TR - Ben More from Glen Dochart - the steepest mile?Trying to salvage something of the summer holidays, we booked a small hut on the Pine Trees campsite at Tyndrum (pronounced Tyne-drum), a 5 hour drive up from South Cumbria (including a stop for the dog).
'Skye' hikers hut - pretty basic, but clean, and it had a toilet! Red squirrels were our neighbours.We had our eyes on Ben Cruachan at this stage, but an evening glimpse of Ben More down the valley changed our minds.
Ben More, Stob Binnein, Stob Garbh, Cruach Ardrain in the evening sunlight - gorgeous!17th August 2020A few minutes drive back down the glen and through Crianlarich bought us to the foot on Ben More, where we parked by the side of the road just past Benmore Farm (ample parking).
Viewranger route HEREWe hopped over a handy stile just east of the farm, and quickly joined a farm track that zig-zagged up the hillside, a relatively gentle start before the real work began. I was taking my time with my troublesome knee well strapped up, and was using both walking poles for once. I must admit that initially I had my doubts about being able to complete this walk, but all went well. The view of Ben More was much foreshortened, and did little to suggest how vast the slope ahead is, a 1000m climb up from Glen Dochart.
At a junction in the farm track, the stone staircase began, gently at first, but quickly steepening. I normally don't like these stone staircases, but this one was well constructed, and absolutely necessary given the boggy nature of the ground.
The start of the stone staircase, the climb ahead much foreshortenedUp and up we went, me trailing further and further behind, my wife and son having to wait a few times for me to catch up. But the views unfolding behind us were fantastic, despite the weather not being perfect.
On and on we climbed, the stone steps seemed to go on forever. I was the 'Lanterne Rouge' today!Looking back towards Crianlarich. Ben Lui is the prominent peak to the left - maybe some other time.We passed a work party constructing the path around half way up - I complimented them on their work.
The stone staircase eventually ran out, and the rough path picked its way up the slopes, with the occasional rocky section. The ground was drier now, though, and the going improved. The route took us along the north eastern edge of a shallow corrie above some steep ground - a dangerous place to be in winter conditions, apparently.
Near the top now - Loch Tay in sight beyond the North East ridge. The slopes to the left of the ridge looked safe enough to descend.There was a final steepening of the slope as the path wound its way between some small crags, but above, the gradient started to ease. After another break, we climbed the final slopes, the summit cairn and trig point appearing quite suddenly. The top at last!
The summit at last, with Stob Binnein beyondMountaineering dog - Tess summits first!We lingered on the summit for a while, admiring the views all around from such a lofty viewpoint, at 1174m, the highest mountain for miles around. The east wind was keen so we found a sheltered spot looking westwards for our lunch.
We admired the rugged mountains to the west whilst taking lunchStob Binnein to the south - a hill for another dayStob Binnein looked tempting to the south, but we decided that it was a peak for another day. Rather than plod back down the stone staircase, we descended down the broad north east ridge for a while, easy going until the faint path took a sharp turn to the left to work its way around some small crags that straddle the ridge. Before the ridge steepened again, we took to the steep grassy slopes on its northern flank - I had identified this as a safe way down on our ascent.
Looking back up the North East ridge, just before we plunged down the endless grassy slopes to the northAnd so they proved to be, although the steep grass seemed to go on forever! I took the lead, picking what I thought was the easiest ground. As we descended, the flowers started to appear - scabious, hawkweed, harebells - and my wife even spotted some Grass of Parnassus.
After crossing a stream we eventually reached the head of a bulldozed track, built as part of a micro hydro electric scheme (I spotted three small dams across the nearby burns). This track took us westwards back down to the junction at the start of the stone staircase, time to relax, reminisce and plan now that the going was easier. Only 5 miles covered on the map, but it felt like more!
18th August 2020We decided to have a rest day, a few miles along the West Highland Way followed by a drive and a short walk out to Kilchurn Castle, at the head of Loch Awe.
The Loch of the Lost Sword on the West Highland Way - Robert the Bruce's sword, reputedly!Tess playing hide and seek in the heather - whatever she was seeking luckily lived to tell the tale!This lovely section of the West Highland Way passes through the Tyndrum Community WoodlandThe railway bridge crossing the River Orchy at the head of Loch Awe, the eastern slopes of Ben Cruachan beyondLooking up Glen Strae from near Kilchurn CastleKilchurn Castle at the head of Loch AweLoch AweDriftwood on the beach at Loch Awe, the clouds just skimming the top of Beinn Eunaich beyond (989m)In the afternoon we tried our hand at gold panning. I had low expectations, which is just as well, as we found absolutely nothing, but the river by the campsite is a lovely place to relax and while away an hour or two.
Day 3 - Stob a Choire Odhair, to follow......