Pennine Way, north to south, camping with dog (Stanley)

[Uncle Grumpy]

Having recently completed the Pennine Way, I would like to share a few of my experiences which may assist those planning a similar trip.

DOGS. Don't be put off by the confusing sinage, there are numerous places where 'no dogs' could halt your progress. I bravely ignored these signs, put Stanley on his lead and prepared myself for arguing the toss if challanged (thankfully I wasn't)

WEATHER. Don't trust any forecast trying to predict more than 3 days weather, they are wholy unreliable. April was bone dry followed by 3 months of wetness, who predicted that?
We can only hope for decent weather, we must never expect it. It rained.

ACCOMODATION. Apart from a night in the dog (and people) friendly Cumberland Hotel in Alston (due to prolonged and heavy rain) I camped. The wild campsites were memorable, the official campsites were not. I was charged 12 quid (!) to pitch my little tent at a Bellingham site (south of the town where an old school was) It was full of top-of-the-range caravans and you needed a PIN number to get into the bog. This place is not recommend to grizzled long distant walkers with shallow pockets.

PAVING. Paved sections are good insofar as they protect the countyside and provide reassurance when navigating in poor weather. But, they are unyielding and are punishing on dodgy knees, ancles and hips. Crossing Great Shunner Fell along many miles of slabs caused me some ankle discomfort, by the time I arrived in Hawes I had developed a Ministry Of Silly Walks walk and hobbled to a chemist for an ankle bandage and Iboprophen gel.

MOTOR BIKES. There's evidence of illigal trail biking on some sections of the route, especially over Marsden Moor between Blackstone Edge and Wessenden. I urge the walking fraternity to be aware and note registration numbers (usually removed or covered in mud) If possible, phone Marsden Moor Estate Office (National Trust) 01484 847016 then maybe something can be done about these fools who ruin the countryside.

MAP AND COMPASS. I refuse to use the GPS on principle, preferring the old map n' compass as navigational tools. The pennine Way often vanishes ('no visble path') so there is still plenty of opportunity to use good old fashioned mountain craft skills.
Bleaklow is the easiest place to loose yourself, even in clear weather.

STANLEY. Managed the walk admirabley, I got him some doggy bags (off tinternet) so he could carry some of his food (and some of mine) He became a something of a celeb everytime we walked into town. The bags were very useful although getting him over some of the huge stiles in the Yorkshire Dales was challanging.

CONCUSION. Great experience, it took me 2.5 weeks to complete with an unscheduled stop-over day at Crowden due to foul weather (the day that flooded Sheffield) with damaged tent, dripping dog and sunken spirits I sought shelter in the big posh Youth Hostel but it was locked (don't rely on the YHA to provide shelter for the bedraggled) Fortunately the campsite had a shop, drier and wash house to shelter in. 

We're hoping to do the Coast to Coast in September, foot and mouth and weatherpermitting.

[Deerplay]

Well done. You should be awarded extra credit for doing it in the weather we've had. I've done the PW in mixed conditions and know how dispiriting the rain can be.

[Snowman]

Yes well done Uncle Grumpy, and I absolutely applaud your determination not to succumb to the seemingly overused GPS.    I find it interesting that some walkers will maintain their 'green' credentials while using up large quantities of batteries on something that in my opinion is dangerous to rely on.

I've never done the Penine Way, and was a little put off when I went up Black Hill a couple of weeks ago, using the Penine Way path to get there.    While I wouldn't have wanted to do that walk without the slabs due to the mud, I wouldn't want to do a walk that relied on them so much.   Your information was therefore very useful and has been noted.

I took my dog (GSD) when I did the 2 Moors Way, and she absolutely loved it.   And what great walking companions they make too.    The only trouble was that she hogged the tent a little.

Anyway, a very useful post so thanks for the info.

S.

[Uncle Grumpy]

Thanks for your replys chaps. Just as a footnote, I must add that it didn't rain continually for 2.5 weeks (although it seemed like it would at times) There were glorious moments when the sun made an appearance, notably as I dropped down into lovely Swaledale and  the last few miles into Edale where I sat in warm sunshine on the village green to brew up (after I'd been for a celebration pint)
I got used to pulling on wet socks & boots each morning and the sunshine was never prolonged enough to properly dry thing out. When rain came along it was lavish and torrential.
One of my memorable campsites was just north of Hadrians wall at Twice Brewed where in monsoon-like conditions (but colder) I pitched up inside a deserted giant marquee. a tent within a tent: sureal and almost restord my belief in The Almighty.

On the GPS. A lot of people I passed going north seemed to have them, one lady showed me all sorts of swanky functions then the batteries failed. I showed her my trusty compass and pointed her in the right direction.

Dogs. Stanley's bad habbit was shaking inside the tent, with unfortunate consequences, apart from this he was a terrific walking partner.
The Pennine Way Officialdom needs to sort out whether or not dogs are 'allowed' the current situation is confusing.

[summitzero]

Well done Uncle Grumpy

Also good write up. I like the C2C, so i hope you will like it too, for me it had that little bit extra.

[kkm]

good write up....brought back fond (?) memories.

must admit we had gps with us, but i think we only used it 3/4 times in 10 days, and that was when we really were lost, and after using compass and maps. i was glad to have it as a back up, and was a security blanket, knowing that if we had an accident i could at least get a grid ref very easy. trying to get someone to rescue us might have been a little more difficult if i couldn't get a signal on the mobi....

we did the walk 2 weeks after you and it was still very wet 

and i agree with the slab sections. very necessary to preserve the land, but bloody hard going on the feet....

[titaniumdude]

Just got back from the PW and had a great time.  Great write up unc.  The stretch to Hawes is the most punishing on the knees and ankles.  I too had to bob into the chemist as an old knee injury had become aggravated (unfortunately I'm allergic to ibuprofen though).   Congrats on taking the dog, though as I understand it the signs forbidding dogs only apply to the access land and you still have a perfect legal right to take your dog on the permissive footpaths that pass through this land ( a good thing to know if confronted).  It's the cattle and particularly the bulls that stopped me taking mine (she's a very curious staph and prone to upsetting them).  As for GPS, I used mine every day and never got lost.  I don't have a problem with technology, though it was always the compass that sorted out the real navigational dilemmas.  You got charged twice what I did fro camping in that Bellingham site and although I agree that it was more geared to caravan toting ultra campers the facilities were excellent (though it was a mile to the pub).  As for weather I lucked out at the beginning with 6 days of pure sunshine.  Then it rained almost continuously.  Hail being blown horizontally over a Cheviot ridge at about 50mph was memorable.  It's still a great trail though.

[summitzero]

T/Dude

Welcome back and well done