Day Five“He who walks, lives longer
Walks away from problems, walks to find answers
Sharpens the memory, slowness quickens the mind
Blood pressure falls, euphoric highs
Immune system strengthened
Inhaling life, exhaling smiles”
Nothing like a pandemic and isolating at home to awaken you to what’s really important in life …. Walking in Scottish Highlands, so let’s not waste any time and get back there …
I woke to a window view of dozens of deer chomping on the grass outside the B&B and Ian, to real coffee and a cooked breakfast – equally delightful, he proclaimed.
With dew dripping from the fauna and dampness perforating the air, we circled round the Loch point following a dirt track into a wee wood, with poignant tips for river crossings ahead ringing in Ian’s ears from the B&B owner.
Ian was toying with me.. each time we came to a split in the path, he tossed a coin to decide which one to go down – route finding by luck, whatever next.
The trail fords Allt a'Coire Reidh river (wide but slow, even in rain) next to a small deer stalking hut that can be used for sleeping if needed (not locked, with one bench).
Welcome dry feet and a track gave me the chance for a chat…
“As we’ve had a few mishaps and not wishing anything else bad, Ian, but for a bit of fun, would you like to know my anti-wish list as well … with the aim of crossing off as few as possible
"Hmm, let’s hear it . ."
“Get lost
Fall and injury ourselves
Cannot make a decent fire”
“...Come on Zen, sounds like ‘take the [censored] out of me’ list - that’s 100% crossed at the mo!”
“Hear me out..
Posted parcel not be delivered”
- Ooh Ian, you did remember to post a couple? – not too many shops round here!”
“Yeah, lots of treats for me, ha ha!”
“Stuck in a bog - who’ll be the first?
Lose your phone / phone malfunction
Rain everyday & Highland’s special - horizontal rain
Tent leak
Soaking sleeping bag
Fall sick
Pneumonia
Dehydration”
“though fat chance of that, Zen.. no sun”
Turn back due to impassable river”
“… almost on the last one”
“Broken rib”
“No, Zen, not that again!”
“I’ll never forget the pain on your face when you sneezed… “
“Blisters”,
“Arr Zen – remember those you had in Spanish Pyrenees!”
“How could I not. Not sure what was worse, the pain or the embarrassment of wearing those ridiculous boots you made out of polystyrene foam sheets!
“We both picked ourselves up and finished the treks though”
“How about … Run out of food”
“Oh no, Ian please no, horror upon horrors!
“Maybe this wasn’t such a good idea after all, I’ll have nightmares now about no food!
At least it’ll focus our mind on keeping safe!”
“It hasn’t rained today…yet, so I’d say 3 crosses so far …
Let’s keep it just 3!
How many have we ticked off your wish-list …?”
“Four:
Freedom forests, Fresh streams and rivers, Remote hut stay & a wild camp alongside a river”
“one more with ‘Ace views’ …here’s another”
Near a deep stalking hut, Allt a'Coire Reidh river was thankfully low. Given the luxury of dry feet, I was surprised Ian waded straight through.. must be worse up ahead.. oh, so right he was…
I cheerily trotted along the track until Ian, gestured off it, upwards steeply to Forcan Ridge and we revelled in the boggy world of the true Highlands. This was majestic.
I swear, the colossal quantity of water in the saturated earth defied the laws of physics..
As we contoured around Sgurr n Sgine edging upwards to Bealach Coire Mhalagain, I thought I will have developed webbed feet before we make it.
(One of Ian’s favourite photos)
Up and over for the next 4 hours of trudging through pathless boggy terrain, Ian’s expression relaxed, and confidence beamed. Strange as there was no remote trail at all. Here was where he finally realised there was no point beating yourself up if you cannot find the path, just make your own way in the right direction. Enlightenment & heightened enjoyment personified.
My lost boy is finally found!
At the spectacular pass, one of highest on the trail, with views of the Forcan Ridge, and monros -Sgurr na Sgine and Sgurr na Forcan we had not one, but two surprises – another human, the first one we had met whilst walking (others were at the bothies & tourists at Glenfinnan) & some snow – yay.
Whilst I ran for cool down, back massage in the snow, Ian grabbed her to take a photo, which she reluctantly did and then rapidly disappeared, leaving Ian’s long-awaited desire for a human conversation blowing away in the wind.
Walking with wet feet was sufferable but sitting with them rapidly freezing was less so. Our well-earned break was short lived.
My paws are built for Highlands, whereas shoe choice is a bit of dilemma for Ian – go with trail shoes or high-sided fully sealed waterproof boots? – You can try waterproof boots, plastic bags, gaiters, remove shoes & socks for river crossings, but believe me, on the Trail, your feet will still get soaked!
Ian went for trail shoes (Inov8) – at least they let the water run out (especially with the holes in his) and dry quickly. Several quick drying socks are a must. A dry pair to change into at the end of a day – oh, looking at Ian’s expression, a pure luxury.
We tackled a line of stones along a trail of sorts amongst them before gasping at the gorgeous views below.
With me zooming ahead along the ridge to get a wider view, Ian, halted me in my tracks, yelling ‘por alla’ and his hand gesturing down into the swampy nirvana.
Can you spot me?
Thankful to robust knees, we descended like two kids gleefully running for ice-cream, to follow the river, Allt Undalain, menacingly growing, expanding, gathering pace, knowing that we’ll have to cross at some point.
When joining another swelling river at the foot of the glen, Ian’s eagerness to cross was pushed into action and we ventured gingerly across.
More ‘Zen’ tips for river crossing:
Check flow by throwing a stick in,
Always know your entry and exit point, away from steep banks, before getting in.
Undo backpack waist strap.
Consider taking one arm out - if you fall your heavy backpack will not force you down under the water but can be easily be ditched or used as a buoyancy aide.
Keep your footwear on – better grip than bare feet plus it avoids an injury on the rocks.
Wade (don’t jump) in
Use poles/sticks to test depth ahead.
Cross, facing up stream, and side-step across, bracing yourself using your stronger upper leg muscles against the river attempting to take your legs away.
Slowly cross with small steps. Never cross your feet over.
Watch out and avoid rapids, white water, forest furniture – branches, tree trunks
Which is all great when the river is knee height to Ian, but not so fab for little, short me.
I had to do the ‘hero-swim’ – always best naked!
“The rivers flow not past, but through us. Thrilling, tingling, vibrating every fibre and cell of the substance of our bodies, making them glide and sing” John Muir
“Zen, perfect doggy-paddle!”
At least I wouldn’t need a jet powered cold water hosing down.
Final river crossing tip – If it’s fast moving and deep, do not cross and either wait until the level drops or look to cross upstream where there’s usually less water, or dare I say it, hope for a swinging suspension bridge!
An easy trail led to civilisation - Shiel Bridge and Fish Trail Lodge – Yay, we picked up our first posted packets of goodies (one each), a private room and a pub meal with a soft carpet to sprawl out on and dream of more of the same, ticking off my wishes.
Fish Tail Lodge
zzz