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Regions - Trip reports, destination advice, recommended routes, etc. => Scotland => Topic started by: IanyZen on 18:59:25, 14/09/19

Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 18:59:25, 14/09/19
“Don’t beat yourself up if you cannot find the path, just make your own way in the right direction” Iain Harper
 If you’re okay with this, you’ll be at home on the Cape Wrath Trail
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48690470171_1b13fe41d7_b.jpg) (http://)

Hola amigos,
In case you haven't read any of our adventures before I'll introduce us - I'm Zen, the 4-legged cute but tough one in the photos.
My job is to find the best path through the bogs and take the p*ss out of Ian, who is not so tough.
As good as my bog avoiding skills are, Ian is as bad at map reading. His job is to not get us too lost, too often. Ian also has the unenviable task of carrying our casita (tent) and my food!
It's hard typing with these paws so I'll not write much and forgive me for posting any photos upside down. Same paw excuse. (pun intended)
 
“Zen, you cannot keep using the same paw pun!”   :-[
"So Zen, what aspirations have you got for this adventure?"
 
"Glad you asked, my wish list -
Long sun-drenched days
Freedom forests to run in
Fresh streams and rivers to quench thirst
Cooling snow for massages
Remote hut stays
Wild camps everywhere - hills, lochs, rivers, sandy beaches with ace views of course
My fav trekking food and treats
Fab surprise reward at end, and a . .
Hot b*tch to play with and fall in love
- not asking too much?"
 
"Hmm, a bit over the top with the 'sun'! It is Scotland after all"
 
"Oh, and NO swinging suspension bridge challenges"
"Don't worry, no bridge challenges” - Zen’ll be begging me by the end for bridges across the rivers, even swinging ones"
"The only challenge, a tough one, is to get to Cape Wrath Lighthouse"
"Un faro - hopefully enlightenment at the end - he needs it!"
 
Day One
I'm quite fond of a long train journey and they don't come much longer than Brighton to Inverness.
First equipment failure, already - my water bottle split - Resourceful Ian purchased a new wided-mouthed, easy to refill one.
To my relief, we visited the local pet shop for my fav trekking food & scooby meaty snacks.  O0
 
Ian successfully pleaded to the bus station manager to get me on the bus to Fort William
(no dogs allowed on most City Link services).
 :)
On the journey, I eagerly scanned the Loch, but no Nessie – phew”
We camped in the drizzle outside Fort William - I ruined Ian's inside mesh tent repairs by escaping while he had a shower.
Not keen on being shut in when there’s a fab world out there to discover.

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Any adventure that starts with a ferry is cool in my book!
Hopped off & looked for directional signs, for me to leave my usual starting mark (p*ss) and Ian to familarise himself with the siiii . . , but arrr !
"Ian, no signs!"  :o
"I know, we must use the map. No worries, we just head North, what can go wrong?"
Gulp!
“A lot! My worst fears realised immediately - we headed South!"  :crazy2:
 
“I don’t know where we are going but we are on our way… will it be an outdoor adventure or an inner voyage of discovery?”
 
Off the lead road walking - no cars, no one in sight - just the two of us – super.
Paranoia got to Ian after a couple of hours, thinking he had missed the turn off, frantically analysing the map he realised distances were depicted larger - why does he have to insist on learning on the job? - Glad he's not a vet!

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Ben Nevis – I think. We’ve been twice to Fort William but never attempted to climb it

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Wire bridge - "How's your balancing Zen?"
 
A first day, quiet meandering welcome introductory stroll, just a few sodden paths, sucking you into thinking the Cape Wrath Trail will be easy . . .

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I’m intrigued, what is this Trail all about . .?
Wild, spectacular and more . .
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Sudden hail shower - We found shelter under this -

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First sight of people. Strange .. .not people - Ian shared an ice-cream – surely, nothing to celebrate yet, or maybe it was our last chance to enjoy one..

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“Hey! You said NO suspension bridges!”   :knuppel2:
Avoided, thankfully.
 
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Corryhully Bothy – one of very few with electricity and dry firewood, such luxury.

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Stayed with two other hikers, seriously laden down, who’d taken 2 days to get here.
The Trail is tough!

Good to be up and running so early with my wish list – hut stay ticked off.
 O0
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Jac on 19:26:38, 14/09/19
Welcome back Zen, you're looking good  - and Ian too, of course.
Looking forward to this trip as I always enjoy Zen's humour :)
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 20:08:37, 14/09/19
Welcome back Zen, you're looking good  - and Ian too, of course.
Looking forward to this trip as I always enjoy Zen's humour :)
"Thanks Jac, it's good to be back to share our adventures . . Day Two coming up . . . "
Zen  :coolsmiley:
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 20:33:13, 14/09/19
Day Two
‘Walking, a pleasure we suffer, a cure we enjoy.’

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 Low hill hugging drizzly mist greeted our exit from the bothy – onwards and upwards on the trail, to our first river crossings.
Ian had grown some weird arm extensions, making him look like some sort of 4-legged Martian spider. Most peculiar.
I’m all for going on all fours, but this is ridiculous!  ;D
I tried to show Ian ‘the Zen way of crossing rivers’ – just dive in and wade straight across. No worries.
Ian insisted on boulder hopping trying to keep his feet dry, which was pointless - it was raining, and the trails were mini streams…
And he had holes in his walking shoes!
Ian can be obstinate and wouldn’t listen or learn as I repeated my lesson on the 2nd river crossing.   :tickedoff:
Tragically he slipped…


Call us Zen brothers – I reckon my Zen has rubbed off on him as after a few explicit 4 letter words, screamed and echoed down the glen he nonchalantly cleaned and inspected the wound – no bones sticking out - glanced back at the 1 hour walk we’ve done and calmly continued on, upwards into the rain & mist.
 O0 
Unsurprisingly lesson was learnt on next river – no qualms – Ian went straight through the rapids without breaking stride.
Maybe my ‘dad’ is tougher than I make out.    :)                                                           
 
 
We descended into Gleann Cuirnean

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Me, wandering off path, well there was no path . .


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Nice – sturdy bridge over River Pean


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Freedom forest – ticked off my wish list


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We were first guests at A’Chuil Bothy, which was cold and dark, but invitingly dry.
Ian’s poor attempt at fire making with the pitiful pile of twigs was appreciated, without much warming effect, sadly.
His ripped, blood splattered waterproof trousers and shin were embarrassing, but I didn’t really care.
We were out in the wild, snuggling up together and warming up.
 :smitten: 
Tomorrow, Glen Dessarry and the appropriately named 'Rough Bounds of Knoydart' gloriously await.
 :) 
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: sunnydale on 21:23:22, 14/09/19
Enjoyed that lots Zen, thanks for posting! (you're such a clever doggy! :D )
Great photos too!


Tracey :)
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Owen on 09:56:46, 15/09/19
Nice photo's and write up.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 10:33:33, 15/09/19
Nasty would that - make sure that you look after him, Zen.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 23:28:25, 15/09/19
Day Three
‘Walking - A joy that disturbs you, knocks you out of your comfort zone.
 
It’s just been Ian & I for a while now, Ian with not having much success in his quest for a mate.
“Ian, I’m puzzled. Your friend’s advice to find a partner: ‘Go out and do something wild’, I don’t think they were thinking of Knoydart, the wildest, remotest, part of the Scottish Highlands!”
“Hmm, you could be right Zen” – We never saw a soul all day!”
 
We headed through the boggy forest (if I forget to write the word ‘boggy’, just assume that it is) then upwards over rough terrain (same applies to word 'rough')  to Upper Glen Dessarry, the path dwarfed by 3 surrounding Munros, reminiscent of a Lord of the Rings scene.


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48733956807_736a341cd6_b.jpg) (http://)
"Ian, you need some new boots?

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Me having a bath.. I wish Ian would .. after 3 days, he doesn't smell ... well you can imagine.

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First views of magnificent Loch Nevis
Fingers crossed beach walk ahead...  :)

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Loch Nevis and beautiful inviting wooden furnished Sourlies bothy (just to left of Zen in the photo, it's very small)

Carnoch Bridge has been removed, and not replaced yet – so Ian, undeterred, after Sourlies headed along the beach
"Yeah..beach walk " and up the East side of the river.
(Ian has since read that this way is not recommended, especially when the river is in spate - Ian's planning is usually very good)

I yelped when virtually Ian’s entire leg disappeared in the bog, thick muddy, sludgy variety - Yuk … Scary to think, I’d have been swallowed up.  :o
Carnoch River was wide, deep and fast flowing. This is going to be tricky.
We crossed 3 tributary rivers, each slightly troublesome, just to find a spot, higher up the glen to cross Carnoch River, only for Ian to wade half-way across before glancing back to see me trembling all alone, left on the bank.
Thankfully he came back.  :angel:
“Got cold feet Zen?” ;D
I had, but not as much as his...the water was straight from the snow speckled Munros.
We tried higher up, the very last place possible and crossed slowly with me tied to Zen...no leaving me this time.

Circling round through a narrow gorge to reveal a stunning clearing -
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This made a cool break, though Ian used it to calm his heart down..the river crossing was a nervous one.

“Zen, life is chaotic. We fight to gain control, struggle to find rhythm & regularity.
Sometimes, we need to throw ourselves into the natural world, trusting our survival skills. Anarchy abounds as we carelessly wander the wrong way, discovering treasures, stop for a break to sit on an inviting stone and on carefree whim, set up a wild-camp.”
 
“Ian, in your case . . . set up camp when you get lost!”  ;D
 
“Zen, a wiser man than me said, ‘Not all who meander, are lost’ (John Muir)”
 
We meandered, zig-zagging down the waterlogged pathless terrain for the best part of an hour, then another half, before Ian finally admitted, “Zen, we’re lost”.  :-[
Never in doubt!
We turned back.
For punishment, I took us back along the exact same zig-zagged route, drenching his feet once more!  :D
It also guaranteed we didn't get more lost.  Believe me, with Ian that is possible!

I’ll give Ian some credit for one good decision – we wild camped at the stunning clearing, which he knew was on the path.
Ian reflected in a tough day.
“Knoydart is special - I feel we are slowly getting acquainted. The Highlands are gradually becoming our friends.
The more we meander, the less we seem lost”
 :smitten:
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Owen on 06:18:22, 16/09/19
I'm not sure there is a path from there on, I just walked up the stream through the gorge.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 08:36:30, 16/09/19
Wonderful, wild country. The river crossings sound as if they are not for the faint hearted, though!
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: April on 16:31:57, 16/09/19
What a great read Zen, I hope Ian's leg is getting better  O0

That is wild walking country up there  :)
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Jac on 17:21:55, 16/09/19
Ouch - hope the leg has healed ok. Another triumph, Zen, retracing your (zig zags) steps to keep Ian from total lostness :)
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 22:29:48, 17/09/19
Nasty would that - make sure that you look after him, Zen.
"Thanks Richard for the vote of confidence . . . being at the same level of Ian's leg I get an eyeful all day long.
The rain and river crossings seem to be keeping it clean plus there's plenty of fresh up here"
Zen
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 23:35:00, 17/09/19
Day Four
‘Life’s events, have shaped us, our minds, out of shape, time to walk that mind back into shape.’
 
There’s nothing like waking up, not knowing the way, to focus your mind!
“Vamos Zen. Let’s find that path out of here!”
… I love the confidence, but there were no paths!
 
“Zen this feels right”
Great, we’re reduced to gut feeling to get out of here . .  :D

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48695205413_40eae40367_b.jpg) (http://)
A leap of faith, well more like a scramble up the slope to reveal the view of the snaking river we'd zig-zagged-back and forth along 3 times . . .
And a path heading North.  O0
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Hey, we were on our way, speedily, skipping up and over and down . .
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View of Barrisdale Bay ahead


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Oooh, Stags and a bothy (we were meant to be last night)

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Our renewed cheerfulness was matched by the uplift in the weather with patches of blue sky and thankfully no drizzle.


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We lunched by the Bay and then continued on what seemed a well-defined path, but soon faded into short sharp climbs and drops around the Loch to Kinloch Hourn, where a tarmac road greeted us and even better … a B&B. 
Ian took no arm twisting to grab the last room going.  ;D
Ian glorified in a long overdue steaming hot soapy shower and I got a jet powered cold water hosing down! Part of the deal to let us stay.
I did get my own bed though . . please don’t tell the B&B owner.  :P
A well-earned and needed kip.  :)
zzzzz
 :smitten: 
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 08:36:38, 18/09/19
Fine atmospheric photos, that path looks very enticing, and a good shot of the stag.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: BrionyB on 18:18:40, 18/09/19
Magnificent, rugged country (Zen looks like a wild wolf in some of the photos - except for his collar - what a handsome boy) and a great write-up. I like the meandering approach to walking myself  :) .
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 22:31:36, 17/07/20

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Day Five

“He who walks, lives longer
Walks away from problems, walks to find answers
Sharpens the memory, slowness quickens the mind
Blood pressure falls, euphoric highs
Immune system strengthened
Inhaling life, exhaling smiles”

Nothing like a pandemic and isolating at home to awaken you to what’s really important in life …. Walking in Scottish Highlands, so let’s not waste any time and get back there …  O0

I woke to a window view of dozens of deer chomping on the grass outside the B&B and Ian, to real coffee and a cooked breakfast – equally delightful, he proclaimed.
With dew dripping from the fauna and dampness perforating the air, we circled round the Loch point following a dirt track into a wee wood, with poignant tips for river crossings ahead ringing in Ian’s ears from the B&B owner.
Ian was toying with me.. each time we came to a split in the path, he tossed a coin to decide which one to go down – route finding by luck, whatever next.
The trail fords Allt a'Coire Reidh river (wide but slow, even in rain) next to a small deer stalking hut that can be used for sleeping if needed (not locked, with one bench).
Welcome dry feet and a track gave me the chance for a chat…
“As we’ve had a few mishaps and not wishing anything else bad, Ian, but for a bit of fun, would you like to know my anti-wish list as well … with the aim of crossing off as few as possible
"Hmm, let’s hear it . ."

“Get lost
Fall and injury ourselves
Cannot make a decent fire”
“...Come on Zen, sounds like ‘take the [censored] out of me’ list - that’s 100% crossed at the mo!”
 :knuppel2: 

“Hear me out..
Posted parcel not be delivered”
- Ooh Ian, you did remember to post a couple? – not too many shops round here!”
“Yeah, lots of treats for me, ha ha!”  :)

“Stuck in a bog - who’ll be the first?
Lose your phone / phone malfunction
Rain everyday & Highland’s special - horizontal rain
Tent leak
Soaking sleeping bag
Fall sick
Pneumonia
Dehydration”
“though fat chance of that, Zen.. no sun”   :(
 
Turn back due to impassable river”
“… almost on the last one”

“Broken rib”
“No, Zen, not that again!”   :-[
“I’ll never forget the pain on your face when you sneezed… “   :'(
 
“Blisters”,
“Arr Zen – remember those you had in Spanish Pyrenees!”   :'(
“How could I not. Not sure what was worse, the pain or the embarrassment of wearing those ridiculous boots you made out of polystyrene foam sheets!
“We both picked ourselves up and finished the treks though”
 
“How about … Run out of food”
“Oh no, Ian please no, horror upon horrors!   :(
 
“Maybe this wasn’t such a good idea after all, I’ll have nightmares now about no food!
At least it’ll focus our mind on keeping safe!”

“It hasn’t rained today…yet, so I’d say 3 crosses so far …
Let’s keep it just 3!
How many have we ticked off your wish-list …?”
 
“Four:
Freedom forests, Fresh streams and rivers, Remote hut stay & a wild camp alongside a river”
“one more with ‘Ace views’ …here’s another”
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Near a deep stalking hut, Allt a'Coire Reidh river was thankfully low. Given the luxury of dry feet, I was surprised Ian waded straight through.. must be worse up ahead.. oh, so right he was…

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I cheerily trotted along the track until Ian, gestured off it, upwards steeply to Forcan Ridge and we revelled in the boggy world of the true Highlands. This was majestic.
I swear, the colossal quantity of water in the saturated earth defied the laws of physics..
As we contoured around Sgurr n Sgine edging upwards to Bealach Coire Mhalagain, I thought I will have developed webbed feet before we make it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50123742141_ab2b886479_k.jpg) (http://)
(One of Ian’s favourite photos)
 
Up and over for the next 4 hours of trudging through pathless boggy terrain, Ian’s expression relaxed, and confidence beamed. Strange as there was no remote trail at all. Here was where he finally realised there was no point beating yourself up if you cannot find the path, just make your own way in the right direction. Enlightenment & heightened enjoyment personified.
My lost boy is finally found!   :)

At the spectacular pass, one of highest on the trail, with views of the Forcan Ridge, and monros -Sgurr na Sgine and Sgurr na Forcan we had not one, but two surprises – another human, the first one we had met whilst walking (others were at the bothies & tourists at Glenfinnan) & some snow – yay.
Whilst I ran for cool down, back massage in the snow, Ian grabbed her to take a photo, which she reluctantly did and then rapidly disappeared, leaving Ian’s long-awaited desire for a human conversation blowing away in the wind.


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Walking with wet feet was sufferable but sitting with them rapidly freezing was less so. Our well-earned break was short lived.
My paws are built for Highlands, whereas shoe choice is a bit of dilemma for Ian – go with trail shoes or high-sided fully sealed waterproof boots? – You can try waterproof boots, plastic bags, gaiters, remove shoes & socks for river crossings, but believe me, on the Trail, your feet will still get soaked!
Ian went for trail shoes (Inov8) – at least they let the water run out (especially with the holes in his) and dry quickly. Several quick drying socks are a must. A dry pair to change into at the end of a day – oh, looking at Ian’s expression, a pure luxury.

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We tackled a line of stones along a trail of sorts amongst them before gasping at the gorgeous views below.
With me zooming ahead along the ridge to get a wider view, Ian, halted me in my tracks, yelling ‘por alla’ and his hand gesturing down into the swampy nirvana.

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Can you spot me?

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Thankful to robust knees, we descended like two kids gleefully running for ice-cream, to follow the river, Allt Undalain, menacingly growing, expanding, gathering pace, knowing that we’ll have to cross at some point.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50123189773_ab18d9aa66_k.jpg) (http://)

When joining another swelling river at the foot of the glen, Ian’s eagerness to cross was pushed into action and we ventured gingerly across.
 
More ‘Zen’ tips for river crossing:
Check flow by throwing a stick in,
Always know your entry and exit point, away from steep banks, before getting in.
Undo backpack waist strap.
Consider taking one arm out - if you fall your heavy backpack will not force you down under the water but can be easily be ditched or used as a buoyancy aide.
Keep your footwear on – better grip than bare feet plus it avoids an injury on the rocks.
Wade (don’t jump) in
Use poles/sticks to test depth ahead.
Cross, facing up stream, and side-step across, bracing yourself using your stronger upper leg muscles against the river attempting to take your legs away.
Slowly cross with small steps. Never cross your feet over.
Watch out and avoid rapids, white water, forest furniture – branches, tree trunks

Which is all great when the river is knee height to Ian, but not so fab for little, short me.
I had to do the ‘hero-swim’ – always best naked!

“The rivers flow not past, but through us. Thrilling, tingling, vibrating every fibre and cell of the substance of our bodies, making them glide and sing”  John Muir

“Zen, perfect doggy-paddle!”
At least I wouldn’t need a jet powered cold water hosing down.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50123190828_2c33d7b9b4_k.jpg) (http://)
Final river crossing tip – If it’s fast moving and deep, do not cross and either wait until the level drops or look to cross upstream where there’s usually less water, or dare I say it, hope for a swinging suspension bridge!
 
An easy trail led to civilisation - Shiel Bridge and Fish Trail Lodge – Yay, we picked up our first posted packets of goodies (one each), a private room and a pub meal with a soft carpet to sprawl out on and dream of more of the same, ticking off my wishes.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50123194723_7bc57c33c8_k.jpg) (http://)
 Fish Tail Lodge


zzz
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 07:56:47, 18/07/20
Wonderful stuff - good to hear from you, Zen - I hope that you have been looking after Ian. ;)


I'll add to your river crossing tips for humans - take your boots and socks off, then put your boots back on to cross the river - that way at least the socks stay dry!
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 19:48:21, 18/07/20

Thanks Richard. Keeping the socks dry would probably make them smell less as well. Always a bonus with Ian  :D


Day Six
‘Don’t plan everything, you’ll want to leave room for some unexpected madness, just enough to make things exciting, but not too crazy’

Consecutive nights in a bed do wonders to recharge your energy levels. We exuberantly left with a spring in our steps.
We had shared the lodge with a couple of local Munro baggers, who had all gone high tech with gadgets hanging off their backpackers.
Maybe through cost, lack of technical know-how or wish to travel light, Ian had opted for just the paper map/compass navigation way, which is commendable… if you know how to read & use one!
 
“Courage is knowing it might hurt but doing it anyway.
Stupidity is the same.
And that’s why life is hard”
 
“Wow, Zen, so brave of you to follow me!”
“I was thinking how idiotic!”
 
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Fortunately, navigation was straightforward with trails through Dorusdain Wood. Freedom to run and explore.  :)

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Large herds of roe deer accompanied us on both sides, steepily over Bealach na Sroine to the hugely impressive Falls of Glomach (UK’s largest drop falls, over 100m).
 
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Warnings galore spoke of tricky, slippery awkward treacherous trails along-side the steep sided gorge, above the river, Allt a’Glomach.
Due care was taken.
Having negotiated the worst, we rested for lunch.
 
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Upon crossing a boulder strewn river cascading from the left, I was wandering ahead and came across a strange precipice, with a dusty near vertical drop of 2 or so metres. I peered over the edge to the path below. This was unusually difficult for the Cape Wrath Trail, challenging, but not impossible.

Ian had this idea of unhooking his backpack and climbing down face against the earth, using the exposed rocks for supports. I could see that I would have to edge myself down and make a jump for it. I could do it.
I eagerly gazed down from above as Ian, half way, lowered his backpack and dropped it…and we watched in slow motion, the bag bounce, roll over, gather pace, swerve round the rocks, dodge the trees and disappear over the edge, swallowed up by the river ravaged gorge.
 
Our bag … gone!  :'(
Our casita … gone!  :'(
Our food … gone!  :'(
Our adventure … gone!  :'(   :'(
 
“Your calm mind is the ultimate weapon against your challenges”
 
“To be calm is the highest achievement of the self”
a Zen proverb, though not mine.
 
For all his failings, Ian’s greatest strengths is his calmness. I do not know how he does it, but I am so thankful.
I was trembling. Ian slipped, cutting his knees, dusted himself off and guided me along the previously hidden, now obvious, much easier route down and just said, “at least we are fine, that’s all that matters”.
I’d have cried, but laughed when Ian then said, ‘Bet that wasn’t on your anti-wish list!’
 
Let’s consider the situation:
Ian, donned in wet trail shoes & socks, shorts, three thin clothing layers and a lightweight waterproof coat, emptied his pockets - half a granola bar, Harvey’s Cape Wrath Trail map, a few tissues, Cape Wrath guidebook and an old iphone with 75% battery rapidly reducing and me.
It was cloudy with no immediate threat of rain. The time - 2.15pm and at least 5 hours back to Shiel Bridge.
Harvey map shows: Further along the Trail, a 4x4 dirt road going East past a couple of lodges, with no guarantee of anyone home, then North onto a boggy trail to the day’s planned destination, an isolated bothy – Maol-bhuidhe, or, the 4x4 dirt road heading West but doesn’t show where to.
 
So, no injuries for Ian or me no family or friends in Scotland, no one visibly around, no money, very little food, no dog food, plenty of rivers, but no bottle, no adequate warm clothing, no shelter, and a poor map of the area.
 
Ian wanted me to pause the trip report here, as we all love cliff-hangers, and ask you for options on what to do next….
Though, you know I wouldn’t be writing this if we hadn’t survived.
 
I kept quiet but thought that it was a touch ironic that Ian’d spent hours packing his bag with carefully chosen items, preparing for every possible scenario, except the one about losing his bag full of all that precious gear.
 
Whilst the immediate situation was not dangerous, it was important to keep a level head, control your breathing - deep slow breaths, in through your nose and out through your mouth, reducing your heart rate and controlling your body’s adrenaline and endorphin production and conserving energy.

‘Smile, breath and go slowly’
 
But what about ‘Fight or Flight?’ - a surge of adrenaline, your heartbeat quickened, you begin breathing faster, and your entire body becomes tense and ready to take action …
 
Hardly, surprisingly then when Ian glimpsed his backpack floating way down below in the gorge’s rapids he spontaneously sprinted down the hill to catch it, cut it off and dream of recovering his expensively assembled kit … and my food of course!
I wasn’t hanging about and eagerly pursued him.
 
To ‘fight’ would be to make every effort, regardless of danger, to get the backpack and continue with our adventure.
I feared the newspaper headlines, you know the ones, ‘Man & Dog airlifted from gorge by Mountain Rescue whilst looking for backpack!’
 
Wasted effort? Well not quite, even though there was no sign of the backpack, we bumped into a Dutch Biology teacher having his lunch.
He gave Ian £20, but even better, he was heading West, along the 4x4 road and had a map showing a route back to civilisation, albeit 3-4 hours away. We gladly joined him.
Relief – Ian was in ‘flight’ mode!
‘Fight or Flight?’ – I suppose you don’t really know the answer until you’re in a survival situation.
 
I thought we were out of the woods – We had to take evasive action and take a wide birth around the hairy Highland cattle protecting their young ones.
Out of the blue, a small car came from behind. Ian flagged it down and regaled our lost bag escapade. Sarah, a fellow trail runner and doggie owner (a hyperactive spaniel in the back) was off into town and agreed to give Ian & me a lift to Kyle of Lochalsh.
Sarah, a gem of a saint, took out £50, paid for the soon departing train to Inverness (lucky as only 2 or 3 a day) and gave Ian the change, and promised to look for the backpack tomorrow.
 
In silence, we sat together, Ian’s arm cuddling me, as the train sped through the spectacular Highlands, past Achnasheen, where we would have been tomorrow. The tears gradually weld up in his eyes, finally dawning on him, we were leaving the Highlands & our adventure was over, Ian croaked, “We’ll come back, I promise Zen”
  8)
And we did!   :smitten:
That was May 2018, and in May 2019 we came back!
 
First, I will fill in the gaps – Ian’s phone battery died on the train. The police at Inverness Station let him use their phone to call his brother who paid for a B&B. We couldn’t prove we had a train ticket to Brighton, so he also purchased our train home, though Virgin did refund it later. [/color]
Strange new times - when was the last time you took a train without a mobile phone?  The journey was 8hrs, Inverness to Kings Cross and 1hr 20mins to Brighton.
Miraculous! Precariously stranded in the gorge, Sarah found and retrieved our backpack!  :angel:
Her dog rewarded with all my packets of food and fav trekking snacks. Well earned!  O0
All kit, sentimental and expensive items, dried, washed and posted back.  :)
Amazingly the only casualties were our casita & SLR camera (photos survived), which were on the outside of the backpack.
 
Begs the question: Should we have stayed in the Highlands, searched for and retrieved the bag and continued on the Trail?
No, with no food, nowhere to stay that night and to continue the trek without a tent, would have been fool-hardy!



nos vemos muy pronto  :-*
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Islandplodder on 21:18:12, 18/07/20
What a disaster! Glad you got home safely, and looking forward to hearing what happened when you went back to the trail.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Ridge on 22:47:45, 18/07/20
Wow, so easily done.
Can't wait for the next instalment.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Dodgylegs on 23:52:06, 18/07/20
Flippin' Nora!
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 13:50:53, 19/07/20
Day Seven – The Return
“The comeback is always stronger than the setback!”
 
Fitter, revigorated, older & more determined – definitely. Wiser – hmm, I hope so!
So what was new. Well, Ian had replaced the camera with another cheap one, and the tent with a more expensive one. Good to see he’d got his priorities right.
Unbelievably, he still had the same trail shoes with the holes stitched up by a cobbler in the souks in Marrakech.   :D
 
“Ian, one year on, have you embraced the technological trekking age at all?”
“Yeah, I’ve got this app on my phone that shows details of all the paths and trails by using GPS, it worked fab in Morocco”
”Is that the one where the paths disappeared when you were on the Mt Toubkal Circuit without signal as you’d forgotten to download the next section?”
“Err, yeah, but I’ve got the whole of Scotland on the phone”
“Ian, but the wildest, hardest to navigate sections of The Cape Wrath Trail are pathless!”
“Arr. I’ve still got the guidebook, maps and compass”
I wasn’t feeling reassured!
 ::)

We returned in style O0 
Definitely a trip licking your lips with anticipation!
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Then the same train (from the year before) back to Kyle of Lochalsh, a more enjoyable journey.
There wasn’t a bus for more than an hour and Ian wasn’t convinced the driver would let us on anyway, so we hitched.
The sun was out and we were beaming.  :)
 
A couple of kms of pleasant roadside walking and two hitched lifts to Dornie and we lunched at the medieval Eilean Doan Castle. It was 2pm.

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“What is lost has returned to me, what is far away is near me today.”
A truly fitting spectacle to recommence the trek.
 
A locally known overgrown longish trail led us through a narrow pass and sharply down to deserted houses and eventually over River Elchaig to a dirt road.
 
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“Ian, this feels familiar. I’m sure that Highland calf back there recognised me!”
The same 4x4 road we had walked with the Dutchman, but heading East, back to The Cape Wrath Trail. I felt at home.
 :smitten: 
 
“If you feel lost, disappointed, hesitant, or weak, return to yourself, to who you are, here and now and when you get there, you will discover yourself, like a lotus flower in full bloom, even in a muddy pond, beautiful and strong.”
 
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As we approached the trail that met the 4x4 track, the one from Falls of Glomach. Ian sat on a rock gazing up the gorge, as if in quiet prayer to say thanks.
“Zen, there is nothing more pleasing that returning to a place where you have endured hardship. I’ve been dreaming of this moment since we left"
With the sun high, but noticeably dropping, in a single footstep we renewed our acquaintance with the Cape Wrath Trail and continued our adventure to enlightenment, err, Cape Wrath Lighthouse.
 
The evening sun, shone on the hills, the loch and warmed our faces as we strolled past a couple of Lodges, surrounded by herds of quite inquisitive deer. We veered North onto a grassy trail…
 
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“So Zen, what have you been up to over that last year”
“Well, you remember that guy who said ‘Not everyone who meanders is lost’”
“John Muir”
“Yeah, I’ve reading about him & I think him and me share an affinity with the hills”
“Cool, do you have any inspiration quotes for our renewed adventure?”

“I only went out for a walk, finally stayed out till sundown, for going out, I found was really going in” 
 :coolsmiley: 
 
Very appropriate as through the sunset, we glimpsed our day’s glorious resting place, the stunningly isolated, recently refurbished wooden ‘interior-designed’ bothy, decorated with candle lanterns – Maol-bhuidhe.

We had left Brighton at 6pm last night and arrived a year later!
 :) 
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Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Ridge on 14:17:13, 19/07/20
Good to see the start of your report on the next stage of your trek.
I'm surprised that you decided to take that Ian bloke with you again, seems a liability to me.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 20:21:58, 19/07/20
Good to see the start of your report on the next stage of your trek.
I'm surprised that you decided to take that Ian bloke with you again, seems a liability to me.


 :D 


Bit of an epic you had there, Zen. Particularly like the first photo on day 6.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 10:55:24, 26/07/20
Good to see the start of your report on the next stage of your trek.
I'm surprised that you decided to take that Ian bloke with you again, seems a liability to me.


Believe me Ridge, I asked around, but no takers.
I suppose I'm stuck with Ian  :P
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Birdman on 12:19:53, 26/07/20
Nice! I recognise most of the places on the photos. But I had it so much easier, because it was exceptionally dry when I hiked the CWT last year. I kept my feet dry on the entire walk! (I'm not lying). Even crossing the Carnach River (bridge still missing) the water never came above the edge of my boots.


Along the Falls of Glomach was a bit tricky I recall, but I never had to climb down the way you did when you lost your pack, so I guess you took the wrong path there.


I enjoyed reading your report! :) Looking forward to the rest!
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 12:24:20, 26/07/20
Day Eight

‘Fresh air, yes, just fresh unequivocally un-polluted pure fresh air. Anywhere else, is, well, not.
Filling our lungs to our heart’s content, only to let it all out, so we can gorge once more on the feast.’
 
No matter how beautiful being inside the bothy was, it had nothing on breakfast, outside in the sun - A new experience! The luscious greens of the hills and sparkling blues of the loch…The Highlands were alight.

Indecision – I do not need this worry. Ian let on that his map guided him North and then East skirted round Beinn Dronaig in front of us, (see photo at end of yesterday), whilst his guidebook directed us West, then North.
I was relieved he chose one option and decided not to go straight over the top.
 
“Why West Ian?”
“No trails for a while – I fancied a bit of a pathless yomp through the heather & bogs – I’ve missed it!
“Me too, a bit. I challenge you then – get us on that trail”
 
Our first river Lub Chruinn was negotiated with ease and we were soon gaining height, not through a necessity, more of a desire to enjoy the wonderful views from a higher perspective. It was good to be back in the wilds.
Ian loves contouring hills. A challenge on the eye, to find the perfect angle to circumnavigate the hill, ascending without wasting too much energy to have the best line for the forthcoming descent. He also believes, contouring higher avoid the bogs – Wrong!
 
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Plodding along in no real hurry, Ian announced “Zen, we should be hitting the start of that trial about now…and here it is!”
Beginners luck! Spawny devil!  >:D
 
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We descended & popped into for a nosy around the estate bothy – Bendronaig Lodge, equipped with electricity, flushing water & a wood burner. Place was deserted with no real evidence of anyone staying recently.
On a 4x4 track we headed West, rather than east to Strathcarron. Ian was keen to spend as much time in the wilderness and try to avoid town/villages unless necessary. More importantly the only place to sleep, Strathcarron Hotel isn’t dog friendly, so why bother!
On meeting the other path descending from round Beinn Dronaig we veered North…instantly filling me with relief – we’re heading in the right direction,

"Hey, you said no suspension bridges, especially ones like this"  :knuppel2:
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We took the river, very refreshing.

We sauntered passed a gorgeous Loch
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and onto a trail which petered out as we climbed between rocks and boulders hap-hazardously strewn up to Bealach Bhearnais.
“Ian, bet you cannot find the new path on the other side of the pass"
To be honest, I didn’t really care, this was glorious freedom wandering in the wilderness, but at least it got Ian’s mind on where we were heading!
Incredibly, we strolled effortlessly onto a faint trail as it appeared without altering our stride.
How does he do it? 2 out 2! Another fluke.
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Approaching a river, disappointingly the wire bridge had been removed, as Ian would’ve had a go, and fallen in the river for sure, which would have been hilarious. He got his feet wet crossing anyway.
The afternoon sun beams were disappearing from the surrounding hills, as we followed an unusual gravel path, Ian surveyed the inviting grassy banks of Allt a Chonasis for the most idealic of camps. There were many choice spots.
Surprisingly, Ian opted for one on the other side of the river, giving him one last dodgy river crossing, and risking wet feet first thing tomorrow. It was sumptuous and a fitting location for our first time camping in our new tent - more like a space dome/tardis as it feels more spacious inside due to the abundance of light than it looks. It was a thing of beauty, surpassed only by our surroundings.


Licking your lips (or nose) time for lunch  O0
 
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“Everybody needs beauty, places to play in and pray in where nature may heal and cheer and give strength to the body and soul alike”
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 12:54:20, 26/07/20
Wonderful stuff, Zen - I've been following your route on OS maps - glad to see that you are keeping Ian on the right track!
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Jac on 13:24:47, 26/07/20
Your new casita looks quite palatial, Zen - room to sit up without bending your ears.
Ian is certainly doing well with the navigation this time - so far ;)
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 20:54:55, 26/07/20
Day Nine
 
When things start to go wrong – you’ve picked the wrong boots or raincoat, wandered off course a bit, chosen the wrong variant, eaten your last favourite chocolate chip flapjack, arrived at the estuary river crossing at high tide, burnt the bottom of your titanium pot, lost one of your new gloves, oh, so many niggly little things. Well instead of obsessing over these, remind yourself of the things that are going swimmingly – weather’s perfect, the scenery’s magnificent, the bothy has dry wood, no snorers in the hostel, the wildlife is out just to see me, you’ve captured some amazing camera shots… there’s more positives than negatives. Work out the ratios.
No one can expect everything to go to plan, just be adaptable & remain positive!  O0
 
Don’t worry, saying that was not a pre-warning of doom ahead…just me promoting good mental health on the trail.
It’s a great time to declutter your mind, clearing out all those negative thoughts, replacing them with healthy ones.
 
“Sleep okay, Zen, in our new casita?”
“dreamily”
The inner tent has a huge door which Ian let down giving me the whole vestibule to stretch out.  :)
 
I skipped across the river, whereas Ian, wary of a half-sleepy slip and soaking first thing, came gingerly over bare foot, risking cut feet on the rocks. After joining the 4x4 stony track we passed a few other tents sprinkled around. I sprinted ahead to greet a Scottish guy cycling over the brow. He was off to set up camp at the foot of a few Munros around for a bit of a climb & solace. We got a rare photo of Ian & me together.
 
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The 4x4 track cut through a partially felled pine tree forest before hitting the road to Achnashellach. The weather was warming up to be the hottest day on the trail, as we passed the famous Gerry’s Hostel and headed North into Coire Earba, deciding against the shorter Coulin Pass.
 
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Streams and brooks were dry, so Ian ventured off path to successfully find a little water, though not the best, but it did the trick – top man.

‘Be the person your dog thinks you are’, Mahamat Gandhi.
Some days, Ian is!  :angel:
 
This was a steep energy sapping, zig zagging climb with loose rocks and high steps. Difficult to build any rhythm and momentum. I was amazed to see guys hurtling themselves down on mountain bikes & trail runners – apparently the trail is quite famous for biking.
 
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Ian was overly hesitant at a junction – never a good sign!
With a slight tinge of regret Ian opted against the well-marked path West (on the map, but not detailed in the guidebook) that eventually leads to the renowned spectacular (but longer) route circulating Beinn Eighe.
The view West (we didn't take)
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Waiting

If I am being honest, Ian does have the ability to quickly turn difficult decisions into well measured action, balancing risk – Survivor’s Wisdom they call it, but he can be a bit risk adverse.

The path we took
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Instead we headed East, swayed by time of day, the heat, lack of water high in the mountains preferring the safer lower trail along Easan Dorcha & River Coulin where quenching thirst was guaranteed.
Even better was the waterfall for a soothing cooling dip at the quaint bothy, snug enough for a couple.
I urged Ian to have a shower – all I got to laugh at was him with his head under the falls.  ;D
 
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This is becoming the coolest walk -  :coolsmiley:
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The valley opened out to reveal the majestic panorama of the massive solid rock-peaks of Liathach & Beinna Eighe.
Occasionally, the view of peaks from afar can be just as spectacular as being amongst them – debatable!

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Ian packed himself some appropriate snacks  ;D
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The trail followed some stony roads dotted with patches of felled harvested pine trees, before arriving on a paw-friendly, sun-warmed, straight deserted road to Kinlochewe. Even though Ian had booked to camp, we were given the last poorly positioned spot next to the car park, but, hey ho, we got our first mailed packages full of treats, so looking at the ratios, we’d had a glorious day full of positives, apparently in UK’s hottest place today!
 
Ian, me, phone & battery power pack all recharged in the pub, whilst I kid you not, the live act sang ‘I could walk 500 miles!’  :D
I’d gladly walk 500miles of this!  O0
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 21:22:40, 26/07/20
Another wonderful day - you are getting into country that I am somewhat more familiar with now.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Dodgylegs on 22:17:11, 26/07/20
Looks fabulous, in the weather you're both having!
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Jac on 08:38:06, 27/07/20
Following you on the map - having walked many of the paths as day walks when staying with family in Kishorn. What fantastic weather you had.
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 15:49:54, 10/10/20
Day Ten
“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt. Nothing truly wild is unclean”  John Muir
So true, but all the more annoying that ‘progress’ had led to the dirt road along Abhainn Bruachaig to be splattered with small sharp stones to gain easier access to Scottish Power’s mini hydro-electric dams, causing me considerable paw pain, to say the least.  :-[
This frustratingly slowed our progress, after we had set out a tad later than usual for Ian to stock up on an extra gas canister from the local shop when it opened.
Ian was concerned that yesterday’s heat had led me to exhaustion, but I was fine and relieved when we turned off North, upwards to Heights of Kinlochewe. Calmness always comes over me when we head North.  :)
 
Good to see the planting of indigenous trees, though their growth matched our meandering pace as the track narrowed to a path to Lochan Fada.
With a long dry day forecast & panoramic views, we rested more often than usual to soak it all in, or maybe it was Ian carrying the extra food packages.  ;D
Big smiles all round. He wasn’t grumbling, neither was I, well not until he took his shoes off!


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Here we met ‘Beef Jerky Man’ aka Mark, who shared his ever so tasty beef jerky snacks with me – definitely one for future treks & runs. 
Yummy  O0

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‘Beef Jerky Man’ looked pretty tough and knowledgeable,
“Ian, we should hang with him?”
“Yeah, and your reason has nothing to do with his snacks?”   :D
 
Ian tried to compete & toughen up.  ;D

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We passed Mark and headed up pathless towards Loch Meallan an Fhudair, guided by the map… a worrying plan. Sheltered by Beinn Bheng, the breeze died, revealing a pocket of indescribably profound silence, freezing us as if playing musical chairs, eagerly waiting for the music to move you forward, whilst soaking up the natural abundant surroundings.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/50445478576_e005229b33_c.jpg) (http://)
 
After the climb, Ian nonchalantly descended the valley …. Until he noticed me hanging back, or rather, thankfully my reason for dropping behind, so Ian would see Mark heading 90 degree away from us …
Stubborn he maybe, but Ian knows not to plough on regardless. Swayed by Mark’s Northerly direction, we dipped down to cross the river, steeply coming up to meet a very faint path to Loch an Nid.
 
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50445258552_f95aa272e1_c.jpg) (http://)
 
We caught up with Mark, and together easily crossed the river to follow the trail on the Loch’s East side, marvelling at the huge slabs of cascading rocks, conjuring up images of snaking waterfalls after a deluge, though we had no regrets of no rain, enjoying the pleasant warmth of the early May evening as we approached Shenavall bothy, spectacularly enclosed by 5 Monros.


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Ian’s tent pitch was a bit of a ‘photo bomb’ for others but did give us the most glorious of views.  :)
“Am I bad, that I didn’t feel bad?”   :-\
 
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50445288557_be834c8ab5_c.jpg) (http://)

A balmy warm evening encouraged bothy Munro baggers and Cape Trail tent trekkers outside to share tales of wo and wonder, washed down with whiskey, dwarfed by our surroundings.

‘Space immeasurable, size an illusion, distance irrelevant’
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Jac on 16:17:38, 10/10/20
Aah! good to see you again ZenyIan O0

Day 11 please :)
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 16:47:54, 10/10/20
Wonderful stuff, Zen. Those quartzite (?) slabs on the eastern flank of Sgurr Ban really are remarkable.
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 18:09:17, 10/10/20
Day Eleven
‘Beef Jerky Man’ joined us for the hike up to Corrie Hallie, treats and directional knowhow – I was a very happy pup!  :smitten:
The path surprisingly often described as bleak and featureless was anything but with a rough snaking trail over moorland peppered with oddly shaped peaks.
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Mark, searching for more snacks ... please

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We descend to a road - not seen one of those for a while

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Cheeky sign - I wasn't going fast ..

Then a slow 5km climb, rewarded with a dip,

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Before descending we paused to gaze wondrously at our way ahead

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At Iverlael, we said our goodbye for now to Mark as he took the road option to Ullapool where he was meeting a friend to finish the trail with.
Hope his friend brings more beef jerky.   :angel: 

Just the two of us, we rested & ate by a river. It was 4pm, but still had a way to go . .

“The clearest way into the Universe is through a forest wilderness” John Muir

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50445389648_849e79eee8_c.jpg) (http://)

Ian got frustrated at the annoying, zig-zagging logging road through the pine forest planation, until he’d enough and spotted an overgrown trail between the trees and we happily plodded upwards until above the tree line to rest once more, when the trail ended & marvel at barrenness of it alll . .

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50445421843_1264765e9e_c.jpg) (http://)

 ‘Yomping’ – defined as walking through pathless long grassed moorland in Scottish Highlands – This was yomping at its best.
 Ian was revelling in the challenge to pick the best line contouring the hill – Meall Dubh, down into majestic Glen Douchary – uniquely stunning. Possibly my favourite.

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Campsite of your dreams
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Just marking my spot for later, hopefully.

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Splendid evening light seemed to last an eternity as we sat, legs dangling over the riverbank edge, enjoying our dinners, with the whole glen to ourselves. Stupendous!
 
Time stretches out enjoyment. It prolongs all that’s great in life.
Big skies, big hills, big views, big moments, creating big memories.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: pleb on 19:15:16, 10/10/20
Woof! Brilliant!  :)
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 19:36:54, 10/10/20
Glen Douchary looks wonderful.
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 20:16:36, 10/10/20
Day Twelve
Slept like a dream!    :smitten: 
Gauging the direction of River Douchary, with it splitting and fanning out, confused Ian somewhat, and we did a fair bit of river hopping back and forth. I wasn’t in much of a rush to leave the Glen, anyway.
Eventually, we followed the river as it carved out a delightful waterfall laden ravine, Glen Duchary just got more amazing  :) 

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50446770267_66a0c845eb_c.jpg) (http://)


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Loch an Daimh soon appeared, and we edge round the southern tip to join a track passing Knochdamph bothy, surprisingly furnished with beds upstairs, but no signs that anyone had stayed for a while.

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“Zen, about time you went back to school”
“What? You cannot teach an old dog new tricks!”   :knuppel2:
Didn’t stop Ian taking me back to the classroom, or rather the schoolhouse bothy, which was very clean & hospitable, but without a fireplace.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50446573136_355bcc05b2_c.jpg) (http://)

“Okay then Zen, what can you teach me?”
“Er, that ‘Man is only as cool as his dog!’, and I’m super cool, so keep bringing me along – I make you look real good!”   :coolsmiley:
“I’ll remind you of that next time you squat on someone’s lawn!”                               
I signed the chalkboard while Ian had a nosy around.  8) 

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We diverted off the 4x4 track up a lovely forest path alongside the River Einig to Oykel Bridge, to end a gentle day, rewarded with new packages & a stay in their ‘Bothy/Lodge’ attached to the Oykel Bridge Hotel – a quiet private room.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50446576736_491a53d70c_c.jpg) (http://)

Ian dined in the pub & chatted to anglers, moaning about the low river levels - music to our ears = easy river crossings.  :)

Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 21:43:10, 10/10/20
Thanks Richardh1905, Pleb, Dodgylegs & Jac  O0
Good to be back sharing an old trip, now the days are getting shorter ..
Zen  :)
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 22:09:28, 10/10/20
Day Thirteen
Top man, Ian!  O0  … Saved me some sausages & bacon from our first cooked breakfast of the ‘return’ trip.
A leisurely morning stroll along a well-defined path along the banks of the River Oykel, passing quaint fishing huts, picnic tables and ample opportunities for me to have a paddle. Delightful.
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Best photo of many attempts

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“Hey, Zen how about this for a new home for you?”

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50446956801_ec6ae8ace0_c.jpg) (http://)
I was not amused!  :tickedoff: [

After 5 or 6 km, for some unknown reason the Estate didn’t want us to continue along the river, and diverted us off with a rudimentary sign,

 (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50446260198_08cc6fea21_c.jpg) (http://)

 . . . onto a less pleasing route, with all the land stripped bare from felled trees for as far as the eye to see and then onto a thankfully deserted logging truck road
 
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Back on track, through the estate, towards Benmore Lodge, [/color]the spectacular peaks of Conival and Ben More loomed into view.
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Some flowers, which was quite rare on the trail

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“Hey, Zen this Cape Wrath Trail is becoming relatively comfortable” 
The moment the words left his lips, Ian regretted them. There was no way the Cape Wrath Gods would allow us to complete the Trail thinking it was ‘comfortable’ . . and sure enough the beautiful weather we had been enjoying started to turn …  ::)   
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50447185957_457b820624_c.jpg) (http://)


At river crossing, Allt Sail an Ruathair, Ian chatted and grabbed an elderly couple, the only people we met all day, to take a rare photo of us together.



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The main track headed towards Inchnadamph … civilisation, we were not seeking, so we headed off adventurously, on a remote path round the back of Ben More.

‘We must take adventures in order to know where we truly belong’

Looking back at the faint path, back passed Loch & peak - Sail an Ruathair -

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The trail ahead -
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“Ian, I spy a fab wild camping spot by the loch ”  (Loch Carn nan Conbhairean)   O0
The truth be known, I was knackered, and I could sense rain.  ;)
 
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Another one on my wish list aspirations ticked off – wild-camp by a loch, with the bonus of swirling rain & moody clouds with Eagle Rock Ben More Assyst behind – Ian ‘poled-out’ the tent door for maximum view whilst keeping the rain out as we cooked & ate.
I love the day after a new package – Ian’s keen to reduce the food load, so I get an enormous meal!  :2funny:
– I’ll sleep well, dreaming of more . . . more wild-camps, more views & more food  :smitten: 

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50447143177_cca38e7244_c.jpg) (http://)
ZZZZZZ   :smitten:
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Bigfoot_Mike on 06:39:19, 11/10/20
Great reports Zen! I was wondering how you managed to cope with spending so much time alone with your human. The sausages, bacon and sleeping bag explain everything. 🥓🥓🥩🥩🦴🦴🏕⛰🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🌧☀️❄️
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Ridge on 09:03:30, 11/10/20
Just catching up with the most recent instalments.
Great stuff Zen  O0
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Birdman on 11:49:04, 11/10/20
Great! Your pictures look so familiar!  (http://walkingforum.co.uk/Smileys/alive/afro.gif)


Your camp at River Douchary looks like about the same spot where I pitched my tent last year. It was lovely! Although I woke up with a dusting of snow on my tent (early spring).
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 17:43:27, 11/10/20
Day Fourteen
‘The deeper the solitude the less the sense of loneliness, and the nearer you are to friends”
And, indeed we were!


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I think you’ll agree, there’s something so special about waking up in the wilderness, but even more special, is Ian’s new super waterproof tent (aka space dome), the raindrops just run off. It’s completely dry to pack – no separating the inner & outer, easy to pack & easier to put up next time. Whoa! - A result, albeit an expensive one!
 
I could sense wildlife around and decided to explore, way off ‘path’, to Ian’s dismay  :P


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Ian enticed me back with my breakfast stop.  O0
In the next photo, I'm not sure if Ian is miffed at me or mystified by the way ahead, most likely just lost!   :-\

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I did my best ‘stand and point in the direction of movement’  ;)


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50452133942_081fa51ee5_c.jpg) (http://)
 
Turned out the movement was 3 ladies coming down from ascending Ben More – total respect as that would have been tough up there in these rain clouds.
 
We should have stayed behind & followed them as Ian made a few dodgy navigation decisions as we both got wet crossing the burn flowing out the Lochan then attempting to contour another loch (Gorm Loch Mor) high up, though it did give us lovely views, ..  of the ladies going the right way, way below.


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50452190497_fa5220811c_c.jpg) (http://)

The Loch, with its shifting light, atmospheric, hypnotic, such a dreamy sensation.


I succumbed to temptation and paddled.

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The ladies, that had passed us, due to Ian’s navigational error, took the path West, back to Inchnadamph.
 
Alone once more in the wilds, we headed north, pathless & getting tough – Ian dug deep in his bag for an another appropriate snack - Hard Bar

He gave me none, not that I need toughening up!  8)
I wondered if there’s a snack called ‘Right Path’ - I’d pay good money!  ;D
 
Credit where credit’s due, Ian stayed focused and we toughed it out through bogs and over a broad pass for what felt like more than 3kms before passing another loch.
 
I sprinted ahead when I spotted a fellow Trail hiker … and caught up with ‘Beef Jerky man, his friend and an ‘Aussie/German couple’, well, we could hardly miss them in their fluorescent pack covers.
Nice to have company.
Nicer to have treats!
 :smitten:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50452178082_b81e34d0a4_c.jpg) (http://)
 
Found this weird circular earth shape – anyone know what this is?


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5kms of easier tracks to Glencoul bothy – small clean bothy with two rooms, fire & dry wood.  :)
Just the six of us – perfect end to a bit of a wild wet wayward day in the wilderness.

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 (taken next morning – Gencoul bothy is the building behind)
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Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 21:23:53, 11/10/20
Day Fifteen
The 3 pairs of us departed Gencoul bothy at differing times.
After Ian’s navigation muck-ups yesterday, I took it on and guided us up and around Aird da Loch peninsula … the faint path soon disappeared.
“Disappeared? … you lost it, Zen”    :tickedoff:
So, I took Ian on my own scenic loch view route, until he got nervous about the edge.
Still we did get a great loch view with Glendu Bothy.

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My breakfast was served at the footbridge at the end of the loch.
We then popped into Glendu Bothy (furthest left building) – same layout as Glencoul, with 2 rooms, but not as clean –
before continuing on a 4x4 track along the loch edge and quickly passed the German/Aussie couple, to be alone on the trail ahead.

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Looking back
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From the loch, the trail winds upwards to Ben Dreavie, the only peak on the trail with fab 360° views, the Atlantic, Arkle, Quinag and dark mysterious Ben Stack to the North.

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View towards Kylesku

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passing Loch an Leathaid Bhuain


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Zen with looming Ben Stack

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On top of 'flat - 2 peaked' Ben Dreavie

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I think Ian revels in the challenge of navigating trackless terrain, especially with a change of direction.
With me, it fills me with in trepidation.   :(

From Ben Dreavie we have to go North, but North lies a steep drop, so Ian shared his plan . .
“Okay Zen, we hang a left here, wander down safely, maybe not quite all the way, for about 2km, then hang a right for a km or so, head between a couple of weird shaped lochs and find a path of sorts....Easy”
Scary navigation – Welcome to my world!
 
‘Do stuff that excites you, that scares you, the only things you’ll regret, are the things you never did!’
 
We peered over the crags to survey the scene, a landscape peppered with dozens upon dozens of lochs, and you know when we’re down below, we’ll have no idea which loch is which…
So, there was Ian, oblivious to the fact that lochs can change shape, scanning the shapes and trying to match them to the ones on his map… I know, scarier.
 
When Ian says “Te amo”, it’s endearing.
When he’s repeating it, like it’s the last time ever …. I get worried!  :o
 
We negotiated the tricky descent, slogged north-ish through bogs, dissected a couple of odd lochans and stumbled upon a path, the correct one as well – Miraculous.
Not sure who was more surprised, Ian or me.  :D
 
‘Life is full of challenges. Once you truly accept this, the challenge become easier’
 
Rain was on its way. I could smell it.
The undulating path was trouble-free and suddenly the perfect lochside wild camping spot presented itself, a bit below, off path, but worth the slippery way down.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50453440927_a63c595553_c.jpg) (http://)
Loch na Seilge
 
I crashed whilst Ian set up the tent, super-fast.
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“Great beach spot Ian, but not wanting to grumble, not quite the beach camp I was wishing for on my list”
“Don’t worry Zen, I’ve got that wish well covered”
“Ooh, can’t wait!”
 :smitten:
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 07:52:07, 12/10/20
Lovely stuff. Not far to go now!


I walked around Loch Glendhu and Loch Glencoul many years ago, we cut across the high land between the heads of the two lochs rather than try to follow the shore, and enjoyed a wild camp in Glencoul before returning to Kylesku via Eas a Chual Aluinn and the plateau above.
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Jac on 08:54:40, 12/10/20
Wonderful read

Do you really have your own, personal sleeping bag, Zen?
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: pleb on 09:03:49, 12/10/20
Zen you are such a poser!
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: BrionyB on 11:29:21, 12/10/20
Wonderful reports and photos as always - but I'm a bit worried about the rucksack apparently perched on the edge of a steep slope above a loch  :o  please no more 'cliff-hangers'!
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 20:19:23, 12/10/20
Zen you are such a poser!
"I know I am"  :coolsmiley: :smitten:
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 20:21:42, 12/10/20
Wonderful read

Do you really have your own, personal sleeping bag, Zen?
"Thanks.
No, I just steal Ian's.
He used to have one with a zip, which I could get inside, but replaced it without one so I just wrap myself in it now."
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 21:19:53, 12/10/20
Day Sixteen
The weather - misty, rainy & damp was the polar opposite of our mood – fresh, sunny & bright.
We climbed back to the path and ventured down to cross the road to Lochstack Lodge

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I tugged at Ian to take the stepping stones but he won the tug of war and we crossed the bridge. Boring!  :(
An easy eerily silent wander up a dirt track was abruptly ended when Ian signalled off, almost at 90° into the marshy, dew-dripping knee-high grass.
“Have we gone wrong, Ian . . again?”
“No, but keep your eyes out for a loch – when we hit it, we go North”
 
Surely we cannot fail to hit a loch…then again, we are talking about Ian here. I was nervous …experience tells me to be nervous.
Loch was huge. I wish he wouldn’t do that, it was unmissable.
The path North was not, so I took the lead. Healthier for my mental wellbeing, that way!

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We got excited about the reputedly hazardous river crossing ahead (Garbh Allt), as hadn’t had one for a while, alas it was disappointingly easy.
Says a lot about how far we’ve come from the beginning of the trail that we’re despondent and not relieved at a low-level river crossing.
Moreover, we were enjoying 5km of pleasant bog strolling in the drizzle all the way to the bridge at Rhinconich

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We sheltered outside Rhinconich Hotel. Beef jerky man and his friend caught us up for a chat, and continued on. Beef jerky or not, I was pleased we were staying here. The notice on the hotel entrance ‘Open at 3pm’ was a bit discerning as it was only 12.30pm. A few phone calls & knocks and they opened up for us. Double delight as we had packages of goodies waiting.
I’d missed & really needed an afternoon siesta, nearly as much as a shower for Ian. Relief all round.  :D
 
The hotel was busy, but I made myself comfy, squeezing into a corner, whilst Ian chatted to the owner. The hotel was one of three packages we were unable to pick up in 2018. He said he shared it out with the guests, who had a mass scramble to grab the freebies – some lucky mutt in the local police station had my fav trekking dog food and treats.
 :smitten:
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 22:42:20, 12/10/20
Day Seventeen
Yummy bacon & sausages for breakfast   :smitten:  – took my mind off the horrendous weather outside.
I could sense we were nearing the end, two maybe three days. Ian always plans a fabulous finish – think Europaweg (Chamonix to Zermatt), Cheviots (Pennine Way) & Seven Sisters (South Downs Way) – the excitement was bubbling!
Like the other amazing finales, each one involved hard graft - The Cape Wrath Trail wasn’t going to lay it on a plate.
Horizontal rain was hard. Cafés on route, emblazoned with signs ‘’No dogs inside’ was harder to take.
We plodded on to London Stores, a Cape Wrath Trail institution.
Ian escaped inside, having a sheltered laugh with the locals, leaving me outside, dripping, soaking, alone with the swirling rain for annoying company – I don’t think I’ve forgiven him to this day!
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Fortunately, the locals took pity on me, rewarding my resilience with a few cheesy treats, which eased the loneliness, if not the discomfort.
One whispered, profoundly to me, “The weather may be crap here, but you really can’t beat the hospitality.”   :)
So perfect considering our mishaps on the Trail.
 
Even though London Stores is crammed floor to ceiling with almost everything imaginable, to rub salt into my psychological wounds, Ian only bought chocolate.
“You’ve got loads of treats from the packages, Zen – stop looking hard done by” 
 
From the London Stores, you have a couple of options, head 50m back down the road and then off into rough, trackless wilderness for a tough going 11km with a bothy for shelter half way – sounded like the perfect adventure, so it was perplexing that Ian decided against it, continuing along the road to Kinlochbervie.
We found a dog friendly hotel bar, open – a thankful respite out of the elements, and my usual breakfast, but almost a catastrophe – an equipment failure.
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“Zen, your water bowl will have to double up as your food bowl”
“I can live with that”
 
We actually rested for nearly an hour. Ian had a huge pot of tea which resulted in him p*ss*ng more than the clouds over the next couple of hours.
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Scattered houses became sparser, until there were none and we left civilisation behind and ventured down a sodden, muddy path northward, undulating over peat moorland. It was good to be in the wilds once more.
“Hey Zen, this land is owned by The John Muir Trust – Have you got any great quotes?”
 
“In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks”  John Muir
 
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“Ian, that looks like a grand place to stay/camp, just the two of us?”
“Depends, it’s abandoned, but the ghost of a shipwrecked mariner knocks at the window on stormy nights. Fancy it?”
“No thanks”   :crazy2:    The night ahead looked anything but calm.
 
‘Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away’


Maybe it’s the endurance of the trail, the collision of highlands fresh rain with salty sea air, the Atlantic translucent crashing waves, hugged with, entrapped by towering surrounding crags and a fresh water lake, wild thick heavy weather-beaten dunes, the expanse of soft sand, the isolation, the sheer spelling binding enchanting beauty, or maybe it’s all of these – Sandwood Bay is incredibly mesmerising.
 :smitten:
(no apologises for the amount of photos)

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We stood awe struck, love at first sight.
 
"Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass but learning to dance in the rain"
 
We set off, jogging, side-stepping each other, swapping the lead, spurting down the grassy slopes, Zen four-pawed powering up the dunes, caressing the curves, kissing the tops, hearts pumping, in unison two buddies giggling on endorphins, rain showered, hot, sweating from sun trapped heat, bursting onto the empty beach. Euphorically loving it.
Ian dumped the backpack and we ran and ran, everywhere, anywhere, delirious to our heart’s content.

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If Ian had for one milli-second thought not to wild-camp in the dunes and continue to the bothy (2km away), one glance at the swollen river crossing extinguished it. Just as well, as we both probably smelt pretty foul!

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With white noise of nearby waves breaking and a new package of goodies, we had a luscious meal, sheltered amongst the dunes, with the tent door poled out giving unforgettable views and memories.
 
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We had an uncomfortable night as I got sick – bad river water I reckon – and I had to wake Ian a few times to take me out.
“Sorry, Ian”
“That’s okay Zen, every time I was able to re-experience the Sandwood Bay magic”  :smitten:
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Wild camping, on the beach, calming, soothing, so therapeutic.
So much more than a tick off my wish list.
 O0
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: pdstsp on 08:17:44, 13/10/20
Just caught up with your last few adventures Zen - wonderful stuff.  Glad you loved Sandwood, my Daisy and Penny had a fantastic time there a couple of weeks ago.  Looks like Ian has come good.
Title: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: IanyZen on 12:59:18, 17/10/20
Day Eighteen - Final Day
Ding-a-ling, ding-a-ling
The last day bell always fills me with mixed feelings – elation & melancholy. 
I don’t think I’m alone in this.
The rain had ceased, so it was an alfresco breakfast to beat all.
Now, for that turbulent river crossing…
Yes, secretly I was wishing for a swinging suspension bridge, but don't tell Ian.
Ian scouted the best route and opted for the shallowest, slowest current, but widest part.
I reluctantly followed behind. It was fresh, rocky and fast. When he’d reached half-way he glanced back, to see me disappointedly, shivering back on the beach.
“Zen, got cold feet?”
He definitely had, even more so as he had to come back for me. Now strapped to Ian we edged cautiously across, until after the midpoint when I made a dash for the other side, dragging Ian with me.

Wake up shake
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After yesterday’s arrival at Sandwood Bay, you’d be wrong in thinking the last day would be an anti-climax, as everything truly fabulous about the Cape Wrath Trail is encapsulated in this final day.
Virtually all is over beautiful pathless undulating moorland, littered with dark peat & bogs, wild Atlantic views, a tricky, potentially dangerous river crossing, an MOD firing zone and a bothy with a unique fascinating history.
The remoteness is intoxicating, intensified with the knowledge that very few folk venture this far north.
 
If you had no interest in visiting Strathchailleach bothy, then you could hug high above the Atlantic cliffs and head in a straight line North to Cape Wrath Lighthouse, though after such a sustained rain storm the river would be raging and impossible to cross at the point it descends in to the Atlantic. Best avoided after yesterday sustained deluge.
Ian wanted to see Strathchailleach bothy, anyway so we climbed over the ridge heading roughly North East, though I reckon Ian just headed up any which way, just to see what was over the other side.

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Once over the ridge, Sandwood Bay sadly disappeared from view and we slogged it out across the empty trackless moors.
I do not know how Ian did it, but we miraculously hit a fence, much taller than me with a style!
“I’ve no idea either, Zen, just lucky I guess”
This was wonderous trekking – definitely gave me a spring in my step.

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Strathchailleach bothy, with no road or trail access is as remote as they come. It was home to James McRory-Smith, a hermit for 40 years. It’s thankful to the Bothy Association that you can stay and make sense of his life in his atmospheric paintings adorning the walls.
The irony of it all lingered on me whilst I browsed, that in life he wished to be anonymous, yet in death he’s better known than most.
It would make for an eerie place to stay the night.
Some of James's finger painting:

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Ian dallied over where to cross the river, Strath Chaillach before deciding on pausing midway on an river island and then scrambling up the opposite bank.
Open country, meandering and freedom at it’s best, as we made a general aim for the saddle of the hills ahead.

“Hey, Zen how are we doing on your wish list?”
‘Wish list:
Long sun-drenched days
Freedom forests to run in
Fresh streams and rivers to quench thirst
Cooling snow for massages
Remote hut stays
Wild camps everywhere - hills, lochs, rivers, sandy beaches with ace views of course
My fav trekking food and treats
Fab surprise reward at end, and a ...
Hot b*tch to play with and fall in love with’
 
“Almost complete, reward at end & find a mate!”
“I know we’ve had some luck, but getting lucky, I reckon that’ll be tough.
I know you are not fussy, and swing both ways, but I don’t recall us meeting a single dog.”
 
“Oh, how about at the Lighthouse café?”
“Only cats"
“Ah, I don’t swing that far!”  :D
 
Soon after a bracing paddle across Kesgaig River we encounter the huge MOD fence, but no style, only barbed wire.
Beef Jerky Man had rung ahead a couple days ago to check there was no military action - confirmed with no red flag flying, though I had read that they sometimes forget to take them down.  :o
 
I got lifted over and dropped on the other side, not so very gracious, but effective. Ian squeezed through the barbed wire.
 
“Now Zen, if you see any odd shaped objects, don’t paw, lick or eat them. Got it!
 “Got it!”
For once I felt comfortable letting Ian lead the way, with me taking the same steps.
 
We contoured left and then right around the slopes of a few hills. Over the peat bogs, suddenly the peat bog gave way, and Ian tumbled down.  In a flash I’d pounced on him, wet nosed butted him with a saliva filled facial lick.  ;D
“Yuk! Zennn!”
“That’ll teach you, not to lose concentration!”
“Good to see you’re looking out for me Zen.”  O0
 
I could now see the sea on both sides, West and now East, as we headed North. The end was nigh.
Even Ian could hardly go wrong from here!
 
After a couple of kms we stumbled on a 4x4 track and even though I could sense enlightenment was just around the corner, we stopped for a small bite of lunch.
 
A moment for contemplation to let it all soak in - the experience of whole journey that had got us this far, before the elation of finishing.
 
“Ian, what will you do if the last mini-bus passes us now, knowing we haven’t made it or seen the lighthouse?”
“We let it go…and continue on and then walk to the Kearvaig bothy…10km away!”
Not sure if either of us really fancied another 10km!
 
'Naked I’ve walked, fur tingling with the breeze, paws scarred by jagged rocks, massaged by smooth pebbles, caressed by wild heather, exfoliated & cleansed in bogs. Soreness prevails, but without pain there is no feeling.'
 
We had joked why would you want to walk the Trail, North to South, with Fort William your final goal instead of Sandwood Bay & the Cape Wrath Lighthouse. Not much of an aim to keep you motivated, through the wind, rain & bogs.
Upon arriving at Cape Wrath, the bleakish place I’ve possibly ever visited, Fort William sounded attractive.
Cape Wrath’s ugliness just reminded us of how beautiful the whole Trail is, and all the motivation you’ll ever need.
The journey IS the destination!
 
“A difficult road, leads to a beautiful destination”
 
Saying that, the full Scottish breakfast at Ozone café is amazzzzzing!    A worthy treat for finishing  O0
 
First sight …Yes, I was first there!

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Would you Adam & Eve it….?   Zen found love …
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Wet, tired & pleased to have finished  :)
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Fortunately, James the mini-bus driver was doing a few extra runs, and we got a seat on the next one to the jetty to cross the Kyle of Durness to Keodale, where a kind fellow passenger dropped Ian and I off in Durness. Thanks  O0

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Cool - a ferry to start and one to finish

We rested in a delightful B&B and celebrated in the local.
 
The next day Ian surprised me by taking me across the top of Scotland to Dunnet Head, the most northerly point of mainland Scotland, which was fitting as I’ve also been to Land’s End.
 
“From this angle I can see Old Man of Hoy, the whole of Scotland & England all the way to our flat in Brighton!”
Final pose  :coolsmiley:


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Zen at Dunnet Head

“So Zen, which part was your favourite? – the first part: drizzle, atmospheric moorlands and lochs, isolation, troublesome river crossings, falls & heartbreak, or the second part: blissful sun drenched long days, bright moorlands and expansive glens, stupendous wild camps, trekking friends & spicy beef jerky?”
“A tough one, but if I had to decide, the first part …. the true challenging Highlands!”
 
“So much of who we are, is where we have been & what we’ve experienced!”
 
"Thanks Ian for bringing me along."  :angel:
"Couldn't have done it without you!"  :smitten:

I hope you have enjoyed my trip report.
 Zen  :)
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: richardh1905 on 13:05:12, 17/10/20
Certainly did enjoy your trip reports, Zen. Thank you for posting.  O0
Title: Re: Mad Dog and an Englishman Go Wild – Cape Wrath Trail
Post by: Dodgylegs on 13:10:05, 17/10/20
Fantastic journey, very dog...ged to finish!  O0