Author Topic: [Trip Report] Sgurr a' Mhadaidh, Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh & Sgurr na Banachdich  (Read 8221 times)

Peakbagger

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Friday 9th April: Today I did a solo walk taking in three of the Black Cuillin's Munro's. The walk involved some of the most tricky scrambling that I've ever attempted. Some of it is rated as grade 3, mainly due to the extreme exposure and the odd tricky move. The rock itself wasn't all that forgiving either being quite friable in places and also very rough on the hands.

I started at Glen Brittle YHA and followed a clear path that headed up into Coire a' Ghreadaidh. From here the going became a little harder as I had to ascend a scree chute to reach a notch in the ridge called An Dorus (The Door). Getting up and out of An Dorus involved a short section of grade 3 scrambling before reaching easier ground and a simple scramble to the summit of Sgurr a' Mhadaidh.

From Sgurr a' Mhadaidh I returned back the way I had come and a tricky climb back down into An Dorus before climbing back out of the other side which, once again, is a short bit of grade 3. From here it's easy scrambling up the ridge bypassing an imposing tower of rock named 'The Wart' before reaching the summit of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh.

This is where the fun bit begins! I can either return the way I had come and descend back to the car or continue along the ridge to the next Munro. The Cicerone Guide to Walking The Munros say's the following, "There is no great technical difficulty in the next section of the ridge (although it is usually given a grade 3), but it requires great care as it narrows to a genuine knife-edge aręte with a delicious degree of exposure on both sides. This can feel intimidating. Many parties will find it extremely exhilarating, but those who don't have a head for heights will probably not.". That read and digested I decided to continue and enjoy the delicious degree of exposure! The aręte was quite tricky in places as the rock can be quite friable, not to mention having the texture of sandpaper which is hard going on the skin. I bumped into three guys going the opposite way across the aręte but they were the only people I saw all day.

Soon the aręte was done and the ridge broadened a bit but there was still some scrambling to be done as I negotiated the Three Teeth and the descent down from the minor top of Sgurr Thormaid. Finally I began to ascend to the summit of Sgurr na Banachdich which is an easy ascent over scree and boulders. From the summit I had a fleeting view of Sgurr Dearg and the Inaccessible Pinnacle before the cloud obscured it again.

From Sgurr na Banachdich I made an easy descent over scree down to the An Diallaid Ridge and into Coir' an Eich before returning to my car at Glen Brittle YHA. Whilst descending I could heard a helicopter hovering up by the main ridge, I hope the three guys I had seen earlier hadn't got into any trouble but it was in the area that they had headed to.

Here's the photo's:


Looking up into Coire a' Ghreadaidh.


An Dorus visible on the ridge.


Heading up the scree chute to An Dorus.


The going was steep and the loose scree wasn't making it any easier.


Looking back down into the coire.


An Dorus, a narrow notch in the ridge with steep drops either side.


The ridge leading to the summit of Sgurr a' Mhadaidh.


From the ridge the view down into the coire.


A Brucie on the summit of Sgurr a' Mhadaidh!


A brief break in the cloud reveals the ridge leading to Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh on the other side of An Dorus.


Heading up the ridge to Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh.


The Wart.


Another Brucie! This time on the summit of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh.


The start of the aręte and the south top of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh.


The south top with the aręte dropping away to the right.


A typical view with very steep drops either side.


Some more of the aręte.


Looking back at what I've already scrambled along.


I never got a clear view of the whole aręte as the cloud remained stubbornly in place.


The view down into the coire.


Negotiating the Three Teeth, Sgurr Thormaid in the clag behind.


A view of the peaks further along the main Cuillin Ridge.


From the summit of Sgurr Thormaid looking up at Sgurr na Banachdich.


Looking back to Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh.


Looking up at Sgurr na Banachdich, final Munro of the day.


Looking back up at Sgurr Thormaid.


Easy scrambling to the summit of Sgurr na Banachdich.


Looking along the ridge to Sgurr Dearg with the Inaccessible Pinnacle just about visible.


Here's the Brucie!


On the descent, looking back up at the scree slope from Coir' an Eich.


Heading back to the car, the view back to the ridge.
Current Munro tally: 78 out of 282 completed so far.

All 190 Welsh Nuttalls completed.

angry climber

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Brilliant pics mate cheers for sharing
 
The place is just brilliant and you seem to have captured some of the best of it. It really is unforgiving on the body, Scrapes and skinless fingers are unavoidable.
 
I am glad you enjoyed it and have added to your munro tally.
 
Well done.
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amnesiacjimmy

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Wow wow wow and more wow!!! Sublime to ridiculous - Brucies and out of this world views and aretes. I take my sweaty woolly hat off to you for doin g all that, and especially for taking those photos, as AC says you ve captured the mood perfectly. Would you say that arete is more dicey than Sharp Edge on Blencathra?? Sure looks it  :o    I think as me kids grow up more I shall have to take a trip up to Scotland, or even sseveral. I can see why Mark (Radder) is now into Munros ....

Dave
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Cogstar

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brilliant write up mate  O0  even with your sure footedness you must have had a wobble on that arete. You so should have asked the 3 guys on the ridge to do a Brucie for you  ;D 
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Peakbagger

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Would you say that arete is more dicey than Sharp Edge on Blencathra?? Sure looks it  :o

Just a tad more dicey... As Cogstar can confirm, I stroll up Sharp Edge like I'm walking down the high street but this ridge demands a lot more respect. The Black Cuillin are very unforgiving and you really need to keep your wits about you. Like I said, this was by far the hardest scramble I've ever done, and I've done quite a few! ;)

even with your sure footedness you must have had a wobble on that arete.

I wouldn't want to admit to any such thing publically! But between you and me there was one particularly tricky down climb that gave me jelly knees... ;)
Current Munro tally: 78 out of 282 completed so far.

All 190 Welsh Nuttalls completed.

amnesiacjimmy

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Just a tad more dicey... As Cogstar can confirm, I stroll up Sharp Edge like I'm walking down the high street
Whoa!!! even in wet conditions?  It did for me 2 summers ago lucky to be alive so i am a tad more circumspect these days  :o I take my hat off to anyone who does it. So god alone knows what it was like on the arete you did here.... Maximum respect!!!

Dave
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More stuff on Itunes:   http://tinyurl.com/3phvnla

Davejj

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Real heart in the mouth reading for me.... excellent pictures, nice to see places I doubt I will ever vist.
 
Great report  O0

Ian s

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Nice pictures. They do indeed capture the mood well.

Top tip for Cuillin Scrambling - get some leather gardening gloves. Very cheap, hardwearing, and plenty of grip when handling ropes for abseils etc. otherwise after 2 or 3 days on the Cuillin you won't be able hold a mug of hot coffee, or eat a pack of crisps without a spoon. wear them on approaches not just on crests as it's surprising how much one tends to use one's hands circumnavigating craggy bits and boulder fields. The skin on the heel of your hand wears through quite quickly without gloves.

Top tip 2- don't bother buying nice new kit for a Skye trip. bring gaffa tape.
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docpaul

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                :o
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       :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
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Amazing! Cojones ain't in it - you need the Men in White Coats for doin that sort of stuff solo!
 
That corrie was the site of my and my mates' Great Climbing-the -Wrong-Munro achievement when we ended up in thick thick clag on the top of Sgurr Dearg when we intended to be on Banachdich!
Fantastic to have the skill and confidence to solo a ridge like that - and as for "delicious degree of exposure" it's the kind of place that would give me persistent camera-shake.
 
Brilliant write-up and pics - thanks!
 
Paul
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Sometimes courage comes as a small voice at the end of the day saying,
“I’ll try again tomorrow.”

JulianC

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joester

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Sounds like you really went for it!
 
Well played, by the sounds of it I'd have found it rather desperate!
solvitur ambulando

mad max

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Flipping heck Mike,your the man.Brilliant write up and stunning photos of a absolutely stunning area,top effort. O0
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carolina2k9

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great pics mike, well done, it looked pretty hard going. O0
Happiness is only a Hill away :-)

Ian s

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same section of ridge, a couple of years back. this guy had suffered polio and his legs didn't work. respect O0

somewhere I have a video.. will dig it out

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garyr

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Stunning photo's despite the misty conditions, looked very daunting in several places, good stuff having a go at it solo O0
Gary

 

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