TR - Stob a Choire Odhair19th August 2020The
MWIS forecast was good for our last day of our mini break in Tyndrum, with a 90% chance of cloud free tops, and visibility 'excellent to superb', so we decided to have another day out on the hill. We had thought about climbing Ben Cruachan, but ultimately decided to head on up past Bridge of Orchy, and climb Stob a Choir Odhair (945m), a rather obscure mountain on the western edge of Rannoch Moor, with the option of continuing on to Stob Ghabhar to the west if time and fitness allowed.
Viewranger route HEREThe short drive up the A82 from Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy was a delight. Beinn Dorain in particular looked stunning in the morning sunlight, draped in wisps of cloud. Unfortunately I discovered too late that my phone camera would not focus through a car windscreen.
We turned off at the Bridge of Orchy and drove down the minor road to Victoria Bridge, stopping to admire the gorgeous views over Loch Tulla.
Cloud topped Stob Ghabhar across Loch TullaA panoramic view across Loch TullaWe continued on past the Inveroran Hotel and parked in the car park a short distance before Victoria Bridge. We were on our way at 1000.
Beinn an Dothaidh (centre) and Beinn Dorain (left) wreathed in morning cloudThe Abhainn Shira from Victoria BridgeA short distance after Victoria Bridge, at a junction by some houses, we took a track heading westwards through lovely pine woods before entering more open country.
Through the pine woods.....and onwards up the glenStop Ghabhar finally clear of clouds - almost. The track leads all the way up the valley of the Abhainn Shira, before descending Glen Kinglass to the shores of Loch Etive. This would be a lovely walk or cycle ride, but our destination was up a side valley, the path ascending northwards beside the Allt Toaig. The path started gently, but soon started to climb up towards Coire Toaig, and we started to suffer in the heat, being overhauled by two other groups of walkers.
Stob a Choire Odhair was initially hidden from view by the steep western spur of Beinn Toaig, but as we climbed, our reclusive peak finally came into view.
Stob a Choire Odhair finally comes into view - we climbed the grassy ridge to the rightOur peak is separated from the steep western slopes of Beinn Toaig by a burn. After quenching our thirsts and refilling our water bottles, we left the good path leading up into Coire Toaig and tackled the rough path that climbs a steep grassy spur up the southern slopes - this was unpleasantly loose and brutally steep in places, and we struggled in the heat, but eventually we hit some well graded zig-zags, the remnants of an old stalkers path.
A brutally steep climb - we struggled in the heat.The path climbs above Coire Toaig (we later descended the ridge to the right)The fabulous views unfolding behind us gave us an excuse to stop several times! Ben Cruachan in cloud far right.The zig zags were much easier going, and I started to enjoy the climb. The slope eventually eased, and the path petered out amongst rocky ground, a good place to stop for a bite to eat.
Tess with Stob Ghabhar beyondAs we climbed up the rocky slopes towards the summit, we started to see new mountains revealing themselves - in particular, a strikingly steep dark mountain to the north west - this I later identified as Bidean nam Bian - another mountain added to my 'to do' list.
Bidean nam Bian comes into view as we near the summitAnd then we were there, and it was as if the World lay at our feet, with the vast expanse of Rannoch Moor laid out below us. I don't think that I have ever experienced such a dramatic summit view 'reveal' before.
Rannoch Moor laid out below us - no photograph could ever do the view justiceAnother view of Bidean nam Bian, with Clach Leathad to the rightI couldn't tear my eyes away from Rannoch MoorPanoramic shot of Stob Ghabhar (left), Bidean nam Bain (centre), Clach Leathad and Meall a Bhuiridh (right)After lunch we descended down the broad western ridge, new views down into the valley of the River Ba to the north revealed as we descended. We also caught a peep of a secretive lochan nestling in a dark corrie on the eastern flank of Stob Ghabhar, frustratingly this stayed in the shade of the clouds now forming above the summit so I couldn't get a good photograph of it.
Clach Leathad to the northThe rugged terrain guarding the eastern approach to Stob Ghabhar, the summit now in cloud.The ridge steepened but made for pleasant walking as the path wound its way around and between a series of small crags. Rather predictably, we decided that we didn't want to climb the steep rocky slopes ahead; instead we angled down easy grassy slopes into the head of Coire Toaig.
Looking back up the western ridge of Stob a Choire OdhairLooking down into Coire Toaig, with Beinn Dorain and Beinn Odhar beyondInitially the path down the valley was rather rough and boggy, but it improved as we descended. There were a lot of flowers in the valley - still some bog asphodel in flower higher up, heather on the slopes above us, and harebells, scabious and hawkweed lower down.
We stopped for a rest at the burn we had previously crossed, and I spotted some interesting red berries on the sunny northern bank - these were cowberries, and I couldn't resist trying a few - they were a bit tart and tasted rather like cranberries.
We still had a few miles to go, but it was all downhill from here, along a mostly decent path, and the views of the mountains in the afternoon sunlight were lovely.
Beinn Achaladair, Beinn an Dothaidh and Beinn Dorain from the path beside the Allt ToaigWith a mile to go, we spotted a couple of stags on the far side of the Abhainn Shira, these were rather unperturbed by our presence, even when we had a paddle in the river a couple of hundred yards further downstream - it felt so good to cool our pummelled hot feet.
What a day out on the hill - a 'quality mountain day' if ever there was one. There is something about the vastness and wildness of the Highlands that puts them in a league of their own when compared to other British mountains.
Pronunciation and more information on Stob a Choire Odhair can be found on the WalkHighlands website
HERE.
Photos of me and of the red deer by my wife.