Second day –
Zen, wisely caught a few more zzzs, whilst I packed our gear comfortably fitting into an Ultimate Direction 25 litre Fastpack - 3 kg in total, plus 1 litre of water (filtered) and the day’s food for both = 5kg. Quite impressive if I don’t say so myself!
My advice is to pack with the weather, terrain and foremost, safety in mind, and enough comfort to maintain happiness. I downsized to a torso sleeping mat using the pack under my legs instead, but kept the 3 season sleeping bag – got to keep Zen happy and us warm with a little spooning (one more for taking a dog) - Extras would be a larger than usual first aid kit – I expected to trip over a few times and Zen’s stuff: lead, collar, harness, collapsible bowl, spoon, doggie bags and his fav meaty treats and food, of course.
I get enough ‘that’s cheating!’ remarks in trail marathon events when tied to Zen – What would people say if I made him carry his stuff? Moreover, what would he say?? Unprintable! Whoever you run with compromise is important - no one wants a ‘domestic’!
Being a multi-day trekker first, carrying 10-14kg, 5kg feels insanely light and gives me the freedom to go faster and further, at a steady pace to enjoy the evolving stunning landscapes, without missing the beauty of wildflowers, butterflies and birds. Slowing to walk, actually feels like a rest. With no time pressure, it’s easy to stop briefly and look around, read and learn about the Norman castles and lime kilns on route.
Freshwater East Beach
There was no letting up on the beauty front with soft red earthed paths steeply dropping to sheltered coves before zooming up to reveal endless snaking paths across the high cliffs. On to wide bays, one with surfers, another deserted then to Freshwater East Beach. Tackling the dunes for a challenge, we raced, side-stepping each other, swapping the lead, me spurting down, Zen four-pawed powering up, caressing the curves, kissing the tops, hearts pumping, in unison two buddies giggling on endorphins, hot, sweating from sun trapped heat. Euphorically loving it. Trail running made sexy!
Both winners, we celebrated at The Boathouse Tea-room who kindly phoned to confirm the next military zone open. Soon we were at splendid, busyish (50 people) Barafundle Beach – recently voted one of the World’s top 10 beaches (justifiable and I’ve been to Seychelles & Sandwood Bay in Scotland this year). Temperatures rose with huge cloudless skies as we clocked up the miles and cranked up the happiness, cooling off running in harmony, splashing in the surf. Which dries quicker - trail shoes or paws?
Correction: Beaches were made for running, with dogs!
Next, around Stagpole Head – blow holes, caves and arches, vertical limestone cliffs at their best, abundant with razorbills and guillemots, with Zen sensibly paying no attention to them or the edge. The whole coast path is punctuated with hundreds of kissing gates, giving me the excuse for a short walk now and again. Now entering a National Trust area, many people wandered about, gladly opening the gates, negating a rest, how inconsiderate! They were surprised to see we were running, though I modestly said my bag was full of balloons. I wish!
If you’ve run with the same partner for a while, you’ll appreciate there’s a telepathic understanding between you on how each is feeling. I can sense Zen’s fatigue and slow the pace and he picks it up when I’m energised. We were tiring and we both knew it. I needed a break for food. He needed water, but I’d ran out with no streams running across the flat cliffs.
As long as you can see, hear or smell the sea, you cannot get lost on a coast path, though a few signs are always reassuring. The open Bosherton military zone, had paths appropriately marked with tanks, but Castlemartin is permanently off limits, meaning a tedious inland road detour, though no one wants to be a running target! Luckily, I was able to knock on a door and get water for Zen.
It’s intriguing to learn what the body needs to keep running. I’ve learnt the slower I run the further I can go. Obvious really, but what’s the optimum daily effort so I can replenish sufficiently with food and sleep to be able to do it day after day? I’m burning 5000 calories a day! That’s a lot of cliff bars!
Zen checking out the menu
Scattered along the path, you can grab bananas and choc bars from local shops, and tasty carbo-filled meals are readily available in oldie-worldly pubs – just ask for “The Ship Inn”, quaint restaurants and beach cafes. Possibly the best is Café Mor on Freshwater West Beach, serving superb fresh sea food from their ‘mobile boat’.
We got a second wing. Maybe it was their huge fresh cod salad roll, the bacon leftovers, generously rewarded for Zen, the 40-minute break, a can of coke (I never drink coke) or the spectacular beach and surrounding dunes, or probably all. We energetically and almost effortless glided across the one mile of sand and up and over 7 miles of wild, remote, challenging trails, ending the day in Angle to camp, exhilarated after 28+ miles.
Ups & Downs Freshwater Beach to Angle
Alone, we wandered down to the local pub, carbo hunting. You’re never alone with a dog, conversation coming easily with strangers – today, with local RNLI volunteers – Another feather in Zen’s cap. Another ace day