Thanks for sending me the file you were using. I've loaded it to my Etrex 20 and PC and I now get contours etc showing on both my PC and on my Etrex 20, so the question is why aren't you seeing contours on your Etrex 20? Is it possible you have too many maps loaded so have exceeded the map segments limit? If you have a lot of maps loaded try removing some to see if that makes any difference.See here for detail https://support.garmin.com/en-GB/?faq=Sf7jHKwP2V53j6MoP8AeH8
Off to catch the big metal bird soon. Thanks for trying John - I appreciate the effort.
Have a great trip and keep us posted.