31:49, 13/09/20
DAY 1 - 23rd August 2020
Edale to Crowden
20.3 miles 32.67km
8.50am to 5.20pm

I don’t know when I really accepted that we were actually, eventually, walking the Pennine Way but it certainly wasn’t on the first day as my Dad drove us from the home I grew up in along the familiar lanes to Edale. This is a section of the PW which I have walked many times before and, as there was no accommodation open in Crowden I would be back in my old bedroom that evening too.
We took the obligatory photo outside the Nags Head and set off in short sleeves.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200823_084701(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/83b38e12-aaf5-4b67-a84c-c0a1f4ea2584)


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200823_085406(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/036d039b-3119-4bd8-97bc-963f61ab503e)

The clouds were low and by the time we got to the bottom of Jacobs Ladder we were in full waterproofs and it should more accurately have been renamed Jacobs River.
As we ascended Kinder we disappeared in to the cloud. Had we walked on our intended dates earlier in the year we would have been sweltering in a heat wave and complaining about being too hot, today we were getting the full PW experience.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/IMG_20200823_102832.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/423ba935-0ea6-49b8-be29-1edaec412d98)

There were quite a few people about and far too many of them were not dressed for the conditions. We met a family who looked like they were taking their dog for a walk round the local park talking to a man in full camo gear. Clearly they were not happy and we stopped to see if we could help. The family had nothing with them and were trying to get back to Edale. We pointed them in the right direction and encouraged them to ask people as they went.

The paths were like streams and, crossing on to Bleaklow, the streams were rivers.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200823_140648(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/ea4e78d0-aaea-4620-94f2-1f572b4ca233)

Crossing the rivers became a major obstacle. Later in the walk we met someone who had gone thigh deep in here.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200823_144650(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/4ff48606-2b50-4b44-97ac-62a8ccc61f5d)

Coming down towards Crowden we dropped out of the cloud only to discover that the path across the dam wall at Torside reservoir was closed and we had just over 2 miles extra to walk which felt like a long way at the end of a tough days walking.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 09:44:02, 13/09/20
I'm going to post a day or two at a time so you can either wait to the end to read it all or comment as we go, whichever you prefer.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: pleb on 10:00:04, 13/09/20
When was this, I didn't know you had been anywhere?
Top marks, this already puts my trip reports to shame  :-[
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 10:53:40, 13/09/20
Good to see some more pics and hear more about your trip, looking forward to reading them all :)


I'm not sure how the distance is calculated to be 268 miles.  I know the routes I plan in Garmin's BaseCamp program never add up exactly to 268, although the first time I did it my GPS gave an overall total of 266.

Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: harland on 11:14:57, 13/09/20
the first time I did it my GPS gave an overall total of 266.
You obviously cheated and took a short cut so you will have claimed your free pint under false pretentions! ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 12:15:27, 13/09/20
I'm not sure how the distance is calculated to be 268 miles.  I know the routes I plan in Garmin's BaseCamp program never add up exactly to 268, although the first time I did it my GPS gave an overall total of 266.
I think any way of measuring it is going to have discrepancies, Strava put us in the middle of a reservoir on one occasion. I know the paths were boggy but I'm sure I would have noticed. There are also alternative routes at times so it depends which way you go. The distances I was working from I had found on line and they added up to 262.6miles but according to Strava we actually walked 278miles.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: harland on 12:40:27, 13/09/20
Wainwright shows 270 miles via Grindsbrook Clough (although that is 1 1/2 miles shorter than via Upper Booth) but includes up & down of The Cheviot.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 12:43:43, 13/09/20
That's the way I went when my GPS measured 266 so i even took more of a shortcut  ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: harland on 12:48:38, 13/09/20
That's the way I went when my GPS measured 266 so i even took more of a shortcut  ;D
Not that I am religious but I think that you need to walk the Camino and ask for absolution! It is also a good excuse to get away for 5 weeks
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 13:21:55, 13/09/20
Your pictures certainly catch the conditions that you encountered!
Keep the reports coming.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 15:13:27, 13/09/20
DAY 2 – 24th August 2020
Crowden to Diggle
12.6 miles 20.27km
8.50am to 3.15pm


My Dad dropped us where he had picked us up the night before in Crowden. But something felt wrong, we looked up, nice weather, blue sky, a cooling breeze. Perfect walking conditions!
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200824_090508(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/f58166af-a23f-4b07-9098-facf160e87de)


Looking back at Bleaklow, we could see it.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200824_091751(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/8e17376a-9573-44a8-84cf-24b09c169327)


There were a number of birdwatchers as we climbed up the valley and eventually I had to ask one of them why they were all there. A bearded vulture from Spain had failed with his map and compass work and was slowly heading north across the UK getting birdwatches very excited as he went.

River crossings still tricky.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200824_104430(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/101834c0-cd6f-415a-ad88-7599c0e7d048)


This was by far our shortest day, due to where there were places to stay, and we took it at a leisurely pace.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200824_112252(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/4f2d3cb7-e833-449c-93ac-397ab2934fba)


On the top of Black Hill we met 2 men also walking the PW and continued to see them on and off throughout the day. They were taking our day 2 and 3 as one stage so had 28 miles to do that day, we calculated that they would be walking until at least 9.30pm.


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200824_122625(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/81fe57dd-2cfc-4637-9022-25657c88e6d9)


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200824_134045(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/31db0a19-95d2-44d0-b0bc-fedfd869c1a3)


That night in the pub we did what came to be called our ‘homework’, going inch by inch over the route for the next day.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 17:05:20, 13/09/20
Excellent stuff - keep them coming!
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 18:56:14, 13/09/20
That night in the pub we did what came to be called our ‘homework’, going inch by inch over the route for the next day.


That's my routine too, always best to be prepared  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 19:19:40, 13/09/20

That's my routine too, always best to be prepared  O0
We did have strict standards. I would post on the forum and Rob update Justgiving as soon as we got the chance but 'homework' (going over the map) only happened after we had eaten and were on to drink 2.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 19:43:44, 13/09/20
 ;D  that may explain the odd diversion  ;)
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 07:53:49, 14/09/20
DAY 3 – 25th August 2020
Diggle to Heptonstall
17.18 miles 27.65km
7.50am to 3.20pm


At breakfast we met 3 other PWers, though only one of them did we ever meet again.
The owner of the accommodation took us back up to the PW in his car, it would have been a long drag up hill without the lift.
Today was wet, wild and windy. Thanks Storm Francis.
Going along the edge at Standage was one of the 2 or 3 places we checked our position by GPS on the whole walk.

I was not looking forward to the bridge over the M62 in the high wind and rain but the weather kindly relented for us briefly as we went across before closing in again immediately we got to the other side.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/IMG_20200825_093550.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/513341fc-b027-4316-be57-b1d69f052648)


The day did calm down in the middle and we managed to sit for our lunch rather than eating on the hoof as we do on bad weather days. Then the rain returned.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/IMG_20200825_095952.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/a815f58a-622e-4812-afc8-e8f2dbf915fc)


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/IMG_20200825_101314.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/85f5abd1-0925-42b4-915f-dc341235dec5)


Eventually, after watching it grow steadily larger for hours we arrived at Stoodley Pike and as we arrived so did torrential rain.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/IMG_20200825_130636.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/447c6d4a-302c-41f2-9e00-6491e56c0368)

We were staying in Heptonstall and had the choice of either a bus ride or an extra 1.5 miles walking to get to our accommodation. With the rain and wind at full pelt again we realised that unless we got a shift on we would miss the once hourly bus and either be walking or waiting in the awful weather. We flew up and down the steep hills from the Rochdale canal to Colden panting up the inclines and sliding down the muddy paths. We made it to the bus with 5mins to spare.

Our room in the pub had a large bathroom in which was a hot water tank which looked like it supplied the whole building. We turned the radiator and heated towel rail on to full, opened the hot water cupboard and hung our soaking kit on every available surface. When we returned from the bar it was like a sauna but by the morning everything apart from our boots was dry.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 08:01:43, 14/09/20
Making use of the hot water tank made me smile!
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 08:28:16, 14/09/20
I'm surprised that we didn't strip the wall paper, even with the windows slightly open and the extractor in the bathroom left on it was very hot and steamy in the room.


Another thing which shocked me about this and a number of other places we stayed was that they didn't want us to take off our boots, even though I always tried to, and would then show us in to rooms with beige carpets.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 12:14:34, 14/09/20
Possibly they knew in the conditions the rain would have washed them clean  ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 16:21:36, 14/09/20
DAY 4 – 26th August 2020
Heptonstall to Cowling
16.62 miles 25.14km
8.50am to 3.15pm


We got the bus back to the PW and went straight to May’s Shop. A PW institution and purveyor of anything your heart could desire. Here we set the template for all future lunches with cake, in this case glorious iced buns, and apples. My right knee was feeling strange, I think I had done something to it the day before on our sprint up and down the hills at the end of the day. I bought some ibuprofen which was, annoyingly, the only thing I had meant to pack that I didn’t have with me. My one concern on the trip was that one of us would pick up an injury as I knew that otherwise we should be OK with the distances, terrain and walking consecutive days.


Stoodley Pike now behind us.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200826_090559(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/2e96cc7a-cb3f-4db5-9efd-0092617f99bd)


It was an overcast day with patches of sun. We met a couple, he was a photographer and asked if he could take a photograph of us as we walked away. To be honest it was nice to be asked as we wouldn’t have known if he had just taken it. I do regret not giving him my email so that he could send us a copy.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200826_094226(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/462134b2-3fe7-479f-a8a0-821083599448)


The paths, as they were or the entire walk, were absolutely sodden and at one point I miss judged the mud and came within a whisker of going in over the top of my boot.
There were plenty of people about as we passed Top Withens.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200826_113853(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/b050e221-2a77-4214-9f0a-f2423f303685)


Heading over the moors we met another lad and dad pair, though they were considerably younger than us the boy being about 9 I would think. They were walking for 4 days south on the PW to their home near Hebden Bridge. This was their second day so they had been out in the foul weather the day before. I remember a couple of times when my son was younger that people taking an interest in his walking when we met them on the hills really encouraged him, I hope we did the same for this lad.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200826_132616(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/6328197d-0e50-4c71-a363-7aac432a7165)


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200826_145926(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/bfaacba0-e1ea-4ab1-bc25-139ca5e57f49)


The rain, having  generally held off all day, got us in the end. We turned up at our B&B damp, though the rain had stopped by then, and they took our boots off to dry by the Aga. They also told us about the father and son that had been there the night before, the ones we had met earlier in the day. It sounded as if everything they owned had been Aga dried.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: rural roamer on 16:50:20, 14/09/20
Loving the gradual reports Ridge, something to look forward to read each day! Gosh you did have it wet, looks worse than when we did it and I thought that was bad! And you haven't even got to the worst boggy bits yet. Our mileages have never added up correctly on any LDW, mind you that might be because we include any off route bits to accommodation  ;D  Our PW total was 277.5 but that will include walking to the Old House at Crowden, walking down into Diggle, Langdon Beck, Old Repeater Station at Housesteads and probably meeting the minibus at Trowse Farm.  No navigational errors of course!  :D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 17:25:31, 14/09/20
Enjoying the reports Ridge  :)  Love the shot of Top Withens  O0


Still chuckling at the hot water tank  ;D


PS, you can make the TR's longer if you like, we want more  :)
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 17:28:55, 14/09/20

Loving the gradual reports Ridge, something to look forward to read each day!
Pleased you are enjoying them RR, I'll try and do another instalment tonight.
Our mileage also included to and from accommodation.


PS, you can make the TR's longer if you like, we want more  :)
I struggle enough knowing what to write the length they are.

Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 17:33:00, 14/09/20
I struggle enough knowing what to write the length they are.


 ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: karl h on 17:59:33, 14/09/20
Well I'm enjoying my virtual Pennine way so far...finding it quite easy actually, although I slightly tweaked my elbow reaching for the biscuit tin :)
Id be careful that the Yorkshire tourist board don't nick that beautiful photo of Top Withens O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 18:14:33, 14/09/20
Thanks Karl.
I waited for ages to take the Top Withens photo, not waiting for the light or the clouds or anything like proper a photographer I just wanted the people wearing bright orange to shift which they eventually did.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: emdaw on 19:44:03, 14/09/20
Enjoying reading your reports, our Pennine way had to be put off till next June due to lockdown.  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 21:27:49, 14/09/20
That's a shame but probably sensible.
Note to self, don't be too rude about the odd people we met on our way to Dufton.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 21:36:19, 14/09/20
DAY 5 – 27th August 2020
Cowling to Malham
19.41 miles 31.24km
7.55am to 4.30pm


It was a misty morning as the climbed the hill out of Cowling.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200827_081111(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/3ae898c4-f9e4-472e-8a38-19402490d741)


Today we shifted from the moors to the dales as we headed north.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200827_112156(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/92063b85-d58f-4e01-844d-52b2f8c90129)


We also had a section along the Leeds Liverpool canal.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200827_113708(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/81b42a48-98fc-4e86-be67-01a9ffc8732f)


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200827_113958(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/bea54efc-2423-4ef2-8be8-31a515df733c)


Having investigated on line the possible places to eat in Malham, and winced at the prices, today was the only day we planned to have our main meal at lunchtime. I sent my wife a picture of us tucking in at the Dalesman in Gargrave and got a shocked response.

The weather played a similar trick on us as yesterday and as we walked along the river towards Malham at the end of the day it decided to rain.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200827_150812(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/cdcf432a-1712-4d5d-b577-f1671baa2f35)

Quite a lot of people as we came in to Malham and loads and loads of cars.
Our accommodation was slightly quirky and after we had eaten food we bought in Gargrave we decided to head to the pub. It was still raining heavily. I don’t think The Buck in Malham are used to people arriving in full waterproofs, stripping them off and hanging them about to dry and then removing their boots and leaving them to gently dry by the fire at the other side of the room. Nothing was ever said but we decided we should probably slope off when someone arrived at the table next to ours wearing a suit.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200827_180837(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/5cb482f3-835b-40dd-a8b3-821e30bd0311)


Back at the accommodation we met the other residents in the lounge. There were six of them, 1 man and 5 women, all from Hull. At least they started by saying they were all from Hull and then very quickly told us the places that they were from which were definitely outside Hull and, in fact, absolutely not Hull at all. They were all in their 50s or early 60s I would guess and with a wide selection of lovely dogs. They were really nice and it was a joy to sit and talk to them for a while, I just couldn’t work out what their connections were.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: harland on 22:11:51, 14/09/20
Their website shows "Rest assured that The Buck welcome muddy boots" - however it doesn't mention the people wearing them!
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 22:45:18, 14/09/20
Their website shows "Rest assured that The Buck welcome muddy boots" - however it doesn't mention the people wearing them!
;D


At £4.60 a pint they welcome those with large wallets. I'm still in shock 2 weeks later.
To be fair they never said a thing as we turned their pub in to an impromptu drying room.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 07:18:35, 15/09/20
Those people from Hull sound slightly dodgy if you ask me  ;)


The pub must be used to people coming in with muddy boots on. Perhaps that is why it is £4.60 a pint, to pay for the clean up afterward?  ;)
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 08:23:26, 15/09/20
DAY 6 – 28th August 2020
Malham to Horton in Ribblesdale
16.65 miles 26.8km
8.55am to 3.20pm


We had asked for an early breakfast and been told this wouldn’t be a problem. It may not have been a problem for the person we talked to yesterday but the cook this morning wasn’t impressed. I don’t feel it was my fault that the message wasn’t passed on.

Rain, wind and cloud were very much the order of the day today.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/IMG_20200828_085656.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/7763a2fc-5307-4a32-8135-f296e0e74cd4)

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/IMG_20200828_090543.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/ab8622f8-7d19-4358-978b-951879e79f56)


Climbing up to the top of the cove in the wind I had no desire to go anywhere near the edge.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/IMG_20200828_092858.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/caa2a5ce-d3a3-47c8-be9e-d9f7993a5bdb)

Today it really felt as if we had travelled a long way as I remembered much of the early part of the walk from holidays then I was young.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/IMG_20200828_101822.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/9b9075ad-b35a-4380-afe2-82b02fde3acc)

Past the tarn we met one of the people we had seen at our accommodation in Diggle and then another PW walker who we later found out was called Charlie.
Fountains Fell was deep in cloud, very windy and the heavily waterlogged path not actually going over the top made it all feel a bit strange. We dropped down, and out of the cloud to be greeted by Pen-y-ghent.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200828_122119(3).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/eaa28db3-e344-4a3b-9829-86c33e04a4e7)

As we were leaving the road to start the walk-in to the bottom of the hill Charlie caught up with us and we walked and talked, a really nice, sociable young guy. We pulled ahead of him on the climb up to the very very windy summit where we clung together for a picture.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200828_135952(3).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/3bfa6454-4db9-461b-b8a3-54f6b7fed6d7)

I hadn’t realised until we headed to it that the Pen-y-ghent cafe has been closed for 2 years.
We were staying at the Golden Lion which was having to turn people away they were so busy. It was the start of the bank holiday weekend. Rob suddenly remembered that he had been there about 18 months ago camping next to the pub with some friends. Did he recall the hills or even the names of the places, no it was the interior of the bar which triggered his memory.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Jac on 10:01:24, 15/09/20
Really enjoying your TR. Perfect balance of super photos with concise, informative text and humour.
Though, with the probability of weather as you enjoyed I know why the PW has not figured high on my to-do list.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: pleb on 10:21:39, 15/09/20
;D


At £4.60 a pint they welcome those with large wallets. I'm still in shock 2 weeks later.
To be fair they never said a thing as we turned their pub in to an impromptu drying room.
HOW MUCH?
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 10:30:47, 15/09/20
Though, with the probability of weather as you enjoyed I know why the PW has not figured high on my to-do list.
We've not got the worst weather yet, it was wonderful Jac, do it.


HOW MUCH?
Quite. No danger of becoming an alcoholic in Malham.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: jimbob on 11:37:31, 15/09/20
HOW MUCH?
Gee Ridge £4.60 a pint. My heart went into fluttering, the pacemaker did its job. I wonder how many readers are now filling cardiac wards.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 12:28:37, 15/09/20
Anyone else that I tell about the Pennine Way are shocked by the distance, terrain and the weather we encountered.
With other walkers it is the price of beer which has people taken aback.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: rural roamer on 12:58:54, 15/09/20
I’d be shocked about the weather if you said it was blue sky and sunshine all the way!  ;D
All our non-walker friends and acquaintances can never understand how a LDW is actually a holiday that we enjoy. You’re never going to shock anyone on this forum with the terrain, distance and weather, if you do they're on the wrong forum!
Quirky accommodation in Malham - not Miresfield Farm was it?

Note to self, don't be too rude about the odd people we met on our way to Dufton.
That wasn’t the day you met up with April and beefy was it?  ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Warbler on 13:14:23, 15/09/20
I’m enjoying the journey so far Ridge. Seeing some of the weather you had compared to my walk in the south east last week, seems like a different country.
Them Hull folk are a simple breed……but happy.
 I should know, I lived the first 23 years of my life there  ;D


Those people from Hull sound slightly dodgy if you ask me  ;)

Oi! Less of the slightly  :o
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 14:43:43, 15/09/20
Quirky accommodation in Malham - not Miresfield Farm was it?
How did you guess? We were originally staying in the YHA but, with them closed, I was glad to find places open that did not break the bank.


Quote
 
That wasn’t the day you met up with April and beefy was it?  ;D
No, some other strange forum people.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: rural roamer on 15:19:29, 15/09/20
How did you guess?
We actually stayed there 33 years ago when our daughter was a baby and we walked with her in a backpack. We went back a few years later with our son as well. So we had to stay there when walking the Pennine Way! I don’t think it had changed much in those years, certainly needs updating, but it was at least clean which is the main thing.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 15:42:43, 15/09/20
We actually stayed there 33 years ago
It did feel like nothing had changed, or much done to the property, for about 33 years.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 16:07:26, 15/09/20
DAY 7 – 29th August 2020
Horton in Ribblesdale to Hawes
15.44 miles 24.84km
8.50am to 2.10pm


A dry day today but a strong, cold wind.


I know that people doing the Yorkshire 3 Peaks are raising valuable funds for worthwhile charities, and as we too were also effectively on a sponcered walk I can't really complain, but we were glad to leave the large, noisy groups in matching pink Tshirts behind as we headed north.


Great views of Ingleborough and the Ribblehead viaduct.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200829_091249(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/eed49578-c100-4786-9804-2517558db839)


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200829_111245_(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/a39e1222-fec3-4ab0-8e52-ca6797d8b4bc)


As we headed towards Sell Gill Hole we saw a stoat playing along a dry-stone wall.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200829_102413(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/2578c677-ca7d-4bdc-9714-022f32b9c140)


With not a huge distance to walk today we pressed on rather than stopping for lunch.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200829_132727(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/6a2f9be4-af58-446d-af58-fec9d80639fb)

 We just managed to get to the fish and chip shop in Hawes before they closed. We bought some food and beer for the evening but were then at a bit of a loose end. When there were a few drops of rain we went up to the YHA and dozed in the entrance until it was time to check in.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200829_160315(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/98c76e7c-d08d-4787-9eeb-ce35a6f48f6c)


This was the only youth hostel which was open on the whole route. It was very strange to be there and socially distancing as they are normally such sociable places. I wonder if we missed out a little on the camaraderie on the walk.

Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 16:43:46, 15/09/20
We actually stayed there 33 years ago when our daughter was a baby and we walked with her in a backpack. We went back a few years later with our son as well. So we had to stay there when walking the Pennine Way! I don’t think it had changed much in those years, certainly needs updating, but it was at least clean which is the main thing.


I stayed there on my last PW trip, reviews were mixed so I was a bit concerned but found it clean and the staff friendly, would certainly use it again  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 16:53:31, 15/09/20

I stayed there on my last PW trip, reviews were mixed so I was a bit concerned but found it clean and the staff friendly, would certainly use it again  O0
The group we met in the lounge stay there regularly and talked about being in the good rooms (in the house) or not (in the converted barn). We were in the final room in the barn and it was clean-ish but felt a bit damp. The whole place just felt tired.
The older man, who we met in the evening, was very pleasant. The younger one at breakfast felt a bit stressed.
I would stay there again but it wouldn't be on my list of 'must stay' places.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 16:54:53, 15/09/20

We just managed to get to the fish and chip shop in Hawes before they closed.



Think I'd be gutted if I ever got to Hawes and found that shut, it's my 'go to' place for food  :)




This was the only youth hostel which was open on the whole route. It was very strange to be there and socially distancing as they are normally such sociable places. I wonder if we missed out a little on the camaraderie on the walk.


Last time I was there it was full of support for those doing the Spine event, and of course the Spiners themselves. Difficult to imagine it with folks social distancing  :-\
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 17:15:40, 15/09/20
Think I'd be gutted if I ever got to Hawes and found that shut, it's my 'go to' place for food  :)
They are good. It was only about to shut after the lunchtime opening and our plan had been to eat from there in the evening but as it was cold and windy we pushed on. Only takeaway due to covid, we found a bench up towards the YH and ate out of the paper in the fresh air. The only way to do it.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 18:08:26, 15/09/20
That wasn’t the day you met up with April and beefy was it?  ;D

No, some other strange forum people.

We were a few days later  ;D

More lovely pics Ridge, never been to the Ribbleshead area or the Y3P's, must go at some point  :)
15.44 miles....."With not a huge distance to walk today we pressed on rather than stopping for lunch"  :o

We would have had at least 2 lunches doing that distance  :)
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 18:26:46, 15/09/20
Thanks April
I think our view of distance got a bit skewed on the trip, normally that would be a full day but suddenly we were saying 'not far today only 15 miles'.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 19:25:59, 15/09/20
I think our view of distance got a bit skewed on the trip, normally that would be a full day but suddenly we were saying 'not far today only 15 miles'.


The PW does that to you  ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 20:15:11, 15/09/20
DAY 8 – 30th August 2020
Hawes to Tan Hill
19.29 miles 51.05km
8.55am to 4.20pm

Another dry day with high cloud and a gentle breeze.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200830_091002(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/68d22125-3a1b-4043-97c0-60ad96091b39)


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200830_100758(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/785d8cad-c542-4629-9452-8e8ff45ae48c)


Amazing views from Great Shunner Fell.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200830_112402(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/966d3e2b-d5c1-4734-aecd-b999db1704e1)


On the way down we met a Dad with 2 boys both of whom appeared to be sulking, one by striding out miles ahead while the other trailed way behind.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200830_114235(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/9e1e8a59-14c9-46be-8ee2-bf5081e03333)

We stopped in Thwaite for lemonade and ice-cream sat in the sunshine and then paused for our cake and apple lunch. Yes we had slipped in to an Enid Blyton story.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200830_132337(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/3273939d-99e3-4f5d-88e1-1e553e3b5ba6)


We met a couple who were having 3 days camping over the weekend and then were off on the Southern Upland Way in a few weeks. They were toiling up the hill with large rucksacks and I was so pleased not to be camping on this trip, we wished them well.
Topping up our water at Catrake Force, there were a number of families enjoying the sun, one group had a wonderful smelling barbeque on the go.


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200830_144352(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/e28deea2-4be4-435e-8e46-1eab898a05ae)




(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200830_150016(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/bdfb70de-9b82-485f-989b-89bf396ce7af)


It was a long way over the moors to Tan Hill.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200830_174249(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/71634e48-3463-4c96-af9e-006873fe1772)


It appeared everyone had decided to congregate at Tan Hill for the bank holiday. Cars and bikes clogged the road and there was a whole row of camper vans. They had an outside bar set up and were turning people away who wanted to eat there that evening.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Dovegirl on 21:13:17, 15/09/20
Enjoying the TRs.  The photos are great and really capture the flavour of the walk.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 21:37:44, 15/09/20
Thanks Dovegirl.


Writing then does feel a bit like it is more epic than the walk but I am enjoying doing them and it is helping me put all my memories in to order.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 07:29:31, 16/09/20
Fab photos, no. 5 + 7 are especially good  O0


We stopped in Thwaite for lemonade and ice-cream sat in the sunshine and then paused for our cake and apple lunch. Yes we had slipped in to an Enid Blyton story.


 :) Food does taste SO much better outdoors  :) 
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 07:35:58, 16/09/20
Really enjoying your daily reports, Ridge - keep them coming!

"I sent my wife a picture of us tucking in at the Dalesman in Gargrave and got a shocked response."
 ;D ;D

 


PS - that photo of Ingleborough is particularly stunning.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 07:45:03, 16/09/20
The exact wording of the text was 'What are you doing!!'
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 08:00:08, 16/09/20
DAY 9 – 31th August 2020
Tan Hill to Middleton in Teesdale
18 miles 28.96km
9.20 am to 4.30pm


Not as boggy as we feared over Sleightholme Moor, it was certaily wet for almost all the way but it was not as deep and difficult to negotiate as areas earlier in the walk or even over the other side of the A66. I posted on the forum in the evening how it was nothing like we had been led to believe. Later in the walk we saw Charlie again, who we had met near Horton in Ribblesdale, apparently he went in to a bog here up to his chest.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200831_094530(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/e0a46b1a-11e5-4b61-8e26-4acc30db9207)


God's Bridge,  an amazing natural structure.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200831_113400(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/364f5799-c870-4348-a4ca-275fcc31e9a6)


and an old lime kiln
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200831_113447(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/fb8d52bf-87bb-4e94-aaaa-b6eabd871880)


Then more moor
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200831_120628(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/520699ca-a680-4b6b-91cc-d708eb112583)


We took a photo at what we thought might possibly have been the halfway point of the walk.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200831_134327(4).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/0e9a0a1d-a7d4-4c1a-88fe-06e4aeab8a74)


Coming down of Cotherstone Moor we were asked 'Are you Mike?' as someone was looking for him. We met the person doing the looking at the car park before Blackton Reservoir, he appeared to be asking anyone going in either direction if they had 'seen Mike'. Mike was in a group of 4 walking from Tan Hill and his friend had set out to meet him but had obviously arrived way too early. He had been waiting for hours. We had seen Mike earlier in the day a couple of times but had last seen the group at Gods Bridge.


Just after Blackton Reservoir we met a woman on a very skittish young horse she told us we would be fine to walk behind him. I decided not to risk it, stayed well out of the way and let her fight with him as he went sideways down the lane.


We had refreshments from the tiny tuck shop at Wythes Hill.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200831_152611(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/ab3655f9-6b40-4c4a-9b8b-464611928b35)


I knew before I started the walk that this would almost definitely be the last outing for my beloved old boots but they are so comfortable I couldn't contemplate getting new ones close to the start. Perhaps I should have thought about this months earlier but, of coure, I didn't. Now they were beginning to suffer, part of the front bumper (I think that is the right word) on my right boot had come off completely and the rest was barely hanging on. Any other day apart from bank holiday Monday we would have been able to get some glue from the hardwear shop in MinT.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200831_160614(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/571f83d6-bbef-4f69-955a-4d73dfaa2bf3)


 (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200831_155601(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/2879e08e-a241-4f18-8b1d-67718686b42e)


We dined that night of slabs of wonderfully stodgy pizza in our very nice B&B. Mine was piled high with veg something I came to realise is severely lacking in much pub food.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 09:34:05, 16/09/20
The exact wording of the text was 'What are you doing!!'


I would have thought that would be obvious!  ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 09:51:52, 16/09/20

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/(edited)_Screenshot_20200916_093825_WhatsApp.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/3baf4625-617e-4c5e-90c5-5d9fd0a109a1)
Looks obvious to me, particularly when captioned 'Another tough day on the Pennine Way'

She's only once been sent a picture like this before when we've been away walking and that was 10th August 2011 (I've just checked). Our only day ever in the Lakes where we have not walked all day as the weather was horrible. I think she was worried that something had happened and we had given up on the PW.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: rural roamer on 12:41:02, 16/09/20
I know that people doing the Yorkshire 3 Peaks are raising valuable funds for worthwhile charities, and as we too were also effectively on a sponcered walk I can't really complain, but we were glad to leave the large, noisy groups in matching pink Tshirts behind as we headed north.
When working out our dates the first thing we did was make sure we weren't doing Pen-Y-Ghent or staying in Horton on a weekend. O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 18:28:19, 16/09/20
DAY 10  – 1st September  2020
Middleton in Teesdale to Dufton
20.77 miles 33.42km
8.25am to 4.50pm



A long, lovely day in warm weather but with a cooling breeze.

Our landlady could not be at the B&B for breakfast so it was beautifully cooked and served by the lady who introduced her self to us, and will for ever be known as, Claire's Mum.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200901_082904(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/51a1ba36-155c-44b3-9521-1862b8b0335d)


There had been, as I think I may have mentioned, a lot of rain. Now at least we were reaping the benefit as there was loads of water coming over the falls.

Low Force
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200901_095015(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/c7fb789f-30de-41ed-a6d3-cd4737e32191)

High Force
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200901_102218(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/78bed8e0-ca95-471e-ad91-778674aa0185)


A really nice day for walking
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200901_120845(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/a225550b-4f8d-4bf2-8237-d8999fd1fe90)


 (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200901_110507(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/7f896833-37e8-4ef4-8a1a-10d49066274b)

Clambering over all the rocks on our way towards Cow Green we met a slightly overweight cyclist coming the other way having to carry his bike. I can't now remember where he asked us if he was close to yet but he had much further to go than he estimated.

A little further someone greeted me with 'Hi, are you Ridge?' which for a moment completely threw me as no one actually calls me that in the real world. It was emdaw and Mr. emdaw who were walking Dufton to MinT and then back the next day in preparation for their own PW walk. They had been following our reports and it was lovely to meet them. I hope, when they get to do the PW next year, they enjoy it as much as we did.

Cauldron Snout was spectacular.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200901_132032(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/e4612ad7-0da4-48b1-b119-9022483e9126)


 (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200901_131739(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/6f92af31-49c4-463e-a142-283222ef6d31)

We then had the long track section, quite hard on the feet, to take us to the moors above High Cup Nick.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200901_144037(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/479d8e31-8ae2-4d11-968b-23b55da469bd)

It was a beautiful day and there were quite a few people sat about at the top of High Cup Nick.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200901_150946(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/98643856-5c66-46cb-af1d-57319c223b10)

This is probably where my plan to walk the PW started to take root many, many years ago. I must have been quite young and we were on holiday as a family staying in Church Brough just north of Kirkby Stephen. We had walked up to High Cup Nick from Dufton and I remember seeing some bedraggled figures weighed down by enormous rucksacks coming out of the mist across the moor. My Dad explained that they were PW walkers and that it was the same PW which was not far from our home in Sheffield. I was just amazed that it was possible to walk all that way.
My memory is awful, the fact that I can recall this incident so clearly, it must have made a huge impression.

The intervening years had wiped from my mind the long track in to Dufton once you have dropped down. We stood aside to let a group of local residents go the other way.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200901_163720(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/a9899fe0-f897-4f9a-b974-da3676ad9c64)

At our B&B there was a note on the door telling us that they were out and how to get in. Very trusting of them, anyone else reading it would have had complete access to their home.

It had been a long day today and the 2 track sections had really taken their toll. It was tough walking down to the Stag Inn that evening but we struggled on bravely.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 19:04:48, 16/09/20
Great stuff Ridge, some lovely pics again too  O0


I've never been to Cauldron Snout despite having done High Force and Low Force a number of times, I must go  :)


The path down to Dufton does go on forever, we climbed it when we did High Cup Nick.


I would like to see footage of you both going back to your B&B after you had been in the pub.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 19:17:13, 16/09/20
I think that is one of the best days on the PW, and again some great photos.


Ridge, when you have a moment it might help us all if you could list the places you stayed?
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 19:38:46, 16/09/20

I think that is one of the best days on the PW, and again some great photos.


Ridge, when you have a moment it might help us all if you could list the places you stayed?
Agreed about it being a great day.


I thought about giving the accommodation a star rating but it is so hard as some was much more expensive than others and also location plays such a huge part in how good they are. What I would say is that I will never, ever return to the Angel in Alston.
If anyone has specific questions about any of the accommodation I'm happy to talk about them.

23/8 Crowden - My Dads
24/8 Diggle - Sunfield Stables
25/8 Heptonstall - Cross Keys
26/8 Cowling - Winterhouse Barn
27/8 Malham - Miresfield Farm
28/8 Horton in Ribblesdale - Golden Lion
29/8 Hawes - YHA
30/8 Tan Hill - Tan Hill
31/8 Middleton in Teesdale - Belvedere House
1/9 Dufton - Brow Farm
2/9 Alston - The Angel
3/9 Greenhead - Greenhead Hotel
4/9 Bellingham - The Barn
5/9 Byrness - Forest View
6/9 Byrness - Forest View
7/9 Kirk Yetholm - The Plough
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 19:40:52, 16/09/20
Great stuff Ridge, some lovely pics again too  O0

I've never been to Cauldron Snout despite having done High Force and Low Force a number of times, I must go  :)
Thanks April. It is slightly melting my brain that I am commenting on one days walk while trying to write the next instalment and then organising the photos for the remaining days.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 21:34:08, 16/09/20
DAY 11  – 2nd September  2020
Dufton to Alston
20.39 miles 32.81km
7.45am to 4.05pm

What a day this was, probably the hardest walking and wildest weather of the entire route. It actually felt like 4 walks rolled in to one. Dufton to Knock Fell (pleasant), Knock Fell to Gregs Hut (wild), Gregs Hut to Garrigill (hard on the feet), Garrigill to Alston (pleasant again).

We set off enjoying a pleasant walk through the fields of Dufton and then up to Knock Fell.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200902_085922(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/9586ade4-e151-4702-96c2-a343dab0a25a)

By the time we were here it was obvious that the weather was taking a turn for the significantly worse and we waterproofed up and battened down the hatches.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200902_100520(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/b4acda09-7e1a-4057-97e6-c7cc91083a5a)


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200902_101843(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/0bc43b69-2940-4bfa-9498-822fe2e42918)

Over Great Dunn Fell I knew that we were on the right route and I knew that there was an enormous radar station at the top. What I hadn't
appreciated was just how bad the visibility had become. Until we were actually at the fence we could see nothing of the radar station at all and even then it was only part of it through the murk.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200902_102728(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/f0979284-9a9c-455e-81db-0b6079b32a26)

Heading up Cross Fell we started to follow recent footprints in the gloop and then passed 2 women. We continued to meet them occasionally for the rest of the PW and they were 2 of the very few other PWers we met. 1 of them was the only person who we learnt both their christian and surnames. Since returning home I have discovered that she and I have a mutual friend. It is a very, very small world.

On Cross Fell the wind was getting stronger and the visibility no better. We were having to walk at an angle in order to keep going straight ahead.


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200902_112159(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/b40929f3-82ac-497e-ad1b-e35a52aff8e3)


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200902_111929(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/d0b3e4fd-d7d6-481e-923b-c931ebe1f73b)

Eventually we descended out of the cloud and had our lunch in Gregs Hut, it was a very welcome refuge from the weather.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200902_115507(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/62881f0e-e892-4d28-bb18-a7eb34312c58)


Now came the hardest part of the day. Long miles down the hard track from Gregs Hut to Garrigill in the very strong wind. Rob got more and more angry at the pounding his feet were taking on the hard surface and the pounding the rest of him was taking in the elements.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200902_135107(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/d4a6ae75-7a94-4a03-a758-63b620cfc0b0)


As we arrived in Garrigill an elderly gentleman stopped his car, blocking the street, to chat to us about what the weather was like on the tops. The post office did not have the widest range of goods available but we sat on a bench on the green to drink lemonade and stuff ourselves with chocolate. A UPS van drew up beside us and the driver got out and then returned with a tea tray, I wish I had know that the Post Office did this.

The next section of the walk was a gentle, though at times rainy, walk by the river in to Alston.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200902_150025(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/db8454bb-dc03-4702-86e1-f2b028fe73bb)

That night we dined on fish and chips. When Mike Hartley set the original FKT for the Pennine Way he famously stopped for fish and chips here too.

We returned to the pub we were staying in and when some of the patrons, who were friends of the staff, started throwing food about we retired to our room.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 21:38:07, 16/09/20
Great photos of the Teesdale waterfalls and of High Cup Nick - what a day that was.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 22:06:28, 16/09/20
It is slightly melting my brain that I am commenting on one days walk while trying to write the next instalment and then organising the photos for the remaining days.


 :)


That pub sounds like a nightmare.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 22:33:04, 16/09/20
That pub sounds like a nightmare.
There was a sign outside looking for a new tenant. Hopefully it will get someone in who can spruce it up and sort it out.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 07:38:45, 17/09/20
DAY 12  – 3rd September 2020
Alston to Greenhead
17.9 miles 28.8km
8.45am to 4.25pm


As we stepped through the door of the pub in Alston it immediately started pouring with rain which continued for most of the morning. We stood in the deluge to put on our waterproofs.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200903_085456(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/87a89968-dde7-4f91-b97c-b62bacb2dfc2)


The early part of the walk winds between river and railway.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200903_104526(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/00918fb6-2d0c-4d7f-b36f-c11b99a61d57)


 (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200903_104337(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/a5062fe7-b76e-46ad-9897-70ab77b04795)

Over bridges and under viaducts
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200903_115750(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/f916bc9e-aa36-4d27-b868-e59680a0d182)


 (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200903_112625(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/bb3c8759-e0c5-4861-a5d6-948f9b34ff90)

We walked through Slaggyford, hoping for a shop to buy something to lift our waning spirits. We hoped in vain.
Now we were on fields and moor.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200903_125535(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/c451d3f9-172c-4d7b-94ba-aeda7ba36882)


Crossing the moor the path deserted us completely. The rain had stopped but everywhere was absolutely sodden with the earth a shifting mass of water, plants and mud. We headed for the fence at the other side and clung to it doggedly. When we met other PWers on route we would often talk about favourite and least favourite days. When ever this section was discussed everyone always said 'I just headed for the fence'.


We were not enjoying our selves. We had stopped taking photos. We got grumpy with each other and plodded on. We had to cross a golf course, my absolute least favourite terrain, then plodded down the road in to Greenhead. This was supposed to be a short and easy day for us and it certainly didn't feel like it.
We had never walked this number of successive days before and I began to wonder if we had reached our limit of enjoyment with walking. Perhaps a weeks walking was OK for us but longer was too much.


The Greenhead Hostel, where we should have been staying, was closed so we were now in the Greenhead Hotel which was in the process of being refurbished and is very swanky. We trailed mud across the brand new carpets. The swish accommodation  at least lifted our spirits, as did meeting April, Beefy and Squeaky who came to join us for a drink. We maintained social distancing as much as possible but couldn't resist rubbing one of them behind the ears. It was great, particularly after such a day, to have nice people to talk to.
They had kindly brought some glue for me to try and repair my boots with. I snatched it from them and didn't offer to pay. When I realised later that I had not paid Rob did point out that they were so nice they probably would have refused the money anyway. This was true, which only made me feel even worse! Thank you again.


We had four more days to go, I hoped our spirits would not be so low for the rest of the trip.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 08:20:29, 17/09/20
Love the shot of the sheep travelling under the bridge  O0


The commons leading down to Greenhead are bleak and boggy, not helped by the sight of pylons either.


It was great to see you both, the highlight of our week it was. Squeaky liked you both straight away, she is normally a bit stand-offish with strangers and it is rare for her to go up to someone she doesn't know. The glue was always going to be free, besides you bought us a drink it was probably double what the glue cost! It was nice to hear Geordie voices, I wonder if the staff I heard speaking are from Haltwhistle. Although quite a distance from Newcastle they still sound Geordie-ish  :) 

PS Beefy says thanks for the rub behind his ear  :D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 08:48:14, 17/09/20
Love the shot of the sheep travelling under the bridge  O0
Thanks April, I had to wait quite a while for 2 sheep to face the same direction at once even though they were all supposedly heading that way.
It was great to meet the 3 of you and, as it turned out, it was on the day when we needed it most.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: harland on 09:01:30, 17/09/20
Squeaky liked you both straight away, she is normally a bit stand-offish with strangers and it is rare for her to go up to someone she doesn't know.
It was probably the smell that she liked! ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 10:34:13, 17/09/20
Crossing the moor the path deserted us completely. The rain had stopped but everywhere was absolutely sodden with the earth a shifting mass of water, plants and mud. We headed for the fence at the other side and clung to it doggedly. When we met other PWers on route we would often talk about favourite and least favourite days. When ever this section was discussed everyone always said 'I just headed for the fence'.


I too have never been able to stay on a 'path' here, it's just a question of heading on a bearing or for the fence  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 14:03:22, 17/09/20
Walking on any sort of straight line was impossible with the waterlogged ground conditions.
On another day with us in a different mood it would just have been part of the fun but not on that day.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 17:26:53, 17/09/20
Aargh!!! I had written out all the rest of the reports and when I've just gone to the document it is completely blank. I, and more importantly my daughter, can't work out what has happened and where it has gone. Everything else appears to be OK.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 18:30:53, 17/09/20
Oh no, hope you find it  :(
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 19:11:36, 17/09/20
I'll do them again if not but I may not finish before I go away this weekend which was my plan.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: beefy on 20:06:37, 17/09/20

Quote
PS Beefy says thanks for the rub behind his ear  :D
 
 ;D
It was probably the smell that she liked! ;D
;D ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 21:05:54, 17/09/20
Aargh!!! I had written out all the rest of the reports and when I've just gone to the document it is completely blank. I, and more importantly my daughter, can't work out what has happened and where it has gone. Everything else appears to be OK.


 :(


I'll do them again if not but I may not finish before I go away this weekend which was my plan.


It was a bit of a wait for you doing the PW so we can wait a few days for the next instalment  ;)
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 21:22:15, 17/09/20
Day 13 - 4th September
Greenhead to Bellingham
23.27 miles 37.45km
8.15am to 5.45pm

A long but lovely day, our walking mojo had absolutely returned. Even the rain first and last thing could not dampen our spirits.
Thirlwell Castle first.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200904_082913(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/df79429f-fc31-4af2-9956-9e1b9b544720)

And the the roller-coaster of Hadrian's Wall
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200904_104135(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/9449cbb3-4901-4672-8936-dc017d681a76)


 (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200904_085615(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/e704fd24-6a63-40e1-a695-7b500958a78f)


It was quite busy at Sycamore Gap and I thought we were going to have 'sycamore slugs' but I managed to get this shot as a couple left and before the next group arrived.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200904_113256(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/d0dce23c-7725-4139-930e-10bf11da9f33)

Heading away from the wall it was very wet under foot.
Yesterday April said that she was surprised how little 'Yorkshire' there was in my accent, I've not actually lived there for 35 years. She should have heard me today summoning my heritage to get a group of large bullocks out of our way. It was only as they moved off that we realised that at the back was a very large black bull. He looked at us, thought about it and then, when he was good and ready, moved on.

In the woods the ground was very wet and at times we were holding on to the trees to negotiate our war round it.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200904_131434(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/32d8e4e7-0074-4992-9956-746a1dbb0dc5)




(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200904_131427(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/ba2b6633-8aa2-48f5-9da5-219350a7f8fd)

We met 2 women coming the other way and subsequently talked to them in the pub that evening. One of them was section walking in circular walks John o'Grouts to Lands End. So far it had taken her 2 ½ years.

We paused for refreshments at the Pit Stop, which is a stable with a fridge, some snacks, a beaten up sofa, some abandoned kit and an honesty box. In the field outside were some very pretty sheep (I'd been on the trail a long time now) which I guess were used for showing. The were so tame they wouldn't get out of our way.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200904_152117(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/5a4adbee-bbfc-45aa-ac43-14ddda2249a2)


Bellingham
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200904_171627(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/b4100d03-c20f-4525-844b-cdaf8bf2f4cc)

When we arrived at our very nice accommodation they were worried that we hadn't booked anywhere to eat that evening. There were a few possibilities so I'd not bothered. They made a reservation for us and we just had time for a quick shower before staggering the very long 1km to the pub.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 21:40:47, 17/09/20
Nice shot of Thirlwall Castle and Sycamore Gap  :)


We didn't have to wait that long for the next instalment after all.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 21:53:31, 17/09/20
We are taking Ridgedaughter away to University this weekend and I was planning to get them all done before then which may not happen but if not it will be Monday.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 21:55:10, 17/09/20
Good luck Ridgedaughter  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 14:58:49, 18/09/20
Good luck Ridgedaughter  O0
Thanks. I'm sure she will be fine, not sure how Mrs R and I will cope though.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 15:07:26, 18/09/20
Day 14 - 5th September
Bellingham to Byrness
16.79 miles 27.01km
8.45am to 3.10pm

Another day when it started to rain as soon as we left our accommodation and we put on our waterproofs on the street outside. It didn't really come to anything and turned in to a nice day.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200905_085343(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/80b28cec-a73d-4756-bb2d-81c2c73bfae9)


As so often happens the trickiest navigation of the day was working out where the route went through the town.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200905_085832(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/59a59cc9-7d08-4ee5-9e1c-cbc48174282f)


Heading up through some fields there was a walker ahead of us who we immediately identified as another PWer by the state of his trousers. Paul became a friend and sometimes companion for the rest of the trip.

Over the moors
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200905_110456(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/000c6bdc-cea7-477e-bda2-d4e337286198)


 (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200905_094938(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/da7ee041-8163-4ab7-b84c-8e2e91509a14)

and then on to the forests where there was a lot of hard stony tracks to follow.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200905_121408(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/1cf262a1-e1c2-4e5d-a2a9-b56cf498ec1e)


We met a guy with a very large rucksack who was the only north to south PWer that we talked to. He was nowhere near the halfway point of the day where we should have passed and appeared to be struggling. He had walked the Kirk Yetholm to Byrness section as one the previous day and was so late that Colin, at the accommodation in Byrness told us later that they were thinking about calling out Mountain Rescue. Then, when he did get there, they considered getting him some medical attention. Colin had confiscated some of his kit but he still looked very over burdened. I hope he made it to Edale. The walker was full of praise for how Colin and Joyce had looked after him.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200905_134326(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/7aea96e2-07e9-4719-ac65-d54c99211e12)

We arrived in Byrness quite early.


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200905_145752(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/57a2d5cc-1e11-47b4-aa77-00f7cb911926)

We sat outside Forest View waiting for check in. When we felt a few drops of rain they let us in early to keep dry.

That evening there were 5 of us staying, ourselves, Paul and the 2 women we had been meeting on and off since Cross Fell. Paul, Rob and I were doing the stretch from Byrness to Kirk Yetholm over 2 days so Joyce would pick us up from the half way point at Trows Farm tomorrow evening. The 2 women were planning to do it all in one go and were obviously a little worried about this. They were using a courier service to move their bags and had their accommodation and travel all booked so I tried to be encouraging as I didn't see that they had many choices.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 15:40:19, 18/09/20
Again some great photos and love the comment about the trickiest part is finding your way out of the town, especially as I don't recognise the place in your photo  ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 15:55:45, 18/09/20
 ;D
That is Cuddy's (or St. Cuthbert's) Well. When you cross the bridge in to Bellingham you turn immediately right to walk by the river and then head up the steps beside the well to the main street.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 17:23:55, 18/09/20
;D  That is Cuddy's (or St. Cuthbert's) Well. When you cross the bridge in to Bellingham you turn immediately right to walk by the river and then head up the steps beside the well to the main street.

Ah so it's on the way in, just checked my route and as I was staying at Lyndale Guest House I walked past there and into Bellingham on Brookside Place  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: jimbob on 17:31:52, 18/09/20
St Cuthbert is the patron Saint of Northumbria, his remains are still in Durham Cathedral. There are two creatures named after him locally. The cuddy duck (Eider) was the first to be made a protected species as far as can be ascertained, 670ish AD. The other is the donkey, also known locally as a cuddy. People used to be described as being as " ackwad as a cuddy", (awkward as a donkey), seemingly owld Cuddy was a bit temperamently challenged.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 17:40:05, 18/09/20
Ah so it's on the way in, just checked my route and as I was staying at Lyndale Guest House I walked past there and into Bellingham on Brookside Place  O0
That's OK then, you don't have to go up to Kirk Yetholm and pay for your beer.  ;)
We were staying in The Barn (absolutely lovely by the way, I can not recommend highly enough) which is next to the cemetery before the bridge. So we walked all the way through the town on the way out.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 17:42:28, 18/09/20
Nearly there!
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 17:51:54, 18/09/20
Day 15 - 6th September
Byrness to Trows Farm
15.93 miles 25.64km
9.06am to 4.10pm

Paul and the 2 women were going to have a continental breakfast left out for them as they both wanted to be off early. When we went down Pauls had eaten his but the 2 women had not yet emerged. We discovered from Joyce that they had decided not to do the first half of the section and wanted her to run them to Trows Farm. She was, understandably, slightly miffed about this as the cost of the transport is covered if you stay for 2 nights and there was no one else going to Trows Farm this morning. She took them, of course.

Again rain just as we were leaving but at least this time we put on our waterproofs inside.
As we headed up the steep hill out of Byrness the rain had stopped and now there was a storm raging inside our waterproofs. We packed them away and there they stayed.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200906_094409(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/42700dc7-7af3-4ad6-b8ca-54a04febcb1b)

It was great walking along on the top of the world.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200906_112859(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/b3e7f820-46ae-4d18-bd23-cc5dd3db40b7)

 (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200906_102949(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/a4e7d4e0-b9af-4cfa-bb6f-2495661cc3d5)

We had lunch sitting outside the refuge hut in the sun
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200906_124506(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/b21ec1df-d36e-41fb-9ef9-45ad7e43eb09)

We caught up with Paul and discussed how lovely it all was.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200906_134118(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/223c3053-dded-4517-9880-b30558458da5)


There were wild goats
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200906_141302(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/2cc875be-af90-4c0b-9532-a76bbc2432d8)


At Windy Gyle we sat in the sun. It had been one of the outstanding days of the walk.
Paul joined us and we walked to Trows Farm together following the printed instructions from Forest View. These had about 2 lines of succinct directions and then a paragraph of how hideous the house was where we would be picked up.

On the drive back to Byrness Joyce pointed out the sights to us and also a Merlin, a Buzzard and an Osprey.
Tonight at Forest View, as well as Paul, Rob and I, there were 2 men from Manchester who had section walked the route and a man called Brian who had left Edale the day after us and been one day behind the whole way up.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 17:53:26, 18/09/20
That's OK then, you don't have to go up to Kirk Yetholm and pay for your beer.  ;)
We were staying in The Barn (absolutely lovely by the way, I can not recommend highly enough) which is next to the cemetery before the bridge. So we walked all the way through the town on the way out.


Adding the Barn to my list for 2022  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 18:05:30, 18/09/20

Adding the Barn to my list for 2022  O0
It is about 1km from them to The Cheviot Hotel to eat in the evening which is the only slight down side but the people were lovely and the place spotless. And you have seating and breakfast in your own orangery.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 18:25:01, 18/09/20
I really fancy that border ridge walk, maybe with a wild camp thrown in.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 18:30:18, 18/09/20
It was wonderful up there Richard, and if you fancy a legal wild camp you can just hop over the fence in to Scotland.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Islandplodder on 19:44:34, 18/09/20
If you walk up to the ridge from the Scottish side there is a great big notice on the gate explaining the different rules on access, wild camping etc. Just to discourage you from leaving Scotland.
Really enjoying your TR Ridge, it's making me think of doing the Pennine Way again, maybe a N to S
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 19:50:56, 18/09/20
Day 16 - 7th September
Trows Farm to Kirk Yetholm
17.46 miles 28.1km
9.37am to 4.45pm

One of the advantages of spending 2 days going over the Cheviots is that you can get a chance to experience them in all their moods. And were they in a mood today.

Shortly after being dropped at Trows Farm we were putting our waterproofs on
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_095014(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/fb7f8114-36b6-4586-ac98-9483c2e636fa)


as Paul disappeared in to the mist.


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_095938(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/390b43e0-00a0-4803-9fef-6322d95ade32)

Windy Gyle was very different today. We stopped to talk to a soldier who was sat outside his tent. We later heard, but didn't see, soldiers being shouted at in the mist.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_102924(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/7c8e604e-0db2-4482-af83-29861f75df08)

Scotland on the left, England on the right.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_104121(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/738248cf-51cd-425d-99a4-3986576c6ed9)

The Cheviot is entirely optional on the PW. We had been told it wasn't worth doing as the views were not great from its rounded top and today there was no visibility and high winds.


As we sensed, rather than saw, that we were on the top we checked the map to make sure that there was a trig point which would tell us we had arrived. 10m further on we stumbled in to the trig on its enormous concrete base. We hadn't been able to see it at all.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_123148(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/590ffd9b-c92f-4fbc-8c84-2a282a4775d4)

Returning to the main route we passed Paul who had decided to give The Cheviot a miss and dropped down out of the clouds.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_132846(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/71b8680c-1588-47de-9c74-600c65b22ad3)

We had our lunch taking refuge from the wind in the refuge hut. Brian, who we met at Forest View, was planning to sleep here tonight.
Paul arrived as we were finishing lunch and then Rob and I headed out being passed quite soon by a fell runner.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_133435(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/31db7137-e7c4-4a44-b55e-450c0882fad2)

Next the supposedly last big climb of the walk, The Schil.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_142509(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/0745cb2d-2261-404b-b881-644785df529a)


(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_144716(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/e277ddab-0dce-4363-93f1-26758e0f0394)

High route or low route, decisions, decisions.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_151411(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/df6db156-97e1-4121-827d-619ab9288c12)

High of course, why wouldn't we want to be on the tops longer?
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_152631(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/52b7d311-6a20-44b2-a2f8-272181c07cee)

It was still very, very windy and as we walked along Steer Rig you had to continually force yourself away from the barbed wire fence next to the path.
The climb up White Law is harder than I expected, it is not long but properly steep. Then we joined the low route to walk along the road to Kirk Yetholm. I knew the road went up hill but it was still a shock.

At the Border Hotel we touched the wall, drank the beer and signed the book.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200908_143713(1).jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/ae8d2739-8646-4efc-9df5-a18b2299d822)

I noticed that the day before one of the women from Forest View who had skipped Byrness to Windy Gyle had also signed in. You may recall, from day 11, that she is a friend of a friend of mine.
There were no twin rooms at the Border Hotel so we walked the extra 1km to our very nice room at The Plough in Town Yetholm. Not wanting to miss out though we had booked to eat at the Border Hotel that evening so it was back on with the boots and the return km.

We spent a lovely evening with Paul and Charlie who we had not seen for ages and who had not met each other at all. James, the bar man, entertained us with stories of why it is so stupid to go walking. There were also 2 other PW completers in the bar, the fell runner we had seen earlier in the day and a woman who arrived with a large rucksack. They had both completed in 10 days.
We again made the 1km walk to our digs. Some evenings this would have been a killer but tonight I was walking on air. I could have set off for Edale right then.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: sussamb on 20:14:00, 18/09/20
Fantastic, well done both.  I too slept in that hut on my last Pennine Way, giving me an easy finish on my final day.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: harland on 20:21:08, 18/09/20
Thanks for the reports and the photos, it brings back good memories of both the journey, the fellow walkers that I met along the way and the time spent in the evenings chatting when not drinking/eating. Whilst we walk for pleasure it is good to test ourselves now and again.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: jimbob on 20:24:51, 18/09/20
Thanks Ridge & son, that is something you'll both treasure. Thanks for the TR.
Hope you raised enough for the targeted charity.
(or did you let us know and I missed it)
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Bigfoot_Mike on 20:28:19, 18/09/20
If you walk up to the ridge from the Scottish side there is a great big notice on the gate explaining the different rules on access, wild camping etc. Just to discourage you from leaving Scotland.

Is he still there?  :D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 20:30:57, 18/09/20

The journey home
The next day we were waiting at the bus stop in Town Yetholm when a couple came out of a house opposite and asked us if we wanted a lift to Keld which was hugely generous of them. The night before we had convinced Paul and Charlie that they would be OK getting on the same bus as us to make the connections to the train we were all getting from Barrow. I think they were a bit surprised when we didn't get on it at our stop but we met up in Keld and travelled on to Barrow together before saying our goodbyes as we were all booked seats in different parts of the train.

Conclusion
I was going to try to come up with a list of things we had learned which may be useful for others but pretty much everything went to plan.

I put a list of all the accommodation we used earlier in the thread and if anyone has any questions about that or anything else then you can either post or PM me.
Speaking of accommodation Forest View in Byrness is on the market. It will need someone special to take it on but, for the right person, there is a really good business here. As PW walkers we also have a vested interest in finding a new owner as it would make the last sections of the PW a very different proposition if Forest View closed.

Most of the route is well signed but it is not consistent so you do have to keep an eye on it.
We navigated using the two AtoZ guides which have all the OS maps of the route though, annoyingly, the two books work in different directions so whether you are going north - south or south - north you have to start turning the pages in the opposite direction half way. We also took my ancient gps and used it twice to give us an accurate location. My son was recording the trip on Strava so, if he had connection, we could look at this to see if we were on the PW path, though it showed little else it was good for confirmation that we were still on route. We had with us the Trailblazer guide which we would read in the evening as we went through the route for the next day but didn't use on the trail.

It was interesting to see how all the different places we stayed and ate and drank dealt with the covid situation. I do wonder if we missed out on meeting more people because of this.

We had an absolutely wonderful time, it was great. I can not recommend it enough to anyone.

While originally, 4 years ago, we were just walking the Pennine Way because we wanted to we, or to be more accurate our friends and family, have raised £2328 for the Teenage Cancer Trust.

(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn129/Birkhouse/20200907_190128(2).jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/Birkhouse/a/303d4064-7669-4285-9e12-d68280542430/p/7bd9d5bd-3d34-401e-9318-48ec922e28c6)
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Little Foot on 11:19:38, 19/09/20
Really enjoyed reading your report this morning. Thanks for taking the time to write it up and post the great photos.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Dodgylegs on 13:54:38, 19/09/20
Enjoyed that ridge .... Finally got around to reading about your trip.
How's the boots?
 
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Warbler on 14:47:26, 19/09/20
Well done both of you - on the walk and the fundraising.


And thanks for sharing the journey with us  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 15:36:34, 19/09/20
How's the boots?
Replacements will have to be purchased but they held together for me to the end and have been out for a couple of gentle strolls since.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 17:45:27, 19/09/20
Excellent stuff, an experience that you and your son will remember for the rest of your lives.  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Brandywell on 18:26:50, 19/09/20
Excellent trip report Ridge O0 .  An extraordinary achievement during these difficult times, well done. :)
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: emdaw on 18:27:53, 19/09/20
Excellent report enjoyed reading it, some useful tips as well for our PW. Well done both of you, nice to see you reached the target, a worthy cause. It was also nice to meet you en route and have a brief chat. What a great forum this is  O0 :) O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 18:41:27, 19/09/20
Thanks all.
I enjoyed writing the report, it helped me get my memories in order.
Richard, I will definitely always remember it.
Emdaw, it was lovely to meet you too. I hope you get to do it next year.

Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: rural roamer on 15:35:34, 20/09/20
Just read the last of your great reports Ridge. Something you will always remember. We made up a photo book with a few photos from each day along with comments I had posted on my facebook blog.

The photo at the Border Hotel, is that now a thing to leave your boots behind? There’s a good few there and I’ve noticed that in other peoples photos. I’m sure there weren't any there 4 years ago when we did the PW.

We stayed at several of your accommodations. As well as Miresfield Farm, we stayed at Sunfield Diggle, Brow Farm Dufton, Greenhead Hotel and of course, Forest View. We also had a note on the door at Brow Farm to let ourselves in and it was a couple of hours before anyone turned up.

Amazing how we all think the Schil is the last big hill!  ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 17:55:33, 20/09/20
Just caught up with your last few days  :)


Fantastic shots on the border ridge, it really is a special place and I am pleased you got to see some of it at its best  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 19:12:04, 20/09/20
Just read the last of your great reports Ridge. Something you will always remember. We made up a photo book with a few photos from each day along with comments I had posted on my facebook blog.
Thanks RR. Plans are already afoot for a book.

Quote
The photo at the Border Hotel, is that now a thing to leave your boots behind? There’s a good few there and I’ve noticed that in other peoples photos. I’m sure there weren't any there 4 years ago when we did the PW.
It appears to be a thing though what do you then wear on your feet to get home? The barman said that they regularly throw away the nastiest pairs when they begin to decompose.


Just caught up with your last few days  :)


Fantastic shots on the border ridge, it really is a special place and I am pleased you got to see some of it at its best  O0
I don't mind a bit of dramatic weather, we saw it at both its bests.


I've just been sending a message on my phone, I typed 'meeting' and my predictive text offered 'Squeaky' for the next word.  ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: karl h on 19:33:00, 20/09/20
What a fantastic record of your trip...I'm exhausted just reading it well done to you both O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 22:16:46, 20/09/20
Thanks Karl. Loved walking it.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: April on 18:54:38, 22/09/20
I've just been sending a message on my phone, I typed 'meeting' and my predictive text offered 'Squeaky' for the next word.  ;D

 ;D
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: strawy on 11:14:51, 24/09/20
Enjoyed reading that TR,well done  O0
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 15:35:56, 24/09/20
Enjoyed reading that TR,well done  O0
Thanks strawy, it was amazing.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Mel on 14:05:39, 27/09/20
Finally I get to finish reading this after my router conked out on Monday mid-read  :(


Really enjoyed reading your report. 


Your Biblical Moment as you crossed the bridge over the M62 on day 3 made me smile - the weather eased off as you crossed then closed in again once you were over.


Folks from Hull are all a bit dodgy.  Luckily, I live just outside the boundary...completely different Local Authority area you see  :D


I had to chuckle at day 8's "Enid Blyton" comment.  Did you have lashings of ginger beer too?  ;D


And all those wonderful waterfalls on day 10  :smitten:


Yes, really enjoyed reading that and what a fantastic amount raised  O0   Well done to you both.


Glad I didn't donate based on beard growth though.  Disappointing effort - I was expecting a Grizzly Adams look by the end  :P

Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 16:49:54, 27/09/20
Thanks Mel, I'm pleased you enjoyed it.
No ginger beer, just the other sort.
The waterfalls are definitely worth going to see.

The beard has gone, Mrs R very clear on exactly how close to her I was likely to get before I shaved.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Viclikestowalk on 17:02:52, 27/09/20
Great TR and making my feet exceptionally itchy.


Glad you had a great time and look forward to reading further reports.


After reading your post about whether a week was a long enough walk for you, would you consider doing such a long walk again?
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 17:18:17, 27/09/20
Thanks Vic.


I would definitely do a walk that long again given half a chance. I'm not sure what was wrong that day, I guess it was a combination of factors, it just felt like an uninspiring slog. From then on we were back to loving it again.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Viclikestowalk on 17:25:06, 27/09/20
Thanks Vic.


I would definitely do a walk that long again given half a chance. I'm not sure what was wrong that day, I guess it was a combination of factors, it just felt like an uninspiring slog. From then on we were back to loving it again.


The longest walk I have done is 19 days, I can remember on about day 10 sitting behind a rock eating a mars bar sulking, thinking I’d never walk again, got to a cafe had a cup of tea and was fine from then on.


I thinks part of any long walk that you’ll have a bad day.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 07:33:03, 28/09/20
I thinks part of any long walk that you’ll have a bad day.

Our bad day on our self devised walk from Swansea to Conwy three decades ago was from Dolgellau to Maentwrog - the tent was heavy after a night of rain, packs weighed a ton, and towards the end of the day we ended walking down the side of the busy A470 near Trawsfynydd, were turned away from a snobby caravan site, and another camp site turned out to be defunct, an excrement plastered field.

We were close to home though, so staggered an extra few miles down a quiet lane to a favourite pub of ours, The Grapes in Maentwrog, had a few beers and an excellent meal, and took a taxi home to Dolyyddelan, only 10 miles away. Returned the next day by bus and walked home with feather light day packs, then had a triumphal last day galloping over the eastern flanks of the Carneddau to Conwy, light packs again, felt like we were walking on air!


PS - we were using Petzl headtorches way back then  :)
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: gunwharfman on 09:03:39, 28/09/20
I've had many 'bad' days, usually because of being wet for long periods of time, because of an aching body, because of physical exhaustion and on odd days it's simply because that nothing will go right for me! I've had my few days of loneliness as well and days when I lose all enthusiasm and just 'can't be bothered.' It's just a period of time to get through, with me its always been a day so I usually just spend more time in one place, tend to lounge about, I watch the world go by and try to sleep much more than usual. By the next morning I just tend to bounce back.
Title: Re: TR - Pennine Way
Post by: Ridge on 16:20:27, 28/09/20
Interesting that it is not just us.
GWM I remember you saying before that you've had an occasional off day and just pitched your tent and snoozed. I think if we had been camping we could well have had an early stop.