All the above ..... the peace, space, nature, history, new routes discovered, old routes revisited, maps oh yes, definitely maps, people chatted with, rain on the tent roof, food eaten in the fresh air then the food fantasies towards the end of the walk, and that delicious feeling of physical exhaustion with perfect mental contentment that flows over you when at last with a large glass of something refreshing you put your feet up and mull the day over.
Oh yes