Walking Forum

Regions - Trip reports, destination advice, recommended routes, etc. => International => Topic started by: gunwharfman on 10:58:12, 17/05/17

Title: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 10:58:12, 17/05/17
I'm just back from hiking the GR4 route, I started at Grasse and finished at Manosque. My basic memories are of rocky paths, steep as you may like it, sunny days but cold nights, beautiful villages, great food, wine, cake and coffee. What more can a human being ask for?

I flew to Nice, then caught a bus to Grasse, the busfares are up this year from 1 Euro to 1.5 Euro's! Arrive at 2, had a meal and just started hiking. This time I wanted to try Tarp and wild camping! Well that did'nt work out, I will not be repeating Tarp camping (too basic for me) and only wild camped 5 times.

I met an English bloke on the bus to Grasse who lives there permanently, he looked and spoke like Allan Sugar but it wasn't him, told me he was into 'Finance'? The first advice he gave me was to watch out for the Wild Boar and the Wolves! Yea, right!

I had a meal and at about 2.00pm I started hiking. At near dusk I reached a small hamlet, St. Lambert, no one around, just a grassy area between the V of two roads with a couple of three seater benches.

I walked on up towards the top of a hill, lots of boulders, narrow rocky path and I zig zagged to the top. Just about to pitch my Tarp when I saw below me mooching under a tree, was four boar, two adults and two young ones! As I looked they started slowly moving towards me. I decided to head back down the footpath and then saw a small grassy area, I quickly pitched my Tarp. I then crept back up the hill to see where the boar were, they were still coming towards me. In single file shuffling along the footpath.

Well, I did the only thing a hero could do, I lost my nerve, gathered up everything and retreated back to the two benches area in the hamlet. It was now dark, the air was still, no clouds and silence! I decided to lay my groundsheet on a bench, blew up my Thermarest matress and got into my sleeping quilt. I slept until about one in the morning and then woke up cold. It fact it was bitterly cold so I put a layer of warm clothing on and went back to sleep.

At dawn I realised I was covered in frost, a really white crispy kind of frost. I didn't want to hang around so quickly packed, went back up the hill, not a boar to be seen and I walked until about 9am. The terrain was flatter at the top and aparts from the boulders there were many areas of nice dense grass. I lay down my groundsheet, hung my sleeping quilt over a rock to properly dry, had a shave a breakfast. By now the sun was fully out, it was hot so I thought I would have a short sleep. I woke up two hours later!

Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: Jac on 11:24:26, 17/05/17
to be continued.............................................?
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 13:44:52, 17/05/17
I'd like to but I'm still in a return from holiday muddle at the moment.

I did see this today - http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-39937822
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: vizzavona on 09:39:26, 18/05/17
Hello,
It would be good to hear more of your journey on the GR4....does it head out West towards the Verdon Gorge?
Just a wee question if I may.  We are heading out on a walk close to the French/Italian border and too have to catch a bus in Nice.
The gare routiere as we have seen on the web has been demolished.  We were familiar with this starting place for a bus to the airport after several visits to Corsica. Is it easy to find out now from where the buses leave from? and  did you have any problems with locating your bus to Grasse.   
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: Rather be walking on 12:20:29, 18/05/17
Quote
The first advice he gave me was to watch out for the Wild Boar and the Wolves! Yea, right!


We saw a few on the Camino de Santiago back in April this year (boars not wolves) ;).
I saw a couple on the Hangers Way in Hampshire last year.
This link is interesting or worrying http://www.wild-boar.co.uk/index.html (http://www.wild-boar.co.uk/index.html)


Title: Re: 2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: adalard on 09:21:12, 19/05/17
to be continued.............................................?


I'd like to but I'm still in a return from holiday muddle at the moment.


I'd definitely like to hear more if you have the time and when you've un-muddled. It sounds like your trip was quite the adventure!
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 09:36:15, 19/05/17
To answer Vizzavona. I walked out of the airport main doors, crossed a car park (nearly demolished by a taxi, my fault, looking the wrong way) crossed the main road and caught a direct bus to Grasse. The only problem is being able to understand the displayed bus routes, never my greatest of skills. Sorry no idea about the trains in the area, I'm sure there is a direct bus shuttle to the Gare, in my case I just wasn't looking for it. I mean a long scenic bus ride for 1.5 Euros, who would even think of using a train?

I'll finish my little tale beginning today. I actually took photos and this time I want to see if I can master the art of putting them on the screen. Always failed before.
Title: Re: 12 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 18:07:50, 19/05/17
Sorry still not worked out how to show a photo? Anyway I carried on walking, absolutely beautiful day. Eventually got to Cipieres about 1.00pm, a small village with a few restaurants so I decided to have a meal, a salad this time, it was excellant and I broke my rule not to drink during the day and ended up drinking two large glasses of red, 4 Euros, great! As I was leaving I heard two English blokes talking so I wandered over and said hello. Within a couple of minutes, one of the men who lives permanently in the village told me to beware of the Wild Boar and the Wolves, "lots of incidents" etc. Well this wasn't helpful to my confidence at all.

I set off again, I could see another village about a mile away, Greolieres, as the crow flies so near, but to get there I had to descend into a deep wooded valley, cross a small bridge and ascend a steep, steep trail to get there. Took me two hours, at the top I was so hot and exhaustive. It was the wine that done me in!

I eventually, after a short exploration for a bar and decided to have a coffee and cake. The young french waitress was very friendly, realised I was hiking the GR4 and immeadiatly warned me about Wild Boar and Wolves and large shepherd dogs which the farmers had imported to protect their sheep. It was getting worse, were these people just winding me up because I am a tourest or should I take them seriously?

The young woman said that an English lady owns a Gite just down the road. Before I had a chance to blink she had phone, the lady had a vacancy for 20 Euros, am I interested? At that I caved in and said Yes.

I trotted off to the Gite (lovely) and the first thing the English lady said to me was beware of the Wild Boar and Wolves! A very nice place so during the evening I had a good think about how I would proceed from the morning, this Wild Boar and Wolves thing was beginning to ruin my holiday! To follow...
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 13:21:50, 20/05/17
I decided that I would stopp looking to wild camp but stay on bona fide camp sites, I was not going to spend the rest of my trip worrying about animals! I hiked on from the Gite, another beautiful morning and most impressive hiking country. By one I had hiked to a cafe near to a winter sports station, it was open but the rest of the area was closed. Just as I started to eat and drink my coffee and cake the heavens opened!

It rained and it rained torrents and became very foggy. I also discovered a new problem, I was running out of Euros and there was not one anywhere for miles and miles! So I made a decision, the route that I was supposed to follow was now in thick fog, it was raining hard and I needed money. I had already noticed signs in different places saying cash only so I decided to bow to the inevitable, I decided to walk west on the road D802.

This road, if you were a motor cyclist would be a dream, wide, very smooth surface and wonderful lazy and fast bends. If it was in the UK it would be crowded with bikes but on the road I walked it was totally empty, I saw one motor caravan in an hour! After a few kilometers I came to a roundabout, so decided to hitch. Two cars later and I was whizzing towards Castellane. I was dropped off and a few minutes later I was in another car, dropped off again and then into another car straight into Castellane and booked into their Municipal site, almost in the town centre. Even if I admit it myself I'm really good at hitchhiking.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 13:38:23, 20/05/17
My decision meant I had got ahead of myself by four days, I wasn't that pleased with this at the time but I needed cash. In fact by the next morning I realised that getting to Castellane was a blessing in disguise, after studying my map I could see that this was a good base to stay at few a couple of days and because I wanted to give the Gorge of Verdun a good going over it became central to what I wanted to do, which was to walk down into the bowels of the Gorge and to walk its length!

I started first by walking from Castellane to Rougon, again very attractive countryside and for some distance felt that great feeling of being isolated from the world. Challenging rocky footpaths at all times but on first seeing the Gorge du Verdun all I could mutter, was Wow! One minute I was in ordinary undulating rocky countryside and once around a particular bend, there it was, this huge scar on the landscape, as if someone had taken a jagged knife to the earth and ripped it apart!

It was very exhilarating at this point!
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: adalard on 14:23:15, 20/05/17
Even if I admit it myself I'm really good at hitchhiking.


And at cliffhangers...  ;D  I'm thoroughly enjoying your TR and I like the way you've done it in episodes (or chapters, like a novel in a Victorian periodical).


I have to head out now so I leave you poised at the head of the gorge, though I'll be wondering all afternoon what happens next.


I'm sure it didn't feel so at the time (and I would have been very uncomfortable personally) but the repeated warnings from everyone you encounter to beware wild boars and wolves begins to take on a faintly comical air, rather like something from an old B&W horror film.  :)
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: alewife on 17:57:15, 20/05/17
You need to put your pics on a hosting site (fb will do, noone on there needs to see them, or any other like tinypic, then copy image  from fb, or link from other hosting site). I have made it sound complex, it isn't!


Enjoyable read even without piccies O0
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 12:51:20, 21/05/17
Your right, Adalard, in hindsite it does sound like an old B movie routine. By the time I arrive in view of the Gorge I'd put all of those warnings behind me.

I carried on walking in blazing sunshine, the Gorge was showing me all sorts of views and I was really enjoying it, I was on a nice track but dominated to my right by a panorama and numerous walking possibilities. I soon reached a small hilltop village called Rougon, which has a wonderful little eating place, I was served with others in the garden, set on what felt like the top of the mountain with views that stretched miles! I spent over an hour there luxuriating in the hot sun, scoffing cake and just watching the world around me. Very nice!

The beginning of the bottom of the gorge walk that I was aiming for lay a kilometer below me, so eventually I plodded down a winding, steep and narrow footpath to the road, that made my feet and toes tingle! I'd arrived so I just sat and had a think. It was now late afternoon so I decided to find a campsite, which I discovered was three kilometers down the road. I felt lazy so hitch hiked, the second car stopped and ten minutes later I was signing in and shortly after was pitching my tarp.

It was here that I met George and his wife, Jane, both retired, both English but had worked, lived on and owned a an industrial barge in Belgium for 25 years. Their life story was fascinating. They were now travelling around Europe in a VW motorcaravan. They plied me with tea, coffee and wine, I was most grateful!
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 14:34:28, 21/05/17
(http://s9.tinypic.com/29dj095_th.jpg)

This is my first attempt at posting a photo. I hope its the correct size? This is my first morning view, everything below was covered in frost and was rapidly melting as the sub rose.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 14:36:20, 21/05/17
Well that didn't work, I'll try again

(http://i65.tinypic.com/29dj095.jpg)
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 14:37:57, 21/05/17
I did it! My camera was my Motorola Moto 2nd Edition. I'm so chuffed, phots and computers have always been a mystery to me, maybe now Ill improve?
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 14:40:58, 21/05/17
(http://i65.tinypic.com/fualw1.jpg)

I decided to have one night in a Gite, very comfortable and just 300m from a bar. Perfect.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 14:47:26, 21/05/17
(http://i66.tinypic.com/15qvztl.jpg)

I'm on a roll now. Two villages, so near and yet so far if walked. The gite was in the village to the right. The village on the left was where I had a lunchtime meal and then regretted having day time wine!
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: alewife on 16:08:18, 21/05/17
Well done on mastering the mystery that is posting pics on here. Great pics, make me feel homesick (though have never actually lived there ;D ).
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 16:35:22, 21/05/17
Thanks Alewife, yes its a beautiful area, few people until Castellane, which I then stayed at for a few days. Once I awoke from my camp, George kindly drove me back to the base of Rougon which is les Lauves, the point where the gorge walk starts or finishes, the Point Sublime. I decided it would be my finish, so I hiked to la Palud sur Verdon to stay the night. Only a small place but I had a great time, drinking, eating and meeting climbers. Sometimes I wish people wouldn't buy me drinks because the next morning I had a BIG hangover!

I had already determined that this was going to be the day when I would walk at the bottom of the Gorge du Verdun, it would take about 6 hours, so I was told. I set off from the village and the first few kilometers was roadwalking, it was so very hot and sunny. Eventually I came to my starting point, the Chalet de Maline, its a bar, a place to eat and a good resting point. My feet at this point were burning! I think the walk I was just about to start is called the Sentier Blanc Martel.

I'd thought about hiking this walk for years. My wife and I drove to the area in the 80s and although we explored the area we did little walking, I always told myself that one day I would be back.

The Chalet de Maline starting point for me was the right decision, it meant that I was going to walk towards les Lauves, which had a bar, hotel/restaurant and a camp site nearby. If I had walked from Rougon to the Chalet de Maline I would have found nothing else there other than this building and a Gite next door but I did not inquire about it. I stopped for a while, massaged and cooled my feet and had a couple of cups of coffee, some apple tart and cream before setting off.

An hour later and I was ready!
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 16:42:24, 21/05/17
(http://i63.tinypic.com/mbs761.jpg)

The Chalet Le Maline, the start of the walk back to the Point Sublime.

(http://i66.tinypic.com/mcwubk.jpg)

The warning is useful, the walk proved to be demanding and intersting.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 21:06:19, 21/05/17
An interesting and impressive walk. It was a hot day and I decscended on a zig zagging rocky path. I thought I would end up by the rivers edge at the bottome and walk alongside its bank. No, it didn't happen like that. The path stayed a fair distance away from the river and was undulating, through small woods, rocky boulder areas and up and downhill. Boy, it was hot down there. I walked and walked catching one vista after another and high cliffs towering above me. Eventually, I came to a real upward path, I was perspiring from head to toe. At the top of this steep hill, the cliffs were still way above me even after I made this climb. I then had to descend down a long metal step system, put there by the local authority. I counted about 250 steps and then gave up, I'm sure there are about 400 of them and every so often a small rest area. Being May it wasn't too busy but in July I bet its mayhem, some going up others going down!

(http://i65.tinypic.com/qn2wm1.jpg)

Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 21:09:13, 21/05/17
Sorry, I've got out of sequence. The sky picture was when I arrived at Riez a few days later, it was a brilliantly sunny morning, the are was still and I had to walk through clouds of dandelion spores, hence the white specks, for a while I was covered in them. It was a very odd experience.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 21:12:48, 21/05/17
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2060dab.jpg)

This is a view, looking up. I wasn't even half way when I took this.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 21:16:17, 21/05/17
(http://i64.tinypic.com/29ohg6p.jpg)

There were two or three places like this, obviously thousands of years ago I presume this curve was made by the river water, now its the footpath, the river itself is far below to my right.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 21:21:20, 21/05/17
(http://i67.tinypic.com/9i93tk.jpg)

This was good fun. Very necessary to have a torch, if anyone fancies hiking this gorge route, please remember to have one with you. I had to walk through two unlit old miners tunnels, the first about 300m then the longest one nearly a kilometer I think. Very dark and in places water dripping through the ceiling as well. If you have kids they would be scared and exited all at the same time!
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 21:32:00, 21/05/17
After the second tunnel I walk on a soon came to the end of the walk, up some stone steps and rested for a while in a car park. I was really done in! If you are ever in the area please ensure you don't miss this hike, you would never forgive yourself!

After a while I knew I had to climb up again, a sign said 15 minutes to the top so off I plodded. It seemed to be a lot longer but eventually the path forked. I turned right because it said , bar up ahead! I clambered up and then heard cars and there right in front of me was a small pizza/bar. What an ending, the owner saw me coming up the bank and he shouted "Beer, Monsieur?". I nodded and waved and said "Oui, Oui" He knew my need!

I downed two large beers, wonderful!

So for me, now what. I decided to hitch back to Castellane. 20 mins later and my tarp was up. I had a shower and it wasn't long before I strolled into town and had a meal, plus wine. I slept very well that night.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: Jac on 21:33:04, 21/05/17
This was good fun. Very necessary to have a torch, if anyone fancies hiking this gorge route, please remember to have one with you. I had to walk through two unlit old miners tunnels, the first about 300m then the longest one nearly a kilometer I think. Very dark and in places water dripping through the ceiling as well. If you have kids they would be scared and exited all at the same time!

Not just kids! :o Up to that point I thought this was a route for me :(
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: alewife on 22:46:20, 21/05/17
Sounds amazing. Sadly not sure I'll ever have the opportunity, or the nerve, to do a hike like this (unless we make a wf meet up there  :D ). glad you mastered the pics, very interesting.

Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: adalard on 09:43:44, 22/05/17
Sounds like a great hike through some fascinating scenery and it was great to see the photos too. What a beautiful view to wake up to on that frosty morning, just lovely!


And the gorge looks really interesting as well. There are some similar effects of eroded rock in Chee Dale here in the Peak District.


Thoroughly enjoyed the trip report, thanks for sharing your experiences.  :) O0
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 09:54:38, 22/05/17
Then I really embarrassed myself! It was a sunny hot morning and I was feeling 'grey' and had a headache as well! Too much wine the night before? I decided I would hitch back to La Palud. The first lift took me to the Point Sublime area again. It was now hotter and I was not feeling too good. I got in a second car, the driver was smoking, his car stank of stale tobacco, the roads were very windy and he drove fast! About 5 km on I had to say to pull over, he did and I threw up into the kerb! So embarressing, I bet he thought typical Brit abroad?

After Le Palud I did a long day hiking to Moustiers, a very touristy but also a very attractive village. My first task was a camp site, the owner let me sleep on a wooden veranda, which was also a covered area as well. It was a palace compared to my tarp. I had the use of a chair, a table, a sink, running water, plus electricity to charge all my stuff.

I then had a good look around the village, very nice, I found an excellent little restaurant tucked away in what I would call an alleyway, run by four young women. They were charming and as I sat and listened to them chatter they were also very sporty, climbing, mountain bikes, road bikes and so on. Certainly an evening to remember. I never did find out if they were staff, or if one or more owned the place?

I then went back to the site to sleep, it was so comfortable and for once a warmish night. Until that night the previous ones had ranged from very cold to just cold.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 10:14:53, 22/05/17
I've never attempted a trip before so please indulge for a couple more entries.

I then started to hike towards Riez, by now the main mountains were behind me, I was now in more undulating country and there came a point after a couple of hours where I had to make a choice, follow the GR4 to Ste Croix du Verdon or follow the GR4 Varient. I chose the varient because I was now becoming aware that I need to be in the right place to catch my Marseille flight home. The varient route was in fact very nice, I walked through miles and miles of lavender fields, all neatly laid out in rows.

If I felt confident that I had the time I would have walked towards Ste Croix du Verdon. I did have the time in reality but did not realise this until a couple of days later. I arrived in Riez, an old Roman place, now looking a bit jaded and booked onto another site. Then I did the same old routine, walked into town, had a wander around first then a meal and wine, then back to the site to sleep.

The next morning was hot and sunny (again!) so off I strolled. After about an hour out of town I had a 5 second scare! Like so much of Southern France and in the Pyrenees, the local farmers use special large sheepdogs to guard their flocks, I was told that more have been imported since the increase in the Wild Boar and Wolves population.

I saw a flock of sheep ahead but luckily in a couple of minutes my path veered away from them. Without warning a large white sheepdog came bounding towards me, barking very aggressively! My heart missed a beat or two, I'm never happy near dogs but by now had got onto the diverted footpath my back was now turned to him. He came within 6 feet of me, barking, I thought I was going to have major trouble but he then stopped. I just carried on walking, I sideways glanced back and could see he was returning to his mates! Phew, I felt really lucky!
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 10:34:48, 22/05/17
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2dspndl.jpg)

Not sure if this is real Roman or has been erected just for tourists?

(http://i68.tinypic.com/j6okkn.jpg)

These rows of lavender may look boring but in reality they are very attractive and the aroma is so dominating.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 10:46:36, 22/05/17
A long but fairly easy walk today to Greoux les Bains. As I walked I really thought it was Sunday, I did not realise untill later on that it was Saturday, somehow I had lost a hiking day? So I started to hurry to ensure that I arrived in Manousque by Monday morning to catch a coach to Marseille airport. I arrived in Greoux les Bains to find it was a real turist destination, old small town, a river, loads of camping sites and dare I say it, very chic!

(http://i63.tinypic.com/bh0qyq.jpg)

Just a curve in the road in Greoux les Bains, but if you are ever here, go to the bakery, just to my right. Heavenly croissants and all types bread and cakes!
I felt in a hurry only stayed a short while and felt I had to get to Manousque so I hitched. The driver spoke very good English and it is because of him that I found out that it was Saturday and not Sunday. I couldn't believe it at first but when he dropped me in the car park of a large supermarket the penny had dropped!
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 10:57:30, 22/05/17
He drove off, I was on the edge of the town and faced the possibility of killing time for two days before my coach. Within a minute I decided what to do, it was only about 5.00pm so I immediately hitched back to Greoux les Bains and decided to indulge myself in the town. I was back in about 30 mins, irritated with myself, yes but I felt better her that wandering around the larger town of Manousque.

I found a municipal cam site and organised myself and my stuff and hid my rucksack in a dry ditch, fed up with carrying it today. I wandered into the small town. It had one main walking street and it was bustling and lovely, so I had my evening meal and this time had four glasses of wine!

(http://i66.tinypic.com/2ueoac3.jpg)

Before my meal arrived the waitress bought me this, no idea what it was, just seeds on the top and below a youghurt type stuff, with a trace of alcohol in it I think. She indicated that is was given to customers to stimulate their appetite. It was delicious!
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 11:30:53, 22/05/17
The next morning I resumed the GR4 and walked into Manousque, again an old Roman town. I didn't like it one bit, it was scruffy and dirty, the townspeople that were serving me was a bit like being in the UK, surly and/or smart arsed waiters trying to hassle customers to eat drink and move on! There were also so many drunks and drug addicts around, sprawled over the pavements, begging and staggering around, for me I even had a youngish woman offering me 'you know what' whilst indicating we should go up an alleyway together.

I decided this was the night for a hotel which looked good from the outside but in reality turned out to be a Travellodge type building and dingy as hell. The sheets were clean though, the water was hot and breakfast was good.

I found a good restaurant that evening which made up for the hassle I had been getting earlier so I had a meal and then strolled back to my hotel and slept like a log.

The next morning I had a short stroll to the train station and I caught a coach to Marseille. Only one more little 'bit of fun' to report! It was a luxury modern coach, air conditioned and almost full. I sat near the middle just opposite the steps that led down to the exit door. We were on the motorway when an elderly gentleman from a front seat slowly got up and walked slowly towards me. He had that expressionless look that some people have who are suffering from Parkinsons Disease, and when he reached me he turned and started to descend the steps. At the bottom step there was a door on the left into a small toilet and he couldn't open it. So without any hesitation he just decided to have a wee right there and then! A French middle aged couple in front of me started shouting at him and called out to the driver. He could not stop, we were belting along the motorway and he had a timetable to follow! The old gent did his business, tided himself up and slowly wandered back to his seat. He did not comment, did not acknowledge anyone around him, smile, glare or anything else, he was serene in his own world. A couple of passengers were not happy especially when the acidity pee fragrance started to drift through the coach and started to make our eyes water.

A few kilometres on and the problem was solved, the driver stopped at Aix to let passengers off and he emptied 2L of water onto the bottom step. We then drove to the airport, I waited and then caught the plane back to Gatwick.

My hike didn't go fully to plan, but except for one day the weather was wonderful and I had great fun hitchiking around the gorge du Verdon area. The walk at the bottom of the Gorge was my highlight and I am so very glad that I made the effort to do it.

One good thing bit of learning for me, I will not be Tarping again! Too basic and not enough to offer over a tent to make it worth while to do again. Never mind it was a good experience. A great hiking area.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: alewife on 19:53:38, 22/05/17
Your earlier pics have now gone awol via tinypic, did you delete them from their site?
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: DevonDave on 22:32:53, 22/05/17
I have really enjoyed reading about your trip.  Many thanks for posting.   O0
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: adalard on 09:28:35, 23/05/17
It's been great following your hike and the adventures along the way. Sounds like you had a really enjoyable (and varied!) trip, even if plans changed on the hoof. Thanks for writing it up and sharing the photos. :) O0
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: glovepuppet on 10:45:23, 23/05/17
We're off to France in a couple of days - walking the GR65 from Conques to Moissac.  :)


Thanks for your TR - it's really got me in the mood for a bit of French hiking!  O0
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 11:12:19, 23/05/17
Yes I did take them from the Tinypic site, I wasn't sure if I should leave them there or not?

I hope you have good weather Glovepuppet. I really enjoyed my section of the GR65 last year, from Le Puy en Velay to Figeac, all the best things in life, good food, wine, cakes and nice people.
Title: Re: !2 days Hiking the GR4, France
Post by: gunwharfman on 11:33:26, 23/05/17
Just some final thoughts. My equipment performed well, my Osprey 48L was excellent, enough space for all my stuff and clothes and as always very comfortable to carry. My 'almost new' Brasher Superlites were almost perfect, comfortable and just enough ankle grip to keep me stable on the rough rocky paths. I used a Sea to Summit folding bowl for the first time, why have I never taken one before??? Ideal for washing my clothes and for soaking my hot feet, absolute bliss! My new Anker battery boosted my phone at the end of each day and didn't itself need charging for a week. Its only slight downside is that it weighs 12oz. I took two bamboo baselayers with me, they were good, wicked away sweat very well and although I washed each one every second day they did not smell, they took some time to dry though. I think they are better for our type of cooler climate, next time I'll stick to synthetic ones. As usual I used municipal campsites when ever I could, they can be so much cheaper than other types.

I used the Sity Trail app as my map, all of the GR routes are clearly displayed and I had no trouble with following the routes at all. The routes are displayed in dark blue, fine for most people I'm sure, but for a colour blind person like me I would have preferred to have been able to change the colour to yellow, but never mind, it worked well and thats what matters most.

Lastly, if like me you prefer to pay by cash, top up at Grasse, as far as I know there isn't a single cash machine around until Entravaux, about 4/5 days away, or at Castellane which is about 7/8 days away. Not sure how many places will let you pay by card in between these places?