I hadn't been to Cwmorthin since 2014 and was keen to see what progress had been made in securing the historic buildings in this delightful post industrial valley. I parked at the Ffestiniog railway station at Tanygrisiau (eng; Under the steps) and firstly enjoyed a caffeine hit at the Lakeside Cafe whilst looking out over Llyn Ystradau. "The Steps" is derived from the ancient packhorse route through Cwmorthin on to Croesor, Nantmor and Caernarfon, but the original steps have long disappeared under slate workings.
I then walked uphill to the track which leads into the valley. Great delight to see that a full width locked metal gate had been installed to rid the valley of the scourge of scrambling bikes. First port of call was the terraece of houses known as Cwmorthin Terrace or Tai Llyn. The original four houses were stone built and are beyond any repair. The later four slate built houses were deteriorating rapidly but the walls have now been repointed and capped. At one stage 70 people lived in the eight one up, one down cottages. Each had a fuel store and two seater earth privy to the rear. (two seats are useful if you haven't got an en-suite)
I then walked round to the lakeside entrance to Cwmorthin Quarry (The Abbatoir). This is now in the hands of the Go Below organisation and guided tours underground are available.
A rather attractive white cottage at the lakeside is undergoing renovation. (I'll mention this again later in part 2 ) Behind it are the ruins of the quarry manager's house.
From this point I looked back across to Cwmorthin Terrace lying below Craig Wrysgan which showed the isolation of this small community.
Returning to the main track I noticed another small ruin. This is Capel Tibereas which reputedly held 100 worshipers. Sardines come to mind.
A look back across the lake towards the quarry entrance
The track is now edged by a slate fence separating the land of Cwmorthin Uchaf farm from the Conglog tramway which shared the trackway
Further on is Rhosydd Chapel (Capel Gorlan) which has received some remedial work, but the rear wall is beyond repair unless someone has the time and money
Just beyond and hidden some pine trees is the house of the Rhosydd Quarry manager; a fine house with room for his family and servants. The well is still there but covered over. There was a serious proposal to convert this building to a cafe but lack of sanitation put an end to that.
The end of the valley is now reached and an assortment of buildings are present. The mill of the Conglog Quarry and what was originally Rhosydd Stables for the packhorses which carried the slate down the valley. Rhosydd refused to use the Conglog tramway as they would not pay the Ffestiniog Railway's carriage costs and built their own tramway down Cwm Croesor to Porthmadog. The redundant stables were then converted to cottages and it is recorded that 13 people lived in a one up one down. Husband, wife, nine children and two lodgers. The kids slept upstairs with a curtain separating boys from girls. Husband and wife slept downstairs. History has not recorded where the lodgers slept.
The track continues uphill towards Rhosydd. I'll leave that and the return leg for a second post.