Author Topic: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report  (Read 17833 times)

mike knipe

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TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« on: 00:44:20, 24/05/08 »
The walk maybe didn't start too well. For starters, me and a chap called Humphrey upset the bar staff the night before by asking for a drink at closing time.
The same staff were on duty at breakfast with faces like smacked a*****s and made sure that we didnt sit together.
Then one of my walking poles fell apart at the hotel entrance and I very nearly strangled myself with my neck decorations (map case, camera, mug on a line (for dipping in burns))....., So I had to buy another pole. And yet another one to match it. Luckily there's a very good shop at Dornie which sells outdoor kit.

Then I went to the start - the very impressive, but fairly new Eileen Donan castle (The royal navy battered the original one down during a spat with some Jacobites) 

They wouldnt let me in.   A Belgian film company was making a whisky advert and had a couple of dozen almost dressed "hunks" in just kilts and make-up all lined up like a scene from Up The Khyber.  I was much too inhibited to take a pic, though, so you'll just have to believe what I'm saying.

On with the walking.

I set off along the shore at Dornie and soon caught up with a group of three Glaswegians - Margaret, dave and another chap who's name escapes me - And off we all went up Glennan (I think this is what its called as the river in it is the River Glennan, innit?)

This climbs fairly gently but rockily to a bealach and then a path plunges off down the other side into Glen Elchaig - where a local offerred us a cup of tea.

After a brew, we all trotted off up the Glen and I turned off to cross a footbridge on a path which leads up to the Falls of Glomach.

This is a very scary place to be with a heavy pack on.  The path is perched on the edge of an enormous drop and has one or two easy (but not a place to make a mistake) scrambly bits.  I did wonder who Glomach was and how many timesd he'd fallen off......(!)

Having worried my way up this beetling gorge, I decide that it was time  to put an end to the days adventures and, on the first bit of dry ground, I put up the tent and settled in.

A couple of danish Challengers passed by and another one camped just downstream (turned out to be Humphrey) The Glaswegians and a few other small parties continued along to Iron Lodge.

Chicken Curry for tea.

12 miles and 2100 feet of uphilliness in fab, sunny, but fairly cool weather.
« Last Edit: 02:08:23, 24/05/08 by mike knipe »
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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darksky

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #1 on: 01:23:12, 24/05/08 »
Hey mike glad your back.., and excellent trip report, some great photos pal..,The photo of your tent next to that stream wild camping looks so awsome.., I was just thinking about you actually as i was on the go4a,walk web site and who's name did i see showing off some of your photos..,Anyway pal glad to have you back   O0  :crazy2:
'''get out there and experience as much as you can its beautiful and have yourself alotta fun doing it'''

mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #2 on: 01:56:29, 24/05/08 »
There's more..... (another twelve days - it might take me a while)

day 2. Sometime during the night the hillfog had rolled in and I got up in a world of grey and green. I went to talk to Humphrey who was camping fifty metres away but as we were on opposite sides of the stream, the communication was less than perfect. In fact we couldn't hear a word we said - so we just agreed with each other for a while, then I packed up and left , after scoffing some porridge and honey.

I basically followed the stream over the watershed where I discovered a couple of Challengers (Willie and Violet) packing up their stuff. I blew my whistle at them and waved but they looked in the opposite direction (aparently they thought it was an unusual bird call)..  We did meet later and walked down to Alltbeithe Youth Hostel.  John Manning who used to be deputy editor of TGO manazine turned up with his partner Stephanie and we all had a brew at the hostel - joined later by the warden who professed a desire to have a go at the Challenge.

I walked down Glen Affric with  Ex Deputy dawg John and his lass and he pointed out an eagle (which I couldnt see) - plus frogs, cuckoos, lizards and lots of other stuff.  They'd done the Five Sisters of Glenshiel ridge but were now feeling a bit fragged so were staying low out of the hillfog. Nevertheless - I decided to camp at what we christened "Lovely Poo Bridge" - and they carried on a bit further.

(The name comes from the fact that there's a public toilet there and instead of having a sneaky and possibly scratchy wild poo, you can have a lovely one.

Un fortunately  it took me quite a while to find a bit of grass big enough for my tent - but eventually got aone next to an otter observation spot (didnt observe any otters)

Beef stew and dumplings for tea.

16 Miles (now totalling 28 miles) and 750 feet of upness.

I enjoyed an undisturbed night, except for the fact that it chucked it down....
« Last Edit: 10:29:15, 24/05/08 by mike knipe »
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #3 on: 11:24:04, 24/05/08 »
Onwards and upwards - or , rather, acrosswards....

I was just packing the kit up when spits of rain started hitting the tent. By the time I'd packed it, it was wet through.

This days's walking could have been better. Most of it was on forest roads on the West shore of Loch an Beinn Mheadhoin and , basically, it threw it down for about three hours.

I emerged from the rain forest near Guisachan and stopped for a brew, somehow managing to frighten a boisterous german shepherd dog  being almost restrained by a little under-strength lassie and her , apparently socially incompetent minder - who warned me that the dog would bite me. It wouldnt have done - you can usually tell these things. It was just that I had a low and slightly threatening profile, sitting by a little burn like an evil little elf (probably).

A short distance further on, I discovered the hotel at Tommich. Just emerging were John and Stephanie who told me about the bacon butties they'd just had. So I went in for one, and, maybe a sweet sherry.... (ahem... koff).

Anyway, as the lunchtime progressed, various other challengers arrived - notably Willie and Vi and, most notably Dennis Pigeon - a true hillwalking Scot who doesnt mind the odd snifter. So odd snifters flowed a bit.

Ron from Walsall (veteran Challenger and general hillwalking legend) arrived and a few more snifters were ..er... sniffed.....

Four hours later, I decided that it was time to proceed to Cannich. On the way I rang TGO control to explain that I wasnt lost or injured or anything, and rang home and cheered them up as well.......

At cannich there were several challengers already camping and...er... some snifters were shared...  Dennis arrived not too far behind.

So there were about a dozen of us in the pub at cannich.

Now, I wont name names, but it would seem that the pub at Cannich don't quite get it.... I went in and told them that instead of eight for dinner as booked by Bernie (another veteran and TGO vetter) there would be ten. (There was another group of three or four). Barman/proprieter/husband of the chef says that this is a "smack in the mooth" and had a right old whinge, but still allowing four other late comers to have tables. This is a pub, though with pub grub, which is just about OK as it happens, but nothing really special. Its not the sort of place where you'd normally have to book - I wouldnt have thought (But how would I know - Ive never been in a pub before innit?)

Anyway, it turns out that Margaret (remember from day 1) knows the chef/proprieter/wife of the unwelcoming bar person - and informs her that she should sort out that husband of hers as he has a face like a smacked erse (she's from Glasgow) and we all proceed to offer advice on how to attract custom and not to allow to it leech off to more friendly places - er- like Tommich for instance. Meanwhile - he's collecting glasses and trying to earwig the conversation. I bet he got more than an earwigging that night. Probably slept with the dog....  (Cheered me up anyway!)

A rather fuzzy pic of the gathering appears below. Something seems to have happened to my barely adequate photography skills. I think there seemed to be some geothermic instability going on or something.

Slept very well that night but was a bit shaky in the morning....

14 miles (42 so far) and 750 feet of climbing
« Last Edit: 11:54:11, 26/05/08 by mike knipe »
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #4 on: 12:00:21, 24/05/08 »
Next day was a bit of a slog. The first challenge was the seven or so miles of walking along the main road - allbeit without much traffic.
I intended to bag Carn nam Bad -a  little Marilyn just North of the road and I'd designed a loop in the route to include this.  Halfway up the road it occurred to me that I could bag it from the road and leave my pack somewhere to make it easier.  It was foggy on the tops and the hills around there turned out to be very heathery and rough.

So I left the road and after a mile or so, stashed my pack in some bracken and floated off to bag the Bad one.  It was, indeed , very very heathery and rough and I had to acually navigate with a compass (shock, horror!) to find the thing.

More road walking followed until I could turn off onto forest tracks. These are signposted and waymarked walks which lead all the way to Drumnadrochit.

Somewhere along the way the sun came out.  I met quite a bunch of other Challengers, some of whom were coasting, and some were struggling quite badly. One poor lass had developed a bad cold and was in obvious trouble (she did finish, though, bless her...its all in the mind!)  Some peeps are just a bit tougher than others, I suspect.

I spent the night in the Loch Ness backpackers hostel with some Great Glen Way walkers.  One was the Scottish all-comers snoring champion for 2006 - 8 and another was a windypops expert.

Had a nice scoff at a local pub

21 Miles today (I think we're up to 63 now) and 2600 feet of ascent.  I was having some foot problems just here - my left foot felt like it had a ball-bearing near the ball of the foot.  I did some heroic and stoic hobbling around Drumnadrochit and bought lots of food. 
« Last Edit: 11:39:11, 26/05/08 by mike knipe »
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #5 on: 12:42:37, 24/05/08 »
Another day, another hangover....

Today's job was to get on Mr Menzies ferry to Inverfarigaig. This involved a 3km walk along the main road and a  long wait was there were around 35 chalengers wanting to cross and only space on the boat for 12.

The journey is worth waiting for, though and a bargain at just £5. I was on the last boat that morning and we landed at 10:30 am at a ruined pier.

Some more road walking followed as far as Errogie (only a few cars, though), then I went through the Farraline estate and climbed over the rough heather moorland to Dunmaglass Lodge where I chatted to a gardner for a short while before stopping for a brew. Dunmaglass Lodge is nothing less than a palace and is just one of several such places in the Monadhliath mountains. There seems to be quite a lot of spare dosh sloshing around these hills.

I then climbed into the main hills, stopping at a small hut to be treated to a couple of brews of strong and sweet turkish-style coffee from Humphrey who seemed to have taken up residence. Humph has a certain style and was busy scoffing sirloin steak sandwhiches (!) causing quite a bit of smoke.

I was getting quite tired by this time, but determined to cross the ridge and get as far as the next lodge - which Humphrey predicted would take me till half past nine. he would have been right, but I gave up at the foot of the Allt Calder - a very beautiful spot in Strathdearn - a wild campers paradise.

Feet not happy!

17 miles (80 so far) and 2850 feet of ascent

Phew....
« Last Edit: 11:40:25, 26/05/08 by mike knipe »
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #6 on: 16:13:56, 24/05/08 »
The morning of day 6 was a dramatic mix of frost, sunshine and clinging mist. - and lots of traffic- apparently off up the glen to do some drilling.

I walked down Strathdearn in a happy kind of mood despute the lump in my foot.

Just by Coignascallan I crossed the river and climbed a track into the hills.  Hidden away in a fold I found a very posh bothy indeed. It was like a cricket pavilion and inside there was a wood burning stove and piles of logs, big, fat church candles and (wait for it) - a barbeque with a propane gas supply.

I was so taken by all this, I continued along the track which goes much further than is shown on the map - and competely went the wrong way - putting me about a mile off route.  Some hard work through the peat hags put me right and I crossed the ridge into the valley of the River Dulnain - a remote and very beautiful strip of green in all the brown hills.

I basically followed this downstream till I got to the Red Bothy - where there were three tents. A bit further on, I came to the Burma road which leads to Aviemore. It was quite late and I decided to rest my foot and do a bit of replanning. The next day was planned for  only 8 miles, so I could comfortably stay 4 or 5 miles short of Aviemore and have a lunchtime session there.

So I rang Challenge control and told them what I intended to do and Mrs Grumpy who was on duty at the time advised me about a spot to camp and to pad my tootsies. (She's not grumpy at all by the way - in fact she's very nice and helpful and knows what she's talking about. She's married to Mr Grumpy who isnt grumpy either...  Mr Grumpy knows things like the ten digit grid reference for the bakery in Ballater.... (I can tell that you're impressed)

I then rang home and spoke to my wife's Aunty Vera who was visiting ---- and thereby set off family alarm bells that I was behind time and had probably been captured by aliens  and being held to ransom for the sum of eight million zorgan glockies and a picture of Kylie Minogue in  a bra.

I found the camping spot, washed my socks and undies in the beck ...er...burn... by beating them on a rock unitl they squeaked - and settled down to a supper of veg soup supplemented by smash and oatcakes - two slightly suspiciously off bacon rolls and my fruit cake and a packet of custard...(and 25 cl of very cheap scotch)

Lovely night.... if a bit frosty....

14 miles (94 miles) and 2100 feet of ascent
« Last Edit: 11:43:28, 26/05/08 by mike knipe »
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #7 on: 17:08:06, 24/05/08 »
A breakfast of fish pate and oatcakes put me on the Burma road proper. Ive no idea why its got this name. 
At the summit there's a memorial to the late head keeper Alasdair Polson ("A better friend had no man" says the insciption - a better memorial had no man, I think). I left the rucksack by the summit cairn and strolled off to bag the Corbett Geal Charn Mor which sports a fantastic view of the snow streaked Cairngorm Mountains
Various mountain bikers were met struggling their way up the other side and I was soon in the fleshpots of Aviemore, where I briefly met Bob from Bristol.
I bought lots more scoff and another bottle of scotch and somehow set off the store alarm on the way out. I little erk jumped out from somewhere and invited me to "step back into the store, Sir"  He looked in my shopping bag but couldnt spot anything amiss (cos there wassnt anything!) So he let me go. Alarms went off again and I was invited back again (Sir). This time  a supervisor joined in. She eyed my rucksack and I could sense the desire to explore its contents, and then the realisation that this might take a while.....  "On yer way" she barks - the inference being that Ive got away with it this time..... I retire to the Bridge Inn. Tesco's alarms still sounding. At the Bridge, Bob turns up but sits outside in the sun and I have a fab salmon and salad and several pints of amber nectar.
I then leave for Glen More, following the paths through the forest, over the Cairngorm Club footbridge, through Piccadilly (3 paths junctions - this is the path to the Lairig Ghru - and on to Loch Morlich and the campsite. Its a pleasan stroll through Scots Pines. I meet several challengers and there's a few camping at select spots.  The FC campsite peeps are friendly and welcoming and there's hot showers and sock washing.....

18 miles ( up to 112 miles now) and 1900 feet of height gain.... and a Corbett and I'm back on schedule
« Last Edit: 11:44:49, 26/05/08 by mike knipe »
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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darksky

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #8 on: 21:23:39, 24/05/08 »
Fantastic read mike..,Cheeky bar-stewards at Tescos eh?..,so far it sounds like a real good time, and that posh bothy sounds like home from home, Well done pal i mean it,.....waiting with anticipation for the next chapter..... O0
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pete

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #9 on: 22:20:25, 24/05/08 »
Yeah,a great read and photos to match,afraid the old legs are to knackered nowadays to tackle anything like this but I can always dream
It must be tea time by now

mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #10 on: 10:43:18, 25/05/08 »
Thanks for the feedback D/S and Pete (wherever you post 'em!)..... just building up to the bit about crossing the Cairngorms  (or actually, walking around the Cairngorms...).... As for Tesco's, and possibly the bar staff at a couple of hotels, one day they'll maybe get the idea that when they get snotty, there's an increasing chance that somebody might just write about it on this here interwebby thingy - and when that penny drops there could be improvements in the way they deal with customers  - even stinky old tramps covered in what could just be peat....  ::) (or maybe its me!?). My money may be damp but they should still want it, innit?

Incidentally, I think I found the culprit that set the alarms off - a little cardboard doofer hidden away in a bum bag that I bought a few days before I started the walk..... :-[
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mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #11 on: 11:48:12, 25/05/08 »
Suddenly Southwards.....

I had a really nice full Scottish breakfast at the little cafe at Glenmore. This cafe has a squirrellarium where you can watch the local red squirrels, plus all kinds of small birds feeding  whilst you scoff your breakkies.  A fine place, good value, friendly staff (see?  it can be done!)

This was in the company of Bob from Bristol who had started the TGO by walking in from Cape Wrath(!) Needless to say that by this time he was really coasting and had a fine tan.

After breakfast, we set off along the track past the reindeer centre and Glenmore Lodge   (where you go for your winter skills courses) and the green lochan, turning east then south past the site of Bynack stables (a fine wild camping spot) and over the shoulder of Bynack More.  Its a bit of a slog, up over 750 metres, but the views improve with distance.  Eventually we came to the Fords of Avon.
There's a little shelter by the Fords because they can get a bit dangerous and there's always a chance that you might have to wait a day (or more!) for the waters to recede enough to make a crossing.

Today, the water levels weren't too bad and Bob hopped into the middle on rocks and then botrrowed my walking poles to make a tactical hop onto a slippery bouler. I opted for a shin-deep paddle in sandals.  It was a bit cold!  Lee turned up a couple of minutes later and, basically, sploshed across.

We were now close to the site where Bob had been rescued by helicopter some years earlier after breaking an ankle up in the mountains in winter conditions.

We continued happily to the bealch at lairig an laoigh where an immense prospect south opened up.  This is a fab walk. It gets eleven out of ten.

After yet more plodding we finally arrived at the scots pine woodland at Derry Lodge - an area which will potentially hold hundreds of wild campers, but iis unfortunately developing a bit of a reputation for wild poo.....

But its a beautiful spot and was already occupied by various wild campers, including some TGO challengers. More arrived during the evening. This is the jumping-off spot for the fleshpots of Braemar - half a dozen easy miles East.
I decided to just shop and, maybe have a drink in Braemar and then push on to Callater for reasons which may well become more obvious in the next bit....

16 miles (128 so far) and 2300 feet of ascent
« Last Edit: 11:30:27, 26/05/08 by mike knipe »
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #12 on: 12:58:31, 25/05/08 »
I left Derry Lodge in the company of John and Stephanie once more.

After about a mile Gina McNeish came up the track towards us and said that we might want to comb our hair (!) as cameron McNeish was on his way with a video camera. This was for a documentary which was being made about the Challenge.
We soon spotted Cameron with his little camera and stopped for a chat (cameron was John's ex-boss)

After that interlude we went a bit wrong for a while by taking the wrong track, but recovered and passed into the grounds of Mar Lodge.  Mar Lodge is a late 19th century shooting lodge now owned by the Scottish National Trust. Its very plush.  On the way out of the grounds, the Ranger stopped for a chat and said that next year they'd quite like to mark the TGO's 30th anniversary with some sort of event, such as a ceilidh, and that they'd allow camping on the lawns (!)

We then joined the road into Braemar. There's not much alternative to this. We passed the time by poking an ants nest with a violet and watching it turn pink as the ants squirted formic acid at it.

A bit of shopping, a quick nosh and some lightweight boozing in Braemar saw me on the road South towards Glenshee. After a few miles of this, I turned off on to a rough track that goes to Lochcallater Lodge, passing a couple of groups of sulky DofE kids on the way.

Lochcallater Lodge has an MBA bothy and Stan and Bill's lodge.  Stan and Bill work as estate ghillies (I believe) and are legends in their own lunchtimes and allow camping around the lodge, provide a few beds or bits of floor and also do a fine line in entertainment - usually involving quantities of various whiskies.  About a dozen of us, plus a couple of fishermen and a pet dog enjoyed an evening of scotch tasting and silly songs.

Somebody fell off a stool......

I played paper and comb (in the musicman round song.)

15 miles (now up to 143) and 750 feet of uphill - and now a few miles ahead of schedule, really meaning that I'd managed to chop a lump off a hard following day....
« Last Edit: 11:31:39, 26/05/08 by mike knipe »
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #13 on: 13:33:34, 25/05/08 »
Stan and Bill provided bacon butties and I set off up the path leading to Lochnagar, being overtaken on the way by some younger, fitter, more good looking .....(grrrrrr)  anyway - the path climbs steadily and the contours around cairn an-t saigairt-Mor (Cairn Taggart) - and then heads South over Fafernie (1000m) and on to  Cairn Bannoch (1012m) where I was joined by Dave.
Me and dave then walked on to Broad Cairn (998m) after which he headed off for the relative warmth of Loch Muick (we'd had the odd light snowshower today)
I went off to Sandy Hillock and walked the high edge overlooking the head of Glen Clova, bagging heathery Ferrowie (801m) on the way and getting entangled with some complicated navigation involving peat haggy cols to join the upper waters of Unich Water, where I put the tent up on the flatest bit of grass I could find.
I caught two little fishes in my mug whilst collecting watre for my brew. I put them back as I hadn't brought any oven chips and I'd not had the foresight to pack salt and vinegar.

13 Miles (156) and 3000 feet of ascent  -- and two Munros for a change. (Note that this is a low-level route!)
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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mike knipe

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Re: TGO Challenge 2008 trip report
« Reply #14 on: 14:24:21, 25/05/08 »
Cor blimey, Mum, it weren't half cold last night. My watch was showing minus four degrees centigrade in the tent.
This had some advantages, though because any peaty hags were well frozen and very easy to pass over.
I crossed a little col to shortcut a bend in the River Unich and then followed it as far as the Falls of Damff.
There, I dumped the rucksack and wandered off to bag Hunt Hill - a rocky/heathery Graham/Marilyn.
After this little episode I followed the path down to the Falls of Unich where I brewed up and generally sat about for quite a while.
Tracks took me alongside Loch lee to Invermark and then a path over a low col to Tarfside.
In Tarfside, some ladies connected to the TGO run St Drostan's Lodge which provides beds, tea, beer , bacon butties and baked spuds.  Ladies from The Retreat, a museum/cafe a mile down the road also do a carry out service for those camping on tarfside's village field. There are dark rumours of discreet drinking dens as well, but I wouldnt know anything at all about that.
As aranged, daughter Becky arrived withher boyfriend and beer/wine, trail scoff (cornish pasty mainly) and a big breakfast. I mean a BIG breakfast They also temporarily transported me to Edzell where we visited The Tuck Inn - a fine eatery  which is very popular with Challengers. It would be off my route, though.
Afterwards we retired to the tent I'd provided and drank beer and wine  and generally had a laugh.
I bumped into Humphrey at about half past two as he was obviously returning from some mission or other. He seemed to have developed a slight lilt or sway in his walk. Could be a problem, that. Probably high blood pressure, I shouldn't wonder.

13 miles (169 miles) and 1100 feet of climbing.
« Last Edit: 11:33:23, 26/05/08 by mike knipe »
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles

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