Day Nine When things start to go wrong – you’ve picked the wrong boots or raincoat, wandered off course a bit, chosen the wrong variant, eaten your last favourite chocolate chip flapjack, arrived at the estuary river crossing at high tide, burnt the bottom of your titanium pot, lost one of your new gloves, oh, so many niggly little things. Well instead of obsessing over these, remind yourself of the things that are going swimmingly – weather’s perfect, the scenery’s magnificent, the bothy has dry wood, no snorers in the hostel, the wildlife is out just to see me, you’ve captured some amazing camera shots… there’s more positives than negatives. Work out the ratios.
No one can expect everything to go to plan, just be adaptable & remain positive!
Don’t worry, saying that was not a pre-warning of doom ahead…just me promoting good mental health on the trail.
It’s a great time to declutter your mind, clearing out all those negative thoughts, replacing them with healthy ones.
“Sleep okay, Zen, in our new casita?”
“dreamily”
The inner tent has a huge door which Ian let down giving me the whole vestibule to stretch out.
I skipped across the river, whereas Ian, wary of a half-sleepy slip and soaking first thing, came gingerly over bare foot, risking cut feet on the rocks. After joining the 4x4 stony track we passed a few other tents sprinkled around. I sprinted ahead to greet a Scottish guy cycling over the brow. He was off to set up camp at the foot of a few Munros around for a bit of a climb & solace. We got a rare photo of Ian & me together.
The 4x4 track cut through a partially felled pine tree forest before hitting the road to Achnashellach. The weather was warming up to be the hottest day on the trail, as we passed the famous Gerry’s Hostel and headed North into Coire Earba, deciding against the shorter Coulin Pass.
Streams and brooks were dry, so Ian ventured off path to successfully find a little water, though not the best, but it did the trick – top man.
‘Be the person your dog thinks you are’, Mahamat Gandhi.
Some days, Ian is!
This was a steep energy sapping, zig zagging climb with loose rocks and high steps. Difficult to build any rhythm and momentum. I was amazed to see guys hurtling themselves down on mountain bikes & trail runners – apparently the trail is quite famous for biking.
Ian was overly hesitant at a junction – never a good sign!
With a slight tinge of regret Ian opted against the well-marked path West (on the map, but not detailed in the guidebook) that eventually leads to the renowned spectacular (but longer) route circulating Beinn Eighe.
The view West (we didn't take)
Waiting
If I am being honest, Ian does have the ability to quickly turn difficult decisions into well measured action, balancing risk – Survivor’s Wisdom they call it, but he can be a bit risk adverse.
The path we took
Instead we headed East, swayed by time of day, the heat, lack of water high in the mountains preferring the safer lower trail along Easan Dorcha & River Coulin where quenching thirst was guaranteed.
Even better was the waterfall for a soothing cooling dip at the quaint bothy, snug enough for a couple.
I urged Ian to have a shower – all I got to laugh at was him with his head under the falls.
This is becoming the coolest walk -
The valley opened out to reveal the majestic panorama of the massive solid rock-peaks of Liathach & Beinna Eighe.
Occasionally, the view of peaks from afar can be just as spectacular as being amongst them – debatable!
Ian packed himself some appropriate snacks
The trail followed some stony roads dotted with patches of felled harvested pine trees, before arriving on a paw-friendly, sun-warmed, straight deserted road to Kinlochewe. Even though Ian had booked to camp, we were given the last poorly positioned spot next to the car park, but, hey ho, we got our first mailed packages full of treats, so looking at the ratios, we’d had a glorious day full of positives, apparently in UK’s hottest place today!
Ian, me, phone & battery power pack all recharged in the pub, whilst I kid you not, the live act sang ‘I could walk 500 miles!’
I’d gladly walk 500miles of this!