Polish Tatras by MG

[Mountaingirl]

 Here I am, lived to give my version of Polish Tatras, inspired by Joe’s report.
 
Part 1 (resizing photo worked for some, but not for others. I will have to work on them )

Day2
Having arrived late in the evening in Krakow on Day 1, I walked to the bus terminal to go to Zakopane. There was a queue for the ticket counter. Fortunately, it progressed quickly. When I asked: ‘Can I make it for the next one? (departing in 5 mins)’, the lady told me to go and get the ticket from the driver. I ran and damped my rucksack in the compartment and bus started straight away.
In Zakopane, I found my accom. Stara Polana Hostel about 10 mins from the bus terminal. It is a traditional Zakopane Style wooden house.



When I went into my bedroom..

 
 Giewont made its first appearance over the balcony.



I walked to Krupowki to find something to eat for lunch.  I was curious what ‘Zapiekanska’ was and asked. They showed a French baguette, topped up with mushroom, onion, pepper, cheese etc. I ordered one; they put it in the oven. I was expecting it to be divided into 3 portions, but they gave me the whole 50cm (more than a foot)! 
Day3  Day walk to Sarnia Skala                           
I walked to the bus terminal. There were constant call outs, telling us which buses were departing to where (I guess…since I hardly understood what they were telling). In addition, bus drivers were giving us info on the ground too. I asked ‘Nedzowka?’ and he put me on the 2nd bus. Within 5 mins, the bus departed. It will be like this all the time. Drivers were very helpful. Wherever I wanted to go, they would always point me to the right bus. I have never waited more than 10 mins.
I was dropped off at Nedzowka and the driver pointed where the path would be. I was to take Red route at the foot of Hruby Regiel to Mietusi Przyslop. National Park entrance had nobody. It was rather quiet there.  I started walking along the stream. Here is the beginning. I was excited!


 
After the saddle of Hruby, the descent was steep and slippery with wet rocks. I will have to get a stick. There were a few people at the junction of Mietusi Przyslop. I took Black route towards Sarnia Skala. It was much steeper than I anticipated. It went up and down through the woods. I arrived at Polana Strazyska with a shop and toilet. There were awful lots of people. Giewont was right above.  I took a return trip to see Siklawica Waterfall.

 

I set off again to Sarnia Skala. Here again, it was very busy with walkers.  I had to wait before the last steep ascent while some people walking down backwards gingerly wearing trainers.
 
Continuing east on Black route, I met Yellow route to go down Dolina Bialego. Joe had come up this way. It would have been prettier coming up the stream than going down, as you would have seen many waterfalls appearing one after another on the way up. I had to look back from time to time to appreciate them. There were lots of wild flowers incl orchids and roses.
 
 
I tried to find a stick in the wood as I struggled to get down on slippery wet rocks earlier, but the one I picked up was too bendy. I walked back to town and looked for a walking pole. I would have to leave it behind before flying back on Ryanair with cabin luggage only. I decided to buy the cheapest one for about 16 Pounds. However, it turned out it was a set of 2 poles. They were twice as heavy obviously. If I go to hills in UK, I use 2 poles, but I really did not want to carry 2. I gave up and bought a wooden stick for 12 zloty from a souvenir shop. I needed long one to use it on descent, but it hardly fits into rucksack.

[Mountaingirl]

Part 2
 Day4  Walk to Sch.  Kondratowa and Giewont
I asked the hostel to keep a few things until I come back 4 days later and left a note describing my walk plan ‘in case I don’t come back’. They scanned it and saved it on their PC. I took a bus to Kuznice and start walking on Blue route.  There were even more people. It was like a shopping centre on a Saturday. Fortunately, at the fork, majority of people separated to the shorter path on the left. I took the one on the right as the guide book suggested it was more scenic. I was glad as the view opened up at sch. Kalatowki. Here is the one with a bear warning.
 


Before long, I arrived at the hut Sch. Kondratowa. It was still 11:10. Although they had not cleaned it yet, they let me leave my luggage in my room.
 
 
 
 I set off to Giewont. It started with gentle ascent with the view of tomorrow’s Green route on the left below but it became steeper. At the saddle, it met Yellow path. 2 nuns came dawn from the Giewont.
 
 
 
 
 From there the path got even steeper. There were chains.  Because of heavy traffic, the rock got polished and made it even more slippery. There were some casual walkers who did not know how to use the chain. As they were scared, they won’t stand, but tried to crawl with knees, which made them slip even more. These are the Hillary Steps of Giewont! There was a queue.
 
 
 
 
The top of Giewont was like the top of Snowdon. People were trying to find the place to stand in turns.

 
I could see the path to Sarnia Skala, which I walked the day before. On the opposite direction I could see the next day’s Green route to Kondracka Kopa with steep zigzags before reaching the ridge. 
 
I got back to Schronisko and had my first Bigos! Yum!
During the day time, there was a queue to use one of the 2 toilets with day visitors all the time, but the shower was free when tourist had gone. The shower had luke warm water. I was dreading the sleepless night, having read Joe’s story. I shared the dorm with a little girl and her parents and a single girl in 3 bunk bed room. There was a spare bed. Next door, there were boys and girls with some adults. They didn’t make too much noise. One of the boys helped me to unlock our room, as the key had a strange way to operate (put it only half way through to meet the turning point) They all went to bed early and quietly got up and left early in the morning. I slept well. 

[Mountaingirl]

  Day5  Sch Kondratowa – Kopa Kondracka – Kasprowy Wierch – Swinica- Zawrat – sch Piece Staw
Although I was ready to go and everybody else in the room had gone, I had to wait for the kitchen to open at 7:30 as I did not have my own food. There was no particular breakfast menu. They served same things all the time...lunch, snack, dinner or breakfast. I ordered Zurek, which they gave me a few spoonfuls to try before I decided to opt for Mushroom soup the night before. Zurek is rye floor soup with some boiled egg. It was wholesome, good substitute for porridge and egg.
Having finished breakfast, I set off. It was a lovely morning, sunny and quiet. I started in wild flower meadow. There was nobody in front or behind.

 
I walked in my comfortable pace. The zigzags below the ridge, which looked very steep from Giewont, turned out to be not that hard. I got up to Kondratow Kopa in one hour from the Schonisko.
 

 
I expected a leisurely ridge walk looking at the both sides all the way to Kaspowy Wierch, but it was not the case. There were constant up and down on the rocky path. I had to watch my steps. There was some scrambling on rocks too. Casual walkers come from the cable station with trainers but they seem to manage such scrambling. On trig points, there were signs of P for Poland on left hand side and S for Slovakia on right hand side.
 
 
 
 In about 2 hours from Kondratowa Kopa, I arrived at Kaspowy Wierch. I made a little detour to go to the cable station to use the facility.  There were so many people on the path; there would be no chance to hide in the bush all day! I also had a glass of orange juice. I’m glad I did, as I needed more water than I normally do.
The path to Swinica started gently ….



After a while, it became boulder strewn and there were some chains.
 
 
 A fit looking woman ahead of me hesitated to climb over a gap between rocks. After a few attempts, she got over. I arrived at the point. Suddenly, from the other side, two nuns popped out! How those nuns manage with those long robes?
After the saddle below Swinica, the path became very steep. I had to scramble using both hands on rocks, chains and rungs.



While snaking up the rocks following the markers, I completely lost sense of direction. I reached the top. I was expecting the usual sign to mark the top of Swinica and another to point me to the direction of Zawrat, but there was nothing. Where is the way to Zawrat? I come from Swinica, I should not be going down to where I come from. I asked people around, but nobody knew. Nobody had detailed map like mine. Somebody said, he saw a sign on the way up, I should go back to find it. Suddenly I grew uneasy. I didn’t see any other signs. How can I find it? Time was tight.  I cannot be going back all the way to Swinica.  I went down a while and I asked a man who was coming up. He hadn’t seen any.  I could see some of the five lakes but could not find the path. Then the man I was talking at the top came down and pointed out an arrow painted on the rock. I overlooked it again as it was almost hidden in the corner. I climbed back, turned where the arrow was. After a while I saw some people coming from the opposite direction. I was on track! The path to Zawrat was even more challenging. From a narrow gap between rocks, a woman climbed up, then made a big moan as she panted. I did not understand what she was saying, but when I looked down the gap, I could see what she meant. It was the chimney! Near vertical narrow gap had series of chains and rungs. There was a young couple ahead of me. They asked if I wanted to go first. I said ‘I don’t mind.’ They laughed and decided to go. The healthy looking girl seemed much more agile than the boy and led their way.  The boy was hesitant and far behind the girl, taking a long long time to go down the chains. I waited him to clear a chain. It would not be a good idea to be hanging onto the same stretch of chain. There was another chimney. There was a rocky ascent just before Zawrat. Then some droplets started falling. Thank God. It wasn’t raining at the chimney.  I arrived at Zawrat at 4PM.

 
I hurried down to Piecu Staw in the rain. The path became wet and slippery. There were rambles of thunder too. From time to time, I stopped to see the lakes but I had to be very careful not to slip. It was a long journey down to Sch Piecu Staw. Finally I arrived there safe and alive. I had a booking and had a bed in a 4 bedded dorm. Those with no booking occupied the corridor, dining room and the benches outside under the eaves.
After eating goulash for dinner and having a shower (I had to queue but had nice hot water), I decided to get the apple pie which everybody seemed eating. I took it to the bench outside. One of the young men in the group there told me it was called ‘Szarlotka’. They translate it as ‘apple pie’, but it was a cross between pie and sponge. Not as soft as sponge, but not as crusty as pie. It seems to be the ‘must’ food at schroniskos.   The man also offered a shot of spirit – the bottle had a picture of lemon. I managed 2 sips but surrendered. I can’t drink much alcohol. If I had any more, I wouldn’t be able to clamber over to my upper bed.
The room was well heated, almost too warm. Nobody was sleeping on the floor. I only met a girl on lower bed.  I slept well. I didn’t even see or hear anything about 2 people occupied other beds. Joe, you must be attracting party animals.

[Mountaingirl]

 Day 6      Siklawa Waterfall; Morski Oko
In the morning, I saw a man sleeping in the corridor right next to the door for lady’s bathroom. Despite people going in and out or passing by, he kept sleeping, snoring even after 8AM. This time, instead of waiting for the kitchen to open at 8AM for breakfast menu (this schronisko does breakfast menu), I bought slices of bread and honey (they put them in a sandwich bag for me) and a carton of juice the night before, so that I would not have to wait until so late in the morning.
Since I could not see the lakes well because of the rain the day before, I decided to walk back along the lakes and go to see Siklawa waterfall. Beautiful lakes emerged one after another reflecting mountains with remaining snow.


 
I walked back to the wooden bridge and turned to the Green route to waterfall. There was a big slippery looking wet rock with no chain. I really hate going down on wet rocks! I almost gave up but found dwarf pines at the edge. I grabbed their branches and went down gingerly. Impressive waterfall appeared. It continued down in several stages.  I descended for about 30 mins to reach the bottom. I was glad I went but would not have liked to do it if I was carrying a backpack in rain.  When I started to go back, yesterday’s young couple come down. The boy told me it was the biggest waterfall in Poland.
 
 

I returned to schronisko and set off to Morski Oko at 10:25. The path was on boulders. They were still wet. I realised I needn’t have brought a pair of gaiters. The path could be wet, but there was no mud. On the way to Swistowa Czuba, I looked back to see 3 of 5 lakes – Front lake and the schronisko, Little lake and Big Lake.

 

After I went to the other side of Swistowa Czuba, another lake emerged in front of me. It was Morski Oko. I descended and was amazed to find the paved road! It took me 3 day’s walking to reach there, yet, tourists were coming on buses and horse-drawn carts for a day trip.
I arrived at the schronisko just after 12. I was able to check in. Luckily, my room was on the top floor with the view of the lake. The dorm was spacious and had 5 proper beds.



I had a lunch with Borscht and a croquet (rolled pan cake filled with cabbage and mincemeat and deep flied) at the schronisko. They often served together. I had it at the outside table. A Tree creeper (on back of map, it described as Nuthatch but I think it is Tree creeper) come and perched on a Rowan Tree. Somebody held up a piece of potato chip and the bird flu out of perch, picked up the chip and went to eat on another perch.



I had to get away from the crowds. The shore by the schronisko hardly had anywhere to sit. As I walked along the lake further, it became a little quiet.
When the day tourists left, the place got quieter. I was sharing the room with a German couple and another couple of a girl from China and a man from Denmark. When I said I was going to Rysy the next day, the Danish man asked ‘Do you have equipment for rock climbing?I went last time but it was very steep and hard.’ The German guy told me ‘I heard there was some snow. You’d better go with a group of people. It may be difficult to find the path.’ Why? Joe and Abs had been there. Chains will be there. I didn’t think I needed special equipment, but they frightened me.
 

[letmeoutofhere]

Brilliant report Mountain Girl! thanks for that, and the lovely pictures 

[Mountaingirl]

 
Day7 Rysy
 
I wanted to allow enough time for the day. I got up at 6, had breakfast with juice and cheese and rye bread sandwich, which I brought from Zakopane, and left at 7:10. The lake was very quiet, unlike yesterday. The mountains were in the clouds. I hoped it clear off by the time I get there.


 
 I arrived at the upper lake, Czarny Staw at 7:50. There was a party of young people with a leader. They were lightly equipped. Many people were wearing light walking boots.  I wondered if they were going to Rysy. It turned out they were. One item they had but I didn’t was a pair of trekking gloves. The one without the tip of fingers but with reinforced palm parts. I remembered, in Japan, we always took gloves even in the summer to scramble rocks. We went up rocky path and traversed the snowy slope. Although some part was covered in snow, it was well trodden.

 
After a while, I was separated from the group but there were other people too. Markings were constantly appearing on the rocks. However, at one point, I lost the sight of these markings. I decided to sit on a rock and wait for somebody to turn up. A couple appeared and walked towards me, then stopped. They also looked lost. The man asked ‘Do you know where the path is?’ I confessed ‘No I don’t!’    Eventually another group came and found a marking a little away from where we were. I seemed to have got off from the path. We had been walking in fog and mist. I had hoped the clouds would lift, but it was getting thicker. I put on a pair of water proof. A series of chains appeared. It was easy with the chains. You just grab it and hoist you up. Chains also mark the path. As long as following the chain, I can’t get lost. It was fun. The first 1 hour was long but after the chain, I progressed quickly. I was thinking ‘another hour’ then suddenly, I was on the Rysy summit. I got there in 3 Hours 40 mins from the schronisko incl. some breaks. The summit was in a cloud. It was a little windier. I put on fleece and waited for the cloud to clear. When the cloud drifted, Slovakia summit appeared in a short distance. I crossed over there.  I could feel there was the sun somewhere above, but we were still in the cloud.

 
 I sat in the saddle between 2 summits and decided to wait for the cloud to clear. I thought: ‘It was easy peasy. Swinica was much tougher.’  I was talking too soon! I stayed there for about 1 hour but it didn’t improve. I decided to descent. After a while I started seeing things I did not remember seeing on the way up, a sign, cairns…. Maybe they were hidden in the fog and mist. Then I saw people walking with a little dog. I should have remembered, but I didn’t.
hummmm, I don't remember seeing this sign...


It started to drizzle. I hated wet and slippery rocks. I might be quick to ascend but I let everybody pass on the descent. There was a father and son coming down very fast and grabbed the same chain I was descending with. These people had no manners. Don’t share the chain!
 
After seeing some pipes, I saw a building! I managed to go down on Slovakia side! It was Chata Pod Rysmi. It took me 40mins to descend there, but I got back up to the summit in 30mins.  Then I was back on Polish summit again. I looked down Polish side and took more direct route. Soon, familiar chains appeared. Dogs are not allowed on Polish side.  It was much harder to descend on the chains. Drizzle became more like rain. Chains were wet, rocks were wet. I got very dirty with rusty chains. My gloves got torn. There weren’t many people around anymore. I had to be very careful not to lose sight of marking in the fog. Yet, there were still people coming up from time to time. A man came up and said ‘It may be easier for you to go down on Slovakian side.’ I said ‘I’m staying in Morski Oko. I have to go back there. How about you?’  ‘I left my car on Polish side.’ He will be very late.
 
At last I was back at Czarny Staw. It was peace and quiet.  I took time to appreciate it. It was even more beautiful than Morski Oko.
 
 
 
 
I got back to Schronisko at 17:15. It took a little longer to descend than to ascend. When I went back to the dorm, the Danish man told me they had been to Szpiglasowy Wierch. It was not raining. He proposed to the Chinese girl on the top! He had been planning it for a long time. And she said ‘Yes’. Everybody in our dorm was tired. We went to bed by 8:30.

[Mountaingirl]

 Day 8 Return to Zakopane
Both couples left by 7:30. I took time and left schronisko at 8:30. I strolled along Rybi Potok brook on Red route, looking at wild flowers, listening to the bird’s songs.
 




 

 I arrived at Stara Rozteka in 1 hour and looked at the waterfall from the bridge, form where I continued up stream to see more.
 

 
However, I was defeated at a slippery rock. I returned to Polana and continued on Red route a while, then branched off towards Waksmundzka Rowien. I took the Green route to Gesia Szyja, which was supposed to be ‘possibly the best outlook from any minor summit in the Tatras ’according to Cicerone guide.  Alas, it started raining again. When I got there, it was in fog.
I waited a while to see if it clears, but I was buzzed around by flies, which seemed to follow people and animals. I had to run away from them and arrived at Rusinowa Polana.

 
 I had seen people in trainers, but here they were wearing high heel shoes and had handbags! After a while, I found why. There was a wedding at the little chapel in the meadow.
 I continued on Green route to Wierch Poroniec to get the bus. The rain turned into a thunder storm and the path turned into a river. In torrential downpour, I arrived at the road and found the bus stop. I couldn’t read the time table well because it was wet.  The next bus seemed to be coming in a few minutes. It had an extra letter, but I didn’t understand if it meant ‘weekday’ or ‘school holiday’ or else. Once I stopped, I got cold soon. While I was walking I didn’t need fleece inside waterproof, but if the bus doesn’t come soon, I would need to get it out from rucksack to wear it. I felt it long time, but it might have been less than 10 mins. The bus came!
I got back to Stara Polana hostel soaking wet. I was given the same room as before.  I was ‘home’. I had a shower and washed my hair with nice hot water. Lovely! I asked if I could use the washing machine. The girl took me to the machine, provided washing detergent and softener. They put them up on line in attic for me when it finished. (all free)
 
to be continued...

[sunnydale]

This is an excellent report Kay and your photos are great.    You certainly had a few experiences along the way!


Thanks for taking the time to write and post it,


Take care,


Tracey   x

[Mountaingirl]

 Day 9  Dolina Chocholowska and Grzes
I walked to the bus station and found one of the drivers on the ground, asked ‘Siwa Polana?‘  He pointed the bus nearby.  I got on and the bus started in a minute.
I got off at the last stop, Siwa Polana = Dolina Chocholowska. There were several attractive wooden huts in the meadow. This is it! I had been wondering what they were selling on the street of Krupowki. They looked like cakes moulded in one of those wooden ones found in folk museums. An elderly woman let me taste one. It was a smoked sheep cheese. They smoke it in these huts.
 

 

 
After a while, I entered in Dolina (valley). Paved road followed beautiful stream for about 4 Km. No need to watch my footing. I strolled, taking in the scenery.
 

 
There were options to go by taxi train, horse drawn cart or rental bike. Walking is the best! When I came for a snow showing holiday a few years ago on anorganised tour, we were taken on a horse ride in the snow in the evening. I had no idea where we went in the dark. That’s what happens when you are taken a ride planned by somebody else. It might have been here. Guide book advised not to go to Dolina Kosieliska at weekends as it would be very busy. Therefore, I opted to this Dolina. It would not have made any differences, though. There are many people here too. Wherever I went, there were always many people. There are healthy young population from toddlers to teenagers who enjoy walking in Poland. The smooth surfaced road turned into a dirt track, then a cobbled road began. I wouldn’t have liked cycling on the bumpy road. It was overcast earlier but the sun started shinning. In 2 hours, Sch. Chocholowska was in sight. There were wooden cheese smoking huts, shepherd cottages and staples. I walked to the chapel at the edge of the meadow.


 
I liked the modern Christ carved in wood inside.


 
 
 I sat on one of several benches in front. While I was having a picnic, sheep moved closer, made sleepy noise with sheep bells.
I decided to continue on Yellow route to the border peak of Grzes 1653m. I had to be careful to take the bend to the left, or I would end up in Slovakia again! I walked the path on the border.


 
 
 In just over 1 hour, I arrived at the minor summit of Grzes. There were 2 signs of Polish and Slovak to distinguish from each other.
Polish sign


 
Slovak Sign

 
 
 
 I could have continued further on the ridge, but the path was disappearing into the clouds. Slovakian side was misty. I would not like to descend on wet rocks if it starts raining again. I stayed there a while and made my way back.  At the point where I had to be careful not to go to Slovakia, this time, I deliberately went in to have a look.


 
 
 There would have been a time it was forbidden. I returned to the hut, sch. Chocholowska and had some drink.


 

I had a gentle stroll and came to Polana Huciska, where paved road resumed. There was a rental bike stand, which you could rent one way and drop it on the other side. I was not at all tired but it seemed fun to go on a bike on gentle descent. I made sure to find a bike for my size and paid 5 zlote (1 pound) and cycled downhill to Siwa Polana for 4 Km with no effort.
more to come...
 

[sunnydale]

Really enjoying your reports Kay 

[Annejacko]

Enjoying your TR, some fantastic walks and scenery I'm looking forward to the next instalment

[Mountaingirl]

 
 Day 10 sch Murovaniec and Czarny Staw Gasienicowy
 
Moving day. Since I could not find a single room in one hotel for the whole period, I booked another one for the next 4 nights. Staff at Hostel Stara Polana had been kind to me. The kitchen and the bath room were kept clean and tidy. I only had to share the bathroom with the couple next door.  I don’t know what the dorm would have been like but the single room was good. The only defect was that the old house was not sound proof. I could hear the little sounds from next door, upstairs and downstairs, though nobody was really noisy. I would recommend it, unless you are a party animal and want to be near bars and night clubs.
 
I moved to Willa Orla, where I stayed last time for a snowshoeing holiday. It was in Ul Koscieliska where Zakopane style wooden houses are concentrated.
This is my favourite house in the street.



Here is my new hotel

 
The hotel Willa Orla was solid. Sound proof and well insulated with double grazed windows (when outside cooled down, the room was still warm, unlike the previous hostel where it got chilly after the sunset). I had en suite bathroom.


 
However, the single bed was narrow. The room was not as pretty as the twin room I shared with another person last time. They provided gorgeous breakfast of better quality…for the double the price of the hostel I moved from. Still, it was a price of YHA in UK. Previous hostel had more personal touch though.
 
I left extra luggage at the hotel, and went out to take a bus to Kuznice.  Although there were so many people near the cable car station as usual, once I started walking on the Blue route to sch. Murovaniec, it became quieter. After going through the woods and walking up to the ridge, I saw Sarnia Skala and Giewont. After the saddle of Miedzy Kopami, I began to see the peaks of Orla Perc including Swinica and Zawrat where I had been on the south side the previous week on Day 5. I thought about how I toiled my way up and down with a backpack.  As I continued and got closer, I could see the route from this north side to Zawrat.


 
Today with a light pack in sunshine, I was strolling casually admiring the beautiful rocky mountains with snow.
I arrived at the pasture above sch. Murovaniec where some summer houses were found. The ridge of Orla Perc was getting closer.


 
 I walked down to the sch Murovaniez from where I continued up to the lake, Czarny Staw Gasienicowy. There was a sign post with pictures showing ‘Don’t swim’ ‘Don’t feed the duck’ ‘Don’t throw coins of EUR, Zlote or USD’ (no picture of GBP).
 

 
Although it is called ‘Czarny Staw (black lake)’ the colour was not too different from the other lakes but clear emerald green. There were lots of baby rainbow trout.
 
Then I heard a helicopter. It hovered over between Zawrat and Swinica. I was alarmed.  After a while, it disappeared to the other side of the ridge. Well, I must have had too much imagination. I walked the west side of the lake towards north.  This part had quite a few mini coves, peninsulas and an island.
 

 
 
When the path started going uphill, I heard the helicopter again. This time it hovered over the other side of Zawrat. (East side of Zawrat is for experience climbers only) After a while a person (or a parcel) was dropped down….then another one…then the 3rd…and the 5th….after which the helicopter had gone again. After all, it was not a rescue, perhaps it was dropping equipment or materials.  However, the helicopter came back. This time it started picking up what were on the ground. I could not see the details. As I had been there and seen how tortious it was even in the part everybody could go,  I was concerned and hoped it was not serious. Here I was, having relaxed peaceful walk without any pressure or challenge. I did not have to reach any particular point by any particular time but could walk as far as I felt like. I never found out why the helicopter was there.
 
 I traced my footsteps to the saddle of Miedzy Kopami with the view of Zakopane and beyond.

 
 This time, I took Yellow route to go down to Kuznice passing through the meadow with wild flowers and following the stream in the wood. Since the path was dry, even it was downhill, I could take over the others.
 
In the evening, when I was coming back from meal out, I saw the rocky face of Giewont glowing in the setting sun.
continues...
 

[Mountaingirl]

 Day 11
Dolina Koscieliska and Polana na Stolach
I took a bus to Kiry to walk Dolina Koscieliska which I had avoided at the weekend but the valley seemed just as busy on a weekday. However, there was no rubbish despite so many people everywhere. I strolled along the river.


 
 Before long, I entered the forest. There was a little chapel. I liked the pair of wooden statues guarding the front.

 
There were some caves off the main route. The routes take one-way system with some chains. A torch would be needed and you should be prepared to get wet and dirty. I’d think about Yellow route on return and decided to test the Red route. It started with climbing with the chain on the rocky path, still outside the cave. In about 10 mins, I arrived at the entrance of the cave. I put my head torch on and walked in. Inside was like a maze. Some passages lead to the exits soon. The one continuing further was very narrow and low. I would have to crawl on hands and  knees on waterly ground. On such a beautiful sunny day, I did not want to get wet and dirty. I am not really into caving. I prefer big open space. I decided I had a taste of a cave and went back to where I came from, since there was nobody coming from the other end.
I arrived at the hut, sch. Ornak. There were an awful lot of people as this is the most popular valley. The mountains behind were stunning. I sat a little further away on the grass and had my sandwich with local smoked sheep cheese. Yum!



I wondered where I should go for the extra. I had seen the cave (sort of…). There is an upper lake. My guide book warned there would be lots of flies. I was not sure what they were…horse flies?  hover flies?  but they were real nuisance. They didn’t bite but buzzed around and drove me mad. The lake did not sound particularly attractive. It was not very high; therefore I did not expect much more view either.
I decided to go to Polana na Stolach 1417m. I went down the valley retracing my foot steps for quite a while. There was a big difference in course time between the guidebook (45 mins) and the map (1H 20 mins). When I turned into the Blue route, I met a little girl and her parents. The girl greeted ‘Hello’. I replied ‘Hello’. She said something in Polish, which I didn’t understand.  The father told me they had seen a ‘Tatras flower’ and showed the photo in his camara. It was Edelweiss.  He said ‘Szarotka’. I said ‘It sounds like an apple pie!’ Mother said ‘it’s Szarotka. Apple pie is Szarlotka’ I still didn’t hear the difference. I said ‘we have one in Japan too’. Having discovered I was from Japan, the girl counted from 1 to 10 in Japanese. I waved good bye and continued the ascent. I came out of woods and arrived at a meadow with 3 shepherd huts.
 

 
 
There were lots of wild flowers, but I could not find any Edelweiss.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 
 I continued uphill and came to a sign post.  It had been 45 mins. Is it the end? Then I saw a mother and daughter going up to a big rock a little further up. As I followed them, I began to see Edelweiss here and there.



They told me again, ‘Sharlotka. You only find it here.’  It seems to mean very special for Polish people. From the rocky summit, there was a fabulous view of Giewont in front, Sarnia Skala on the left and the high one on the right must be Ciemniak. When I went over to the other side of the rock, Zakopane appeared. I was glad I picked the right walk. I sat on the grass and enjoyed the nice breeze.  It was quiet and peaceful.


 

I walked back to Kiry. I knew there were several buses going back to Zakopane on different routes. I wanted to get on the one going via Ul Koscieliska to go back to the hotel. As I looked for the right one, a young driver came and asked: ‘Can I help you?’ He said his bus was not going but I should take the ‘Green one’ over there. Later, I learnt the bus on Koscieliska route was always Green.   
to be continued.. .

[sunnydale]

Still enjoying your report and photos Kay    Looking forward to more!


Tracey

[joester]

Yep, keep it coming!