Orkney may not an obvious destination for wild walking, but there are many excellent shorter walks along cliff tops and across moorland that can be strung together to make a good day out. I’ve decided to share some of them with you on this thread. Here’s the first trip report:
Mull Head - so good that I did it twice! (28 & 30/06/18 ) Mull Head nature reserve is on the far eastern side of Orkney Mainland, on a peninsular called Deerness. Many tourists flock to see the Gloup, a yawning pit in the ground connected to the sea through a cave, but not many make it far into the reserve itself. Also incorporated into this walk is the Covenanter’s Memorial, located on a wild stretch of shore.
I walked to Mull Head on Thursday with my wife, and enjoyed it so much that I went back and did a longer version of the walk on Saturday, incorporating the Covenanters Memorial; just me and the dog. I’ll describe my second walk; going clockwise (although the photos are from both).
After parking in the Gloup car park, I left the tourists behind and headed N up a farm track, past the visitor centre (toilets) and then left past some willow woodland, and on through arable farmland over the top of a slight rise (farm track not marked on the OS map, but there is a waymarked path starting at the car park). On Thursday afternoon we rescued this little fella by the woods; caught up on a barbed wire fence in the hot sun - recovered fine, I’m happy to report.
I continued on over the rise, following farm tracks and flower strewn paths, through typical Orkney farmland; buttercups, cows - and wind turbines.
Turning right at the Covenanters Memorial car park, I followed a path down to the remote north shore. Whilst walking down the path, I was struck by the delightful realization that ‘this is what I do now’ (after taking voluntary redundancy and early retirement a few months ago).
Covenanters Memorial Looking west along the north shore of Deerness
The northern coast of Deerness has a remote feel to it, despite the first section being adjoined by farmland. The path heads ENE along the cliff tops towards the heather moors of the nature reserve. Once on the heather, the walk starts to feel really wild. Several delightful but inaccessible coves below.
The highest point of Mull Head is marked by a trig point; a fine viewpoint, but I prefer the stone cairn right on the end of the headland (Chip of the Mull). The islands of Auskerry and Copinsay with their lighthouses can be seen from here (Copinsay below in the distance).
Southwards now, and the coastal scenery becomes more spectacular; the path passes a horrible cleft in the ground, Riven Trangie, from which prehistoric bird cries echo and the stench of guano emanates. A forbidding but strangely fascinating spot.
Cottongrass
The path continues southwards along clifftops and across moorland to the Brough of Deerness, a rocky headland upon which there are the remains of a Viking settlement and chapel. The path up is a bit rocky and exposed, and I didn’t take the dog up, but I do recommend it.
North from below the Brough of Deerness
From here it is only about half a mile over grassy heath to the Gloup, which you are unlikely to have to yourself unless you are early or late in the day. The Gloup is only a few hundred yards from the car park.
The Gloup Is it cheating to use dog power?
Distance - about 5.5 miles or so; allow 2.5 hours or more for photography, detours to the shore etc.
More to come soon