Walking Forum
Main Boards => Gear => Topic started by: Rob Goes Walking on 19:26:53, 10/11/18
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In another thread we established that applying wax with a cloth is probably not good enough. I didn't want to hijack his thread so I made a new one. This is probably a stupid question but with all the brushes in the world I'm not sure what brush to apply the wax with. Would this (https://www.survivalaids.com/altberg-buffing-brush) be a suitable brush?
Also, does anyone have a video showing the technique? I can only find videos showing just a cloth.
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I find the brushes used to apply the wax and brush it down in to the leather get clogged with wax and shed the bristles pretty quickly and don't last that long so I tend to make do with a cheap and cheerful twin pack of small brushes from either eBay, amazon or the local supermarket (around £3) and replace them when needed.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shoe-Brush-Polish-Set-Shine-Boot-Non-Scratch-Like-Horse-Hair-Leather-New/273550609721 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shoe-Brush-Polish-Set-Shine-Boot-Non-Scratch-Like-Horse-Hair-Leather-New/273550609721)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Feet-Treat-Double-Shoe-Brush-Set/232739313851 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Feet-Treat-Double-Shoe-Brush-Set/232739313851)
For the finishing shine I use a fairly decent horse hair brush from either eBay or amazon (around £6 - £7) and these tend to last far longer.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-PURE-HORSEHAIR-BRUSH-SHOE-BOOT-POLISH-SMALL-MEDIUM-LARGE-SIZE-FREE-P-P/281757226544 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-PURE-HORSEHAIR-BRUSH-SHOE-BOOT-POLISH-SMALL-MEDIUM-LARGE-SIZE-FREE-P-P/281757226544)
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Thanks kinkyboots.
Why do I want one small and one large as a twin pack?
I'm still at a loss as to technique, should I do it as if I was applying boot polish much like this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50cfBvkMy9c) video?
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My finger, cheap and quick.
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My putting on cloth is piece of a Corr's Beer t-shirt - more use than the beer.
I have 2 brushes, a square ended one, Macson 510 pure bristle, for applying and first buff; a rounded longer one for polishing. It is a Macson 21 and has light coloured bristles round the edge and a darker interior. That way I can tell them apart. I have had them for at least 50 years and I nicked them off my dad when I went to university, they are probably 1950s vintage if not earlier and still in good nick. If the applying brush gets clogged I rub washing up liquid into it and run it under the hot tap. A bit like these.
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-macson-properts-shoe-shine-512085495 (https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-macson-properts-shoe-shine-512085495)
https://picclick.co.uk/VINTAGE-WOODEN-SHOE-POLISHING-BRUSH-THE-STAR-392148438438.html (https://picclick.co.uk/VINTAGE-WOODEN-SHOE-POLISHING-BRUSH-THE-STAR-392148438438.html)
To answer you question - if Altberg sell it as a boot brush it will be fine. Personally though, I think you need a putting on brush too, I think Altberg sell them as well. Doesn't your local shoe shop sell brushes?
How to? Search YouTube "how to use horse hair brush on shoes" Same principles apply to boots
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qwxhzlzG8w
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I do it like that video. Exactly like it.
Or at least I did when I had leather boots.
Nowadays I'm a nubuck and suede spray on re-proofererererer.
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To answer you question - if Altberg sell it as a boot brush it will be fine. Personally though, I think you need a putting on brush too, I think Altberg sell them as well. Doesn't your local shoe shop sell brushes?
I wouldn't have known what brushes to ask for.
I bought kinkyboots suggestions off of eBay so I hope they're suitable! Would you have recommended I get something like this (https://www.cadetdirect.com/alt-berg-putting-on-brush) instead?
I also wasn't sure how similar to polishing a boot it was. As to that, I've rarely worn smart shoes in my life that need brushes and although I polished shoes a couple of times as a kid it was a long time ago and I don't remember very much about it. So thanks for clearing that up everyone.
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I bought kinkyboots suggestions off of eBay so I hope they're suitable! Would you have recommended I get something like this (https://www.cadetdirect.com/alt-berg-putting-on-brush) instead?
That is the one but it is not essemtial. I haven't got one. Sometimes an old manual toothbrush is useful for the welts too.
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Nowadays I'm a nubuck and suede spray on re-proofererererer.
The people in George Fisher told me waxing was easier. Do you disagree? My boots are nubuck (Meindl Meran GTX) they told me I could use either.
Also could I switch treatment types if people disagree and say spray on re-proofing is easier? I've got wax already and just ordered the brushes so I'll be using wax for now.
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I've never tried waxing them. I just brush/wash the muck off them and spray on the re-proofer... so I guess it's easier.
Is waxing needed for suede/nubuck? My experience so far seems to think not.
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Those brushes were a couple of examples to give you an idea of the type I use - the size of the brushes is not important.
The technique I use is to warm the wax to soften it a little (this won't be required if you're using Meindl Sportwax) and apply it to the boot sparingly with my finger end. The heat from your finger helps the wax to spread and be absorbed into the leather (you could use a cloth if necessary). Pay special attention to any stitching and the tongue.
Then brush to drive the oils contained within the wax down into the leather. Keep brushing until only a fine almost invisible layer of wax remains on the surface and the leather no longer feels greasy or sticky to the touch. This is best done with your brain disengaged while watching TV etc. and it does takes some time and effort.
It may take two or three coats of wax to initially build up some decent protection. Several thin coats is much easier to work in than trying to dollop it on in one thick layer.
Finally buff to a shine (if required) using the horsehair brush.
From memory Meindl's preferred method for treating their waxed nubuck leather boots is a combination of Meindl Wetproof and Meindl Sportwax. I'm sure I've posted about this before.
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My finger, cheap and quick.
Me too O0
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Thanks kinkyboots.
From memory Meindl's preferred method for treating their waxed nubuck leather boots is a combination of Meindl Wetproof and Meindl Sportwax. I'm sure I've posted about this before.
I found this (http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=29793.0) thread with a post you made on it.
Thanks to Owen, Mel, ninthace and jontea too for replying.
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A couple of links which you may find useful
https://www.meindl.de/service/care/?lang=en (https://www.meindl.de/service/care/?lang=en)
https://www.bramwell-int.co.uk/faqs/ (https://www.bramwell-int.co.uk/faqs/)
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj8t87hk8zeAhXOTsAKHSX_DB4QFjAAegQICRAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fhunt-fish.eu%2Fpl%2Fp%2Ffile%2F7360ffa6b3921862bc3fa382c94005ca%2F24-meindl_trekking_care-konserwacja-obuwia.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2HY0NEE9TYfFYXfASk6SW8 (https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj8t87hk8zeAhXOTsAKHSX_DB4QFjAAegQICRAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fhunt-fish.eu%2Fpl%2Fp%2Ffile%2F7360ffa6b3921862bc3fa382c94005ca%2F24-meindl_trekking_care-konserwacja-obuwia.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2HY0NEE9TYfFYXfASk6SW8)
From my experience what I found was that after the initial application of Meindl Wetproof and after a few coats of Meindl Sportwax had been established I never needed to use the Meindl Wetproof again and to me it ended up being money wasted.
It's up to you but I think you'll find the advice given and the products recommended by Whalley Warm & Dry in this post more useful and just as effective on your boots.
http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=37346.msg529788#msg529788 (http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=37346.msg529788#msg529788)
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The technique I use is to warm the wax to soften it a little (this won't be required if you're using Meindl Sportwax) and apply it to the boot sparingly with my finger end. The heat from your finger helps the wax to spread and be absorbed into the leather (you could use a cloth if necessary).
I've heard this before....using your fingertip instead of a cloth.
I usually apply pre warmed wax with a soft cloth, then allow it to dry/sink in for a bit before buffing up with a brush.
Any 'rubbing' action, whether you use your finger or a cloth, will create heat...surely?
I think over waxing boots or applying wax too often has a detrimental effect on the leather. They don't need treating after every use.
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My finger, cheap and quick.
^this. Warmth from my fingers helps soften the wax.
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I use a finger to wax too, then to get them finish them off by running the hairdryer over on them, making sure the wax melts and gets deep into the stitching, around the eyelets and into the creases of the boots.
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I use a finger to wax too, then to get them finish them off by running the hairdryer over on them, making sure the wax melts and gets deep into the stitching, around the eyelets and into the creases of the boots.
I too have used the hairdryer method in the past but does that harm the leather, heating it up?
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Not that I've ever noticed, but I only use a gentle heat and only for a few seconds, just enough to melt the wax. I've always found or it seems to help prolong the life of the stitching, I also find once the wax melts into the stitching holes the wax then cools and seals the holes, making it less likely for water to seep into the boots.
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Not that I've ever noticed, but I only use a gentle heat and only for a few seconds, just enough to melt the wax. I've always found or it seems to help prolong the life of the stitching, I also find once the wax melts into the stitching holes the wax then cools and seals the holes, making it less likely for water to seep into the boots.
Yes it definitely helps to get the wax into the leather and stitching, it makes the process of waxing quicker as well. Be interested to hear others thoughts as well on any long term affects on the leather.
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The people in George Fisher told me waxing was easier. Do you disagree? My boots are nubuck (Meindl Meran GTX) they told me I could use either.
I have the Meran and they have only ever had wax.
Put the tin of wax out in the sun to warm and soften.
Apply with a rag (microfibre cloth) rub well in in a small circular motion generating a bit more heat.
Apply thickly on stitching and work well into the stitching.
Rub well in.
Wait half an hour and 'polish' vigourously with a cloth.
The 'nubuck' has disappeared and they just look/feel like normal soft, smooth leather.
They are the most comfortable slippers (oops - Boots) I have had.
Works for me.
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Yes it definitely helps to get the wax into the leather and stitching, it makes the process of waxing quicker as well. Be interested to hear others thoughts as well on any long term affects on the leather.
[/quote
My regular boots a pair of meindl Bhutans have been resoled once and are now into their fourth year. I'd say the uppers still look in fantastic condition.
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P.s sorry not sure how the quote thing works.😕
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P.s sorry not sure how the quote thing works.😕
Good to hear, obviously not done them any harm then O0
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Me too O0
Slogger posting. And another me too! Fingers.
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Slogger posting. And another me too! Fingers.
I can understand using a finger to apply wax but how do you work the wax into places a finger doesn't go such as around the hooks or to work it into junction between the leather and the sole without a brush? I presume you still use brushes to clean your boots before applying the wax? Do you buff your boots to remove excess wax?
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It's all starting to sound a bit Swiss Tony (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBw-aEixWuo) now ;D
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Fingers, definitely for wax etc
Polish may require gloves though! I enjoy not having to have shiny boots nowadays, so it's all about condition now, wiggle your fingers into the nooks and crannies, they will go.
And additional benefit is that if you do it often enough you won't need waterproof gloves as your fingers will become waterproof ;D
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And additional benefit is that if you do it often enough you won't need waterproof gloves as your fingers will become waterproof ;D
My skin tends to be naturally pretty waterproof.
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My skin tends to be naturally pretty waterproof.
If skin wasn’t waterproof, it could get very messy. :-\
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I purchased my last two pairs of Altberg boots from Whaley Warm and Dry. They advised me to simply use your fingers as the use of cloth/brushes means a certain amount of wax will be wasted as it soaks into the cloth/brush. I leave the boots for a little while after waxing then to allow the wax to be fully absorbed then use a brush to buff them up. I use Leder-Gris after each walk and Leder-Gris Extreme once a month.
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On my Meindl's I use "Cotswold Boot Wax" applied with a cloth and well rubbed in (generating a bit of heat in the fingertips) then buffed with a cloth.
Ingredients :
Natural Beeswax
Instructions :
Apply sparingly with a clean cloth
Allow to dry
For best results apply 2 or 3 coats.
On her 'Horse Tack' my wife uses "Leather Soft Soap" that 'cleans and protects'
Ingredients :
Tallow oleine, Glycerine, Citronella oil
Instructions :
Apply with a well wrung out sponge and work into the leather to lift dirt and grease, conditions and softens leather. For a complete finish, allow to dry and polish with a soft dry cloth.
Do not use on Suede or untreated leather.
Having read up on Google - Tallow Oil is an 'useful' lubricant and now only used in 'fine', expensive soaps
Any suggestions / comments / experiences as to the 'Tack Cleaner and softener' being better than the Beeswax ?
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For a proper job on them, I use the method Lowa seemed to be recommending which is to rinse and scrub the boots in water to clean and dampen the leather. Then spray with waterproofing spray whilst they're still damp, and let that dry which supposedly draws that stuff into the leather. Then I use a brush to apply whatever wax I fancy using - Ledergris or some beeswax stuff I've had for years, ensuring the seams and joins catch extra wax and then use the hairdryer to melt it all in. Brush them up the next day to remove any excess.
I don't do this after every walk, just when when they've got really wet and I can see the wax has come off. For shorter walks or dry walks they get either nothing or a quick brush over with a bit of wax. I do think you can overwax them if you're not careful.
I heard one theory is to heat the boots first, with a hairdryer and then apply wax and let it cool, again to draw the wax into the leather. No idea if it works.
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Edit: for Alan de Enfield...
Think of tack cleaner as the Nikwax Tech Wash of the horsey world - you'd still need to re-proof now and again. As for nourishing, I'd be inclined to continue with a dubbin style wax every now and again on boots even if I was using the tack cleaner, then buff up to polish and shine to seal in the oils and provide a bead-up-able waterproof finish.
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Edit: for Alan de Enfield...
Think of tack cleaner as the Nikwax Tech Wash of the horsey world - you'd still need to re-proof now and again. As for nourishing, I'd be inclined to continue with a dubbin style wax every now and again on boots even if I was using the tack cleaner, then buff up to polish and shine to seal in the oils and provide a bead-up-able waterproof finish.
Thanks for that - I'm not unhappy with the beeswax so I guess I'll stick with that for now.
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I think I must be a complete slut, reading what everyone else does. I have a table in the garden, I brush off excess dry mud with a scrubbing brush, use a cloth to apply wax, and an old toothbrush to push it into the cracks and crannies. Then leave, no buffing, they are going to get dirty again anyway.
O0
ilona
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I think I must be a complete slut, reading what everyone else does. I have a table in the garden, I brush off excess dry mud with a scrubbing brush, use a cloth to apply wax, and an old toothbrush to push it into the cracks and crannies. Then leave, no buffing, they are going to get dirty again anyway.
O0
ilona
Which is almost certainly perfectly fine.
I assume you're not male? Because if there is a way of making a simple task overly complex and technical then that's what most men will do. We can't just wax boots. We have to find THE optimal possible way of waxing boots.
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Which is almost certainly perfectly fine.
I assume you're not male? Because if there is a way of making a simple task overly complex and technical then that's what most men will do. We can't just wax boots. We have to find THE optimal possible way of waxing boots.
Yep, female, 69 year old pensioner. I try and make my life as simple as possible. To be honest, I couldn't understand why anyone would ask which kind of brush. I can only think that it might be from someone who is new to walking, and has paid lots of dosh for the best pair of boots ever and wants them to last a lifetime.
I am at an age where trivialities are of no consequence, I don't stress myself out by making things more complicated than they need to be. Any old brush will do, the lavatory brush if that's the only one you have.
:-*
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To be honest, I couldn't understand why anyone would ask which kind of brush. I can only think that it might be from someone who is new to walking, and has paid lots of dosh for the best pair of boots ever and wants them to last a lifetime.
You're not far off, I used to walk in the south downs years ago but I've never owned leather boots before and they were expensive yes. I'm new to walking in the Lakes, the fells are very different to the sort of walking I used to do.
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Guys, gimme plz some good stores where I can buy shoe brushes ;)
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Guys, gimme plz some good stores where I can buy shoe brushes ;)
They have to be passed down the generations.
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They have to be passed down the generations.
Nice joke, mane ;D
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Two reported.