Yes we went there in May/June a couple of years ago and did lots of walking. I think we may have had the Sunflower book too, I'm not sure, we borrowed it from the library. A lot of the routes follow the levadas (irrigation system). They're like mini canals with paths alongside them. It's quite easy walking along them although for some you need a bit of a head for heights. We also walked around the highest points on the island, great views if you get there before the clouds descend, which they often do. We said hello to everyone we passed and not a single person was English, they were nearly all German or French. All the Brits were in Funchal the capital which we didn't like at all, couldn't wait to get out to the countryside again! Luckily we weren't staying there, we had an apartment in a village along the south coast.
