Day 1 – Sedbury Cliff to Beeches Farm (near Brockweir) - 10 milesAfter an early start my train arrived in Chepstow at 9-30am. I was hungry. I made a quick decision to jump into the only taxi outside the station and took a ride to within a few hundred yards of the start at Sedbury Cliff. After walking back a mile and a half to Chepstow Bridge, I veered left back into town and enjoyed a late breakfast in Weatherspoon’s before setting off on the trail proper.
It was an overcast day but dry, and the climb up above the Wye Valley soon had me warmed up, and before long I had re-joined the dyke in woodland high above the valley below.
The scenery was mostly hidden on this first day apart from an opening which offered a fine view of Tintern with its abbey from Devils Pulpit.
The dyke became more clearly evident in this section as brief spells of sunshine fought its way through the trees.
The farmer/campsite owner at Beeches Farm informed me that the pub in Brockweir was now closed for good and the next nearest place was a 40 minute walk away. In light of this I stayed on the site and had a Wayfarer’s “Spicy sausage and pasta” meal. My first experience of these meals, and while being quite tasty, one Wayfarer meal is not enough for this hungry hiker. Fortunately, I had snacks to complement it.
Day 2 – Beeches Farm to Monmouth - 14 milesThe rain was incessant overnight resulting in very little sleep. After breakfast and striking camp, the rain stopped briefly and I was on my way again. The respite lasted about ten minutes and then rained for the next four hours or so, although not heavily.
I took the low route alternative along the banks of the River Wye to reach Bigsweir Bridge before re-joining the main route and climbing up into the woods again high above the valley. There was a still, eerie atmosphere during this period with the only sound being a cacophony of birdsong.
A lone salmon fisherman on the opposite bank of the River Wye
There was a break in the weather as I broke out of the woods for the descent down into Redbrook, where I called into the village shop for lunch items, which I enjoyed at a picnic table in the small park opposite.
A long climb out of Redbrook followed where I met these two chomping on timber.
The long climb peaked at The Kymin, a hill overlooking the town of Monmouth to the west and Forest of Dean to the east.
Naval Temple on The Kymin
Round House on The Kymin
A steady long descent followed down into Monmouth, during which this oinker appeared to want to get to me.
Day 3 – Monmouth to Pandy - 18 milesMore rain overnight ensured another night of very little sleep. Donned in waterproofs for the second day running, it was a struggle to find my way out of Monmouth, but I was eventually on my way with a steep climb up into King’s Wood. A series of stony tracks and quiet lanes followed before a short stroll through the middle of an orchard, contracted to supply Bulmers.
Just after this the route became very muddy due to the rain over the past two days, including a trudge across three ploughed fields of thick red clay like mud, very hard going. I was hoping to have a rest and lunch when I reached White Castle. Unfortunately, the castle was closed so I sat on my sit mat at the gates and ate my lunch, in the light rain.
More muddy paths followed, and then one short but very steep climb into the small village of Llangattock Lingoed, where there was a pub open in which I enjoyed a refreshing cider in the garden as the rain had stopped.
The village church (there's a pub a few paces down the lane)
Pandy was only two miles away now, and mainly downhill. These fellas/fillies where enjoying the break from the rain.
It was a long days walk today with lots of ups and downs, but really enjoyable despite the rain and mud, and I felt I was really getting into the walk. However, I was really tired and opted for a bed for the night in the Rising Sun after two near sleepless nights in the tent. Great decision, and a really good nights kip.
Day 4 – Pandy to Hay on Wye - 16 milesThe weather promised to be brighter today. I even started the day without waterproofs on. It started with a long, long climb out of Pandy, and I was soon up onto Hatterrall Hill. The sun shone, aside from a couple of short hail showers. This was a great ridge walk, in amongst the heather and wild ponies, with expansive views east and west. There were some sections of paving slabs through the boggy bits, and one short section that resembled a “moonscape”.
Towards the end of the ridge, I chose to take the alternative route over Hay Bluff.
A very steep and narrow decent down from Hay Bluff was followed by a section of road and pasture land on the approach to Hay on Wye.
Day 5 – Hay on Wye to Kington - 16.5 milesI slithered out of my tent to another bright looking morning. It was a relatively late start for me today, so I was surprised to see a couple of lads getting their gear together after wild camping beneath the bridge over the River Wye just outside of town. It wasn’t long before they passed me on the first stiff climb of the day. I caught up with them at the church at Newchurch, taking advantage of coffee and biscuits inside, paid for through an honesty box. They were actually only doing a shortish section of Offa’s Dyke as part of their “LEJOG”. Good luck to them for the rest of their journey.
Leaving Newchurch, there was another steep climb up Disgwylfa Hill offering wide views all around.
The descent of Disgwylfa Hill eventually led to the village of Gladestry. I was looking forward to a break and a pint in the pub here, but unfortunately the pub was closed down (becoming a recurring theme). I had to content myself with lunch sat on the wall surrounding the pub.
Another long climb took me onto Hergest Ridge. This was another lovely stroll along the ridge. The grassy track was so springy to walk on. My feet were extremely grateful for this. There were wonderful panoramic views in every direction from here.
Suddenly from nowhere, a cluster of monkey puzzle trees appeared.
The path then started a steady descent down to Kington, where a long overdue pint was enjoyed before finding my campsite for the night.
Day 6 – Kington to “The end” - 4.5 milesYet again the day started with another steep climb out of Kington. It wasn’t long before I was re-aquainted with the dyke after an absence of about 50 miles.
After walking over Rushock Hill and the flank of Herrock Hill, I emerged onto a minor road and reached Ditchyeld Bridge. I’d been feeling a strain in my right Achiles tendon for the last couple of miles, and it was showing signs of getting worse. I had a sinking feeling in my gut that this was the end for me on this walk. There is no way I would have made it to Knighton, so I headed along the lane to the nearest village where I hoped to catch a bus or even a taxi to Knighton. A man doing some exterior work at the front of his house started chatting to me as I was limping past. I explained my situation to him and he very kindly offered me a lift to Knighton.
So, that was it. Game over on the sixth day. I booked myself into the first Inn I could see for the night and drowned my sorrows in the bar and restaurant.
Ironically, I was intending to have a rest day when I reached Knighton, but I now knew this was going to take more than one day to put right. I will definitely return to finish this wonderful walk as soon as I can.
Thanks for viewing.