Author Topic: An Teallach  (Read 8130 times)

seth

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An Teallach
« on: 17:03:02, 10/03/12 »
Going to try An teallach in early april weather permitting.
Was just wondering how hard it is compared to routes on the Cuillin, i did a few in the cuillin last august.
I did Am Basteir in the wet which was not nice, like scramberling on soap.
Next day did Sgurr nan Gillean by the tourist route, found that most enjoyable.
A few years earlier i did Sgurr Alasdair by the south-west ridge via the Mauvais Pas, i found the bad step very scary and comited.
Was thinking of doing An Teallach clockwise.
Any advice most welcome  :) 

sparnel

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #1 on: 19:50:35, 10/03/12 »
I believe clockwise (south to north) is the 'normal' way to do the route.
Never done it myself though........
It is a great day out!
« Last Edit: 20:04:01, 10/03/12 by sparnel »

gary m

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #2 on: 20:37:08, 10/03/12 »
been to the cuillin hills but never climbed them, sgurr nan gillean did look a challenge, i was talking to a few climbers and they said an teallach needs respect when i was last in scotland, so i am not much help to you, other than i was told it is an awesome mountain, i will look out for the trip report if you do one
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onebrownarm

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #3 on: 21:30:07, 10/03/12 »
Seth, mate, An Teallach is a wonderful mountain and go for it as soon as you possibly can. If you check the Brucies thread I'm the one in the horrible lime green jacket and her with the kite has been up there four times before without seeing anything. You can scramble the peaks if you like but I just walked round them with my munroing mates. Big day out, mind.

Peakbagger

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #4 on: 11:37:18, 12/03/12 »
An Teallach is nothing like the Cuillin. The Cuillin comprise of basalt and gabbro rocks. The basalt is smooth and can get slippery. It cuts through the gabbro rocks in dykes and because it erodes quicker than the gabbro it leaves huge notches in the ridge line which can require abseiling and climbing to negotiate. It's the basalt that leaves the impressive scree shutes such as the Great Stone Shute of Sgurr Alisdair and the An Dorus scree shute.

The gabbro forms the majority of the ridge and can be very sharp and rough on the skin. It's quite friable and can be prone to giving way without notice. In the Cuillin you need to check and double check every hand and foot hold before trusting your weight to it. Both basalt and gabbro are igneous rocks which means they formed as the result of volcanic activity. The Cuillin of Skye is probably one the best places in the UK to see lava bombs, there's thousands of them dotted about on the mountains.

An Teallach comprises of Torridonian sandstone which is a sedimentary rock. It's entirely different to the basalt and gabbro found on Skye. Instead of forming sharp pinnacles the sandstone is much smoother although the texture is rough like sandpaper. This means it doesn't get slippery even when it's wet. The drawback is any hand and foot holds tend to be smooth and rounded and don't feel as secure as a nice spike of gabbro. This makes scrambling over the pinnacles a bit hairy but if you're confident and take your time you shouldn't have a problem. Or the alternative is to avoid the pinnacles altogether by following the bypass path but that takes the fun out of the mountain IMO!

Either way An Teallach is a fantastic mountain and you'll have a great time. It's certainly one of my favourites. O0
Current Munro tally: 78 out of 282 completed so far.

All 190 Welsh Nuttalls completed.

jonathan

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #5 on: 12:47:17, 12/03/12 »
the crux of An Teallach is the Corrag Bhuidhe buttress and specifically getting on to it. Its exposed and as Peakbagger says is smooth and rounded. I think the climb goes at grade 3. Alternatively you can take the bypass path which is straightforward. The path meets the ridge just south Sgurr Fiona. From here you can easily walk back along the ridge to Lord Berkleys seat and the pinnacles. Theres no issue with any other part of the route
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sparnel

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #6 on: 12:59:20, 12/03/12 »
Seth  -  could you let us know if the above comments are of interest to you B4
anyone else posts..........

Ridge Walker

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #7 on: 16:52:57, 12/03/12 »
Hi An Teallach has been describe by many as Scotlands most beautiful mountain O0 
 
It's as described in previous posts.  There is a bad Step on Corrag Bhuidhe but can be avoided
Usual way is anticlockwise with the corrie on your left.
This makes the desent of the bad step which is a graded rock climb difficult. People have died here. Just retrace steps back to find a way down to the bypass path 
 
This way Just before reaching Saith Laith theres an alernitive well used path that drops down a gully to Toll an Lochain.  This gives spectacular views of the cliffs.  Tricky but well worth the efffort.
Its shown on the video link of the Munro Show below   

The usual way is from  Saith Laith down the broad ridge to join the stalkers path that drops back down to the car park

A Brill TR on here by greeman showing the bad step.  Looks like they decided to climb the bad step. That means they have done the route clockwise 
http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=1657.0

Also here's a vid from the Munroe Show done anti clockwise.  Enjoy  :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bw3o0clddUw
« Last Edit: 08:38:10, 13/03/12 by Ridge Walker »

angry climber

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #8 on: 02:56:20, 13/03/12 »
Seth  -  could you let us know if the above comments are of interest to you B4
anyone else posts..........

Shame because the guy has been given some really brilliant advice on here and has not been back to read it.
Never judge someone by the opinion of others find out for yourself.

Peakbagger

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #9 on: 06:44:40, 13/03/12 »
Shame because the guy has been given some really brilliant advice on here and has not been back to read it.

With the exception of the Meet Ups board, you can read any posts on this forum without having to log in. So for all we know he may have read the replies here. ;)
Current Munro tally: 78 out of 282 completed so far.

All 190 Welsh Nuttalls completed.

seth

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #10 on: 16:05:12, 13/03/12 »
Hi folks,
Cheers for the excellent info  ;)
Not had chance to post as looking after a family of five and a ten month old pup keeps me on my toes.
My first post was not very clear really, i should of been asking more about the crux on the buttress and the scrambling along the pinnacles.
The crux on photo's looks to be high end of grade 3.
The books i have dont go in to it in much detail.
Route i have been thinking of is start at Corrie Hallie then get on to the crag of Coir a' Ghiubhsachain a 3km marble stair case,
Then on to Sail Liath, do the Corrag Bhuidhe buttress hopefully
On to do the munros, then along the ridge of Glas Mheall Liath and descend the nose of this.
Weather permitting (still praying to the clear sky gods) as all folks say the mountain is at its best on a clear day.
looking forward to doing a TR.
 
 
 

Ian s

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #11 on: 13:12:10, 22/03/12 »
Hi folks,
..............................
The crux on photo's looks to be high end of grade 3.
The books i have dont go in to it in much detail.
.......................................

Yeah the crux is steep, rounded, and exposed even by it's easiest variant (graded Moderate), although it can be bypassed, as mentioned above.  The direct nose of the Corrag Bhuide Buttress is an intimidating, very steep, often greasy, although technically easy (Diff) rock climb with rounded holds. This has been the site of several fatalities over the years. Both options are definitely more tricky in descent, hence the clockwise route you describe being the prefered one as the route finding is more straightforward.

The Scottish Mountaineering Club's Guidebook "Highland Scrambles North" describes the route in some detail and has a couple of decent pictures which could be handy for identifying the line of the route.

One of the best hills in Scotland, scary if it's windy and certainly worth saving for a good day as the views and situation are incredible. Enjoy!
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seth

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #12 on: 12:37:03, 03/04/12 »
Cheers Ian
Spot on info, think i'll buy the smc northern scrambles sounds like a good read  O0
I will have a look at the crux if conditions are good, if not i'll just bypass and try another time.
cheers ant.

Ian s

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Re: An Teallach
« Reply #13 on: 16:07:16, 05/04/12 »
yeah the northern scrambles book is pretty interesting - covers both the well known routes and a good selection of less trodden ones also.


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