Author Topic: Chesil Beach  (Read 9313 times)

Oldtramp

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Chesil Beach
« on: 18:25:27, 02/01/15 »
Previously, when I walked the SWCP, section by section, I followed the inland route in Dorset, cutting from Osmington Mills to Upwey,  the Hardy Monument and back to the coast at West Bexington missing out Portland and Chesil.  Now, having walked most of the English Coast (except the Lancashire/Cumbria part), this omission is beginning to bug me and I've decided to re-do Dorset 'properly, through Weymouth, round Portland and along Chesil Beach.


Has anyone here walked the  Chesil? If so, how long did it take you? Say from Ferry Bridge on Portland to Abbotsbury (the first escape point, after about 12 miles) or W Bexington.  Pebbles are always a slow surface and I'm guessing 5h to Abbotsbury, but would appreciate comment from anyone with experience of it.


Thanks.

joncombe

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #1 on: 22:10:56, 05/01/15 »
Yes I have walked Chesil Beach and for me it was around five and a half hours. I enjoyed it actually, but it is a tough walk and to be honest a rather featureless one. Within a little over 5 minutes walk from Ferry Bridge I saw no one until I was close to Abbotsbury, not even fisherman. It is really nothing but the sound of the sea on the shingle and a few gulls for company which I quite liked. It is very hard work walking on all that single though, so I suspect in effort terms it will feel a lot longer than the actual distance, despite the lack of hills.

To create a bit of variety I tended to alternate between walking just back from the waters edge at sea level and then along the top of the ridge.

Guaging progress is hard, so I used a GPS to give me an idea of how far I had gone (and had to go). Sadly, there is a vast amount of litter along the beach too (mostly washed up by the sea), as I guess the remote location makes it difficult to clear.

There are a couple of things to be aware of though. If the army range at Tidmoor/Chickerell is in use, it extends along the beach too and obviously on the beach you have no alternative but to turn back. This didn't happen to me, but it would be worth checking if the range is in use first. There is a hut at the start of the range on the beach with a flag. I assume when it's in use someone mans the hut and puts up the red flags. Also make sure you have plenty to drink, as there are no facilities on the way, as you would expect.

The other issue is that most of the beach is closed to the public during the bird nesting season, for  a few months of the year. I assume this is spring time. The months during which you should not walk on the beach are posted on a notice certainly at the Abbotsbury end, probably also at the Portland end, but I can't remember what it said, sorry.  :( I'd advise if starting from Portland end, ask at the visitor centre first to make sure, they should be able to advise the months it is closed (or give them a ring).

Good luck, and I hope you enjoy it. It's a unique place and I found it a good and memorable experience.

The other part of the Dorset (and Devon) coast path I found a bit unsatisfactory was west of Lyme Regis, through the undercliff, to Seaton. An interesting landscape for sure, but not really what I considered coastal - just the odd glimpse of the sea through trees for many miles. I understand this path has been closed now anyway, with a diversion even further inland. I did manage to walk the whole way along the foreshore (at low tide), but again it is tough with lots of rocks and boulders to get around, although much of it is beach (a mixture of sand and shingle). Loads of fossills to be seen on the rocks, where they are largely untouched by the masses, due to the difficult access. If doing this I'd avise starting at Lyme. The sea was closest to the back of the beach at around Seven Rock Point, although it might have changed now, due to the fast coastal erosion around there.

I have photos I took on the walk of Chesil beach here : https://www.flickr.com/search/?tags=chesilbeach&sort=relevance&user_id=70332320%40N00

Oldtramp

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #2 on: 23:05:48, 05/01/15 »
Many thanks.  That fits with my rough guess.  Closure for birds' nesting starts on 1/4, but the need also to check military activity hadn't previously sunk in..... It has now!


Thanks too for the comments on the Lyme Undercliff problem.    If I try the beach will ensure it's on a falling tide (I did a long stretch of the E Yorks coast on exactly that basis). And, yes, I'll be heading E to W, from Lyme to Seaton.  The blockage is mentioned, now that I look, on http://www.walkingclub.org.uk/book_3/walk_156/index.shtml too..... with some ambiguity about whether it's possible to go part way along the path and then unofficially escape to the beach.

Oldtramp

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #3 on: 23:53:23, 18/04/15 »
Never any luck with combinations of weather and lack of shooting for Chesil, so gave up for the time being and followed the main SWCP inside the Fleet....


I did go along the beach from Lyme to Seaton today, starting 2h below low water and finishing 1h after.  No major problems, mostly just alternating shingle and boulder hopping.   Beautiful and lonely, too, with lots of big ammonite fossils for company.   The only mildly tricky bit was getting out of Pinhay Bay towards Humble Point, where large boulders, covered with green slime, block the upper beach. The best answer proved to be to go low, over darker rock shelves and round brown stones, close to the sea, hopping the rock pools.  Though wet, these rocks lacked the green algae and proved easily passable. 


Met two people who'd followed the SWCP through from Lyme then a private path down to Charlton Bay and who were walking back to Lyme. I gathered this path came out at the east end of Charton Bay, though I failed to spot it.  This fits with a B&B at Rousdon advertising that it has a 'private beach'. Any path down from Rousdon must intersect the SWCP.    Since the shingle bank west of Charton Bay, round Culverholme Point at towards Seaton, is high this probably gives more flexibility about the tides than following the beach all the way from Lyme.

silverfox

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #4 on: 08:21:54, 19/04/15 »
I've walked many parts of Chesil as I often fish there but must say never the entire length.  I point I will make is how difficult it is, especially ye portal d end where the shingle is much larges stones. I'm sure the fact that I'm normally carrying all my gear makes it seem considerably more difficult than perhaps just hiking it with a small sack and a few supplies ! Good luck.

swanseamale47

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #5 on: 09:41:35, 12/05/15 »
I've never been there but I'm sure I read something about high radiation levels there some years back, possibly due to radon gas, but there was also a question mark about something during the war if I remember rightly.

archaeoroutes

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #6 on: 10:03:51, 12/05/15 »
Never heard anything about that. They tested the bouncing bombs there but they were conventional explosive.
Walking routes visiting ancient sites in Britain's uplands: http://www.archaeoroutes.co.uk

Trenchfoot

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #7 on: 21:27:31, 12/05/15 »
I take my cap of to you for considering chesil beach as with all those pebbles that would be a killer on the legs - Good luck  O0
roll on the weekend

Oldtramp

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #8 on: 00:10:21, 26/09/16 »
Well dates didn't work out last year, when I was walking the Dorset and Devon coast.  It rained on days when they weren't shooting across the Beach and, on the days when it didn't rain and I could go they were shooting across the Beach.  Then the birds started nesting.  So, I gave up and went down the SWCP on the inside of the Fleet, then to Abbotsbury.


Finally, today, I've been back done and walked the Chesil from Fleet Bridge to Abbotsbury.  Tough going and it became harder further west as the stones became smaller and I tired.  Took about 5h.  In one way it's monotonous...... big shingle getting smaller... But, in another it's beautiful, with water both sides and this long ribbon of stones running dead straight.  Portland in view at one end all the while and Golden Cap at the other.  The breakers coming were 3 or 4 feet high with a stiff breeze and the air was full of fine salt spray, even up on the crest.  I wouldn't have dared walk the water's edge, given the reputation of the undertow.   Wildlife consisted of gulls (many), rabbit (one) and stray swans from the swannery (one group).

Trenchfoot

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #9 on: 07:55:50, 27/09/16 »
Well dates didn't work out last year, when I was walking the Dorset and Devon coast.  It rained on days when they weren't shooting across the Beach and, on the days when it didn't rain and I could go they were shooting across the Beach.  Then the birds started nesting.  So, I gave up and went down the SWCP on the inside of the Fleet, then to Abbotsbury.


Finally, today, I've been back done and walked the Chesil from Fleet Bridge to Abbotsbury.  Tough going and it became harder further west as the stones became smaller and I tired.  Took about 5h.  In one way it's monotonous...... big shingle getting smaller... But, in another it's beautiful, with water both sides and this long ribbon of stones running dead straight.  Portland in view at one end all the while and Golden Cap at the other.  The breakers coming were 3 or 4 feet high with a stiff breeze and the air was full of fine salt spray, even up on the crest.  I wouldn't have dared walk the water's edge, given the reputation of the undertow.   Wildlife consisted of gulls (many), rabbit (one) and stray swans from the swannery (one group).

My only real experience of Chesil was years back when I learnt to dive there, I recall clambering up and down the beach in full diving gear and nearly keeling over such was the effort after a dive - but I got lucky and got to swim with a Bottlenose Dolphin which just turned up unannounced that day - an amazing encounter.
roll on the weekend

Oldtramp

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #10 on: 22:45:10, 27/09/16 »
Diving off Chesil sounds brave;  I thought it was infamous for the undertow.  The dolphin sounds fun, though.

Oldtramp

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #11 on: 19:31:52, 08/10/16 »
On the Beach

Oldtramp

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #12 on: 19:34:23, 08/10/16 »
Nearing Abbotsbury

Oldtramp

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #13 on: 19:41:20, 08/10/16 »
Stones bloody stones

Oldtramp

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Re: Chesil Beach
« Reply #14 on: 21:13:07, 08/10/16 »
And a couple more....

 

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