Lingcove Beck wild camp 27-28th July 2020I didn't really get out much over the weekend due to the atrocious weather, and Monday was no better. But the forecast was for the rain to clear, so I decided to chance it and go for a wild camp up at the top of Lingcove Beck, right in the Wild Heart of the Lakeland Fells. I had visions of climbing Bowfell and Crinkle Crags on my way out.
The drive up Dunnerdale was interesting, shall we say - lots of water on the road, some big pools hiding formidable potholes, so care was needed. I parked to the east of Cockley Beck bridge, and started walking at around 1630, still a few spots of rain, so on with the Gore Tex.
VIEWRANGER - CLICK HEREThe clouds were down - I couldn't see the top of Hardknott Pass, and Wrynose was hidden in the murk, but march orchids in their thousands lined the road - lovely, despite the gloom.
Wrynose Bottom - the clouds down on the passOrchids in profusionCockley Beck Bridge - the river was swollen after all the rainI crossed the bridge and headed up the road towards Hardknott Pass, my intended route up Moasdale barred by a small beck in spate. I had to continue up towards the pass for a hundred yards or so before I could find a place where I could cross safely with a heavy pack. The path up to Moasdale was awash with water, literally a stream in places, but I enjoyed the climb up into the valley, despite inevitably getting my feet wet - I consoled myself with the fact that you can only get your feet wet once, and that I had a spare pair of dry socks inside a ziplock bag tucked away in the depths of my rucksack.
The path up into Moasdale - in places this was more like a young stream than a path!Water cascading down the fells - but at least the clouds were liftingMy enjoyment stopped when the path seemed to end abruptly, and I found myself making my way across a vast bog - in fact the entire head of Moasdale seemed to be one giant bog. No choice but to plod on, and eventually I won through to firmer ground on the headwall of the valley.
Looking back down into the head of Moasdale - one giant bogfest!From here the going improved somewhat - tussocky grass replaced sphagnum moss, and I started traversing up the eastern side of the Lingcove Beck valley that I had entered from the south, my eyes drawn to the sunlit head of the valley. In fact, I became a little obsessed with reaching this sunlit haven, imagining it to be some kind of 'inner sanctuary' containing an abundance of perfectly level sheltered pitches beside tumbling becks - I was to be disappointed.
The sunlit 'inner sanctuary' at the head of the Lingcove Beck valleyTraversing across the side of the valley was slow going. I had left the worst of the bog behind but the ground was rough, and there were several small becks to cross - in normal conditions these would be no bother to step across, but after all the rain they demanded respect - I had a heavy pack and was on my own in deserted phoneless country, so I took care.
The clouds finally clear Bowfell. I was aiming for the head of the valley beyond the rocky knollI eventually rounded the knoll in the picture above, but instead of my imagined paradise, I was greeted by a windswept boggy bowl. The sensible thing to do would have been to retreat back down the valley for half a mile, but I pressed on regardless, casting around for a small patch of level ground to pitch up on. I eventually found a spot, hard up under the southern slopes of Bowfell, very exposed, but dry and level enough at least, and in an absolutely magnificent position.
The clouds had cleared and the sun made an appearance, but the wind was gusting strongly, and I had a bit of a struggle in getting the tent up - I took my time and was thorough: it's not a race. Once up and secured, the Lightwave tent seemed to handle the gusts well enough, so I relaxed and settled in. Time for dinner, eaten sat upon a convenient boulder whilst taking in the magnificence of my surroundings.
My exposed pitch at the head of the Lingcove Beck valley, with Harter Fell in the distanceLightwave T10 Trek tent being put to the test!Adam-a-Crag, the western flank of Crinkle CragsI had a rough night, to be honest. The wind dropped off a bit initially, but then picked up again with a vengeance in the early hours, and to cap it all, it rained on and off throughout the night, too. The tent took it well, but I was constantly being awakened by violent blasts of wind that caused the fly to crack like a whip, and the whole tent to shake. At least I was warm and dry, and my confidence in the tent has been boosted - it really is a little toughie. Eventually I managed to snatch a couple of hours sleep as dawn was breaking, but I felt pretty worn out. The weather was pretty vile, too, and it was easy to abandon any thoughts of going up onto Bowfell and Crinkle Crags. I got away around 0700, and started retracing my steps back down the valley. The becks weren't so full of water, but I still managed to slip and crack my knee, discovering later that the rock had slashed a hole in my overtrousers, 'Tracksters'
and knee!
Looking back towards Bowfell - I did wonder whether I should have 'gone for it', but the clouds and rain returned shortly after I took this pictureThe top of Scafell obscured by cloudsRather than return via Moasdale, I decided to descend down the Lingcove valley all the way to Eskdale, and then return to the car over Hardlnott Pass. A path of sorts runs down the valley, tentative at first. The beck tumbles down a series of cascades and waterfalls before it meets the River Esk at Lingcove Bridge. I spotted no less than FIVE tents in the vicinity of the bridge, and I must confess that I felt slightly superior when I said 'Hi' to one of the campers peeping out of their tent in the sheepfold - they were the first person that I had seen since leaving the Hardknott Pass road yesterday afternoon.
Lingcove Bridge with Eskdale beyondA particularly fine waterfall on Lingcove Beck - one good thing about heavy rain is that it brings out the best in waterfallsWaterfall on the River Esk. I descended the valley to the right.The walk down the valley was pleasant, despite the intermittent rain and sodden paths, and I didn't even mind the walk over Hardknott Pass. All the same, I was glad to get back to the car. Around 10 miles in total - it felt like more!
Looking back up Eskdale towards Bowfell, a very photogenic mountain from this directionHardknott Pass between the showers