Author Topic: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !  (Read 6863 times)

docpaul

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Well the title might be a wee exaggeration, but maybe you won't think so! Rannoch Moor is an amazing piece of Scottish landscape, well seen from the road between Bridge of Orchy and Glencoe. But you can get a more remote feeling experience by taking the train from Tyndrum to Rannoch or Corrour stations - the latter being really in the middle of nowhere. Even Rannoch, which has road access, is miles from the main road to the east at Pitlochry.
 
 
A winter walk then from Rannoch to Corrour, taking in two easy but really remote Munros of Carn Dearg and Sgor Gaibhre was our idea for Saturday Feb 26th.
 
Two maps needed cos this is a very linear walk of 16 miles, 25.8Km, with 1200m of ascent.
 
From Rannoch Station, there's a lovely stroll along and up to a long hill ridge with ever widening views across the moor.
 

 
and then the wonderful traverse over the wide hills and down to gorgeous Loch Ossian, tramping west to Corrour Station and what must be the remotest cafe in Britain!
 

 
We had great service joining the London to Fort William sleeper at Tyndrum, and after a fabulously scenic journey up onto the moor, passing many deer en route, we arrived at Rannoch.
 

 
Not an amazing amount of snow about, but the day was looking promising.
 

 
A glistening and sparkling morning walking east from Rannoch Station to the start of the hill track known as the "road to the Isles".

 
Loch Eigheach was looking clean and new like Spring!

 
The Road to the Isles proved to be no motorway!
 

 
Beginning the ascent of the long south ridge of Carn Dearg, the views opened up brilliantly. Left of centre here is Glen Etive in the far distance, with the Blackwater Reservoir to the right.
 

 
Blackwater again, with (left) the Black Mount hills, Glen Etive, then Buachaille Etive Mor
 

 
When the snow gets sparse, the Ptarmigan are kinda easy to spot!!
 

 
Getting high now, and the view back to Rannoch is moody...

 
First summit - Carn Dearg. Misty, windy, but letting us look over towar our next objective, Sgor Gaibhre.

 
After a brief bite to eat, what's to do but begin the traverse to Gaibhre.....
 

 
... which proves to be an altogether sunnier spot with stupendous views over to Ben Alder, one of Scotlands remote greats!

 
A 2-pic pano of the same view:

 
Four good men and true - taken by a good woman!

 
 
From Sgor Gaibhre over Loch Ericht to Schiehallion

 
 
"Ladies and Gentleman we are beginning our descent to Loch Ossian, kindly observe the seatbelt sign......"
 

 
 
Beautiful evening light accompanies us along Loch Ossian - surely one of Scotland's great lochs. At this point we are at least 8 miles from any metalled road.

 
 

 

 
 
The walk took us roughly 8.5 hours - a really satisfying day. The fact that there is a great cafe at Corrour serving tea, ale, and fine banana cake, was a real bonus!
 
Then the 6.25 train across the darkened moor to Tyndrum and the fleshpots of the glorious Real Food Restaurant for "our tea!"
 
 
Thanks for looking in!!
 
Paul
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Courage doesn’t always come in a loud roar.
Sometimes courage comes as a small voice at the end of the day saying,
“I’ll try again tomorrow.”

yorksgal

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #1 on: 22:22:17, 01/03/11 »
Nice trip report and photos Paul O0

It looks like the red coat brigade on the station  ;D

docpaul

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #2 on: 22:25:36, 01/03/11 »
Yes we did clock that - the English Redcoats arriving! Expected a few Jacobites to appear out of the heather with their Skien doo's in their teeth!!!  ;D
Courage doesn’t always come in a loud roar.
Sometimes courage comes as a small voice at the end of the day saying,
“I’ll try again tomorrow.”

yorksgal

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #3 on: 22:27:14, 01/03/11 »
Yes we did clock that - the English Redcoats arriving! Expected a few Jacobites to appear out of the heather with their Skien doo's in their teeth!!!  ;D

 ;D ;D ;D

angry climber

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #4 on: 02:09:47, 02/03/11 »
Loved the report but you really got my attention when you mentioned the real food cafe. Its always been my firm favorite stop on my way home to Stirling. I have loved the food from its very beginning. mmm you are making me hungry and I only have Spag boll for my dinner. Its good but never fish and chips lol.   
Never judge someone by the opinion of others find out for yourself.

Alex Quinn

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #5 on: 06:44:05, 02/03/11 »
Excellent TR and photographs, especially the one of Loch Eigeach O0 .


ken

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #6 on: 07:45:09, 02/03/11 »
great tr Paul with sum stunning views that's a route i will have to put in the book for the future  O0 O0 O0
147 to go and counting

docpaul

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #7 on: 08:35:22, 02/03/11 »
Thanks guys!
 
Loved the report but you really got my attention when you mentioned the real food cafe. Its always been my firm favorite stop on my way home to Stirling. I have loved the food from its very beginning.

 :) :) :)
 
Yep - gradually working our way through the menu. Highly recommended come the following:
 
Mediterranean Fish Soup
Venison sausage, red cabbage and chips,
Haggis and chips with mushy peas..............
 
You realise I don't NORMALLY eat chips!!  ::)
 
The whole ethos of the place is so brilliant, and when Sarah is there she is always going round chatting to people - there's nowhere else like it.  O0
 

 
 
great tr Paul with sum stunning views that's a route i will have to put in the book for the future  O0 O0 O0

Thanks Ken - yes the actual hills of themselves are not the most spectacular, but the sense of remoteness and space is fantastic. Also the feeling of being on the watershed of scotland - seeing Glen Etive and the Grey Corries for example, and the other way over to Alder, Loch Ericht, and even Ben a Ghlo. Brilliant!
 
 
 
Courage doesn’t always come in a loud roar.
Sometimes courage comes as a small voice at the end of the day saying,
“I’ll try again tomorrow.”

Nomad

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #8 on: 08:37:41, 02/03/11 »
What a great day out Paul. You've opened my eyes now.Sleeper from Preston up to the Highlands  O0


So remote and peaceful straight from the station. Great report and photos. That Loch Ossian is a bit special isn't it  O0

mananddog

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #9 on: 08:41:14, 02/03/11 »
I am off to fort Bill area on Saturday to do a bit of ice climbing - the lack of snow on your pictures is worrying.
 
I think I might do the Corrour walk option while up there - it has been on my list of things to do for a while now.

docpaul

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #10 on: 09:40:40, 02/03/11 »
So remote and peaceful straight from the station. Great report and photos. That Loch Ossian is a bit special isn't it  O0

Yep Nomad it was a pretty special walk. The train works so well, and it's great to leave the car behind for a whole day!
 
Loch Ossian - just stunning. You can even stay in a SYHA hostel right on the shore at the Corrour end - or they've now also reopened the bunkhouse at the station as a hostel.
 
I am off to fort Bill area on Saturday to do a bit of ice climbing - the lack of snow on your pictures is worrying.
 
I think I might do the Corrour walk option while up there - it has been on my list of things to do for a while now.
[
 
True there's not a whole lot of snow for the time of year. One of the problems was the freezing level mid last week was 3500m and it was tipping with rain in the W Highlands.  :(
 
We had a fresh fall of snow above about 1500ft Sat/Sun (see upcoming TR on Beinn Dubhchreag) but it was already melting at lower levels by the afternoon.
That said, none of the hills we did last weekend were of the highest. I guess over 1000m and in gullies etc you will be OK.
 
Paul
 
 
Courage doesn’t always come in a loud roar.
Sometimes courage comes as a small voice at the end of the day saying,
“I’ll try again tomorrow.”

carolina2k9

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #11 on: 15:07:24, 02/03/11 »
excellant stuff. :)
Happiness is only a Hill away :-)

gotmeheadshaved

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #12 on: 17:23:11, 02/03/11 »
Looks amazing. Great photos! Like the idea of the train too  O0
 
Steve
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PistonPete

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #13 on: 19:10:43, 03/03/11 »
Jealous again.  I believe it's possible to get a sleeper to Rannoch Moor from London to  O0
Walk

amnesiacjimmy

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Re: [TR] by rail to walk the wild heart of Scotland !
« Reply #14 on: 23:36:46, 03/03/11 »
OMG Paul how amazing was that!! I wish you were my doctor, i f i was sick you would sign me off and tell me to take a weeks hike in the scottish hills ! Those pics really are inspiring, where did you come up with th e idea for the route???? Lovin it! Thanks!

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