Walking Forum
Regions - Trip reports, destination advice, recommended routes, etc. => Scotland => Topic started by: richardh1905 on 16:47:43, 21/09/19
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South Ronaldsay Coast
20/09/2019
South Ronaldsay has some good sections of coastal path, and it has long been an intention of mine to combine the best of these in a long circular walk.
(https://i.ibb.co/t2tGWyh/00-Map.png)
Route also available free on Viewranger HERE (https://my.viewranger.com/route/details/MjYzOTk1MA==)
Information on Orkney core paths HERE (https://www.arcgis.com/apps/MapSeries/index.html?appid=462f21e42d74428984b868be3a8c57c2#)
The weather was perfect, bright sunshine, light winds and not a cloud in the sky, so after throwing a few things into my rucksack, I jumped in the car and drove south. As I crested the brow of a hill, the view opened out before me, all of the mountains of the far north of Scotland on display, like trophies along a shelf - Scaraben, Maiden Pap, Morvern, Ben Griam Beg, Ben Klibreck, Ben Loyal, Ben Hope, Foinaven, Cranstackie, Beinn Spionnaidh, and the Cape Wraqth cliffs beyond. Absolutely outstanding visibility, Foinaven for example was 80 miles away. Enough to make the heart sing!
After driving down to South Ronaldsay over the Churchill Barriers, I parked at Sandwick, about half way down the west coast. My intention was to head east across the island along quiet roads, then traverse along the clifftops in a clockwise direction, finishing back at Sandwick.
(https://i.ibb.co/t8ppMYZ/01-Sandwick.jpg)
Sandwick Bay, Barth Head in the distance
The road walk east was pleasant enough, even on the main road I was only passed by 5 cars. The road ends at the Stews farm, an intriguing name. An arrow directed me to the north of the farm buildings, but then I made a blunder, missing a short direct route to the clifftop path. Instead I descended northwards, past some cows, joining the coast near sandy Newark Bay. No matter, a pleasant diversion, even though I had to regain the height lost. Not so pleasant was the long wet grass, which wet firstly the bottom of my trousers, then my feet.
(https://i.ibb.co/fqKpSyH/03-Contented-Cows.jpg)
Contented Cows
The cliffs here are like a rock garden in early summer, but this late on in the year there were just a few flowers out, Devil’s Bit Scabious, Tormentil and some yellow Hawkweed being the most noticeable.
(https://i.ibb.co/nQTgCNC/Primroses.jpg)
Primroses on these cliffs earlier in the year
The cliffs steadily gained in height, and the views to the north in particular were gorgeous, with the wedge shaped island of Copinsay visible in the distance, and a variety of rock formations on display, rock slabs, overhangs, and, in one place, evidence of a big landslide. The going was rather variable, unwelcome wet grass interspersed with springy heather and crowberry; much more pleasant walking.
(https://i.ibb.co/vJWnXpt/03-East-Coast-Cliffs.jpg)
East coast sea cliffs, the island of Copinsay in the far distance
(https://i.ibb.co/WVjh1s3/04-Gorgeous-Colours.jpg)
Gorgeous colours
After passing the highest point, the path descended past the cliffs at Hesta Head, scene of a First World War tragedy where two destroyers ran aground in a blizzard (https://www.orkney.com/news/ww1-commemorations), towards the cobble beach at Windwick.
(https://i.ibb.co/XszBW4F/05-South-Over-Windwick.jpg)
Southwards towards Windwick. Triple topped Scaraben and the cone of Morvern visible on the skyline
(https://i.ibb.co/C9nd4fg/06-Windwick-Sea-Stacks.jpg)
Hesta Head cliffs and Clett of Crura sea stack
(https://i.ibb.co/TP7g05q/07-Windwick-Beach.jpg)
The cobble beach at Windwick, with Halcro Head beyond
(https://i.ibb.co/j3Nd6pF/11-Sea-Stack-Copinsay.jpg)
The Clett of Crura, wedge shaped Copinsay in the distance
The next section of cliffs are not as high, but make for equally pleasant walking. To regain the shore, I followed an arrow down a burnside path choked with chest high nettles, and damp rushes that were in places higher than me - I was glad to break through to the shore!
The tallest cliffs here are at Halcro Head, not very photogenic from the north, and not very visible from the south! Nearby is a Gloup, a fearsome hole in the ground formed by a collapsed sea cave. A stout barbed wire fence prevented me from getting too close a look at it, but, to be honest, there are better examples in Orkney. The path from here is a delight, descending slowly towards the Tomb of the Eagles, with fine views of the Pentland Firth to the south.
(https://i.ibb.co/TtpFS3N/08-Striking-Cliffs.jpg)
Striking cliffs south of Halcro Head
Up to now, I had not met a soul on the clifftops, but inevitably I did near the tomb, it is a prime tourist attraction. Stopped for lunch of oatcakes and smoked mackerel pate on a bench near the tomb. I made good use of the visitor centre too, tea, from a machine, unfortunately, and a tub of Orkney Ice Cream - raspberry is my favourite. Very pleasant to sit in the sun at a picnic bench taking in the view - but I had to press on.
(https://i.ibb.co/g4PMVFx/09-Tomb-Of-The-Eagles.jpg)
The entrance to prehistoric Tomb of the Eagles. Note the wheeled trolley to help you slide yourself in!
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The twin towers of Pentland Skerries lighthouse. The shorter tower is for a foghorn, now decommissioned.
(https://i.ibb.co/WvvCwyY/12-Ham-Geo.jpg)
Ham Geo. The path turns inland to the visitor centre here; the moors behind the coast beyond are a nature reserve, a breeding ground for Arctic Skuas, and visitors are discouraged.
I skipped the southern shore, it is an unremarkable bouldery stumble, and cut across to Burwick on minor roads. There is an underused ferry terminal here, and a bit of a derelict air to the place. I was glad to pass behind some disused concrete sea defence blocks and regain the clifftop path. The tide really rips past the land here, and actually forms rapids at times.
I continued north past the headland at Castle, site of an ancient fortification, and the views to the north unfolded, Barth Head with the hills of Hoy beyond. Rather frustratingly, the farmers have erected fences close to the edge of this deeply indented coastline, which meant that I couldn’t take shortcuts across headlands, sometimes having to walk a few hundred yards instead of 50. Beautiful views of contorted cliffs and sea caves though, so I shouldn’t really grumble.
(https://i.ibb.co/KVw84WL/13-Pentland-Firth.jpg)
South past Castle headland to the Pentland Firth
(https://i.ibb.co/zP93N7m/12-Sea-Birds.jpg)
Sea birds resting on a rock - Shags, I think
(https://i.ibb.co/m6srtwq/14-Contorted-Rocks.jpg)
Contorted cliffs, Barth Head and the hills of Hoy beyond
(https://i.ibb.co/b1yDJz1/15-Barth-Head.jpg)
Barth Head jutting out into the southern approach to Scapa Flow; sea caves in the foreground.
After passing Barth Head, which sticks out like the prow of a ship, the path descends over an expanse of heather moorland, with views ahead of the red sandstone cliffs beyond Sandwick, my starting point. When I was here last October (http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=36764.15), the seals had pupped, and the inaccessible beaches were full of them, the air full of their cries, but I was too early this year.
(https://i.ibb.co/1v3GxDd/16-North-To-Sandwick.jpg)
The view north from just beyond Barth Head. Red sandstone cliffs in the distance, and contorted cliffs thrown into relief by the afternoon sun.
The final few miles north took me past a secluded bay with a ruined fisherman’s hut and rusty winch, then past the sea stacks at Stackabank, before a final stagger down to the beach at Sandwick. At one stage, a huge flock of Greylag geese flew past me, heading northwards, unusually in some disarray, rather than in a neat formation (VIDEO (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KS9a2PzEqfw)). Some wheeled around and headed back south again! The path over this section is very indistinct, indicating that very few people come this way - all the better for the seals.
(https://i.ibb.co/5hn9t1Y/17-Stackabank.jpg)
The sea stacks at Stackabank
The sands at Sandwick were gorgeous in the afternoon sun, and I couldn’t resist taking off my boots and having a paddle, to soothe my aching feet!
(https://i.ibb.co/41BNFJb/18-Sandwick.jpg)
Approaching Sandwick beach from the south
(https://i.ibb.co/xf7JGTw/19-Sparkling-Sands.jpg)
Sparkling sands - the perfect end to the walk
About 16 miles in total - what a day out!
(VIDEO (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1t3c4micKA) of Sandwick Bay from my car)
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Lovely pics and report.
Those geese really need to sort them selves out.
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Great stuff Richard - thanks! O0
I was inspired to use Google satellite and street views to get an overall picture of Orkney. I noted the many causeways and I'm guessing that small ferries (for foot passengers) make getting to other smaller islands from Mainland reasonably easy.
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Thanks Ridge - the local farmers would certainly like to sort the geese out - upwards of 80,000 of them overwinter here, and they eat a lot of grass! Seeing a thousand strong flock take flight is a magnificent sight though, live and let live.
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Thanks Dave. :)
There are causeways to Burray and South Ronaldsay, ferries to all the other inhabited isles (with the exception of tiny Auskerry, inhabited by one family over the summer months).
The ferry services are variable, to North Hoy, of great interest to walkers, there is a good passenger service from Stromness. A vehicle service also runs to the more populated southern part of Hoy, opening up the possibility of doing an overnight "through trip" (something that I haven't done).
Rousay (archaeology + hilly), Westray (west coast), Sanday (fantastic beaches) and Eday (wild north) are all worthwhile for walkers, the other islands perhaps less so.
http://www.orkneyferries.co.uk/ (http://www.orkneyferries.co.uk/)
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I always love seeing and hearing the geese overhead. In Aberdeenshire we mainly get pink footed geese, with up to one fifth of the world’s population wintering at Loch of Strathbeg and many thousands at Montrose Bay. From about now, fields can be seen covered in geese. We often see and hear them flying over our house. I am not surprised that they are not always the farmers’ favourite bird.
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It is one thing that I will miss when I move south, Mike.
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It is one thing that I will miss when I move south, Mike.
I don't know how far south you're moving Richard, but about 4 miles from where I live are the Graveney Marshes which attract huge numbers of migrating and other birds - we get flocks of up to 2,000 Brent geese.
Sadly, this marshy atmospheric desolate landscape is the subject of a planning battle with locals fighting a proposal to make the marshes the site of the UK's biggest solar farm - five times bigger than anything built or planned anywhere else.
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Oh I'm sure that there will be some geese around in the south of Cumbria, but I doubt in the same numbers. The call of geese is something that I shall always associate with Orkney.
Crazy to be destroying the environment for a solar farm! -surely rooftops are the logical place to put PV.
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I don't know how far south you're moving Richard, but about 4 miles from where I live are the Graveney Marshes which attract huge numbers of migrating and other birds - we get flocks of up to 2,000 Brent geese.
Sadly, this marshy atmospheric desolate landscape is the subject of a planning battle with locals fighting a proposal to make the marshes the site of the UK's biggest solar farm - five times bigger than anything built or planned anywhere else.
You would need to add some zeroes to get to the number of geese we have up here. The solar farm proposal seems to be madness. It is another example of Single Number Syndrome, here using CO2 as the sole measure of the state of the environment. Richard is right, we should put the solar panels on existing buildings.
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Excellent coastal walking and pictures O0
A fine day to appreciate the Orkney landscape a last time before finally moving.
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Thanks vghikers - if only I could be sure that it was the last time before moving! Still no news. ::)
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Gorgeous photos Richard O0
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Thanks sunnydale :)
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BBC Scotland were showing re-runs of A Road Less Travelled, Cameron McNeish was walking around Orkney. Looked to be a smashing place.
Some interesting historical information as well, probably still on the iPlayer and worth watching.
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My own visit to this area was very brief....well we only reached a small section of this coast after our visit to the Old Man.
I recall a café and some sort of a place where you checked in for a tour of the eagles cave?
It is a fine quiet area and we were just there for a couple of routes on the sea cliffs before catching the summer ferry back to John o groats. I sure that we went, more or less, straight down from the café location whereas your route took you towards the Eagles cave and beyond.
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Fabulous photos Richard O0 What a lovely coastline it is :)
Were they trainee geese? ;)
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I recall a café and some sort of a place where you checked in for a tour of the eagles cave?
There's a glass fronted bistro about half way along the south coast (just east of the lochan), and a hot drinks machine and freezer full of lovely Orkney ice cream at the Tomb of the Eagles visitor centre, which is a bit inland.
Fabulous photos Richard O0 What a lovely coastline it is :)
Were they trainee geese? ;)
Thank April - it is. Sometimes the coastline is a bit inaccessible, but there are paths along quite a bit of the S. Ronaldsay coast.
This evening, whilst out with the dog, there was a huge flock of several hundred geese over the misty bay below us, wheeling backwards and forwards in the dusk looking for somewhere to roost - a stunning sight - and sound.