Author Topic: Ridgeway  (Read 16405 times)

titaniumdude

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
Ridgeway
« on: 19:40:08, 21/08/06 »
I have a week off coming up and just for the hell of it and just cos its there I thought I'd walk the Ridgeway.  Thought it would take 4/5 days cos it's quite flat.  Done the lot off roading before , but now most of it's closed to vehicles (including bikes) so I thought it was worth a revisit on foot.  Also it finishes (or starts if you ptrefer ) in Avebury where I have spent many an interesting summer solstice (or more specifically the Red Lion where I intend to spend the night when I arrive). 

 I know its only a short easy journey and I do't intend to use campsites so any tips or advice would be appreciated.

TA! Titaniumdude
I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing

titaniumdude

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #1 on: 23:25:54, 04/09/06 »
Ok guys, thanks for the avalanche of advice ;)

 Never mind.  I hiked the length of the Ridgeway national trail just to see if I could more than anything.  Did I say it was short and easy above.  Weeeell, I actually really stretched myself with the route plan I chose and did actually find this to be a challenge.

As far as national trails go this is a strange one.  In the official 85 miles of the trail I hiked through church gardens, golf courses (with folks teeing off- never liked golf anyway ;D), peoples gardens, straight through farmers fields, over motorways, under motorways, through small villages, along tarmack, country road, greenlane, footpath, forrest path and even at one point the front curteilage of the Prime Ministers country home!  The list of strangeness is almost in-exhaustive and to be honest I didn't entirely know what to expect when setting off despite having driven a good portion of the western half in the past.  Since I was planning to camp the whole way and since there are few camping facilities there were also logistical problems, especially after crossing the Thames (did I say it crossed the Thames?) where there are very few sources of water without significantly detracting from the trail (which I didn't want to do since I was pushing my mileage already). 

The trail is an ancient trading/travelers path speckled with many places of archaeological interest (more so in the west).  The path tends towards the highest points along the way and even though there is no single summit of Merritt, many trig points are passed and many smaller ascents and subsequent descents must be made.  The legend goes that ancient people followed the higher points (hence the Ridgeway) to avoid passing through low woodland and exposing themselves to ambush.  Folks followed this trail for the same reason the many hillforts were built along the way=-  you can see any threat coming from miles.  The trail gives a great sense of isolation in long stretches, is very rugged in places and also has enough surprises to keep you going.

Officially 85 miles, my GPS informed me that I had walked 92, this being achieved through minor diversions.  The weather was hot and due to the poor supply of water I found that I had to start the day with 4.5l (10 pounds) of water.

I followed the trail from east to west and did it in the 4 following stages

!.  Ivinghoe Beacon to Lodge Hill
2.  Lodge Hill to Wallingford
3.  Wallingford to Waylands Smithy
4.  Waylands Smithy to Overton Hill

A 5th could be added since I ultimately aimed for the stone circle at Avebury and a well deserved pint or seven in the Red Lion.  If this thread gets some minor interest I'll post some more information on the stages I hiked.  Hell I'll probably post some anyway ;D ;D
I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing

MartinN

  • New Member
  • *
  • Posts: 10
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #2 on: 21:10:26, 06/09/06 »
Hi Titaniumdude, interesting write up on the Ridgeway. I've spent a lot of time up there particularly from the Pangbourne end over to Hinton Parva. I actually live in that part of the world and used the bridle/foot paths as well as the Ridgeway for fitness training last year. Just about to start again in fact.
Look forward to reading more on your walk.

Martin 

titaniumdude

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #3 on: 23:14:15, 08/09/06 »
Woohoo!  This thread is really hotting up ;D.  Thanks for the encouragement Martin.  Tell you what I'll do, I'll break it down into the 4 stages and give some more details with pics (some aren't mine, they're trawled, but just for illustration.  By the way, nice stomping ground you got there Martin, bloody miles of trails of all sorts!

Day one or 'attack of the killer badgers'
I started off at lunch time from Ivinghoe Beacon and thankfully the sun wasn't too deadly.  Things start out pretty routine with an ordinary footpath followed by a few stiles and a country track.  The going is pretty easy, but it doesn't take long to realise that this trail has an upward trend.  First real summit (?) Pitstone hill with views all around including an ancient windmill.  Some steps and woodland are then traversed followed by bridges and the first major road to be crossed.  Soon follows the first of many more trig points.  I don't want to go into much more detail (thats what guide books are for)l, but you get the picture for this itinerary is typical of the walk east of the river Thames.  There are some great views and at one point a plaque is passed which marks the highest point of the Chiltern hills.  My first leg [passed through the centre of Wendover (after about 16 miles) where I replenished my water supplies realising that I wouldn't be near a further source until the next day.  A steep hill follows Wendover ending in a monument to 1899-1902 south Africa campaign.  Some nice woodland is then passed through where I was tempted to make my first wild camp, but it was a little too busy and it was still quite early.  Through fields and gates one then finds oneself marching across the Chequers estate, the country home of the prime minister.  Apparently everyone gets video recorded passing through here (you cant get away from spying eyes anywhere).  Eventually Princes Risborough is passed which marked the home run to my first planned camp at Lodge Hill about a mile and half from Chinnor.  I arrived at about half eight and cooked my tea and indulged in a can of beer I guiltily purchased in Wendover.  That night I pitched in the woods (not wanting to pitch in exposed ground due to a recent electrical storm experience.  All was well for the first 2 hours kip and then this is what I was subjected to for the rest of the night....click the link

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/badger10/cubsplay.wav

http://www.wildcru.org/research/ecol/sounds/growl.wav

http://www.wildcru.org/research/ecol/sounds/squeak.wav

Yes goddam badgers from about 1am until dawn it put me in mind of this.....

http://politics.guardian.co.uk/wales/comment/0,,912483,00.html

but more so this....

http://www.badgerbadgerbadger.com/

At one point I got really peed off opened my tent and shined my torch around only to get barked at loudly by a boar only feet away.  Aw well back to non sleep.  I had to laugh.  After all the badgers had probably been there for hundreds of years and I was trespassing their territory.  It was actually worth the hassle though cos breakfast on top of Lodge Hill in the glorious morning sun was wonderful.  Even the dogwalkers were friendly.  Thus began day 2 which I will go through below.  Bet you can't wait!
I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing

titaniumdude

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #4 on: 23:19:05, 08/09/06 »
More pics including my ill placed camp.  Whilst having dinner in the dark I was however treated to great clear views over Princes Risbrough and as far as Aylesbury.  At one point there was a firework display on the horizon that went on for quite a while.  Or was that just the fatigue setting in?
I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing

Gill

  • New Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #5 on: 13:47:36, 12/09/06 »
Hi Titaniumdude,
I am new here and nowhere as experienced walker as you.  Did you do this walk alone?
I am stil in the beginners when it comes to walking....time mainly.
Still....oneday..................

titaniumdude

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #6 on: 22:49:41, 12/09/06 »
Hi Gill and welcome.  Yes I did do this on my own, but I confess to being inexperienced of recent times with hikes of this length.  Used to do loads on Dartmoor with wild camps years ago, but this is the first one for a while.

Apologies for the double podted pic and apologies for the trawled pic of 'Ivinghoe Beacon trig' (?) which doesn't look like the trig I remember.

 Anyway, as promised this is day 2

This was the shortest leg of the journey.  I planned to go further with a wild camp in woods past Streetley, but I was getting tired due to lack of sleep.  I camped in a generic campsite at Wallingford just befor the railway bridge (9 quid to pitch an akto, go figure) which had reasonable facilities and ate lots of food and acquiredsome beer in the village as well (yum!).  The last picture above is actually early on in this day.  The field was full of cows and there was a sign on the gate  of entry, which was the official trail, which declared 'beware of the bull@.  Now this is not legal and I will in time report this to the ranger who care sfor this national trail.  Despite the fact that my family are farmers who used to keep bulls/cows I'm still quite wary of them and it is not too easy to spot the bull in a field of cows anyway.  Still, I traversed the field (rapidly) and without mishap.  More pleasant paths and woodland followed with a short detour to Chinnor to stock up on water.  More fields more country track and great weather.  The trail passes Watlington which can easily be detoured to for supplies (I managed to purchase a pint of milk for energy).  Past churches over busy roads, across another golf course (this time marked with white posts to keep walking poles off the greens).  It is around this point that the first good views of the Thames river are gained.  The trail then follows a stretch of Grimms Ditch whereupon reaching the A4074 I ditched the trail for the campsite in Wallingford and a much deserved ice cream and beer.  This did however mean that the next stretch would now be 26.5 miles approx, rather than the 23 planned.  Much more than I had walked with a full pack for a while.  This also marked the beginning of  a more arrid stretch of the Ridgeway and I would begin the next day with 4.5l of water in and around my pack (platypus folding bottles and camelbak).
I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing

titaniumdude

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #7 on: 22:53:31, 12/09/06 »
couple more pics from day two.  This part of the trip was also broken by the crossing of the Thames the following morning.  Bet you guys can't wait for day three can you ;D
I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing

titaniumdude

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #8 on: 22:07:50, 13/09/06 »
Okay here we go.  I just can't resist posting days 3 and 4. 

This was the longest and in some ways most interesting day of the trip.  The day started with a mile hike back to the trail and once there a meander through small towns to reach the bank of the river Thames.  A long and pleasantly sunny stroll through fields and country paths with sedate views of river barges until the Thames was crossed from Gorring to Streetly ( I think this was the case).  This marked the beginning of a Barron stretch of the Ridgeway with the only water source for the next sixteen miles being a commemorative water tap just before the A34 underpass.  Or so my guide book said which was a little misleading as it is a little way before the underpass and due to this I missed it (this actually payed off later as will be seen).  I had started the day with a mammoth supply of water though.  Agood stretch at the beginning of the trip from Gorring is along  road, but this does swap itself for countrytrail after a couple of miles.  More fields, more paths etc .  The trail passes within about a mile of Segsbury Camp, an iron age fort, but I was in no mood to deck off the trailcos I was beginning to get quite bad shin splint from my efforts and had quite early in the day resorted to using both my trekking poles to try and relieve some of the strain to my lower legs. This is a long stretch with some panoramic views of the surrounding area and for the most part the track is pleasant if not rugged.  After a good while a farmhouse is passed and it is here that the only other water source on the trail for this leg lies.  A rather touching memorial to a young lad aged 14 with a small plaque saying 'in memory of Peter Wren aged 14 years.  He loved the country side'.  This was a godsend and I toasted his memory with Adams ale and much gratitude.  As I refilled my water bottles I discovered that my camelbak was down to the last couple of inches.  This source of water was a great relief.This also marked the home run to Waylands Smithy and my next pitch and the sun was beginning to set.  White horse hill is passed as well as Uffington castle, however I could not fully appreciate these as by now I was resorting to my head torch for guidance.  I reached the Smithy at about half ten and enjoyed a cold dinner.  Tent pitched right at the back of the Smithy I enjoyed my pipe and the contents of my hip flask to keep the spectres at bay.  Waylands Smithy is a 5500 year old burial chamber (long barrow) which was further built upon with stone replacing the original wooden structure about 1500 tears later.  The name Waylands Smithy is actually a contemporary misnomer ( ;D) since this name was given 4000 years after the original barrow was built.  Saxons could not explain the existence of this impressive burial site and attributed it to one of their gods 'Wayland the Smithy'.  Legend has it that an offering of a silver coin will lead to your horse being mysteriously reshod by the next day.  This is a wonderfully peaceful place and guess what.  NO BADGERS!  I pitched late struck camp early and left not a single trace as a payed my respect to the now unknown dead of the long barrow.
« Last Edit: 22:11:37, 13/09/06 by titaniumdude »
I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing

titaniumdude

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #9 on: 22:14:48, 13/09/06 »
More day3 pics for your delight.
I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing

MartinN

  • New Member
  • *
  • Posts: 10
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #10 on: 12:48:12, 14/09/06 »
Hi Titaniumdude

When do we get the last installments?? Good pics by the way.

ATB

Martin

Jules

  • New Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #11 on: 18:47:56, 15/09/06 »
Hey there,

Just wanted to say I really enjoyed reading about your trip!  Love that picture in the first set of the fields etc, makes me want to run outside now.

I agree, what's the latest installment?

Jules  :)
Jules
:-)

titaniumdude

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #12 on: 21:17:30, 15/09/06 »
An audience.  What more could I ask for ? :)

Wahey.  Well here it is the3 ultimate day of the trip.  Day four: a descent to the peak of Overton Hill. 

Only about 20 miles to go this time and I had adequate water left over from my visit to the young lads memorial.  more similar paths are hiked.  The track eventually makes a noisy crossing of the M4.  Some world war 2 pilboxes are passed before going by yet another hill fort, that of Liddington Castle.  Some before track is passed and then over the river OG ( which was totally devoid of water and overgrown with weeds on this day ).  Higher ground is yet again attained culminating in the rather impressive Barbury Castle (a visitors centre Can be used for refreshment).   The Marlborough downs are then crossed to Fyfield Down and soon the first glimpse of Avebury (and therefor the home run ).  Many barrows are passed before the ultimate and descent to the understated end of the line.  The nondescript car park at Overton Hill.  All is not lost here though as the carpark is right next to the Sanctuary, a neolithic circle of rather impressive barrows.

My woman met me shortly after this and transported me to the Red Lion at avebury and a few well earned pints of scrumpy jack.  We camped in the area for a couple of days and met some interesting folks running a 'Pagan camp' in a local campsite.  We also returned to Uffington and The Sanctuary to take more pics.
I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing

Crag Rat

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 47
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #13 on: 18:51:06, 16/09/06 »
Looks like a great trip TD - I'll have to try this wild camping malarky (got to convince my wife first though! ;))

We're planning to do the Coast to Coast next year (St. Bees to Robin Hoods Bay) so it's great to see some other long distance trails written up here.
....because it's there....

titaniumdude

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
Re: Ridgeway
« Reply #14 on: 00:39:27, 19/09/06 »
Cheers CR.  Look forward to reading about your coast to cost trup (This is yet another I've been eying up).  Wild camping is a bit hit or miss I must say though it is more exciting (and cheaper ;D).  I've only been chased off once (by an irate National Trust ranger), but there are other possible inconveniences (BADGEEEERS!!! :P).  If you want to try it and still be legal you have the whole of Scotland.  Or you could try Dartmoor where you can pitch anywhere 'wild' so long as there is only one tent and it can't be seen from houses or roads.  This is unusual for England and worth taking advantage of, especially since Dartmoor is one of my fave places on the planet.

Oh and I can't resist one more pic ;D
I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing

 

Terms of Use     Privacy Policy