As this was moved to general I see no reason not to make a more general discussion of this.
I would be very surprised if the qualifications listed by Scarlet are legally required in this country.
That's right, as I tried to explain there's no legal requirement to hold a particular award in the UK as the law stands today. Nor, I think, any prospect in the foreseeable future that it will be required.
The law in the UK is reactive in this respect. Basically I mean after an incident if the leader doesn't hold an award it will be a factor in establishing liability. It's like having a plumber coming to do work that goes wrong and your house blows up, if he wasn't properly qualified that'll be a factor in working out who's liable. It's not that the UK doesn't have jobs where you're required to be have a particular qualification, not just anyone can call themselves a doctor or lawyer for example and these are "established professions". That means they're a profession, that's a much misused term but has a fairly precise meaning, and that you've got to have the professional status to carry the activity out by law.
Professional basically really means an entry standard, a status you can lose and a requirement to take continuing training. So, a doctor has to keep current and can be struck off for example. It also means there's a professional body looking at standards that people can complain to ,like reporting your doctor to the GMC and so on.
But the barriers to moving mountain leadership to the same basis are quite large. The primary qualifications used day to day are, (sorry about the alphabet soup), ML, ML(W), WGL, SPA & CWLA which are all of the highest standard but none of which are actual professional qualifications. The holder basically met the standard on the day and that's enough.
There is now an organisation called the MLTA which is separate from the awarding bodies like MLTE, MLTUK etc. Members of the MLTA hold one of the above qualifications, or are registered for them, and the MLTA acts as a professional body. It's not perfect but it's a start. For the sake of balance I should point out there's a body called the Institute for Outdoor Learning (IOL) which does much the same.
Those who hold senior awards, IML and IFMGA, basically pass a series of tests but have no status without membership of a professional body. That's basically having a carnet which is issued each year and requires you've kept up to date with your first aid, other professional training, are insured and haven't been struck off. In some countries it's the law you've got that carnet, France is a good example and the French have similar requirements for plumbers or electricians so it's a mindset that's firmly embedded in life there.
I also echo Snowslider's doubts about UK companies operating in Europe with so-called 'leaders' try to get round the established local requirements. In the Dolomites, I was surprised that these 'leaders' were taking groups along very very airy trails with sheer drops to one side. Somone could get 'gripped' and be unable to move - the leader had no responsibility legally for their safety as he/she was not a 'guide', wouldn't have been carrying a 'confidence' rope. I tried leading a couple of times for a well known UK company years ago, walking and XC skiing, and felt very unsupported - just left to get on with it even when one client had a heart attack. Absolutely not a free holiday!
Interesting experience! I know some off my colleagues get quite heated about this and see it in fairly black & white terms. I think the law is probably paramount, so in France there's a law and if you're not qualified then you shouldn't be there. But, I do think there might be grey areas.
There seems a world of difference between an unqualified leader taking some customers on the Tour du Mt Blanc and the same leader taking a group for a stroll around the vineyards of Bordeaux. And I think we have to recognise while some companies aren't using qualified leaders that they're also not engaged in very serious activity.
I also think we've got to recognise some companies are pretty good and their leaders are fine, I worked for World Challenge as an ML and aspirant IML personally. The recruiting & vetting they do is great and they love ex-military guys for the original poster. Practically, there's only a couple of hundred IML's, there's not enough to go round, World Challenge send out a couple of hundred exped's each year, so they've got to use ML's. And, unlike your experience, someone like WCE have amazing support, you've got beacons & sat phones and you know if there's an issue they'll be someone coming to help, probably some guy who used to abseil into embassies for a living
Italy is a slight problem, they've no representation on the UIMLA (Union of International Mountain Leader Associations), my understanding is that they had a local country award but that the awarding body lost their mandate and it's left the situation a mess. Which is odd as they've got some pretty draconian laws about mountain safety in the winter. One of the companies operating there has a particular issue as they offer via feratta, the accepted situation here is that a guide is required to address the problems of vertical rescue although clearly an MIA would be fine but MIA is not recognised outside the UK. Only UIMLA & IFMGA leaders/guides have a qualification accepted outside country of issue.
Don't get me started on Nordic skiing, that's a minefield
I want to take people on the cross border GTJ, I have a basic qualification as a ski instructor and the Swiss are happy that as an IML I can take people into that environment but I've still got to sort the French bit out. I might be able to add it to my French carte professionale or I might need to take another qual for nordic with does the technical element on telemark which I'm hopeless at
the leader had no responsibility legally for their safety as he/she was not a 'guide',
oh heck
I can't let that by
& we all hoped I'd finished by now..
No doubt they say that but it's tosh I'm afraid. In countries where the legal system is based on the Napoleonic Code there's a strong concept of responsibility. The responsible person is the one that appears to "the responsible person" whether they hold qualifications or not. So, if there's a guy holding the map and pointing the way, he's the leader and he's responsible. There's case law for this, a recent case in Austria (
3 months suspended sentence for forgetting beacon) and in France (Cour d’appel de Grenoble- arręt du 21 octobre 2002...). I can't instantly quote case law for Italy but I think there is some.
It's suggested this may be the case in the UK although there's no case I know of but I've heard insurers have said they would ignore qualifications when identifying responsible people and suing them or prosecuting for negligence. In the UK the fact someone led a group without a qualification hasn't stopped them being sent to prison.