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Regions - Trip reports, destination advice, recommended routes, etc. => Scotland => Topic started by: nesty on 09:37:28, 16/03/18

Title: Shetland
Post by: nesty on 09:37:28, 16/03/18
I've always wanted to go. Though cost always put me off IE ferry. However I have read that the Scottish Government are slicing the ferry charges in first half of this year (probably be finalized by June). I am looking to go in Sept, if they carry this out.


Anyone been? I've done mainland Scotland, a coastal roadtrip about 10 years ago. Though I gather Shetland is a different entirety.


I take it some decent walks etc!


 
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: staggerindragon on 17:39:51, 17/03/18

Don't miss Jarlshof on the Shetland Mainland.

I didn't do a lot of walking, but I can highly recommend Gardiesfauld Hostel up on Unst.  I actually got to do some otter watching from their little conservatory out back, and what's not to love about a hostel that still has an honor box in case the warden doesn't come by for payment while you're around?  Or a sign that says, "Castle Unlocked" outside Muness Castle and a box of torches to use while exploring inside.


If you're a birder, check out Hermaness Nature Reserve. 


Unst is . . .elemental to say the least.  I noticed that a large metal interpretive panel had been torn off the concrete plinth it had been attached to and asked about it because I was so surprised at vandalism there.  "Oh, that.  The wind took it." was the nonchalant reply.   :o



http://https://www.unstwalkersarewelcome.co.uk/unst-fetlar-walks/ (http://https://www.unstwalkersarewelcome.co.uk/unst-fetlar-walks/)
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: nesty on 18:42:55, 17/03/18
Thanks for that.
Unst is firmly on my list as want to get/see the most Northern UK point (in 2019, looking at Isles of Scilly, most southern). I know that I can't get on to Muckle Flugga/out stack, but to see it in reality will do.  
I like scenery and ancient stuff, so what you mentioned sounds great.  
It's just a question of waiting for the ferry reduction. They reckon it will be rubber stamped by June 2018.   

 
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: pdstsp on 13:05:25, 22/03/18
Thanks for the link staggerindragon - I've got five days on Shetland in May all booked so some of these walks look great for me and mrs pdstsp.


Really looking forward to seeing Shetland - we've been visiting different islands for a few years now and love the different places - when we were on Orkney a couple of years ago a guy in the pub, who was originally from Manchester, was telling us that he worked on Shetland but that his wife refused to live there as it was so bleak, so they lived on Orkney and he commuted each week.
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: nesty on 13:49:32, 22/03/18
Thanks for the link staggerindragon - I've got five days on Shetland in May all booked so some of these walks look great for me and mrs pdstsp.


Really looking forward to seeing Shetland - we've been visiting different islands for a few years now and love the different places - when we were on Orkney a couple of years ago a guy in the pub, who was originally from Manchester, was telling us that he worked on Shetland but that his wife refused to live there as it was so bleak, so they lived on Orkney and he commuted each week.


How are you getting there, via ferry or flying?
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: pdstsp on 13:51:55, 22/03/18
We're flying - we've limited time, so the drive to Aberdeen from Liverpool and then a longish ferry there and back didn't work for us.  Not cheap - you seem to be able to fly half way round the world cheaper than flying to the Scottish islands!
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: nesty on 14:13:40, 22/03/18
We're flying - we've limited time, so the drive to Aberdeen from Liverpool and then a longish ferry there and back didn't work for us.  Not cheap - you seem to be able to fly half way round the world cheaper than flying to the Scottish islands!


I've looked into the prices from London Luton. I could get far abroad cheaper. Shetland is going to appeal to a certain number of people. So unless the Scottish Government encouraging people to visit. IE somehow starts subsidizing the travel there then people will shy away from visiting.


Annoys me that you can fly abroad far cheaper and certain other travel within the UK is so pricey in comparison. Many in power wonder why people are not taking holidays in UK and putting that money back into our economy!  
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: scottk on 19:06:01, 26/03/18
I am sure that flights and ferry are subsidised if you are from Shetland. Farmers and fishers also get discount on shipping goods from the islands.
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: Islandplodder on 13:31:43, 27/03/18

I live in the Western Isles and even with subsidised travel for locals the flights are pretty exorbitant.  I remember my son (now in England) pointing out sarcastically that it was cheaper to fly to California than to come home, and at least there would be some sun when he got there.  Slight exaggeration, but he has a point.   And yes, we complain about it regularly.  And the fact that the plane isn't all that reliable, it doesn't take much for it not to come.  If you have to be anywhere, you set off the day before.
Everyone gets the benefit of the ferry subsidies (They are set on the basis of Road Equivalent Tariff) - but I'm afraid we moan about that as well, as in the summer the ferries are booked solid and just as inaccessible for locals as for tourists.
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: RogerA on 15:09:47, 27/03/18
I went to Shetland once, over 20 years ago now, but I went on business whilst I was working most of my time off shore in the North Sea and got flown in and out by helicopter so cant comment on transport links - not that 20 year old memories would be that helpful.

It is however quite stunning and dramatic - well worth a visit.

If you're interested theres a crime drama on bbc iplayer/netflix called Shetland that shows some of the scenary to good effect, its also quite a good drama - well worth a watch.
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: nesty on 16:37:36, 27/03/18
I went to Shetland once, over 20 years ago now, but I went on business whilst I was working most of my time off shore in the North Sea and got flown in and out by helicopter so cant comment on transport links - not that 20 year old memories would be that helpful.

It is however quite stunning and dramatic - well worth a visit.

If you're interested theres a crime drama on bbc iplayer/netflix called Shetland that shows some of the scenary to good effect, its also quite a good drama - well worth a watch.


I know I watched every single episode! One of the main actors in it lives in my village!

Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: staggerindragon on 22:38:50, 28/03/18
I enjoyed the ferry up from Orkney since much of the way is protected, but the trip from Lerwick back to Aberdeen was a bit more eventful.  Just past Fair Isle, I discovered that I get seasick after all and spent the evening trying to keep my innards from becoming outards. 


Island Plodder has a good point about transportation not always being reliable.  The week I was there, even the big ferries were canceled for at least one run, and I bet flights were canceled too.  You might to pad your itinerary a bit to allow for weather.


A series of An Island Parish filmed up there too: www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0756c63/episodes/guide (http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0756c63/episodes/guide)  



Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: richardh1905 on 14:00:18, 10/06/18

I've been lucky enough to travel to Shetland through my work for the last 16 years; a wonderful place.


For walking and wild places I would recommend Unst in particular; there is a special atmosphere about the place. Do go to Hermaness in the far North West, for the birds, cliffs and views of Muckle Flugga lighthouse. Also the Keen of Hamar near Baltasound; unfortunately in September you will have missed the rare alpine plants in flower on the serpentine screes. In the NE, Norwick beach is beautiful.


Elsewhere in Shetland:


The far north west of Shetland Mainland is excellent for walking; Ronas Hill despite it's modest height, feels much higher on top, and it is worth heading west from the top to take a look at the crumbling Lang Ayre cliffs; judging by the trenches running parallel to the top, the whole lot is subsiding into the sea! Point of Fethaland lighthouse is a good walk, and Eshaness is worth a look (Dore Holm must be the best natural arch in Britain). Spectacular coastal scenery. There's a campsite with pods at Braewick, and the fish and chips at Frankie's in Brae are to die for.


Down south, don't miss St Ninian's Isle, connected to the mainland via a superb tombolo. Sumburgh Head lighthouse visitor centre is also worth a visit.


For food I strongly recommend spoiling yourself at the Scalloway Hotel;
in my opinion t[/color]  
he best place to eat in Shetland .
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: nesty on 15:25:27, 10/06/18
Many thanks for that. Sounds like there is loads to see in Shetland. I do find the place fascinating.
There is still no word yet on the new ferry prices coming in, so awaiting on that to then plan.
Scalloway Hotel I have heard of that. I believe David Cameron stayed there on PM business back in 2011 and all the film crew and actors when filming Shetland stay there[size=0px].  
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: pdstsp on 16:03:09, 10/06/18
Hi Nesty


We spent our 4 1/2 days on Shetland a couple of weeks ago and it was absolutely fantastic. We were lucky with weather - wall to wall sun! The coastal scenery is wonderful, with some great walking, though we only did bits and bobs here and there as we were doing lots of other stuff.  Richardh1905's recommendations are all great - we did vist Hermaness and walked up to the point overlooking the Muckle Flugga which was one of the most dramatic walks I have done - the scenery and birds were fabulous.  Also St Ninian's isle is a great half day walk across the tombolo and then round the island - again wonderful seascapes.  Many others too - and the inland scenery is also much better than I was expecting - big views and very quiet roads.  The central spine of Mainland is the only area where we saw many people.


We stayed at the Scalloway and loved it - great food, rooms are good and loads of people chatting in the bar.  Thankfully DC was not there when we were.


I would go back to Shetland at the drop of a hat.
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: nesty on 16:57:24, 10/06/18
Thanks for this. Certainly ticks the boxes.
I have a campervan so I'll be doing the campsite thing.

Though, where I live right down south, it's going to be a big journey not only time wise but financially as well, So a bit of planning will need to be done!    O0
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: astaman on 20:45:26, 17/07/18
Hello,


My first post so I hope it's helpful.


I live in Shetland and all the advice you've received so far is very good. I'll add a couple of thoughts and suggestions. Famously the coastal walking is the main attraction. In fact it's quite difficult to more than a few miles from the sea anyway. Care is needed because the cliffs are high and potentially dangerous with geos and deep crevices appear from the heather with great cunning. Don't expect to find the network of paths, tracks and trails that you find in other places. There are some paths but historically journeys between Shetland communities were made by boat so no ancient infrastructure for foot traffic developed. There was no dear stalking as in the Highlands so those hill tracks are missing too. In Shetland you have to develop an eye for sheep tracks. I am currently walking the coast of Shetland and have noticed that there tends to be a sort of sheep super highway perilously close to the edge and another some yards further back from edge. The can be very useful in the trackless wilderness.


Others are right about Unst but other places are easily overlooked. There is a tendency to judge Yell by the drive through the blanked peat bog seen from the road but investigation of the coast repays the effort by revealing hidden gems - try Breckon Sands, Gloup, Otterwick among may other places. Over the past few days I've walked the coast of Bressay (easily reached by a few minute ferry ride from Lerwick). The south end has some has fabulous cliffs and wartime archaeology and the east coast has great archaeology and scenery. I've also scene five otters there over the past few days. There are also small places tucked away that are wonderful. The banks around Silwick and Westerwick on the West Mainland are fantastic.


Worth looking at Peter Guy's half dozen guide books giving an account of his walk around the coast of all the permanently inhabited islands. They have them in the Lerwick library and its worth an hour or two there browsing the local collection at the start of your holiday.


I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: nesty on 16:16:55, 19/07/18
Cheers Astaman many thanks for the residents view.
Shetland seems like is one of those uncharted areas for walkers, completely different to say the Peak district for marked footpaths etc.
The more I look into Shetland the more I want to go. Just a question of fitting in it in 2018.


One question is there LPG filling on the islands? I thought I read there was 1 place near Brae. I could require LPG for my campervan (naturally fill up before boarding Ferry), not necessary for running as it can run on petrol, but I would require it for cooking and heating etc inside, if Leisure LPG tanks ran out.
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: astaman on 12:25:08, 20/07/18
Hi Nesty,


An update on the availability of LPG in Shetland. According to the local tourist office there is only one outlet in Shetland. You are right it is close to Brae but slightly to the north along the main road. It is close to a place called Mangaster. The address is:


The Red Quarry
Sullom
North Mavine
Shetland ZE2 9RF


It belongs to the same people that own the St Magnus Bay Hotel in Hillswick and you need to phone them to arrange an appointment to get gas as the quarry isn't permanently manned. Their number is:


01806 503372


I'd be inclined to give them a ring before you set off from home to make sure that they still provide LPG.


One other thing you might not be aware of. There used to be a very good caravan, camper and camping site in Lerwick  but it closed down due to the area being developed as a new high school. It has not been replaced and I don't think there are any plans to replace it. There are other sites around Shetland of course.


Get in touch if I can be of further help.
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: nesty on 19:25:56, 20/07/18
Hi Astaman
Thanks for this, Ah Sullom, I knew the LPG outlet was somewhere near the Mavis Grind, though I couldn't remember what place it was!


Re Lerwick I've done some google street view surveying and I happened to notice a site / bit around the back of the Clickimin leisure complex (Stanley hill Road), then clicked to the next image, which featured a more recent date and massive building work taking place and it all disappeared.  I wasn't too sure if they were going to put it back in, doesn't look like they are, which is a pity as looked an ideal spot. I want to have a couple of nights in Lerwick, but it's a question of where to park the van, as it's a smaller campervan, I might be able to get away with on the street somewhere?     
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: astaman on 13:57:39, 21/07/18
Hi Nesty,


You're right, the building site is now a fully functioning high school and there is no plan to replace the camp site. Unfortunate because it was a good one with access to the leisure centre next door. If you can wild camp anywhere in a camper van then Shetland is the place. I live in Lerwick so I've never had to think about parking up here but I'll ask around and find our what others do and post suggestions. Send me a PM when your due to come up - I'll buy you a coffee.
Title: Re: Shetland
Post by: nesty on 14:54:05, 21/07/18
Hi Nesty,


You're right, the building site is now a fully functioning high school and there is no plan to replace the camp site. Unfortunate because it was a good one with access to the leisure centre next door. If you can wild camp anywhere in a camper van then Shetland is the place. I live in Lerwick so I've never had to think about parking up here but I'll ask around and find our what others do and post suggestions. Send me a PM when your due to come up - I'll buy you a coffee.


Thanks will do, like I said I am trying to do it in 2018, but might run out of time, mainly as now the light is starting to close in quicker in Shetland. Might be spring 2019, though will certainly let you know when on island!