Thanks for your nice comments...I will attempt to complete my trip report..First I have addded to first five or so days of my trip as some parts were missing. Then I will try and post photos separately with descriptions.
This is my trip report on my 3 week trek with Zen, in the Spanish Pyrenees loosely following the GR11 path from Bujaruelo (near Torla) to Espot from May 26th to June 18th 2014.
Disclaimer: This is the first trip report I’ve ever written..so forgive me if I ramble on.. just look at the photos (posted later) or skip to day 6 when I cranked it up!
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“I’m always early & I’m always lucky with the weather!”
Beginning my 3-week Spanish Pyrenees trek in May, maybe, I was pushing my luck. Every guide book advises to start after 15th June, when most of the refugios (manned mountain lodges) open. Snow levels are my major concern, especially as I have little to no alpine trekking experience. Another ‘must have’ the guide books mention. Begs the question: How do you get alpine experience without walking in the mountains? Cue one reason to go, plus, to improve my very suspect map reading skills, which will be tested when the snow covers all the paths. Sometimes you just have to jump into the deep end, or rather deep snow.
For fun I trek with Zen, my dog, who found me 4 years ago wandering lost through second-hand book shops in Mexico City.
I go with trepidation, losing sleep worrying about getting lost, the near vertical descents, slipping into a frozen lake, the afternoon thunderous storms, being stuck by lightning, Zen being attacked by Patous dogs…Am I paranoid?
I have confidence in my stuff, virtually everything’s tried and tested, apart from the trekking shoes - microspikes combo in the snow, as it never snowed on the South Downs last winter. Fitness-wise, I’m not daunted by the 1000metre+ ascents/descents for me or Zen, who’s a mountain goat in disguise.
Day 1: 26th May Brighton to Lescun, France
Ascent - 500m
After 24 hours of travelling from Brighton, me and Zen hop off the bus at the foot of the Pyrenean mountain road to Lescun, France, just as a drizzle set in. Hitching in the rain is tough, with a dog, nigh on impossible, so after 1½ hours meandering up the windy road I strolled into an almost deserted cloud-covered Lescun (893m), hiding its famous photogenic beauty. I wasted no time in brushing up on my Spanish, getting directions to the only campsite, slightly out of town. Unsurprisingly, as darkness drew in we crashed out, relieved to have arrived.
Day 2: May 27th Lescun to Candanchu, Spain
Ascent – 1000m Descent – 600m
I feel lucky today. I had pitched the tent perfectly to get the first rays of sunlight. Warmed us up lovely and dried the tent. My aim is to cross over the French-Spanish border at Col de Pau (1942m) and descend to camp at La Mina (1230m) on the GR11. Confidence is a wonderful thing, when you have it. On my first day, I just haven’t gained it, so when the French walkers I met at Cabane de Bonaris (1688m) advised me against crossing the snowy pass, I lacked the courage to disagree, even though it was only 45 mins away. A downer, though Zen was loving the snow.
All was not lost, after descending, almost to the campsite, the French guys passed me in their car and gave us a lift to the main road, where we caught a bus over the border to Canfranc (1190m). An hour’s walk up the main road and we’re in Candanchu (1545m), a ski resort, without snow or a soul. A bit eerie so I make my way a little along the GR11 and wild-camp. Strangely, I feel at ease, at home, in Spain on the GR11.
Day 3: May 28th Candanchu to Candanchu !
Ascent – 200m Descent – 200m
I begin again, with fresh hopes, only to be dashed once more. It wasn’t the persistent falling rain, rather the rain and snow melt swelling the rivers to a ragging impassable level. Each one being more treacherous. I feared for me and Zen. Do I continue, hoping the next is crossable, or turn back, hoping the previous ones haven’t grown uncrossable? For the second day I chicken out, further denting my confidence. We spend the rest of the day sheltered in a picnic area, marvelling at the rain & the shades of green vegetation clinging to the mountains, whilst listening to the bells of the visiting cows. Annoyingly, I had my first equipment failure – my Trespass rucksack cover was inexcusably wetter on its inside. With numerous cups of hot soup, I contemplate my options for the rest of my three week trek. Little did I know that this would be my one and only rainy day! I did say I am lucky with the weather!
Day 4: May 29th Candanchu to San Nicolas de Bujaruelo
Ascent – 300m Descent – 250m
I awoke to a cloudly rainless sky. I speedily packed and was on the path down to Canfranc with an urgency to escape from this rain-sodden valley. Once in Canfranc I chatted to a coach driver heading in the opposite direction, who reduced my options to one, with the dishearting news: “Los perros no pueden viajar en autobuses o trenes en España, sin una jaula”. ("Dogs are not permitted on trains and buses with out a cage") Zen’s box (I hate the word ‘cage’) was something I couldn’t quite fit in the backpack. Taxi or nothing then! While waiting, I realise the coach driver was the first person I had seen or spoken to for more than 36 hours. I made up for this by having a good old chin-wag about the ski and walking tourists with the taxi driver, Roberto who, for a reasonable price took us to Torla, 1½ hours away. Amazingly, as soon as we left the town brilliant blue sky appeared and accompanied us all the way. Chuffed, at my excellent decision, I vowed never to look back. El Parque nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido here we come. Visiting Torla, originally not on my plan, gave me and Zen the chance of a feed, to stock up on snacks and buy a new rucksack cover. The camping shop guy was full of up to date valuable advice about the paths ahead and sold me a much better map detailing alternative routes…I was determined to find a way across these mountains. I was three days ahead of schedule, so time was on my side.
Torla
With renewed optimism we leave Torla for San Nicolás de Bujaruelo, actually heading back West along the GR11. Reasons being, the refugio at Bujaruelo was first of three places on the GR11 I had posted Zen’s favourite dry food to. Plus, it was reputed to be the best refugio on the whole GR11. It didn’t disappoint. Even though the camping site didn’t officially open until 1st June, we were able to camp, with the added plus of using the refugio’s lovely bathrooms, giving me the opportunity to wander around the beautifully designed 3 story wooden cabaña, with the attic dormitory. Unlike other refugios there are no double or triple bunk beds, but single comfy thick mattresses, discreetly placed affording some privacy, with bedding, pillows and colourful blankets. Alas, dogs are not allowed in refugios so we’ll always be camping, for better or worse.
Ester, the Duty Manager and Rafa, the Nepalese cook were fantastic. The set menu (menu del dia) was four delicious, abundant plates with good quality wine. In my case, 1 litre of wine and ½ litre of water. Proportions just right, don’t you agree?
Day 5: May 30th Day trip: San Nicolás de Bujaruelo - Puerto de Bujaruelo - San Nicolás de Bujaruelo
Ascent - 850m Descent - 850m
Local knowledge is essential on any trek. Refugio staff are experts. Apart from local paths they receive superbly accurate weather forecasts, advising: “five days of blue skies ahead”. With this in mind, and being ahead of schedule I decided to go on a day trip, and climb up to the pass, Puerto de Bujaruelo (2273m), which continues onto Gavarnie in France.
A great learning experience. I got to try out my micro-spikes in the snow, have some fun sliding down the snow and discover the best way to stop myself without an ice axe, all with Zen attached. Sadly, I have as yet, gained the confidence to let him free. Be patient Zen, your freedom will come soon. Also saw lots of marmots, frustrating Zen even more, as he loves a chase.
Most satisfying of all is that for the first time, I managed to complete a planned walk! I rewarded myself with a dip in the river. Brrrrr!
Day 6: May 31st – San Nicolás de Bujaruelo to el Refugio de Góriz
Ascent - 1600m Descent - 800m
Five days in, now, we crank it up, spectacularly heading into Cañón de Ordesa, el Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido
Refugio de Góriz was buzzing, crammed full of 80 odd eagerly excited climbers, prepared for the first clear weather for a month. Me, the only Brit and walker, a little overwhelmed by their sheer madness and equipment, tucked into a huge meal with some Spanish climbers tackling Monte Perdido. Plenty of juicy, spicy salchichas leftover – Lucky Zen. (Remember, he’s from Mexico – spicier the better.)
We camped in the snow nearby, but far enough not to be disturbed by the early risers.
Day7: June 1st Refugio de Góriz to Escuain
Ascent - 800 Descent - 1200
The dream was to visit Breche de Roland at 2800+m. Considering the snow at 2200m was knee deep, with my limited equipment I opted to head East on the GR11. I was on my own – all the climbers went… Up.
”Sólo tienes que seguir las pistas de esquí” (“Just follow the ski tracks”) the manager of the refugio advised. He left out the bit about what to do when inevitably the tracks stopped…