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Main Boards => Long Distance Walks => Topic started by: Vincent82 on 17:00:48, 18/02/20

Title: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 17:00:48, 18/02/20
After doing some research and some thinking, I think I'll try to walk the West Highland Way this year, end of May or beginning of June.


I'd do it in 8 days. The 7 days schedule has a 20 miles day and I think this is too much for me. The Cicerone book and the West Highland Way website show different stages for the 8 day options though.


Has anyone done this walk and has any piece of advice?
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: harland on 17:07:40, 18/02/20
The 7 days schedule has a 20 miles day
It is under 100 miles unless you are going the Great Glen Way as well.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 17:09:39, 18/02/20
Yes, I only meant that if I tried to do it in 7 days, there would be one very long day. So I'll have to do it in 8 days. I've never walked for 8 days before (or 7).
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: gunwharfman on 17:32:15, 18/02/20
I don't remember it as a very hilly walk so for me it was easy enough to make good progress, if you are lucky enough to have good weather then that will be real bonus for you. I think I did it in May, so no midges around. I camped and had no problems with finding a place for the night. One site I remember but not the name, had a restaurant in the middle of it and the Way came directly into it as well. That was good.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 17:38:58, 18/02/20
I won't be camping, but yes I'm hoping for good weather, otherwise it might not be that enjoyable.  And for such a distance I was also looking for something not too hilly, and there's still Ben Nevis at the end, if I feel like doing more.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: watershed on 18:37:46, 18/02/20
Hi Vincent, I am sure you will love it. I did it last July with a mixed ability Church group. We all loved it. It is a great choice for your first multi day walk, 4 out of eight of us hadn’t done one before. Each day is different as the scenery evolves, it just gets better each day as you head North. As GunWharfman (GWM)says there are no massive climbs (By experienced Hill walkers standards) but it is a notable challenge. Our group found the stretch along Loch Lomond the Hardest, as the path is undulating and a bit rougher and broken up than you may have anticipated. The main thing there is just to take your time and watch your footing on this section. The camp site GWM mentions is probably Beinglas and it was a good stop. We stayed the night there and enjoyed it. If you aren’t camping I would advise booking all your accommodation very soon as May is the busiest time and will soon be booked out.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 19:18:07, 18/02/20
That’s useful information thank you! I didn’t expect the bit near Loch Lomond to be the hardest so that’s good to know.


I’ve done some multi day hikes before (three of them) but not that long, and one of them kind of failed :-)
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: vghikers on 20:51:25, 18/02/20
Quote
I think I'll try to walk the West Highland Way this year, end of May or beginning of June.

Doing the WHW at that time of year, I hope you like company!. There will be an awful lot of people on the route from all over, if not camping I second the advice to sort out accomodation well in advance, like now maybe.

We did it in January over seven days, four of those alone, much better  :) That was wild camping though.
It is a great route, I hope the weather is kind for your trip. The Loch Lomond section is relatively time consuming, picking its way up and down over tree roots etc, but overall the route isn't strenuous.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 23:03:06, 18/02/20
I’m going alone so I don’t mind it being busier at this time of the year. Everybody seems positive about it so it should be good!
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Birdman on 08:59:45, 19/02/20
I walked the WHW last April (solo, camping) as walk-in for the CWT. It is a great choice, especially if you have limited experience with multi-day adventures. When I hiked it in mid April it was not too crowded yet and there were no midges.


It's generally an easy trail. The Loch Lomond shore is the hardest section. The descend from Devils Staircase into Kinlochleven can be a bit harsh on your knees, so take it easy there.


l found it a quite social trail. For many walkers on the WHW it is their first multi-day adventure and they are excited about it. So there is a great atmosphere. I was also surprised how many people I met from outside the UK: Swiss, Belgians, Serbs and even a group of young Brazilian ladies.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: gunwharfman on 10:19:18, 19/02/20
For me, the hardest part of the walk was at the very beginning, even before I set one foot on the route. I arrived, identified my pitch for the night and then wandered into town. I wanted to eat, all of the places that looked good were full up so I wandered along to find a pub that served food. In the end, I had to go to a pub which served horrible food, which I ate because I was so hungry. This pub also had a visiting disco, the compere was middle-aged, raucous and drunk, and because I come from the South and he came from Glasgow I couldn't understand a word of what he said. At the same time all around the bar, there were about 6 TV's, they were all switched on showing a football match and their volumes were also at full blast. Everyone around me was swilling beer, including me, some people were dancing, some were looking at the football, some were doing both and everyone had to shout at each other which included shouting a beer order to the bar staff. I had three pints that night, one more than usual because in its own way the whole scene was amazingly entertaining. That evening for me was MADNESS and when I left my throat was raw and my whole head was buzzing and ringing with the noise and intensity of it all! One memory is still with me, there were 'hundreds' of cigarette butts on the pavement as I left. I had a good time though but obviously I was only an observer of what was Saturday night live.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 10:39:41, 19/02/20
Thank you for the last responses.  The main issue seems to be the hotels. I've checked two places, and some of them don't allow reservations for one night only, and they're all super expensive (£200-300). I'll look into it a bit more.


That's at Kingshouse. Check in is on specific day only, minimum 2 nights, for a total of 560 pounds. That's a bit mean...


Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 11:14:02, 19/02/20
Good time of year, but watch out for the midges! I was eaten alive at Beinglas in June 2018, quite the worst that I have ever experienced!


(https://image.ibb.co/fVERvJ/Midge-armageddon.jpg)

Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 11:16:55, 19/02/20
Thank you for the last responses.  The main issue seems to be the hotels. I've checked two places, and some of them don't allow reservations for one night only, and they're all super expensive (£200-300). I'll look into it a bit more.


That's at Kingshouse. Check in is on specific day only, minimum 2 nights, for a total of 560 pounds. That's a bit mean...


Ouch! You could buy a very nice tent for that kind of money!
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Birdman on 11:17:31, 19/02/20
Thank you for the last responses.  The main issue seems to be the hotels. I've checked two places, and some of them don't allow reservations for one night only, and they're all super expensive (£200-300). I'll look into it a bit more.


That's at Kingshouse. Check in is on specific day only, minimum 2 nights, for a total of 560 pounds. That's a bit mean...


You wrote that you don't want to camp, but for that money you can already buy quite decent camping gear. Perhaps you should reconsider! :) . That would also solve your problem with the 20 mile hiking day.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 11:31:22, 19/02/20
I have no experience with camping while hiking. Would that be wild camping (is that allowed?), or camping at specific places?  I think that might be a bit too much for me, and too heavy.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Birdman on 11:38:04, 19/02/20
BTW: you wanted  to follow a 7 day intinary

WHW4   ITINERARY (7 DAYS)   DISTANCE
Day 1   Milngavie to Drymen   12 miles
Day 2   Drymen to Rowardennan   15 miles
Day 3   Rowardennan to Inverarnan   14 miles
Day 4   Inverarnan to Tyndrum   12 miles
Day 5   Tyndrum to Kingshouse   19 miles
Day 6   Kingshouse to Kinlochleven   9 miles
Day 7   Kinlochleven to Fort William   15 miles

Tyndrum to Kingshouse is the longest, but it is not a very tough day. I found it quite easy walking.

Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Islandplodder on 11:39:12, 19/02/20
You could try the Kingshouse bunkhouse, it's ridiculously espensive for a hostel but better than the hotel. The other thing you could consider is using the bus. I am gradually doing the WHW and GGW as a series of 1 and two day walks.   I stayed a couple of nights in Crianlarich, caught the bus down to Ben Glas farm, walked from there to Bridge of Orchy (though I could have stopped at Tyndrum, I was going to see how I felt) and picked up the bus back to Crianlarich.  The next morning I caught the bus up to Bridge of Orchy and walked up to Kingshouse.  Doing it that way would also solve the minimum 2 nights problem.  A surprising amount of the WHW is accessible from the bus that goes down the A82.  If you book it they will look out for you rather than speeding past the stop.
I sympathise with you about the camping.  I know that carrying the extra weight would detract a lot from my enjoyment of the walk.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Birdman on 11:48:44, 19/02/20
I have no experience with camping while hiking. Would that be wild camping (is that allowed?), or camping at specific places?  I think that might be a bit too much for me, and too heavy.


You can wild camp (not at Loch Lomond), but there are also commercial campgrounds. There is a paid campsite at Loch Lomond. By The Way in Tyndrum is a cheap and nice campground (nice hot showers too! and drying room). Glencoe mountain has a paid campsite (hot showers and drying room too). You can also camp near Kingshouse.


I didn't follow the WHW exactly because I made a detour to see lekking Black Grouse, but camped at By The Way and Glencoe mountain campsites. The other places I camped wild.

Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 12:00:16, 19/02/20
Ah yes the bunkhouse is much better (£35-45) thank you.


I'll look into 7 days then. I was being safe with 8 days. I think camping would be too much, but I'd definitely try it for a shorter hike. It must be a good experience too, but I'd rather do that with someone joining me.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Birdman on 12:08:09, 19/02/20
Wild camping along the WHW (Tigh-Na-Sleubhaigh) :)

I have a walk report of my WHW + CWT walk from last year. It's mostly about the CWT, but it may still be interesting for you:
https://www.hikingbirdman.com/cape-wrath-trail-via-west-highland-way/ (https://www.hikingbirdman.com/cape-wrath-trail-via-west-highland-way/)


(https://www.hikingbirdman.com/Web/WHW_Day5_2.jpg)
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 12:22:03, 19/02/20
wow that's very impressive! 540km and great pictures.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 13:31:50, 19/02/20
I have no experience with camping while hiking. Would that be wild camping (is that allowed?), or camping at specific places?  I think that might be a bit too much for me, and too heavy.


Appreciate your concerns about the weight - not everyone's idea of fun to lug 10kg+ of kit. But you do get used to it, and weight can be pared down, especially in summer.


Wild camping is allowed across most of Scotland - the main exception unfortunately being the area around Loch Lomond. But you could easily 'mix and match', camping on sites, wild camping and hostels/hotels. I've semi-wild camped just across the river from the Bridge of Orchy Hotel, and also near the Kingshouse in the past. I have also stayed at Beinglas a couple of times recently, quite decent, with bar and food available on site (beware the 'bellybuster" 12oz burger). Very popular with West Highland Wayfarers - we saw a lot of backpackers.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 13:32:31, 19/02/20
That's a gorgeous photo, Birdman - will take a look at your Trip Report later.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: whitmore177 on 14:28:51, 19/02/20
I completed it a few years back in five days (never again!) and the stretch along the Loch I found the hardest day also.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: watershed on 21:13:34, 19/02/20
You could check out the baggage transport shuttle service which would allow you to camp but not carry it
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: janner on 16:03:22, 03/03/20
I walked the West Highland way last April over 8 days, but found the 9 mile days to short. I decided then that if I walked it again I would walk it in 7 days missing out Inveroran. The 19 mile stretch between Tyndrum and Kingshouse is relatively easy as there is only one hill to speak of coming out of Bridge of Orchy. I am walking the way again this April and I will be staying at the Kingshouse Hotel for one night, £99 when I booked and paid last October. They also have a bunkhouse were you may be able to book a 2 bedded room for solo occupation. I would give them a ring as they are more likely to accommodate you rather than going through a booking agency. There is also the Glencoe Mountain Resort nearby where you may be able to book a pod for the night. I would recommend getting the Trailblazer book The West Highland Way by Charlie Loram, its packed full of information and maps.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Mel on 19:31:38, 03/03/20
I'm following this topic with interest as I'm looking to do the WHW next year and hoping to do it in 8 days of indulgent luxury (luggage transfer and B&Bs) in memory of my second 49th birthday.


Let us know what you decide and how you get on Vincent82.  A trip report and pics (if you can fathom out how to post them on here!) would be great  :)



Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 13:53:51, 04/03/20
Sure, I can do that.


I've booked it now. It was a bit difficult, lots of places are already booked and I had to change the dates a few times. I'm going beginning of June, and I'll do it in 8 days.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Slogger on 15:30:27, 05/03/20
BTW: you wanted  to follow a 7 day intinary

WHW4   ITINERARY (7 DAYS)   DISTANCE
Day 1   Milngavie to Drymen   12 miles
Day 2   Drymen to Rowardennan   15 miles
Day 3   Rowardennan to Inverarnan   14 miles
Day 4   Inverarnan to Tyndrum   12 miles
Day 5   Tyndrum to Kingshouse   19 miles
Day 6   Kingshouse to Kinlochleven   9 miles
Day 7   Kinlochleven to Fort William   15 miles
Some years ago we followed Birdman's itinery above. The last day Kinlochleven to Fort William, I left my lazy mate in bed and set off at 5am, arriving in Glen Nevis, I removed most of my gear from my rucksack and put it in a bin liner, then hid it in the forest. I ascended Ben Nevis, descended, collected my gear and arrived at our B&B just a few minutes later than my mate. He missed a fantastic sunny day on the mountain.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: richardh1905 on 15:53:48, 05/03/20
A fitting end to a fine walk, Slogger.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Bigfoot_Mike on 19:09:26, 05/03/20
Was that 15 miles followed by ascending Ben Nevis? That is quite a long day.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: harland on 20:32:37, 05/03/20
Was that 15 miles followed by ascending Ben Nevis? That is quite a long day.
Not for Slogger!
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Jac on 07:20:17, 06/03/20
Twenty years ago, younger and fitter we revised our itinerary to 6 days - having met up with a group of friendly RAF guys. Opportunity to good to miss :)

Milngavie - Drymen
Drymen - Rowadenan
Rowadennan - Inverarnan
Inverarnan - Bridge of Orchy
Bridge of Orchy - Kinlochleven
Kinlochleven - Ft William

Then up the Ben on the following day - a scorching hot day with glorious views, no snow even on the top.

I'm glad the finish point has been changed. ending at a roundabout or, worse, in a queue of OAPs for the toilets of the Edinburgh Wool Shop was something of an anti-climax. Now, of course I'd fit right in :)
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 07:54:05, 08/03/20
I'll also have a day in Fort William (possibly for Ben Nevis), but I'll decide then.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Slogger on 15:20:21, 08/03/20
Was that 15 miles followed by ascending Ben Nevis? That is quite a long day.
Yes Mike, correct. Allowing enough time, hence the 5am start from Kinlochleven, as I said to my pal, it's just one foot in front of the other and you get there.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 06:56:11, 15/03/20
I've booked 9 nights for June but now wondering if I'll still be able to go ahead with the trip. If two or three hotels cancel, I'll have to cancel the whole thing. Maybe these days wild camping will be a better option?
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Slogger on 17:05:43, 15/03/20
I've booked 9 nights for June but now wondering if I'll still be able to go ahead with the trip. If two or three hotels cancel, I'll have to cancel the whole thing. Maybe these days wild camping will be a better option?
Yes, do however check on that. There have been restrictions on wild camping along the WHW, especially Loch Lomond waterside path.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Mel on 23:03:22, 15/03/20
Why would the hotels cancel?
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 00:20:47, 16/03/20
Because of the virus. If it gets bad I think some might close for a bit (and also the issue of travelling by train from London). I realise there are more important things, but hiking might be one of the last things to do (if it doesn't involve travelling).
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Sevenup on 08:02:35, 16/03/20
I think the virus is likely to close down bits of the UK. Tourism to Scotland is already dropping and travel restrictions in and out of the country will have a negative effect on business. Some of the smaller hotels will struggle to survive imo. Looking at other countries, internal travel bans and home ‘confinement’ appear to be amongst the tools governments are using to try to minimise the spread of the virus. Uk is around 12 weeks behind Italy. Having said that, peak virus is suggested to be late May to mid June if we continue as other countries have. If small hotels can’t keep staff and if the staff can’t stay healthy I can see them closing for the virus period even before possible government advice in the future to stay at home.


I was hoping to do some of the Munros between Corrour and Dalwhinnie but not sure if I will get caught up in any travel restrictions in early May. Wild camping on the WHW might be the ticket if I want a walk in the first half of the year but I might not get anything until after June.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 18:54:10, 16/03/20
Wild camping might be the only out-of-home activity now. Living in London, that leaves me with the North Downs Way. That's not as exciting as the West Highland Way...
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Sevenup on 19:03:32, 16/03/20
Yes. The big problem for anyone from your area will be getting north without risking train or plane as infection ramps up. One way car hire might be expensive but it could get you to Glasgow or Ft William. Of course you’d need to do the same thing on the way back from your destination. The alternative to WHW would be a circular route into knoydart using the Cape Wrath Way going via glenfinnan and returning by the Loch Ness Route.
You could also isolate yourself in a sleeper to do the same thing. I don’t think you’ll come in to contact with too many people in the west highlands but I’m not sure if you could carry enough food
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 19:14:18, 16/03/20
To be fair, I think I'll have to cancel if it doesn't get better. But for those who live outside of big cities hiking would be a way to escape this, if it safe to leave their house without much contact with other people.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Owen on 20:52:22, 16/03/20
The alternative to WHW would be a circular route into knoydart using the Cape Wrath Way going via glenfinnan and returning by the Loch Ness Route.


A few years back a group of friends and I did a kayak trip into Loch Nevis. While we were at Sourlies we meet a couple who thought the Cape Wrath Trail was an extension of the WHW, which they'd done the year before. They started in Fort William, they'd been lost in Glen Desarry for three days. They were wet, cold and exhausted. Their feet were very sore with big red blisters. They made quite a pitifully sight.


The WHW is a well made footpath with waymarks, cafes and guesthouses. The Cape Wrath Trail has none of these. It's more of a concept than an actual trail, especially in Knoydart. The two are chalk and cheese. There's no easy way out of Knoydart once your in there and it gets the worst of the west coasts weather.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Sevenup on 20:56:22, 16/03/20
That’s a fair point
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Mel on 21:33:49, 16/03/20
Because of the virus. If it gets bad I think some might close for a bit (and also the issue of travelling by train from London). I realise there are more important things, but hiking might be one of the last things to do (if it doesn't involve travelling).


Mystic Mel says it'll be all over and done with by June.



Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Owen on 07:28:11, 17/03/20

Mystic Mel says it'll be all over and done with by June.


I do hope so, I've a flight booked for the end of July. Fingers crossed SAS don't go bust before then.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 10:08:37, 27/03/20
Where are you going Owen? It is a hiking trip?


I've received emails from hostels saying they're closing for now. I read on this forum that YHA is closed until 31 July.

Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Owen on 10:17:31, 27/03/20
I was going to walk from Narvik to Sarek but I cancelled my flights on Monday. It's not likely we'll be traveling again before then.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 14:39:18, 27/03/20
I went to Abisko last year, which should be on the way. It's beautiful there. Hopefully you will have a chance to go when it gets better.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Owen on 17:27:58, 27/03/20
Yes, Narvik is just over the border from Abisko. My route would have crisscross between Norway and Sweden before crossing Sarek to kvikjokk.  It might be possible I'd guess to go in the Autumn if things improve. Certainly be less mosquitos then.


Another option would be a ski tour, we'll just have to wait and see.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 09:43:25, 19/04/20
Hi, so I've looked at the Loch Lomond national park website and it looks like the restricted areas for wild camping are quite small, and it's possible to get a permit anyway. Has anyone done that?


Not sure it would make a difference though, I think my June trip will be cancelled and it would be too difficult to go this year.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Vincent82 on 11:48:26, 18/06/20
It seems that hotels (and tourism) would start again on 15 July in Scotland (and 4 July in England).  Has anyone considered going on the WHW or other long distance paths this summer using hotels?


I'm a bit worried that they take bookings now but cancel later if they are not ready to open properly.
Title: Re: West Highland Way
Post by: Mel on 13:42:55, 18/06/20
I think they are ready to open already (“covid compliant” seems to be the buzz word) – they’re just waiting for the nod from the government (hopefully next lockdown update) to actually allow people in.  It was mentioned on the news this morning (interview with caravan site owner) that they are taking provisional bookings now but anyone should be prepared to cancel/change their booking if needed.
 
As for booking anything now in anticipation, I’m not booking anything until we are told overnight stays are allowed again.  To be honest, I just can’t be bothered with the idea of faffing around changing/cancelling anything.  I’d rather wait a bit until it’s a confirmed “goer”.
 
The subject is also being discussed generally here (page 2):  http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=40419.msg583444#msg583444