Sorry, this is a long one, feel free to skip through it
Day 1
We got the Buttermere bus to Gatesgarth on Friday, we were out for 3 nights. It was 2.20, late to do too much but we'd already decided to pitch in Ennerdale, it was going to be too windy to pitch above the Black Sail Pass, our original idea. So we had an easy start, just 3 miles with 380m of ascent and 180m descent on the first day.
Looking back, on the way up to Scarth Gap
It was raining on and off and we hoped we weren't going to be soaked on the first day out.
The welcoming committee at Scarth Gap
Our packs were heavy with 4 days food (and wine
) but we had a new tent with us, the MSR Hubba Hubba NX, 1 kg lighter than the MSR Elixir.
A view of Ennerdale Water on the descent to the valley
Great Gable and Kirk Fell
The descent was slippery with the rain falling earlier. The rain had stopped so we weren't that wet. This would be the first of a few torturous descents over the long weekend, I much prefer to ascend than descend.
We passed the Black Sail hut and walked across the footbridge and started looking for a pitch out of the wind. Not easy because the ground was saturated but we eventually found a spot near what we called the Ennerdale Matterhorn rock. We got the tent up just in time before the heavens opened.
The Hubba Hubba
It is almost the same as the Elixir. When the rain paused we got some water filtered and had some tea. The rain started again so we didn't bother looking out of the tent at sunset time. We had our wine and went to sleep. The tent seemed to be warm enough and not too draughty.
Day 2
We awoke to a dryer day and we packed up excited for the day ahead, first stop was to be Pillar. Pillar is a grand mountain, the views are wonderful and the route up is entertaining.
Leave no trace
Gear packed and ready to go. There was a bit of cloud on some of the tops.
On the way up to the Black Sail Pass I had to stop a couple of times because my pack was dropping to the right when going up the scrambly bits and it nearly dragged me over a couple of times. I moved a few things around and tightened the straps. We were slow and we were overtaken by a couple of blokes and a woman. We weren't in a hurry, we had all day. We were going to pitch on Yewbarrow later.
Kirk Fell from the Black Sail Pass
We stopped at a tarn to filter some water, this would most likely be the last water source until we descended from Red Pike later. It was really windy and it was a bitterly cold wind too from the north. We had our gloves on and hoods up. Beefy had a bit of a cold and wasn't feeling that great, not the best timing to do this walk, the terrain is rugged and demanding.
Beefy, Squeaky and Pillar
When the sun was out and when we were sheltered from the wind it was really warm. We were being frozen then roasted!
High Crag and High Stile
The cloud had lifted off the tops and we had great views.
Great Gable and Kirk Fell
Pillar and Black Crag
We stopped for lunch before we got to the summit, sheltering from the wind behind some rocks. We had an hour sunbathing and taking in the view.
Yewbarrow from the path up to Pillar summit
The view to the north and east from the way up Pillar
Beefy and Squeaky on Pillar summit
It wasn't windy up here which was strange, we'd expected it to be as cold and strong as earlier on the exposed part of the ridge.
Great Gable and Scafells from Pillar summit
Scoat Fell and Steeple in view from the descent to Wind Gap
The descent to Wind Gap is loose, eroded and a total pain. I really hate descending these days.
Looking back at Pillar and the descent to Wind Gap
Wind Gap was not windy and the wind from earlier had disappeared. We were running late, it had taken longer to get up and down Pillar and we had left our camping spot 45 minutes later than I'd planned so we omitted Scoat Fell and Steeple out. We can come back to do them another time.
Great Gable and Scafells
What a lovely view this is
Heading toward Red Pike
It seemed a long way up but we were at the summit pretty quickly because it was much easier terrain than the route so far.
Beefy and Squeaky on Red Pike summit
On my request the man sitting on the summit kindly moved so I could get this summit shot
The view from Red Pike summit
We moved away from the cairn to take a few shots of the view.
On the way down to Dore Head
Another descent over sometimes loose stones and a few rocky steps. We had got our second wind by now and we were soon down at Dore Head.
On the way up to the col on Yewbarrow from Dore Head
We turned left on a trod off the main path, the way up to the col. We came to another fork in this trod. We took the left fork but we wished later we'd taken the right fork!
The steep route we took up Yewbarrow
Some masochist
has cairned this route, up very steep loose scree in places. Much better to use the grass a bit further on, using the right trod we'd ignored, still steep but not quite as steep as this! There are no easy ways up Yewbarrow. I have never wanted to try Stirrup Crag or the Bell Rib ascents, I always use the col.
The Hubba Hubba on Yewbarrow
A fine view of the Scafells. We had a wow moment when they came into view, we found a pitch and put up the tent. We were tired and ready to rest. We could see a helicopter hovering over Broad Crag col. A google back at home found someone had injured themselves coming down from Broad Crag, injured their ankle and they had to be winched off. Report from Wasdale Mountain Rescue Team here:
https://www.wmrt.org.uk/incidents/broad-crag-col-scafell-pike-sat-7th-sep-2019/We got some water from a nearby tarn on to filter and had a welcome cuppa. We scoffed our tea and waited for the sunset, we were going to get one, there wasn't much cloud about.
The golden hour on Yewbarrow
The setting sun lighting up the Scafells
We had some wine and waited for the sun to set.
It set in between Seatallan and Haycock with enough cloud to defuse the sun
Not the best sun set we've had but nice all the same. We had the rest of our wine and got into our sleeping bags. It was going to be the coldest night of the weekend, down to 6 or 7 degrees, we wondered if the Hubba Hubba would keep us warm enough. Day 2 was 6 miles, 980m ascent and 500m descent, it had taken 6 hours walking time! One mile an hour!
Day 3
It had got cold overnight and if we were cold it was because perhaps we should have brought our warmer sleeping bags. The Hubba Hubba so far has impressed, although there is a bit more draught and it isn't as warm as the Elixir, it seems to be going to be warm enough to use until the weather does get colder by the middle of October? We had our breakfast, packed our gear and bagged Yewbarrow summit.
Beefy and Squeaky on Yewbarrow summit
It was cloudy today and a bit dull.
The view down to Wasdale from Yewbarrow summit
I spotted a trod that seemed to lead down to Wasdale Head. I haven't been up or down that route, better to use the route I knew, down to the Over Beck valley even though that isn't a very nice descent.
Looking back at the fellside we had descended
This photo doesn't capture the steepness of this route. Have I mentioned I am not liking descents these days?
Wast Water and another Matterhorn rock
I'd spotted a few triangular rocks over the weekend but hadn't taken photos of them.
Looking back at Bell Rib
Another Matterhorn shaped rock! We got to Over Beck Bridge and walked along the road to Down in The Dale bridge. The road was busy with cars and it was relief to reach the footpath at the bridge. We stopped for some lunch next to the beck. We were flagging a bit and I had caught Beefy's cold and had a sore throat. We filtered some water for our brews but we should have filtered more. When you are tired you start making mistakes.
On the way up to Sty Head
The cloud cleared a little and the sun came out and it warmed up a lot. This was when we realised we needed to have topped up our water during lunch. I was really thirsty when we reached the first water source. Only to find we still had half a bottle of squash to drink! We had a good guzzle and filtered some more water to take with us.
Almost at the top of the pass
At the bottom it looks a long way but before we knew it we were at the top. There are a few rocky steps that are entertaining to do. I enjoy this ascent but really dislike descending it!
At Sty Head we turned right on the way to Sprinkling Tarn and Seathwaite Fell. We passed by Sprinkling Tarn and the usual wild campers to find a spot away from the more popular area. We found such a spot near some pools. Seathwaite Fell has a lot of possible pitches I don't know why so many people stop at Sprinkling Tarn, the fell has so much more to offer.
The Hubba Hubba on Seathwaite Fell
We were optimistic putting our chairs outside. It was too cold to sit out and we got in the tent. Beefy got some water to filter from a nearby pool and we had a brew and our tea, then opened some wine.
Hubba Hubba view on Seathwaite Fell
We didn't get a sunset , there was too much cloud to the west. It was another good pitch and we enjoyed the camp regardless. Day 3 was 8 miles with 670m ascent and 570m of descent.
Day 4
The wind picked overnight and it started raining. It was still raining and windy when we woke up and we didn't think we were in for a good day going down to Seatoller. We didn't bag Seathwaite Fell summit, it was too windy and wet for us to be bothered. It rained on and off as we descended to Stockley Bridge and I took no photos, I felt really crappy with the cold thing. Another awful descent it is from Sty Head to Stockley Bridge in the wet, sloped pitched stoned paths are lethal in the rain, slick and slippery and every step had to be taken carefully. We caught our bus from Seatoller, we were dry, the rain had stopped and it was a relief not to be leaving puddles on the bus! Day 4 was 5.25 miles with 120m ascent and 550m descent. A grand few days out, shame it was spoiled by our colds. The Hubba Hubba NX is as good a tent as the Elixir in the quality of workmanship and the materials used. It isn't as warm and it is more draughty like we had expected but we are liking the kg less weight...for now! We will be back in the Elixir when the weather does get colder.