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Regions - Trip reports, destination advice, recommended routes, etc. => Scotland => Topic started by: troy on 11:19:07, 11/12/11

Title: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: troy on 11:19:07, 11/12/11
After a drive through blizzards, then under clear skies lit up by a full moon, I finally arrived at the cairngorms to be greeted by a traffic jam. Not a traffic jam as southerners experience around London on the largest toll free car park in Europe but more of a wait for the hard working park staff to clear the roads. Did not have to wait long before our line of cars slide and slided up the steep road leaving a few stragglers along the way until we all parked in a nice long line beside the ski centre underneath the glow of sunrise with the bright moon hovering over Aviemore, both it and the sun starting to cast the grey oranges over the skies cloud.
 
Next is the enjoyable spectacle of every one getting ready for their respective activities, most being the climbers with sacks full of spikes, rope and assortment of other things? It is the looks on their faces that get me, from the all out prettified and excited being led by the experienced stern guides to the benign twosomes who are just out on a lads or lassies trip onto the crags. Given the severity of the weather around these mountains in winter, I guess I always end up wishing as I did today I headed up the track to the top restaurant. That I don’t hear on the 6 o’clock news that night that one of these people perhaps died on the mountain that day – it happened once before and it wasn’t nice! So if you ever find yourself lucky enough to venture into this wonder land – makes sure you know what the hell you’re doing first, or have someone who does.
 
The trip today was up to the top restaurant via the well-compacted track, and then follows the ridge along over Cairn Gorm summit, Stob coire an t-Sneachda and Cairn Lochan before descending down the Miadan ridge, back to the car park. All in all about 7 miles I guess with about 700m climbing.
 
Using the compacted wide track to get upto the first Munros, could be seen as a sort of cheat, but as normal at the beginning of the snow season, the only tracks that are really compacted are those to the t-Sneachda corrie where most climbers go. Half way up this track, a nice path heads off to, or up the Fiacaill a Choire Chais ridge. But it was still covered in thick snow when I passed it. I had planned to get to the top to see the sunrise, but due to the access road being closed as the workers cleared it I only got to see the oranges and bright radiant colours descend upon corries and the monoaliaths as I  clambered up within the confines of coire cas. Even so, it was still a great show to see from my elevated position.
 
As I got to the top restaurant, these sunrise colors were fading slightly but were still made the mountains below me sparkle under their coverings of snow. What was amazing was the amount of workers up here who had obviously been here for quite awhile and in nearer -9 temperatures or less from the brisk wind – gotta be thankful for them and the poles they installed which lined the path upto cairn gorm summit or else I wouldn’t of know today where it was.
 
You’d think I must be mad to want to stand upon cairn gorm which only the day before was experiencing 150 mile winds, thankfully today these winds were a lot less. So much so that I could quite comfortably stand on the shelter side of the weather station while texting my wife to say all was OK, while waiting for the thick mist that covered the scene of the plateau before me lifted. It did lift after about 20 minutes; the same time it took me to text (still can’t get to grips with this stuff).
 
The scene that opened up before me of near enough 360 degrees is just indescribable as befits the awe and wonder that I felt. Many a time I have stood here and never seen the cairngorms fully, but today I did. Today I could look out around me over miles and miles of peaks and ridges as clouds swirled and danced amidst ridges and peaks over deep snow that covered these hills as a dustsheet would an old antique sports car. I.e. you cannot see the detail but just enough of its graceful curves and sensual folds to leave you tantalizing for more.
 
Today I was here alone, and alone I felt amidst the plateaus illusion of endless space, her size and bottomless beauty. My face glowed red from the cold wind, my face felt cold and numb from the cold wind and my body was pushed and shoved by the cold wind, but quite frankly there was nowhere else I’d rather be at that time then atop these mountains of age and history.
 
Alas, all things must end and it soon came to the time when I clambered down over ice-covered rocks towards the t-Sneachda ridge where I could see two people having already done their climb start back towards the Fiacaill a Choire Chais ridge. It always amazes me how the view of this plateau changes from one vantage point to another. You’d think that after awhile it would all look the same especially under a coating of snow, but thankfully it is not like that helped greatly by the sun as its frail light shone through the clouds to my east . This made those clouds beyond Ben macdui a nice orange glow making its peak and those above Glen Avon stand out much more than, if the cloud had been as white as the hills. Occasionally the sun would appear and dash the dark cliffs of the t-Sneachda slopes with a tone of faded orange plus the high clouds that spread above further mountains like a colourful fan – great for photos giving the impression of leading the eye to the centre.
 
By the time I got to the end of the ridge, the sun had come out of its hiding place fully covering most of the mountains in my view with a sharp light that reflected off of all their curves and sways of movement which did make some of them look more like waves of a sea rather than the intersection of multiple ridges and peaks. Thinking back now, I do not remember looking for any particular peaks in the distance, like Ben alder only thinking how great it was to be there. I know the forecast had only stated a 40 % chance of clear Munros and had not really expected to see the extent to which was portrayed in front of me. It could have quite readily been different but I thought after numerous times when all I had seen is thick cloud over this plateau, I thought perseverance had at last paid off and yet again left the plateau by the easy slope of the Miadan ridge a happy man for once.
 
(http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/1)

the traffic jam

(http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/2)
looking down onto ski centre

(http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/3)
taken just to the left of the top restourant
 
(http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/4)

the top restourant (it ptoabably has got a proper name - I just don't know it. apparently they are out of tennets and only have salt and vinager left - got plenty of baby cham.
(http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/5)
me by the weather station taken by the grey man who'ed wonder over here due to their being a lack of visitor to macdui - he was quite annoyed when instead of running off, I merely shoved the camera at him!
 
(http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/6)
looking at fiacaill ridge
(http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/7)
photo of reverse view from that above
(http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/8)
looking back along the ridge to cairn gorm

(http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/9)
alien?
(http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/10)
looking towards monaliaths

Posted these pans in another thred but just thought they'ed be handy being here as well
 
http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web components/cairn1012/pan from cairn gorm summit.jpg (http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/pan%20from%20cairn%20gorm%20summit.jpg) - from loch avon to the climbing crags
 
http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web components/cairn1012/pan from cairn lochan.jpg (http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/pan%20from%20cairn%20lochan.jpg) - from ben macdui to end of lairig ghru
 
http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web components/cairn1012/pan frommiadan creag towards loch morlich.jpg (http://www.mtn-m.co.uk/web%20components/cairn1012/pan%20frommiadan%20creag%20towards%20loch%20morlich.jpg) - overlooking loch morlich to entrence to climbing crags

 
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: amnesiacjimmy on 12:19:59, 11/12/11
Phew thos e pics higher up looking out over the masses of mountains are staggering! Thanks for posting these. Snow make smountains even more photogenic don t it! Did you do the whole walk without gloves too?  O0   Keep em comin!
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: joester on 12:29:16, 11/12/11
Fantastic!
 
I'm fond of a 'sensual fold' or two myself.
 
More of this, please!
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: redeye on 14:50:53, 11/12/11
Brilliant  O0 we had a look round that area a couple of years back. Had a short walk from the ski lift centre in similar snowy weather. a great memory jerker O0
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: Catbells on 16:15:56, 11/12/11
Am loving the last photo  O0 O0
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: angry climber on 17:35:20, 11/12/11
Fantastic pics and a well written report. You make me extremely jealous. I was working the last two weekends so I have not been able to enjoy any of the snow yet. You are very lucky. Thanks for sharing this and stirring up some fantastic memories.

Thanks Graeme.
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: susiej on 18:00:14, 11/12/11
Wow, thanks for that Troy, really inspirational! great pics and lovely report  O0
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: Alex Quinn on 18:04:24, 11/12/11
Excellent TR and photographs O0

Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: Fleegle on 18:26:13, 11/12/11
Wow. :coolsmiley:
 
Great photos and fantastic TR.     O0
 
Wish I was there.
 
BTW, the restaurant is called the Ptarmigan. after the bird which is supposed to frequent the Cairngorms. I believe it is just a few feet lower than the Snowdon Cafe, hence why they can't call it Britains highest.
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: Tryfan75 on 21:11:13, 11/12/11
Superbly magnificent.  TR's from your good-self have become a forum highlight for me Troy....thankyou.
 
Matt O0
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: Mayaculpa on 21:57:48, 11/12/11
Great report Troy, fantastic pics  O0 O0 O0

I've got a week booked in February can't wait !
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: Sooz214 on 22:27:56, 11/12/11
Great TR and photos - love the shots of the weather station and frosted ski lift  - was there earlier this year and it was very cold and icy up at the station, saw ptarmigan, just losing their white feathers... and snow buntings - dramatic place and hats off to you going up there when the winds were up to 165mph around the Caingorms, or so they said :o :o
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: Trenchfoot on 00:04:25, 12/12/11
Stunning pics Troy, and a nice TR too - cheers!
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: sunnydale on 07:40:15, 12/12/11
Excellent, thanks for posting  O0
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: Micky on 18:50:05, 12/12/11
Bring on the snow, the weather station looks awesome.  O0
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: troy on 11:30:06, 13/12/11
cheers for the comments and ye 'sensual folds was a good one I guess, could'nt think of anything else seeing as I'd already used 'curves' before it. Well actually I did but this bars open 24 hours and did'nt want the dreaded //censured// remark again - gotta be a good boy this month!
 
If any of ya are thinking of coming up over the 'graceful curves' season and perhaps like along someone oldish but experianced in these hills then most w/e I'm free and willing - one walk I'm thinking of doing again some time is along the three tops you can see in the background on photo four (below the restourant) can be from 12 to 5 miles, or theres always ben macdui of a fine day, thats about 12 miles. Or I believe that the top restourant allows access to out side in winter - so a quick cheat could involve taking the tram up - not sure about that thought as I've always walked up.
 
Or if you want, could just do this walk again. One year I tried over to the western plateau but snow was really deep and did'nt get far - could always hire snow shoes I guess. Plus a bit further afield the walks around morlich are great in the woods or to loch einich from that other loch further over - you know the one with the derelict castle on it. Oh and bynack more is a good hike allowing a great view up the length of loch avon and the outlandish rocks I assochiate with the film 'the lost world'. None of the above hikes involve spikes and axes. Just a two gallon flask of whiskey, plus a tub of cream with warm soft pastry mince pies.
 
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: yorksgal on 13:59:55, 13/12/11
 Excellent TR and pics  O0. No snow in my neck of the woods but oh so looking forward to getting out and about on the hills in the snow  O0 O0
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: stroller52 on 06:31:31, 16/12/11
Excellent TR and some superb photos O0 O0 Would love to be out in the snow but as I get older I'm becoming more wary about driving on snowy/icy roads :-[ ::)
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: ken on 14:36:46, 16/12/11
excellent report and pics I am heading up that way later this month to get hill fit for a week's walking in the gorms in Feb hope the conditions  hold  O0 O0 O0
Title: Re: pure paradise - snow covered tops of cairngorm
Post by: gary m on 16:18:19, 16/12/11
well done a good trip report does look cold