A banging weather forecast had me geared up for a big day, setting out straight from Brecon to tackle Pen y Fan from the north.
The walk to Cwm Gwdi car park wasn’t particularly scenic but still rather lovely in the morning light, following a stream to steadily ascend along country lanes. There are a few routes from there up onto Cefn Cwm Llywch, but I got the impression it didn’t really matter which, as long as you aim for the highest bit. Approaching Pen y Fan from this side certainly is a quieter route. There were just two cars in the car park and I didn’t see another soul until I got to the very top.
Looking back down towards Cwm Gwdi car park, Brecon town in the distance. I was in just a t-shirt for the sweaty walk up to Cefn Cwm Llywch, but that soon changed once on the exposed ridge. Wrapped up warm and cocooned in cloud, with a strong, bitterly cold wind coming in from the west, it was an amazing and atmospheric walk along the ridge. A thick blanket of cloud over the peaks meant I couldn’t see Pen y Fan itself.
Part way up my belly began complaining, so I elegantly stuffed some flapjack through the small gap in my coat and carried on.
A very blustery Cefn Cwm Llywch. Eventually Pen y Fan loomed out of the mist and suddenly I was at the top, with
other people. There was no view to speak of and only a handful of fellow hikers, though a steady stream seemed to be coming up the Storey Arms route – as I gather is the norm.
Pen y FanI hung a left and followed Craig Cwm Sere down and up to Cribyn, by which point the cloud had lifted and the sun appeared. Incredible views all around! I happily sat watching two dogs (who had just met) play energetically just metres from the sheer drop.
Amazing views from Cribyn, looking back at Pen y Fan......and onwards to Fan y Big (great, great name)Down and up again to Fan y Big (hur), with more amazing views and sunshine poking through. Sitting there, eating a sandwich and enjoying the sunshine, I decided to extend the route I’d planned. Rather than head back along Cefn Cyff, why not carry on round the next ridge and go back via Rhiw Bwlch y Ddwyallt? A quick calculation suggested it’d be tight, but that I’d definitely be back in relative civilisation by sunset.
It was a great choice. Craig Cwarelli in particular was such a lovely trail, beautiful views back to Pen y Fan et al on the left and Peak District-esque underfoot. I was skipping along in beautiful afternoon sunlight singing to myself like a loon.
L-R: Pen y Fan, Cribyn and Fan y BigCraig CwarelliOnce around the ridge and heading down towards civilisation, the path became pretty boggy and unclear in places. So unclear after Pen y Bryn in fact that I managed to end up on the wrong fork, leading down towards Pencelli. Ultimately this added on a mile or two to the route back to Brecon. But happily, Pencelli was a lovely little place, with a bridge over the canal and some moored canal boats.
After a frustrating half hour in the fading light, scuppered by an overgrown path and an electric fence across a right-of-way (
), I got onto the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal path. Some lovely reflections in the water at that time of day. I followed the canal all the way back to Brecon and arrived at 5pm, just as the light was at its last. Another amazing day, a beast for me at just under 19 miles.
Who says Wales has lots of sheep?The Monmouthshire and Brecon CanalEveryone I met in Wales was so friendly and the scenery was superb. I’ll definitely be back!