Author Topic: Coast to Coast  (Read 23175 times)

Brian

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Re: Coast to Coast
« Reply #45 on: 07:52:11, 08/07/07 »
Diary of Coast-to-Coast June 2007


Left home to catch the 0845hrs ferry to Heysham to start my journey to St Bees, the starting point for the coast-to-coast walk. Good connection by train on to Lancaster where I was then confronted with a 2½hr wait for a train to St Bees, finally arriving at 1830hrs, a 9¾hr journey! One other person also departed the train that I quickly found was also doing the walk, Cathy from NSW Australia.

Staying at the Fairladies Guest House that was very nice and had room No 6 at the back. Quick change and the across the road to the Oddfellows Public House and had a beer (Marstons) and steak pie meal for £6.95 which was excellent and good value.
Decided that I needed to walk off the meal so went down to the beach to find the starting point for the walk, had a fairly good view of the Isle of Man with Snaefell and North Barrule showing up well. Came to the conclusion that without the Coast-to-Coast starting there then I cannot see any reason to visit St Bees.


Sunday 17th June             16miles 860mtrs Height Gain (8hrs).
Left the hotel at 0930hrs and commenced the walk, did the ceremonial dipping of the feet in the sea and collected a pebble, initially a fairly steep climb up onto the cliffs overlooking St Bees then followed by a nice gentle coastal path for about 4 miles where we saw other groups of walkers commencing the Coast to Coast. Whilst walking the coastal path, a DC3 Dakota and a Hurricane over Whitehaven gave us a grandstand view of a flypast and demonstration.
Shortly after we turned inland along country lanes and had a view of Dent Hill, the first of the many hills we were going to be climbing during this walk. The day had become warmer and the humidity had increased as we walked through Cleater towards the start of Dent Hill, which was initially a steady climb through the wooded lower area and then eventually into open land for the final climb to the top. Had a short break at the top of Dent Hill, were we first met Jeremy from Essex who we were to see a lot more of throughout the days, he tagged on to us for the rest of the day and the following day. There followed a steep descent into Nannycatch Gate and then the path followed the Beck, this was very nice walking if somewhat humid and was followed by some road walking into Ennerdale Bridge.
Accommodation in ‘The Cloggers’ Tom Butt Cottage, a private house but very nice. Evening meal taken at the Fox and Hounds Hotel.


Monday 18th June            14miles 742mtrs Height Gain (8½hrs)
Left Ennerdale Bridge at 0930hrs, long road walk to Ennerdale Water, which was followed by a nice, undulating, waterside walk which was steep in places but afforded good views of Red Pike and High Stile. At the end of the lake we crossed the Beck onto the road to Black Sail Youth Hostel that was fairly easy walking. We left the road before Black Sail and commenced a climb up the side of High Stile towards Haystacks. This was a long steady climb with regular good views back to Ennerdale, which increased with climbing. The climb eventually came to a saddle at Scarth Gap, which then opened up the first views of Buttermere and Crummock Water and gave a fine view of the ridge of High Stile. A fairly steep climb then commenced to reach the top of Haystacks which eventually became steepish rock climbing involving some ‘hands on’ before suddenly breaking out on top with fantastic views all round, including to Great Gable. Unfortunately there are 4 Cairns on the summit so it is a guess as to where the highest point is, however, I can fully understand why AW picked this as his favourite Hill/Mountain. Following lunch at the top of Haystacks we started the descent via Innominate Tarn where AW’s ashes were laid to rest and which has a haunting beauty about it. The rest of the descent followed the old mining tracks of Honister down to a café and gift shop, then finally some road walking into Borrowdale to the Langstrath Hotel.


Tuesday 19th June            8 miles 694mtrs Height Gain (6hrs)
Left accommodation at 0910hrs with a long and steady climb along Greenup Gill with fine views all round. The Gill is a constant slow curve to the right so the view is always changing and giving clues of what is still to come. The final climb to Greenup Edge gets steadily steeper especially the final leg but then a great vista opens of some new fells to view especially those of the Hellvellyn range. Short walk along Greenup Edge to the top of Calf Crag where we stopped for lunch. After lunch we continued to Monument Crag then along the ridge to Gibsons Knot and finally Helm Crag where superb views to Windermere and down into Grasmere are seen. There follows a steep, uneven and winding descent over a rough stone and boulder path and finally a short road section into Grasmere. Tonight the accommodation is in the Glenthorne Country Guest House (Quaker run), very good. Went to a Best Western in Grasmere for evening Meal.


Wednesday 20th June         8 miles 898mtrs Height Gain (7¼hrs)
Short day today so commenced walk at 1000hrs with a steady climb along Great Tongue along the left path, which became steep towards Hause Riggs but is worth it for the views back to Grasmere. (NOTE- the popular route is the right hand path.) A steep path follows to finally reach Grisedale Tarn, which then opens up views along the lower route, as the weather was good the decision was made to take the high route, which climbs, to the top of St Sunday Crag, one of the higher fells at 845mtrs. Initially the climb was steady along a narrow (Less than 12” and muddy) path with quite a drop below – not one for the faint hearted. Nearer the top the path became slightly wider and rockier before finally breaking out on the top with views looking down onto the top of numerous fells and across the lower route to Hellvellyn and Dollywagon Pike opposite. Just as we reached the top we watched 2 RAF Tornado’s carrying out practice runs through the valleys and over the fells with their final run directly overhead where they then banked to starboard in unison, couldn’t get the camera out quick enough!
Lunch taken on top before walking the length of the ridge with excellent views all round, finally making the descent, which in places was steep and very wet. Overall a great day but slightly marred by the fact that my right ankle is beginning to get painful from a previous injury that I am now aggravating.
Now we have been going 4 days we are seeing the same people daily albeit they all seem to be doing the lower routes, Jeremy from Essex, an American Couple, 2 noisy girls from Manchester and 2 young lads who started by camping and carrying massive rucksacks but have since started B&B-ing and parcelled up a lot of their gear and sent it home.


Thursday 21st June            16miles 1071mtrs Height Gain (8 hrs)
Today we leave the Lake District with over 1000mtrs ascents and over 16 miles of walking. Left at 0900hrs and immediately into a long climb out of Patterdale that eventually gets to The Knotts (739mtrs) and then on up to the ridge of Kidsty Pike (780mtrs) with good views towards High Street, by now its 1230hrs so we stop on the top of Kidsty Pike for lunch, very windy and quite cold but still dry. After lunch we followed the ridge, initially on a slow descent that gradually became steeper towards the final part of the descent and opened up the view to Hawswater Reservoir, around the edges some small details of the now sunken town of Hawswater could still be seen. The path stayed away from the edge of the water as it is a privately owned reservoir and for a lot of the time the water could not be seen. At the end of the reservoir the path followed the picturesque Hawswater Beck for a short while before getting into meandering field paths and eventually reaching the ruins of Shap Abbey. Didn’t go to the Abbey Ruins but I carried on to Shap due to my ankle becoming sore and aching, starting to limp quite badly. Arrived at the accommodation of Fell House, Shap at 1700hrs


Friday 22nd June            19miles 621mtrs Height Gain (8½hrs)
Left Shap at 0900hrs with a short walk along the A6 and then crossing 3 fields to reach the bridge that crosses the M6 Motorway, ankle taking its time to loosen up and limping from the start however now into limestone country with a lot more grass underfoot which is easier walking. We continue across moorland and eventually reach Sunbiggin Tarn where we stop for lunch. The sky is getting darker and there are rain clouds all round us with thunder and lightning although for the time being we are still in the dry, this gives a very moody atmosphere, which could not be captured on camera. After lunch we carried on over similar countryside before reaching Smardale Bridge that is often shown on postcards and advertising for the local area. More meandering over fields with sheep, cattle and ponies, before a gentle drop down into Kirkby Stephen.
NOTE – Nice hotel in centre of town but being a Friday night the town was very noisy with drunken screaming females until 0200hrs. Spoke to others and they had the same, pity as it spoilt the day


Saturday 23rd June            15miles 663mtrs Height Gain (6½hrs)
Left Kirkby Stephen along back lanes and then a long meandering climb through peat bogs and over rocks up to the Nine Standard Riggs, the climb took 1¼hrs and the view kept coming and going with low cloud above, however the cloud lifted as we reached the top giving us good views back from where we had been yesterday. The Nine Standard Riggs are an impressive sight of 9 large Cairns, the history of them is unknown but some believe they were put up to scare off the Scots. Very cold and windy so only stayed a short while before moving on. The rest of the walking now became really wet Peat Bog and carefully picking your route through it. After a while we came to the Mill Stones where others had stopped for lunch so we joined them, making 13 walkers in total. One of them was covered in wet peat due to falling in to it, a youth with a large rucksack, poor chap. We then continued down to Whitsun Dale and then along How Edge Scars to Pork Bridge, a pretty Dales Bridge on the River Swale. Met the American couple there that had taken a wrong turn and ended walking on the road. At Thwaite went and had a couple of coffees in the Kearton Hotel where we were having our evening meal. My accommodation was in the next village of Muker at ‘The Village Shop’  and was Excellent.


Sunday 24th June            11miles 538mtrs Height Gain (6hrs)
Backtracked to Keld to commence todays walk with a steady climb up to Crackpot Hall followed by a steep narrow slippery path to Swinners Gill. From the Mines a ‘switchback’ path up the side of a hill to Shooting Box and eventually on to the old main mines road where we had lunch. Following lunch the route continued on through numerous old mines workings and smelting houses before it ended at Surrender Bridge. The route continued on narrow steep slippery paths and being worried that my ankle would give way and cause me to fall I went on by road. This was a good decision as Daniel slipped and fell and luckily was unhurt.


Monday 25th June
Heavy rain and high winds for today, first 1½miles on roads and having to use walking trainers as due to previous limping I had put pressure on my good ankle which had resulted in a rubbed sore area at the side of the ankle. Then into first ascent of the day over rough boulder track that went up through a wood, at the top we crossed a number of fields in driving wind and rain, due to the conditions becoming so bad it was decided to continue as much as possible on roads which included a steep 1 in 8 road descent into Marske which caused absolute agony to my ankle and almost bought tears to my eyes. I therefore made the decision to throw the towel in and give up the walk having completed 6 of todays 10 miles. I arranged a taxi to Richmond by knocking on doors and finding a very nice elderly lady who rang and arranged one for me.

On arriving back in the Isle of Man, on Wednesday 27th June, I contacted my doctor who diagnosed that I had suffered torn tendons and was put onto anti-inflammatory tablets and fluid dispersal tablets, I go back to see the doctor in 2 weeks time. I had carried that injury for 6 days.

Three weeks before leaving to do the Coast to Coast I had turned my ankle on a rock whilst doing a fairly easy hill walk, had a little bit of discomfort so just rested it for a couple of weeks and did a couple of 8 –10 mile walks on the week leading up the C2C. I had assumed that all was well with my ankle and have now learned the hard way that I should have sought medical advice when I initially injured it.

Brian

« Last Edit: 08:56:01, 08/07/07 by Brian »

M J B

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Re: Coast to Coast
« Reply #46 on: 21:44:34, 09/07/07 »
Great write up Brian, its going to take me some time to come up with some stuff for the days after.

It was a hard day at work today after two weeks off but everyone was treating me like a superhero (they think im mad) so that was quite nice.

andyweston

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Re: Coast to Coast
« Reply #47 on: 14:52:35, 17/02/08 »
walking the C2C in June.
Camping probably, though maybe cheap Hostels. Theres a new place opened at Shap. New Ing Lodge. Anyone heard of it?? Offers bunkbeds and camping.

martin

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Re: Coast to Coast
« Reply #48 on: 18:03:05, 16/03/08 »
looking to do c2c in may or june over 2 weeks if anyone wants to join me.  :) would be mostly (or all) camping. cheers, martin (33)

 

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