Author Topic: [TR] Sgurr Dearg and the Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pin) Friday 29th April 2011  (Read 7561 times)

Mayaculpa

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I've just got back from a another long weekend on Skye to celebrate the Royal Wedding and in weather more appropriate to May knocked off 6 munros the "In Pin" and the Clach Glas -> Blabheinn traverse.

Day 1. 

Sgurr Dearg and the Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pin) 986m
Sgurr Mhic Choinnich 948m

Participants: Mayaculpa, Stewie Webb72

Weather: Perfect (how often can you say that)
Start: NG414214 Glen Brittle Memorial Hut  (07:20)

Sgurr Dearg  the Inaccessible Pinnacle is the second highest peak in the Cuillin (986m), and faces the highest, Sgurr Alasdair, across Coire Lagan.
It is the only Munro with a peak that can only be reached by rock climbing,  This makes it somewhat difficult for many Munro baggers, and the only peak Sir Hugh Munro himself did not summit.

The plan was to do the In Pin and then to walk over and bag Sgurr Mhic Choinnich.
For years I'd wanted to bag this one and for 24 hours i'd done nothing but think and dream of it

It was with some nervousness and apprehension that it was now about to happen that hurried me on up
Coire Na Banachdich passing the Eas waterfall without so much a glance, and on up to the head wall and the final climb up to the top of Sgurr Dearg.
We topped out right in front of the 'In Pin'  and stood there amazed in the early morning light (09:20)

No one else about we had it to ourselves.

Not having abseiled for some years, we had stopped off the day before at a disused quarry on the A87 by Kintail and practiced for an hour, and were now wondering, if we had done enough.

We examined the route up, as much as we could see, and from every angle studied the profile.

The plan was to stick to conventional thinking, go up the long edge in two pitches using slings to protect the climb.

We spent another half hour considering wether to do it or not. Some doubt had set in and neither of us fancied leading it.

with that, another team arrived, and we discussed it with them and felt encouraged. We let them climb on while we put harnesses on.

Stewie chose to lead, and with  that another team arrived, so he began climbing. Before long it was my turn, stewie called "Climb when ready", moments later I called back "Climbing" and started on up.

As you can see from the pics the "in Pin" is like a huge fin of rock varying in width at it's edge from 600mm to 1600mm with a horrid drop on one side and an even more horrid, giddyfying, vertigo inducing one on the other.

Luckily I was focussed and in the zone concentrating only of the immediate moves ahead of me.
,
Already the next lead climber was on route behind me and by the time I was belayed and Stewie off on the second pitch, I had his company
and he started to bring up his partner.

My turn to do the second pitch, It's shorter and more exposed, and was over all too soon. With the benefit of the rope, its easy, Stewie experienced an adrenalin rush and though pumpin' with excitement, was completely focussed, was how he described it later.

On the summit we  had little room and no real opportunity for photos.

A steel chain encirles the base of the bean shaped rock at the summit and Stewie anchored our rope to it. Throwing the ends down we heard them bottom out. we used a 50m rope and the abseil is about 25m.

Stewie abseiled first, confidently and within moments had landed safely. Attaching the two strands of rope to my descender
 I unclipping from the safety of the metal chain. Now my turn, leaning back and stepping over the edge a delicious moment of confidence overcoming fear. Well thats how I like to describe it. The practice had paid off.

We shook each others hands,in congratulations with huge grins from ear to ear.

Some time later we walked over and bagged Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, don't honestly remember much about it except for descending stupendous screes into Corrie Lagan on the way back.

Here's some pics of our experience:



Sgurr Banachdich from Sgurr Dearg



In Pin with left Sgurr Alasdair


In Pin Summit closeup


Another profile


View over to Sgurr nan Gillean



View over to Blabheinn
 

view to Rum
 

In Pin profile looking North



Sound of Rum. Stewie looks on


In Pin view West


Stewie on the first pitch


close up


Stewie catching up


Close up


In Pin Summit


Stewie descending. more teams have arrived looking on.


We're finished, others on the way up.


Close up


looking back to Sgurr Dearg on the way to Sgurr Mhic Choinnich


looking back to Sgurr Dearg looking from Sgurr Mhic Choinnich

Thanks for looking.
These and more pics at higher resolution are here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mayaculpa/sets/72157626649275172/
« Last Edit: 10:28:02, 06/05/11 by Mayaculpa »
If you can lead it to water and make it drink, It isn't a horse <(^_^)>

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Alex Quinn

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Awesome, absolutley awesome, and well done to Stewie for leading off.  O0 Looks like a pretty amazing, unforgetable day. Well done.

Peakbagger

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Amazing photo's. :) I don't think you could've picked a better time to go weather wise. Is that all of Skye's Munro's ticked off now?
Current Munro tally: 78 out of 282 completed so far.

All 190 Welsh Nuttalls completed.

Ruthr

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Agreed, great photos. My brother has been up the In Pin but didn't take any photos so it's good to see what it's like.
Sponser Emma to walk Scafell Pike next month in aid of Brace and in memory of her Great Nan
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sunnydale

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Fantastic Maya  O0
***Happiness is only a smile away***

ken

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excellent trip report mike looks like you had a brilliant day this is one I still have to visit so am now looking forward to getting there even more. did you see johnny or dolly -Chris as I think they were on sky the same time?
147 to go and counting

One F in Foreigner

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Brilliant report and photos - guess you're still buzzing from that adventure.
I prefer the folly of enthusiasm to the indifference of wisdom. (Anatole France)

Mayaculpa

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Amazing photo's. :) I don't think you could've picked a better time to go weather wise. Is that all of Skye's Munro's ticked off now?

Thanks PB. Not quite, still 3 to do. Am Basteir,  Sgurr Dubh Mòr and Sgurr nan Eag

Plus Sgurr an Fheadain, Bidein Druim nan Ramh, Sgurr na Bairnich, Sgurr na Stri etc etc and All the reds.

It will keep me going for years

« Last Edit: 14:17:19, 06/05/11 by Mayaculpa »
If you can lead it to water and make it drink, It isn't a horse <(^_^)>

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Mayaculpa

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excellent trip report mike looks like you had a brilliant day this is one I still have to visit so am now looking forward to getting there even more. did you see johnny or dolly -Chris as I think they were on sky the same time?

Thanks Ken, Yes we saw Johnny, Eamon, Paul, Kenny, Adam and Tom. They were  camping at Slig while practicing for their Alps trip
 
We were at Carbost and then SYHA.Broadford primarily to complete unfinshed business on the Clach Glas - Blaven traverse

We all met up for that.  O0

Is it the best single day mountaineering route in the British Isles?  O0 O0 O0
I for one think so Ken.
Exciting stuff.
Stewie Web72 soloed it!!!  ::) O0 O0 O0



If you can lead it to water and make it drink, It isn't a horse <(^_^)>

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Mayaculpa

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Brilliant report and photos - guess you're still buzzing from that adventure.

Thanks One F. It is one that will burn in my memory for a long time. O0
Thoroughly spoiled for anywhere else now :)
Cant wait to go back.
If you can lead it to water and make it drink, It isn't a horse <(^_^)>

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mountainwalker39

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Just looked back in my notebook - last did Inpin on 21st February 1963. (RAF mountain rescue winter course).  Left Glen Brittle at 1300 hrs (lazy sods :-[ ) and went up into Coire Lagan on to the ridge, along via Inpin ( ice/snow very thick :D ) and Sguir Dearg then down Coire Banachdict. Back down at 1900 hrs. (It went dark about 1630 hrs 8) ).  Great days but beyond me now in those conditions.

Great pics you have. I didn't get any when I was there so it's nice to see it in the light.  You had a super day.

Mayaculpa

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All, thanks for your comments  :)

Here's two more pics of us just before abseiling off.  Photo Credit Rebecca Cole:






 


If you can lead it to water and make it drink, It isn't a horse <(^_^)>

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angry climber

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Cheers for taking the time to post these cracking photos mate. Its a brilliant place and a thrilling climb. Cheers for that.  O0   
Never judge someone by the opinion of others find out for yourself.

ken

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Is it the best single day mountaineering route in the British Isles?  O0 O0 O0
I for one think so Ken.
Exciting stuff.


great stuff looking forward to sum pics. we looked long and hard at that ridge from the top of blaven last year and promised ourselves a return visit  O0
147 to go and counting

Tryfan75

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Oh wow.  Simply....wow.... O0

 

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