DAY 10, FISHGUARD+ to ALLT-Y-COED
Distance: 36,5 kmTime on trail: 6:00 – 17:00Allt-Y-Coed Farm 5£A beautiful morning was inspiring and with full of energy, I headed onwards.
I had dried my shoes and socks well during the night – but for nothing! The trail was so narrow that all the moist grass around made my feet wet again in no time. And the whole tour around Dinas Island was absolutely full of sheep and cow waste. But I saw porpoises. Near Needle Rock, which was full of sea birds, two porpoises swam along the bay, their dark backs glimmering in the morning sun.
Despite the nice sight, my mood went worse as it began to really hurt my feet. My body was sensing how the end was drawing near and it wanted to give up already. I expected to have a long break at Newport before starting the last official section, but it was cold and rainy again. I ate quickly and kept going, grim look on my face.
There are more than 500 gates along the Coast Path, and now only 36 was left. The end was close!
But the last 20km were supposed to be the toughest on the whole trail. It was the most beautiful section too and fortunately I left the rain behind. At Witch’s Cauldron I kept a longer break, and even if at first it felt like doing more harm for my tired legs and hurting feet, they warmed up one last time.
The last few hours went in a flow, not really feeling any pain but the sweet taste of a victory. I climbed the flanks of Foel Hendre like in my best days in the Alps. It was easy to smile at Cemaes Head, near the Allt-y-Coed campsite.
DAY 11, ALLT-Y-COED to CARDIGAN
Distance: 8,5 kmTime on trail: 8:00 – 9:40On the last day I walked to the official end of the trail and then to Cardigan. As soon as I boarded a bus to Carmarthen it began to rain, and in Carmarthen it was pouring with water. I waited long hours before my train towards London Gatwick arrived.
SUMMARYI had high hopes for this hike and in some way I felt a bit disappointed in the end. The weather wasn’t the best, of course not the worst either, but compared to the sunny and warm spell just before my trip, I couldn’t help but to feel slightly unfortunate. The constant wind really got on my nerves and made the evenings very chilly. The other minus factor was the total absence of fellow long-distance hikers and the feeling of belonging to the community of hikers. It was perhaps too early of the season or bad timings, but I was the only hiker camping in all of the campsites! The trail felt also few days too long. I think it would work best as a hike that could be done in a week.
But nevertheless it’s a beautiful trail with plenty to see. And if you’re interested in birds and wildlife, you’ll get even more out of it. Just remember to bring small binoculars!