Author Topic: TR Return to Glenridding  (Read 2310 times)

BrionyB

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TR Return to Glenridding
« on: 18:52:30, 13/09/19 »
Arrived in Penrith from London by train on a drizzly Monday afternoon, having booked a last-minute trip to the Lakes on impulse, took a taxi out to Glenridding where I would be staying, and headed out almost immediately to walk. No clear idea of where or how far I would go, just an irresistible compulsion to get 'up and away'. Many years since I'd been in this area, or been hillwalking at all, but as I made my way up the track to Greenside Mine it all felt as familiar as though I'd never been away.



I was always strangely fond of this spot just above the youth hostel, with the beck tumbling over boulders, the cluster of dark conifers, the scarred hillside and the crumbling stone and rusting iron of the old mine workings. There's a bleak and abandoned feel to it, far from the pretty postcard images of the Lake District; yet to me it's beautiful in its own right and full of memories of the harsh lives led by the people who lived and worked here.





I headed up the path towards Red Tarn, for want of any more inventive ideas. It was quiet, as I'd hoped, being late afternoon on a rainy weekday in September, with only a couple of walkers coming down off Helvellyn all waterproofed-up. Eventually there was no one else, only the sound of running water and the mist and drizzle, and sheep calmly grazing with the occasional curious glance at me. I had the tarn entirely to myself, and sat down on a nice flat rock, looking up at Striding and Swirral edges outlined starkly against the moody sky.




Decided not to go on to the summit, as it was getting late and the cloud was coming down; besides, I was tired from travelling and a bit shaky from lack of food, having survived so far on my coffee and croissant breakfast back at Euston, so attempting the edges didn't seem a good idea. But I was content to sit where I was by the still water and just 'be' for a while, before eventually retracing my steps back down for a couple of drinks and bed.




Next day I was feeling more energetic after a proper cooked breakfast at the B&B, and it was looking like a fine day, so I hopped on the bus up to Kirkstone Pass to do a loop via High Street. Found myself heading up St Raven's Edge in a bit of a convoy with several other bus passengers who apparently had similar plans to me. It was nice to have a brief chat with some other walkers, but for me the main point of going up on the hills is to be alone, so I stopped and sat for a while near the cairn at the top to let the others get on ahead and out of sight. It was interesting while I waited to see a sheep farmer with his dogs rounding up the flock - or trying to, apparently the sheep were giving them the run-around and I think he was getting a bit frustrated, going by some of the language used!








Walked on eventually, over Stony Cove Pike, and picked my way down the rather steep and rocky slope into Threshwaite Mouth; the main path was starting to get a bit busy again (by my standards, which means 'anyone in sight at all'), so I wandered a short way down Pasture Beck until I was out of sight and sound, stopped for a long lunch break in a nice little hollow and enjoyed the sunshine, before scrambling somewhat awkwardly up the grassy side of Gray Crag, having a bit of an amble along the flat ridge on the top, then doubling back to the beacon. Then it was a gentle stroll up High Street with a little detour to the trig point, which was pleasantly deserted by this time.







Had a peek over the other side towards Haweswater, but decided against going down very far as my leg muscles were protesting at the prospect of having to come back up. Wandered up to the Knott instead, where it was getting decidedly chilly in the wind, requiring an extra layer and warm hat. It was very quiet now. Considered going on to Patterdale via Angle Tarn and Boredale Hause, but I was getting fairly tired and sore by this point so decided instead to just head down Hayeswater Gill to Hartsop in the hope of catching the last bus of the day back to Glenridding. The valley looked green and beautiful in the late afternoon light, and it made for a delightful end to the day, meandering down the track and happily making it to the bus stop with a comfortable ten minutes to spare.





Final day - I had a morning 'off' from walking as it was raining significantly, and I was stiff and sore from the unaccustomed exercise of the previous day. Hadn't been able to sleep much, so I caught the early bus up to Penrith instead of waiting around for breakfast, and visited an interesting but chilly church (St Catherine's), followed by a nice little cafe for some very welcome hot coffee. Back at the B&B I had a little afternoon nap and then headed out for a final walk via Greenside again. Took the track on the opposite side of the beck this time, pushing up the gentle incline against the wind, with the possibility of the summit via the zig-zags in mind.


As it turned out, I followed a 'mysterious' grassy track that branched off just before the zig-zags, and ended up at the old breached dam at Keppel Cove, which I'd never seen close-up before. A startling and desolate sight to come upon up among the hills. Very briefly considered going across it, although the wind was getting up - funnily enough, at the exact moment I had that thought, there came a sudden gust that caught me off-balance and nearly knocked my off my feet. Clearly someone was trying to tell me something, so I decided against it!





Instead, I found a sheltered spot behind a rock and lay down on the tufty grass to get out of the wind, pillowing my face on my rucksack, and could have fallen asleep if it had been just a little bit warmer. This was the most perfect spot, the most at-peace I can remember feeling in a long time, cushioned by the grass and cradled by the surrounding ridges. Not another soul in sight; I felt like I was the last person left alive on earth. Would have stayed there all night if I'd had a sleeping bag with me, or stayed up there forever if I could.






Eventually, when I was getting a bit cold from lying still, despite thermals, hat, gloves, etc, and as a rain shower had started to blow in, I headed back down towards Glenridding in the slowly fading light, pausing often to look back at brooding Helvellyn and Catstycam, or to scramble down to sit by the beck and just listen to the endless tumbling of the water. I was sad to leave the quiet twilight behind - but also glad to finally get some hot food (and a pint) at the Traveller's Rest! I hope not to leave it so long before I go walking in the hills again.



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« Last Edit: 19:00:43, 13/09/19 by BrionyB »

Bigfoot_Mike

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #1 on: 19:10:24, 13/09/19 »
That was a very interesting read. O0

richardh1905

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #2 on: 20:40:06, 13/09/19 »
What an excellent first trip report, Briony - really enjoyed reading that, and the photos are very atmospheric. I like your approach to walking.
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Dovegirl

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #3 on: 22:19:26, 13/09/19 »
Good photos and interesting TR.  I too love solitude when I'm out walking.

sunnydale

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #4 on: 21:32:07, 14/09/19 »
Lovely pics & report O0
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Ridge

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #5 on: 18:38:19, 15/09/19 »
Lovely stuff  O0

WhitstableDave

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #6 on: 18:59:27, 15/09/19 »
An excellent read and very atmospheric photos!  O0
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taxino8

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #7 on: 08:52:18, 16/09/19 »
Great write up and photos, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Thanks.

harland

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #8 on: 09:04:36, 16/09/19 »
Reading your TR I was walking there with you, very well written and really good photos.

vghikers

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #9 on: 13:52:59, 16/09/19 »
Excellent report and moody pics  O0

Quote
Instead, I found a sheltered spot behind a rock and lay down on the tufty grass to get out of the wind, pillowing my face on my rucksack, and could have fallen asleep if it had been just a little bit warmer. This was the most perfect spot, the most at-peace I can remember feeling in a long time, cushioned by the grass and cradled by the surrounding ridges. Not another soul in sight; I felt like I was the last person left alive on earth. Would have stayed there all night if I'd had a sleeping bag with me

You're a born wild-backpacker!.

April

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #10 on: 16:07:23, 16/09/19 »
A super read with some nice photos to go with  O0

You should go wild camping, as vghikers says, there is normally nobody around overnight  :)
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BrionyB

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #11 on: 19:35:44, 16/09/19 »
Thanks everyone for reading and for the nice comments!


I am quite drawn to the idea of wild camping/sleeping-out on the fells, but was always put off by the thought of having to haul camping gear up a hill. Though I hear there's a lot of ultra-lightweight stuff around these days, and for a one-night trip I could probably cut it down to the bare minimum.


I have sometimes got up before dawn and gone up a familiar route by torchlight to see the sunrise and enjoy the quiet. Top tip - don't choose Pen-y-Ghent for this, unless you like being joined at first light by dozens of eager Three Peakers wanting you to take their group photo at the trig point...  ;D

richardh1905

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #12 on: 19:41:10, 16/09/19 »
A long way from home for you, Briony, but do visit the Cairngorms - the native Scots pine forests have an unparalleled tranquility, and you can walk for miles up high without seeing a soul. And such magical wild camping -http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=38681.0
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ninthace

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #13 on: 20:26:53, 16/09/19 »
Plenty of solitude in the Howgill Fells too, especially if you approach from the N side.  Only 2 tourist routes on them, up to The Calf from Sedbergh or up Cautley Spout.
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BrionyB

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Re: TR Return to Glenridding
« Reply #14 on: 20:35:28, 16/09/19 »
A long way from home for you, Briony, but do visit the Cairngorms - the native Scots pine forests have an unparalleled tranquility, and you can walk for miles up high without seeing a soul. And such magical wild camping -http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=38681.0


That looks gorgeous.  O0
 I have actually been to the Cairngorms, though it was well over 20 years ago on family holidays; the Monadhliaths too, which my Dad was particularly fond of for their remoteness and emptiness. I do remember there being absolutely miles upon miles of pathless terrain, seemingly infinite, and even in the summer holidays we might see no one all day, unthinkable in the Lakes or Dales!

 

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