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Regions - Trip reports, destination advice, recommended routes, etc. => Scotland => Topic started by: richardh1905 on 10:29:25, 03/07/18

Title: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 10:29:25, 03/07/18


Orkney may not an obvious destination for wild walking, but there are many excellent shorter walks along cliff tops and across moorland that can be strung together to make a good day out. I’ve decided to share some of them with you on this thread. Here’s the first trip report:

 
Mull Head - so good that I did it twice! (28 & 30/06/18 )
 
Mull Head nature reserve is on the far eastern side of Orkney Mainland, on a peninsular called Deerness. Many tourists flock to see the Gloup, a yawning pit in the ground connected to the sea through a cave, but not many make it far into the reserve itself. Also incorporated into this walk is the Covenanter’s Memorial, located on a wild stretch of shore.


(https://image.ibb.co/kWgTKy/Mull_Head_Map.jpg)
 
I walked to Mull Head on Thursday with my wife, and enjoyed it so much that I went back and did a longer version of the walk on Saturday, incorporating the Covenanters Memorial; just me and the dog. I’ll describe my second walk; going clockwise (although the photos are from both).
 
After parking in the Gloup car park, I left the tourists behind and headed N up a farm track, past the visitor centre (toilets) and then left past some willow woodland, and on through arable farmland over the top of a slight rise (farm track not marked on the OS map, but there is a waymarked path starting at the car park). On Thursday afternoon we rescued this little fella by the woods; caught up on a barbed wire fence in the hot sun - recovered fine, I’m happy to report.


(https://image.ibb.co/hBXPsJ/Hedgehog_Small.jpg)   (https://image.ibb.co/kLydmd/Farm_Track.jpg)
 
I continued on over the rise, following farm tracks and flower strewn paths, through typical Orkney farmland; buttercups, cows - and wind turbines.

(https://image.ibb.co/dWcJKy/Buttercups_Cows_Turbines.jpg)   (https://image.ibb.co/i81HCJ/Ragged_Robin.jpg)
 
Turning right at the Covenanters Memorial car park, I followed a path down to the remote north shore. Whilst walking down the path, I was struck by the delightful realization that ‘this is what I do now’ (after taking voluntary redundancy and early retirement a few months ago).


(https://image.ibb.co/hQM66d/Covenanters_Memorial.jpg)

(https://image.ibb.co/bzwvzy/Plaque.jpg)   (https://image.ibb.co/mtLxey/North_Shore.jpg)
Covenanters Memorial                                              Looking west along the north shore of Deerness

The northern coast of Deerness has a remote feel to it, despite the first section being adjoined by farmland. The path heads ENE along the cliff tops towards the heather moors of the nature reserve. Once on the heather, the walk starts to feel really wild. Several delightful but inaccessible coves below.

(https://image.ibb.co/iLbjsJ/North_Shore2.jpg)
 
The highest point of Mull Head is marked by a trig point; a fine viewpoint, but I prefer the stone cairn right on the end of the headland (Chip of the Mull). The islands of Auskerry and Copinsay with their lighthouses can be seen from here (Copinsay below in the distance).


(https://image.ibb.co/ddYm6d/South.jpg)
 
Southwards now, and the coastal scenery becomes more spectacular; the path passes a horrible cleft in the ground, Riven Trangie, from which prehistoric bird cries echo and the stench of guano emanates. A forbidding but strangely fascinating spot.


(https://image.ibb.co/eb6TKy/Chasm.jpg)


(https://image.ibb.co/kcJm6d/cottongrass.jpg)
Cottongrass
 
The path continues southwards along clifftops and across moorland to the Brough of Deerness, a rocky headland upon which there are the remains of a Viking settlement and chapel. The path up is a bit rocky and exposed, and I didn’t take the dog up, but I do recommend it.

(https://image.ibb.co/fYcDmd/Brough_Deerness.jpg)


(https://image.ibb.co/kXE4sJ/North_From_Brough.jpg)
North from below the Brough of Deerness

From here it is only about half a mile over grassy heath to the Gloup, which you are unlikely to have to yourself unless you are early or late in the day. The Gloup is only a few hundred yards from the car park.


(https://image.ibb.co/doe4sJ/Gloup.jpg)  (https://image.ibb.co/jwdm6d/DogPower.jpg)
The Gloup                                                             Is it cheating to use dog power?
 
Distance - about 5.5 miles or so; allow 2.5 hours or more for photography, detours to the shore etc.


More to come soon :)
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney short walks
Post by: Jac on 11:14:01, 03/07/18
I really must make the effort to visit again. Lovely pics and yes, dog power a is perfectly legitimate way of ascending. Maybe not so useful when descending.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 11:22:01, 03/07/18

I really must make the effort to visit again. Lovely pics and yes, dog power a is perfectly legitimate way of ascending. Maybe not so useful when descending.


Thanks Jac.


Dog power can be downright dangerous when descending a steep slope!
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Mel on 21:54:13, 03/07/18
Lovely pictures and descriptions richardh1905.  I loved the cottongrass pic and the inaccessible secret cove  O0
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 22:23:23, 03/07/18

Thanks for the feedback, Mel. I took a close up of the cottongrass.
(https://image.ibb.co/dCo8Ky/Trufula_Trees.jpg)
Trufula Trees


Orkney can be stunning - just took this shot a few minutes ago:(https://image.ibb.co/mBkqZy/Evening_Light_St_Peters_Pool.jpg)
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: April on 23:18:25, 03/07/18
Nice pics Richard  O0 Looks like a great area, I know nowt about Orkney I have to admit  :)
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: sunnydale on 07:51:11, 04/07/18
That looks fab!  Just love the coast and always looking for new areas to explore O0
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: beefy on 08:22:50, 04/07/18
Lovely pics,
Looks like a great place to fly a drone  ;D
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 08:28:00, 04/07/18

Lovely pics,
Looks like a great place to fly a drone  ;D


Thanks for the feedback, beefy


People do fly drones in Orkney, and take some great shots, but you have to pick your day - it can be VERY windy! I was at an open day on an old WW2 airfield a couple of years back - drone display cancelled due to wind; not a particularly windy day by Orkney standards either. Most of the last couple of weeks have been perfect though. :)
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 08:38:08, 04/07/18

Thanks for the feedback, April, sunnydale.


Orkney is not an obvious destination for keen walkers, especially when you consider the effort needed to get here, but it can be very rewarding. Most of the walks are short, and not far from arable land, but there are exceptions:

- The island of Hoy is very wild; a day out as a foot passenger on the ferry over steep Cuilags, past the massive St Johns Head cliffs and along the cliff edge to the Old Man of Hoy, down to beautiful Rackwick Bay, and back to the ferry by the glen is one to remember, and no easy option (I must post a belated TR). Hoy great for wild camping - I fancy an 'end to end' trip with a wild camp at Rackwick Bay.

- Coastal path down the west coast of Orkney Mainland, from Brough of Birsay (tidal island) to Stromness. A long day, or a wild camping opportunity. This could be extended by starting at Costa Head.

- St Magnus Way - 51 miles through a variety of Orkney countryside. Participants are pilgrims, not walkers! (I intend doing this)

- South Ronaldsay is almost encircled by a coastal path; again I must try and do this; perhaps with a wild camp.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: beefy on 08:56:12, 04/07/18

- The island of Hoy is very wild; a day out as a foot passenger on the ferry over steep Cuilags, past the massive St Johns Head cliffs and along the cliff edge to the Old Man of Hoy, down to beautiful Rackwick Bay, and back to the ferry by the glen is one to remember, and no easy option (I must post a belated TR). Hoy great for wild camping - I fancy an 'end to end' trip with a wild camp at Rackwick Bay.
I'll look forward to this one  O0
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: fit old bird on 09:07:35, 04/07/18
Thanks for this, now I'm getting excited. I will be staying at my friends house at Birsay in September. Looking forward to it.  :)


ilona
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: adalard on 09:39:08, 04/07/18
Very enjoyable trip report and cracking photos, Richard.  O0


The coastline looks breathtaking and I loved the photo of the cotton grass - it's one of my favourite sights up on the moors around here.  :)
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: pdstsp on 18:47:00, 04/07/18
Great pics Richard - brings back many happy memories of a four day trip to these wonderful islands a couple of years ago.  We chose the easy option on Hoy of driving to the car park at Rackwick and walking up the Old Man from there - just wonderful scenery.  Mrs pdstsp wasn't keen on the idea of walking over from the ferry!
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Dovegirl on 22:04:51, 04/07/18
Great photos    :)    The coastal scenery looks wonderful
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 06:59:52, 05/07/18

Thanks for the feedback, Ilona, adalard, pdstsp, dovegirl.


Some particularly good walking opportunities from Birsay, Ilona; the coast is spectacular around there, particularly Marwick Head and the walk to Costa Head. Don't miss the Brough of Birsay either, but check your tide times - people do get stranded.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 07:24:13, 05/07/18


DINGIES HOWE TO ROSE NESS 04/07/18
 
The haar was swirling in on the easterly breeze, but I felt the need to get out as I had had a lazy day yesterday, so off I went with my dog, Tess; my destination for the day the clifftops to the south of Dingies Howe, and the Rose Ness headland further south still.
 
(https://image.ibb.co/ebOCHJ/Dingies_Howe_Roseness_Map.jpg)
 
Dingies Howe is one of the best beaches on Orkney Mainland, and I am lucky enough to live nearby, so no need for the car. Not at it’s best in the mist, though. From the beach I headed SW beneath some crumbling cliffs along a stumbly rocky shore; impassable at high tide; visibility poor with the cliffs looming out of the mist. Spotted some very long lichen growing on the rocks, a sign of good air quality.


(https://image.ibb.co/kxnHjy/Inauspicious_Start.jpg)   (https://image.ibb.co/jShiPy/Lichen.jpg)
An inauspicious start                                                                     Lichen
 
Also spotted a lot of plastic pollution, and, feeling zealous, I started picking up drinks bottles, only stopping when I could squeeze no more into my rucksack - 17 in all! I could easily have picked up twice as many from this short section alone. Although light; they did not make good walking companions - they creaked and scrawked as they rubbed against one another with every step that I took!
 
After passing below Stembister Farm, I climbed up a grassy bank and followed the coast southwards; the cliffs gradually increasing in height. I soon left the arable land behind and entered the land of cottongrass and heather; the haar may have hampered my attempts at photography, but it certainly added an extra feeling of remoteness to the clifftops.
 
(https://image.ibb.co/cgVgBd/Misty_Cliffs1.jpg)   (https://image.ibb.co/fZksHJ/Misty_Cliffs2.jpg)
Mist shrouded cliffs
 
The cliffs are home to breeding birds, fulmars and guillemots, and higher up I heard the call of geese, and was delighted to see goslings in the grass by the cliff edge - an example of why it is so important that people keep their dogs on a lead. These were Graylag Geese, which visit Orkney in huge numbers in winter before most of them head north in spring - but a few remain to breed.
 
(https://image.ibb.co/ipPmcJ/Clifftop_Gosling.jpg)
 
The cliffs were at their highest here, some 45m, and I descended southwards, following a flock of sheep (and their accompanying flies) that I drove before me along the clifftop path. Eventually some farm buildings appeared out of the mist, and, shortly afterwards, a path heading inland through the fields to my right; my return route.
 
I continued southwards along the shore, the haar thinning somewhat. I was now on the Rose Ness headland, which juts out into the North Sea at the southern extremity of Orkney Mainland. I passed the old stone navigational beacon, a strikingly geometric shape looming out of the mist, and then the current lighthouse; solar powered with an LED lantern, as are most lighthouses nowadays.
 
(https://image.ibb.co/gD6zxJ/Rose_Ness_Beacon.jpg)  (https://image.ibb.co/m8rA4y/Rose_Ness_Lighthouse.jpg)
The old and the new
 
And then, as if by magic, I was out of the mist! I continued round the headland, the cliffs being replaced by a cobbly shore, and then the beautiful Sands of Cornquoy; not a soul in sight.
 
(https://image.ibb.co/fRZKxJ/Bay_Of_Cornquoy.jpg)
 
A farm track headed inland, and became a road. It was starting to get hot now, so I gave Tess (and myself) some water at a minor crossroads - she can drink a lot! I took the minor road to the north, before picking up the path that I mentioned earlier and returning to the coast.

(https://image.ibb.co/kEX6cJ/Looking_Back.jpg)
Looking back to Rose Ness, the beacon on the skyline, South Ronaldsay beyond

Although I was retracing my steps, the walk back was an absolute delight, as the haar had lifted from even the highest cliffs, and I was able to indulge myself with the phone camera; the cliffs and sea stacks, of which there are several, are spectacular.

(https://image.ibb.co/fcexjy/Mist_Clearing_From_Cliffs.jpg)

(https://image.ibb.co/mpFRcJ/Highest_Cliffs.jpg)
The cliffs at their highest

(https://image.ibb.co/mvMA4y/Castle_Of_Claisdie.jpg)
Castle of Claisdie

The cottongrass looked even more lovely in the sun, quite the densest that I can ever remember seeing. Passed several sea stacks, and spotted a black backed gull squabbling with a bonxie (great skua) - the black back won, but we were buzzed by the bonxie!
 
(https://image.ibb.co/eot1Bd/Cottongrass.jpg)
 
Just after Stembister, I headed inland past a duck pond (Tess drank her fill, but the duck made a sharp exit). This route is useful if the tide is up and it is not possible to pass beneath the cliffs back to Dingies Howe. The minor roads took me through arable farmland; waving fields of barley; cattle and buttercups, with fine views to the north.
 
(https://image.ibb.co/eP4KxJ/Biggings_Road.jpg)
 
A couple of hundred yards of walking along the main road took me back to Dingies Howe beach; just a few tourists about (normally I have the place to myself). There is a public toilet here, and it is a good place to (semi) wild camp.
 
(https://image.ibb.co/jo2Hjy/Dingies_Howe.jpg)
 
The route described from Dingies Howe to Rose Ness and back again is about 9 miles long; I walked somewhat further as I walked directly from my house - how lucky I am to have this on my doorstep!
 
(https://image.ibb.co/mNHuWd/Buttercups.jpg)
Tess on home turf
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Jac on 07:39:12, 05/07/18
Another lovely walk - I enjoyed every mile and it looks like Tess did too!
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: fit old bird on 12:54:54, 05/07/18
All that open space, with hardly anyone about. That's my kind of walking. Thanks for posting, sending a link to this thread to my friend in Birsay.  Love your dog.


ilona
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Dovegirl on 13:25:12, 06/07/18
Enjoying your photos of Orkney    :)    The coast looks delightfully remote and peaceful
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 18:16:58, 06/07/18



Thanks again for your comments, Jac, ilona, dovegirl.


This wonderful section of coastline appears to be one of Orkney's best kept secrets; I have never met anyone on it, and there is hardly any sign of a path along the top of the cliffs to the south of Stembister farm. Nobody goes there - which suits me just fine  :)


(https://image.ibb.co/c25nnJ/Tess.jpg)
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Thedogsmother on 22:34:47, 13/09/18
I really enjoyed reading this post and looking at the pictures. What wonderful walks you’ve had.
When I visited I fell in love with Orkney and some day I’m going to return. I just loved the sheer open space and beautiful coast and the birdlife (I experienced the wrath of the Bonxies first hand!)
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Ridge on 09:26:30, 14/09/18
Great pictures and reports Richard, I don't know how I missed them in July.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: gary m on 22:17:19, 14/09/18
Lovely set of photos
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 08:49:28, 16/09/18
I really enjoyed reading this post and looking at the pictures. What wonderful walks you’ve had.
When I visited I fell in love with Orkney and some day I’m going to return. I just loved the sheer open space and beautiful coast and the birdlife (I experienced the wrath of the Bonxies first hand!)



Thanks Thedogsmother, Ridge, gary m.


Terns are worse than Bonxies - they will make contact!


I'll have to post some more walks and photos on this thread.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: vizzavona on 13:07:54, 16/09/18

I too missed this first time around.
I very fine island to visit although my own visit was very brief....a kind of whistles-stop tour that  included a visit to the Old Man with his creaking limbs an over night in the camping in Stromness followed by a day down on the sea cliffs of South Ronaldsay before getting the ferry back to John o'Groats.  I wonder where the ship carrying the captured Protestants was heading for...North America?  Brave souls who were trying to shake off the Papacy from their lives....fairly soon after following the rebellion a few decades later did this come about.
   I seem to recall when walking down to the cliffs that there was something to visit regarding an eagles tomb? I didn't have time to look at this. 
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 11:48:46, 17/09/18
Yes, there is a Tomb of the Eagles burial chamber in South Ronaldsay, also another one found nearby fairly recently, the Tomb of the Otters (they found otter bones in it).
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: fit old bird on 16:29:09, 18/09/18
Thanks for the feedback, Ilona, adalard, pdstsp, dovegirl.

Some particularly good walking opportunities from Birsay, Ilona; the coast is spectacular around there, particularly Marwick Head and the walk to Costa Head. Don't miss the Brough of Birsay either, but check your tide times - people do get stranded.


I'm back now. Marwick Head was great, I walked to the lighthouse, over the causeway, didn't get stranded, and my friends showed me a lot of places, we had some short walks. It was very windy. I wrote blog posts while I was away, now I am drip feeding them to my blog.
ilona
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 17:01:31, 17/01/19
A walk with the seals - Barth Head, South Ronaldsay

A belated trip report of a short walk on South Ronaldsay one fine sunny day in November last year.

(https://i.ibb.co/dgK5Brj/00-Map.jpg)

We parked near the end of the road at Sandside, and walked down the track to the shore, along a boulder fringed beach to the start of the cliffs beyond. These gradually increased in height as we walked south, and we started to see grey seals with their pups in the rocky coves below. Some real 'David Attenborough' moments as we cautiously approached the cliff edge to spy on them below, dog under strict control. We could hear their cries echoing off the cliffs, and spotted some interesting activity such as fin slapping and a pup suckling. Magical. We even saw one pup swimming in the sea with it's mother - unfortunately my phone camera not really up to capturing the moment.

(https://i.ibb.co/86VjBzN/01-Seals.jpg)
Seals on the beach, the Hoy hills in the distance.

(https://i.ibb.co/0MCjKYk/02-Swimming-Seal-Pup.jpg)
Mother and pup having a swim!

The views improved as we headed south, and I could make out distant mountains on the Scottish mainland - Ben Loyal, Ben Hope and beyond. I always experience a quickening of the pulse when I see these magnificent hills across the water from Orkney. Again, difficult to capture with a phone camera, but here goes:

(https://i.ibb.co/8r1pJB4/03-Distant-Mountains.jpg)
Dunnet Head, Ben Loyal, Ben Hope and the hills of the Far North West.

My wife and son turned back shortly after, but I carried on southwards with the dog, with the promise of a pick up at Burwick. A pity that they turned back as the coastline was getting more and more dramatic.

(https://i.ibb.co/4Ygr8YP/04-Barth-Head.jpg)
Barth Head into the sun.

(https://i.ibb.co/7kvBZy8/05-Park-Head-Stack.jpg)
Park Head and Stackabank - and more seals on the beach.

The path headed inland a short distance after this, to cross a burn, and it would have been possible to gain the shore here but I was mindful that the dog would panic the seals. The path then climbed up to Barth Head, which is a great tooth of contorted rock sticking out into the southern approaches of Scapa Flow. I put a spurt on as I did not want to keep my wife waiting at Burwick, so galloped over the remaining clifftops, which gradually diminished in height after Barth Head.

(https://i.ibb.co/z6pXyWQ/06-Barth-Head.jpg)
Barth Head from the south.

(https://i.ibb.co/VYWZGGT/07-View-South.jpg)
The view south towards Burwick, Pentland Skerries lighthouse just visible.

Arrived at Burwick ferry terminal just a few minutes before my pickup - almost perfect timing. A delightful 5 miles.

South Ronaldsay has paths around a lot of it's coast, and I plan to link all the paths together in springtime - a good 20 miles or so.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: April on 18:51:09, 17/01/19
Lovely shots Richard - especially the Park Head and Stackabank photo  O0
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Dovegirl on 19:32:52, 17/01/19
Great photos Richard    :)   

The geology looks very striking on the one of Barth Head from the south
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 23:32:09, 17/01/19

Thanks April, Dovegirl.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 08:11:52, 18/01/19
The geology is interesting in this area. The strata dip steeply down to the west on this section of the South Ronaldsay coast, yet just a few miles to the west on the island of Swona, and on parts of the east coast of South Ronaldsay, the strata dips down equally steeply to the EAST. And the rocks around Barth Head are strangely contorted - powerful forces of nature in action at some time in the distant past.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Ridge on 08:24:01, 18/01/19
More lovely photos Richard  O0
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Innominate Man on 10:03:26, 18/01/19
Fabulous TRs & photos Richard.
The views, geology, wildlife, sea-scapes & sky-scapes ++++++  is just fabulous. Any single item alone would be worthy of merit, but all together ... what a place to live   O0
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Jac on 10:27:48, 18/01/19
Gorgeous pics. Orkney has it all- geology, archaeology, birds, sea, music and space to breath.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 12:53:47, 18/01/19
Thank you for your replies, Ridge, Innominate Man and Jac.

I had a magnificent walk yesterday in a different part of Orkney, so another TR incoming very soon - I've decided to make more of an effort with them. And I've just been out for a lovely 8 mile walk with the dog today, the long way around to the local shop to get some bread and milk. Glorious sunshine.


..but there is a downside - the weather here can be utterly unspeakable on dark winter evenings, and the dog needs walking. Recently had gales gusting to 90mph - quite exhilarating to be out in (away from the clifftops, of course), good to get out, whatever the weather.


Edit - and I do miss forests and big mountains. Still - can't have everything, and a great sense of community here.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Oldtramp on 17:54:42, 20/01/19
Thanks, Richard.  A trip to Orkney is on the (ever-expanding) Bucket List, mostly to see the archeology.  But this is giving lots of ideas as to how to fill a week of walking.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 17:58:27, 20/01/19
Thanks for the feedback Oldtramp - glad that you are finding my posts useful.  :)
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 17:58:45, 20/01/19
Orphir Coast Walk and Ward Hill  - 17 January 2019

I’ve decided to up my game a bit in 2019 and take advantage of my early retirement by doing a lot more walking during a week - longer walks as opposed to the usual few miles with the dog. Being retired, and having all of Orkney Mainland within a short drive gives me lots of opportunities, and I’m planning to string together shorter walks into decent longer routes.

(https://i.ibb.co/xJHk8mj/00-Map.png)

I had been on a few such longer walks so far this year, but the weather had made the results of my photography lacklustre, or I didn’t think that the route was good enough to write about. However, after a night of being kept awake by heavy wintry showers rattling the Velux window of our bedroom, the morning dawned bright and sunny, with scattered showers; an absolutely beautiful day for a walk. After dropping my son off at school, I drove across to Orphir Village, slowly as the road west was covered in hard packed snow.

I parked behind the Kirk in the village, and walked down the snow covered single track road towards the coast, away from my ultimate objective, Ward Hill.

(https://i.ibb.co/SJMMrM9/01-Ward-Hill.jpg)
Looking back towards Ward Hill

Tess, our spaniel, was pulling like a train as usual, threatening to drag me off my feet on the snow covered road at times - she’s normally like this at the start of a walk, but does calm down. Beautiful views across Scapa Flow, with the sun casting rays across the sky from behind a cloud, and of the snow covered hills to the west, including the higher hills on Hoy. The road passes through typical Orkney farming country, grassy fields with wire fences and dry stone dykes, but then passes some small patches of woodland - wind contorted sycamores being the dominant species. I took a small diversion through one of these woods, before popping out onto the road again.

(https://i.ibb.co/F5xJdf1/02-Trees.jpg)
Trees do grow in Orkney !

At the end of the road there is a small car park, and a path leads through crofts to the shore. The shore path westwards was delightful, the sun was sparkling off Scapa Flow, and the views towards the snow clad Hoy Hills were spectacular. All was good with the world. This path is part of the St Magnus Way long distance path, that runs for 55 miles in 5 stages from the Broch of Gurness near Tingwall, to Kirkwall, inspired by the route that the remains of St Magnus were taken on their way from the island of Egilsay to Kirkwall Cathedral. https://www.stmagnusway.com/ (https://www.stmagnusway.com/). I like the idea that participants are ‘pilgrims’ rather than walkers, and I quite fancy doing the route over two days - a good challenge for me.

(https://i.ibb.co/3cxjHQW/03-Hoy-Hills.jpg)
The hills of Hoy from the coast path.

This short section above low cliffs ends all too quickly, and I descended to a shingly bay before turning inland to the remains of the Orphir ‘Round Kirk’ http://orkneyjar.com/history/or-chrch.htm, (http://orkneyjar.com/history/or-chrch.htm,) built in the late 11th or early 12th century. So much history in Orkney.

(https://i.ibb.co/d45jgth/04-Round-Kirk.jpg)
The remains of the Round Kirk

I turned west along a snow covered minor road, long shadows cast across it by the low winter sun, before reaching the ‘A’ road running between Kirkwall and the small ferry terminal at Howton, the site of a flying boat base during the war. The subsequent mile of road walking to Scorradale (marked Crya on the map for some reason) was the only real flaw in my planned route, but there was hardly any traffic - I was still glad to turn off up the hill at Scorradale though. The walk up the minor road through Scorradale village and the moors beyond was very pleasant - stopped to say hello to a horse poking it’s head out of some stables, and to admire some gorse in bloom. Behind me, views of Scapa Flow unfolded.

(https://i.ibb.co/kxp6Tfs/05-Scapa-Flow.jpg)
Scapa Flow from the Scorradale Road

At the top of the pass, there were fine views across to the town of Stromness, of the small island of Graemsay with it's two lighthouses, and of the hills of North Hoy (Ward Hill and Cuilags). A heavy winter shower was sweeping across Hoy Sound towards Hoy, a very dramatic sight. I was glad that it wasn’t coming my way as it looked quite violent.

(https://i.ibb.co/48MQrw9/06-Hoy-Hills.jpg)
Hoy Hills with heavy shower approaching!

I took an old peat road to the north, and then followed a path marked by a cairn to the right - this led me eastwards through heather up to the top of the Hill of Dale, all of 150m high, but a fine viewpoint nonetheless.

(https://i.ibb.co/wJBJnJw/07-Ward-Hill.jpg)
Ward Hill from Hill of Dale, rickety stile in the foreground!

I had to cross a taut barbed wire fence by means of a rickety stile, difficult with a struggling spaniel under your arm! My route north west was over trackless heather moor, but I soon re-joined the peat road, which skirted NE along the slopes of Gruf Hill, petering out before I reached a track running below Ward Hill.

(https://i.ibb.co/KLNdXRd/08-Ward-Hill-Dog.jpg)
The path to Ward Hill.

Another peat road tackled the slopes of Ward Hill directly, and after a short steep haul I emerged at the summit, which is marked by a metal cone on a post, an old navigational marker for shipping. Ward Hill at 268m is not quite the highest point on Orkney Mainland, that honour belongs to Mid Hill (275m), a half mile plod over featureless moorland to the north. I couldn’t be bothered, as Ward Hill is a much finer viewpoint, so I sat down on a heathery bank beneath the cone in the sunshine to have a quick snack. The Loch of Stenness and the farmlands of West Mainland stretched away to my right, with the lower coastal hills beyond. In front of me, I could see over the lower hills that I had walked over, to the hills of Hoy, and to the left was Scapa Flow, an oil rig moored in the distance, with the low South Isles beyond.

(https://i.ibb.co/Prk3ZwZ/09-Ward-Hill-Summit.jpg)
The cone at the top of Ward Hill

I descended quickly down the track to the junction, before turning east and descending past a firing range to Orphir Village, emerging onto the main road less than half a mile from my car.

An excellent circular walk of 8.5 miles, which took me 3 hours 15 minutes to complete.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: sunnydale on 19:59:15, 21/01/19
Another lovely set of photos Richard O0
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Ridge on 20:08:11, 21/01/19
Now with added pictures!
Looks an amazing place to live.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: vghikers on 20:55:32, 21/01/19
Great varied walks and clear pictures there, you seem to be getting some sunshine, more than here of late.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 08:05:46, 22/01/19
Thanks Sunnydale, Ridge, vghikers. :)

Great varied walks and clear pictures there, you seem to be getting some sunshine, more than here of late.


The weather has been variable, to be honest - this walk was on a particularly good day. I'm out every day - most days dull and cloudy, and my waterproofs have certainly been tested this winter!


And I expect that I'll get wet this morning as I head over the clifftops with the dog... ::) 
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Innominate Man on 10:28:27, 22/01/19
Great photos and I especially like the view from the coastal path across Scapa Flow to the hills of Hoy  O0
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: April on 13:21:58, 22/01/19
More fab photos Richard  O0

You have to be a bit more on the ball with this thread, more pics are added when you aren't looking  ;)
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 15:27:03, 22/01/19
Great photos and I especially like the view from the coastal path across Scapa Flow to the hills of Hoy  O0


Thanks Innominate - that's my favourite. It was a magical half mile or so.


More fab photos Richard  O0
You have to be a bit more on the ball with this thread, more pics are added when you aren't looking  ;)



Thanks April - I want to keep all my Orkney walks on one thread to make it easier for anyone planning on coming up this way to find them.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: pdstsp on 23:04:57, 22/01/19
Lovely stuff again Richard. I really do want to go back to Orkney , we only spent a few days on the islands but loved them, and you're reports are fuelling the plans.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 21:28:53, 23/01/19

Thanks pdstsp.


May and June are the best months - wild flowers at their best, very long days, birds nesting - and there's a folk festival on in late May, if you are into that kind of thing.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: Jac on 09:46:15, 24/01/19



Thanks pdstsp.
May and June are the best months - wild flowers at their best, very long days, birds nesting - and there's a folk festival on in late May, if you are into that kind of thing.



If you camp, be warned - in the long daylight of midsummer the birds take a short nap around 2330 hrs then the dawn chorus starts by 0100 and those oystercatchers are very noisy, luv em O0
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 22:03:08, 26/01/19
If you camp, be warned - in the long daylight of midsummer the birds take a short nap around 2330 hrs then the dawn chorus starts by 0100 and those oystercatchers are very noisy, luv em O0



I love lying in my tent listening to the birds in the night - curlews, lapwings - even the ****** oystercatchers  :)
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 15:47:20, 27/01/19
Kirkwall, Wideford Hill, Scapa Bay, Crantit Trail - 23rd January 2019

Despite snow showers being forecast I decided to go for a decent walk starting from Kirkwall. The weather was not ideal for photography, but I have decided to do a trip report as this route may be of interest to anyone visiting Orkney.

(https://i.ibb.co/B2cMBm1/00-map.jpg)

See the route on Viewranger HERE (https://my.viewranger.com/route/details/MjE4MDcyNA==?ref=58.969418064970995|-2.9804785900380466|13)

I parked outside the Pickaquoy Sports Centre, and headed off up a minor road to the west. This led to Muddisdale, where thousands of trees were planted about 20 years ago; nice to see them growing so well. The decent path then skirts a golf course and passes between fields before joining the Sunnybank Road. A short section of road walking led to a track that took me up to a reservoir, where some major works have being going on. A route to the right took me onto the open hillside, past a small radar installation - a reminder that Kirkwall is a working port. It was starting to snow now, and I could hardly make out the radio masts at the top of Wideford Hill.

(https://i.ibb.co/nk9m0TB/01-Wideford-Heather-Moors.jpg)
The heathery slopes of Wideford Hill

The path was boggy lower down, but soon led pleasantly through heather towards the summit. The snow eased, and I had fine views to the south and west.

(https://i.ibb.co/x5fp5Bn/02-Bay-Of-Firth.jpg)
The view NW; Holm of Grimbister and Damsay (the islands) with the snow clad Firth Hills beyond

(https://i.ibb.co/SmQfKWB/03-Ward-Hill-Form-Wideford.jpg)
Keelyang Hill (with masts), Ward Hill and Mid Hill beyond

(https://i.ibb.co/XbHc2D4/04-Scapa-Flow.jpg)
A lone oil rig in Scapa Flow

A faint path descends south from the trig point through more heather, but I soon had to join the minor road that leads down the hill - had to watch my step because of the snow! Past a messy farm then took a minor single track road that headed south towards Scapa Flow for a mile or so - was passed by only one car. I had to walk a short section of a main road but was soon able to turn off past the Foveran Restaurant (good but pricey), from where a track led down to the shore. This path is part of the St Magnus Way.

(https://i.ibb.co/Wzp00kM/05-Scapa-Flow.jpg)
Scapa Flow shore; a rusting winch

After a snack on the shore, I turned NE and followed the path along the low clifftops. I was delighted to see some primroses in flower, and also my first lesser celandine of the year.

(https://i.ibb.co/YPG6C9Z/06-Lesser-Celandine.jpg) Lesser Celandine

The path passes the Scapa Distillery before descending to the beach at Scapa. This is composed of beautiful fine honey coloured sand - a good opportunity for the dog to have a run and a dig.

(https://i.ibb.co/yXPQb9Q/07-Scapa-Bay.jpg)
Scapa Bay

(https://i.ibb.co/txdBqKP/08-Scapa-Beach.jpg)
Scapa Beach, Wideford Hill in the distance

My route turned inland here, past coastguard buildings then along the Crantit Trail though meadows. A mile skirting through the western edge of Kirkwall led me back to the car.

10.5 miles in 4 hours 15 minutes, a good way to spend half a day.
Title: Re: TRs - Orkney
Post by: richardh1905 on 22:43:38, 29/01/19
Binscarth Woods, Hills of Firth   28/01/19

Snow showers forecast but I couldn’t resist going out with the dog over a low range of hills to the north of Finstown - new territory for me.

(https://i.ibb.co/8Py1dvH/00-Map.jpg)

After parking in Finstown, next to the best burger van in Orkney, I walked up through the village and then took a snow covered track across a field to Binscarth Woods. This is the best patch of woodland on Mainland Orkney, planted in the mid 19th century (More details HERE (http://www.orkneycommunities.co.uk/OLAF/index.asp?pageid=593777)). The woods are a haven for birds and are delightful in spring time with masses of flowers, which appear in succession. The snowdrops were just coming out, but were rather lost in the snow!

(https://i.ibb.co/9gJkvT3/01-Binscarth-Woods.jpg)
Binscarth Woods

A path branches off the main stony track to the left - this follows a burn up through the woods, and is recommended in the summer, but it was a quagmire so I avoided it on this occasion. No matter - the main track up through the woods is very pleasant, but all too soon it joins the gravel road flanked by wind twisted trees leading to Binscarth House. After a few hundred yards, where the road takes a sharp turn to the right. a path continues straight ahead: this leads below a gorse covered hillside to the Loch of Wasdale. Instead of taking the path, I followed the road around the bend, and then went through a gate to the left just before the road enters the grounds of Binscarth House. This track climbed pleasantly up through rough grassland, zigzagging up the hillside, fine views unfolding as I climbed. There are a number of small quarries marked on the 1:25000 OS map - once I reached the start of the ridge I traversed off to the left to investigate a line of these small scale excavations. The only thing of interest was a carefully built conical cairn perched on top of one of the spoil tips.

(https://i.ibb.co/xSx41gT/02-Conical-Cairn.jpg)

Leaving the cairn, I struck out directly uphill and soon regained the crest of the ridge, which was easy going over short grass at this stage. The Hoy Hills looked very dramatic.

(https://i.ibb.co/tHbCGpt/03-Hills-Of-Hoy.jpg)
Hoy from Cuffie Hill

I passed a trig point just below the summit of Cuffie Hill, and soon afterwards entered the heather - this was short at first but soon the going became tough, a mixture of heather, moss and wiry moorland grass that ‘gave’ every time I stepped on it. No choice but to plod on, but the ground got even worse, and it started to snow, which gave the moors a very remote feel. No sign of any path whatsoever, and I enjoyed the feeling of being well off the beaten track, despite the hard going.

(https://i.ibb.co/P9q7dbR/04-Mad-Dog-In-ASnowstorm.jpg)
Tess enjoying the snow

Eventually I reached the top of Burrien Hill, disturbing a couple of grouse on the way, and then followed a line of fence posts to Rowamo, the snow easing. More rough ground led me to an ice fringed pool named Verigens on the OS map; a delightful spot in the middle of nowhere.

(https://i.ibb.co/xHv01rt/05-Icy-Lochan.jpg)
Verigens

It was downhill from here on, and I was looking forward to an easy descent to the minor road crossing the Lyde, but as I descended the enigmatically named Braes of Aglath, the heather got deeper and deeper, at times up to my knees. Again, no option but to keep plodding on. The vegetation changed, with first sedge and then dwarf willows appearing, quite a lush feel to it. After having to climb in and out of an old peat bank, I struggled across a bog and finally gained the road - what a relief!

(https://i.ibb.co/JsppJwB/06-The-Lyde.jpg)
Descending the Braes of Aglath to the Lyde road. Very rough going lower down!

I turned eastwards and the road soon began to drop down to Rendall. My route back to Finstown was along the quiet Redland Road, an easy and pleasant few miles running beneath the Firth Hills that was not without interest - quite a lot of tree planting has gone on here over the years, and there were good views across the Bay of Firth towards Wideford Hill.

(https://i.ibb.co/xDPVWpW/07-Lonesome-Tree.jpg)  (https://i.ibb.co/K5yZx6m/08-AFine-Beast.jpg)
A fine tree                                                                              A fine beast

(https://i.ibb.co/KrcFFXj/09-Bay-Of-Firth.jpg)
The Bay of Firth with Wideford Hill beyond

I was on a bit of a mission now as I wanted a lunch time burger; sadly I was to be disappointed, as the burger van was shut!

9 miles, tough going in places.
Note that the heather moors will be vigorously defended by Bonxies during the nesting season.