South Ronaldsay Coast 20/09/2019South Ronaldsay has some good sections of coastal path, and it has long been an intention of mine to combine the best of these in a long circular walk.
Route also available free on Viewranger
HEREInformation on Orkney core paths
HERE The weather was perfect, bright sunshine, light winds and not a cloud in the sky, so after throwing a few things into my rucksack, I jumped in the car and drove south. As I crested the brow of a hill, the view opened out before me, all of the mountains of the far north of Scotland on display, like trophies along a shelf - Scaraben, Maiden Pap, Morvern, Ben Griam Beg, Ben Klibreck, Ben Loyal, Ben Hope, Foinaven, Cranstackie, Beinn Spionnaidh, and the Cape Wraqth cliffs beyond. Absolutely outstanding visibility, Foinaven for example was 80 miles away. Enough to make the heart sing!
After driving down to South Ronaldsay over the Churchill Barriers, I parked at Sandwick, about half way down the west coast. My intention was to head east across the island along quiet roads, then traverse along the clifftops in a clockwise direction, finishing back at Sandwick.
Sandwick Bay, Barth Head in the distanceThe road walk east was pleasant enough, even on the main road I was only passed by 5 cars. The road ends at the Stews farm, an intriguing name. An arrow directed me to the north of the farm buildings, but then I made a blunder, missing a short direct route to the clifftop path. Instead I descended northwards, past some cows, joining the coast near sandy Newark Bay. No matter, a pleasant diversion, even though I had to regain the height lost. Not so pleasant was the long wet grass, which wet firstly the bottom of my trousers, then my feet.
Contented CowsThe cliffs here are like a rock garden in early summer, but this late on in the year there were just a few flowers out, Devil’s Bit Scabious, Tormentil and some yellow Hawkweed being the most noticeable.
Primroses on these cliffs earlier in the yearThe cliffs steadily gained in height, and the views to the north in particular were gorgeous, with the wedge shaped island of Copinsay visible in the distance, and a variety of rock formations on display, rock slabs, overhangs, and, in one place, evidence of a big landslide. The going was rather variable, unwelcome wet grass interspersed with springy heather and crowberry; much more pleasant walking.
East coast sea cliffs, the island of Copinsay in the far distanceGorgeous coloursAfter passing the highest point, the path descended past the cliffs at Hesta Head, scene of a First World War tragedy where
two destroyers ran aground in a blizzard, towards the cobble beach at Windwick.
Southwards towards Windwick. Triple topped Scaraben and the cone of Morvern visible on the skylineHesta Head cliffs and Clett of Crura sea stackThe cobble beach at Windwick, with Halcro Head beyondThe Clett of Crura, wedge shaped Copinsay in the distanceThe next section of cliffs are not as high, but make for equally pleasant walking. To regain the shore, I followed an arrow down a burnside path choked with chest high nettles, and damp rushes that were in places higher than me - I was glad to break through to the shore!
The tallest cliffs here are at Halcro Head, not very photogenic from the north, and not very visible from the south! Nearby is a Gloup, a fearsome hole in the ground formed by a collapsed sea cave. A stout barbed wire fence prevented me from getting too close a look at it, but, to be honest, there are better examples in Orkney. The path from here is a delight, descending slowly towards the Tomb of the Eagles, with fine views of the Pentland Firth to the south.
Striking cliffs south of Halcro HeadUp to now, I had not met a soul on the clifftops, but inevitably I did near the tomb, it is a prime tourist attraction. Stopped for lunch of oatcakes and smoked mackerel pate on a bench near the tomb. I made good use of the visitor centre too, tea, from a machine, unfortunately, and a tub of Orkney Ice Cream - raspberry is my favourite. Very pleasant to sit in the sun at a picnic bench taking in the view - but I had to press on.
The entrance to prehistoric Tomb of the Eagles. Note the wheeled trolley to help you slide yourself in!The twin towers of Pentland Skerries lighthouse. The shorter tower is for a foghorn, now decommissioned.Ham Geo. The path turns inland to the visitor centre here; the moors behind the coast beyond are a nature reserve, a breeding ground for Arctic Skuas, and visitors are discouraged.I skipped the southern shore, it is an unremarkable bouldery stumble, and cut across to Burwick on minor roads. There is an underused ferry terminal here, and a bit of a derelict air to the place. I was glad to pass behind some disused concrete sea defence blocks and regain the clifftop path. The tide really rips past the land here, and actually forms rapids at times.
I continued north past the headland at Castle, site of an ancient fortification, and the views to the north unfolded, Barth Head with the hills of Hoy beyond. Rather frustratingly, the farmers have erected fences close to the edge of this deeply indented coastline, which meant that I couldn’t take shortcuts across headlands, sometimes having to walk a few hundred yards instead of 50. Beautiful views of contorted cliffs and sea caves though, so I shouldn’t really grumble.
South past Castle headland to the Pentland FirthSea birds resting on a rock - Shags, I thinkContorted cliffs, Barth Head and the hills of Hoy beyondBarth Head jutting out into the southern approach to Scapa Flow; sea caves in the foreground.After passing Barth Head, which sticks out like the prow of a ship, the path descends over an expanse of heather moorland, with views ahead of the red sandstone cliffs beyond Sandwick, my starting point. When I was here
last October, the seals had pupped, and the inaccessible beaches were full of them, the air full of their cries, but I was too early this year.
The view north from just beyond Barth Head. Red sandstone cliffs in the distance, and contorted cliffs thrown into relief by the afternoon sun.The final few miles north took me past a secluded bay with a ruined fisherman’s hut and rusty winch, then past the sea stacks at Stackabank, before a final stagger down to the beach at Sandwick. At one stage, a huge flock of Greylag geese flew past me, heading northwards, unusually in some disarray, rather than in a neat formation (
VIDEO). Some wheeled around and headed back south again! The path over this section is very indistinct, indicating that very few people come this way - all the better for the seals.
The sea stacks at StackabankThe sands at Sandwick were gorgeous in the afternoon sun, and I couldn’t resist taking off my boots and having a paddle, to soothe my aching feet!
Approaching Sandwick beach from the southSparkling sands - the perfect end to the walkAbout 16 miles in total - what a day out!
(
VIDEO of Sandwick Bay from my car)