Author Topic: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!  (Read 13169 times)

WhitstableDave

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #15 on: 16:12:45, 05/06/20 »
Nice pics again.  It's amazing getting the beaches to yourself like that, isn't it.
We think the Western Isles have the best beaches in the world and having them all to ourselves makes them even better!  8)
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WhitstableDave

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #16 on: 15:28:20, 07/06/20 »
Day 8 of my treadmill trek from toe to top of the Outer Hebrides took me from Sollas to Berneray, a sizeable island at the very top of the Uists that's connected to North Uist by a long causeway.

When we were staying on South Uist in August 2017, our first walk was a complete lap of Berneray. Perfect, stunning, white sandy beaches and sand dunes make up about half of the island's coastline, as can probably be seen on the satellite map...



The weather wasn't all that good, but it really didn't matter much. We began our walk at the southern tip of Berneray and went anti-clockwise around the island.



The west side is very flat and sandy, while the east has a few hills - the highest of which is Beinn Shleibhe (93m) in the far north-east:



We descended the hill to the beach, which we walked along for mile after mile:



I went up onto the dunes to take this photos of my wife on the beach. I might have the wrong beach, but I think photos of this one were once used to promote a tropical location in an advertising campaign.  :)



Towards the end of our walk, we visited the Chair Stone, which stands at a site where judgments and executions may have taken place...



We made a second visit to Berneray that week when we drove to get a ferry across to Leverburgh on the Isle of Harris. On that occasion in 2017, we continued up to Lewis for the second week of our holiday, but last summer we stayed in a cottage only a mile east of Leverburgh. I'll pay a visit there on my next treadmill trek of reminiscing and post some photos of a couple of wonderful walks we did near Rodel.  :)
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Mel

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #17 on: 20:16:15, 08/06/20 »
That beach in the second to last pic looks wonderful!

WhitstableDave

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #18 on: 22:16:56, 08/06/20 »
That beach in the second to last pic looks wonderful!

From the Daily Mail, 2009:  ::)

The white sands and gently lapping turquoise sea make Thailand's Kai Bae Beach look like heaven on earth.

There is just one problem. The picture is actually of a beach on beautiful but chilly Berneray island in Scotland's Outer Hebrides.

The give-away is the picturesque range of the Harris Hills in the background of the promotional picture.


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WhitstableDave

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #19 on: 14:27:26, 09/06/20 »
Day 9 of my treadmill trek from bottom to top of the Outer Hebrides saw me crossing from Berneray, an island north of North Uist, to Leverburgh at the southern end of the Isle of Harris.

We stayed for a week on Harris only last summer and we'd also done a couple of walks there two years before when we were based on Lewis, so it's the part of the Outer Hebrides that we know best.



The cottage we stayed in last year is just over a mile south-east of Leverburgh, so I just had to head that way. The cottage is called Blacksheep House and it's absolutely fabulous - a renovated and extended Blackhouse situated right on the edge of a tidal loch. The roof is grass, so the cottage is quite well camouflaged! (It's in the left of the photo.)



The view from the lounge in the evening as the tide is starting to come in:



We did two walks directly from the cottage. On the first, we visited St Clement's Church at Roghadal - a restored castle-like building containing several MacLeod tombs. Then we headed up the road where the VW van is going...



...until we found a suitable place to start the climb up Beinn Na h'Aire, a biggish hill. Here, we're part way up and there are midges around. We came prepared!  :)



Nearing the summit, it was windy and cloudy and starting to rain. We sat out the rain then descended to Loch Thorsagearraidh which we skirted on our way back.



Our second walk straight from the cottage was to Renish Point, a peninsula at the extreme southern tip of Harris. It's not far from the cottage so we made a walk of it by going to Leverburgh first, and then Rodel. The peninsula was very exposed, it was very windy and it rained quite heavily. And the ground was very boggy too. Great fun!  :) 



Note: My wife is wearing her Salomon boots which, of course, leak badly. She copes with soggy conditions by wearing Bridgedale waterproof socks, which work perfectly!  O0

Next stop... the Coffin Road!
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WhitstableDave

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #20 on: 14:09:29, 11/06/20 »
Day 10 of my treadmill trek through the Outer Hebrides took me from the east coast of Harris to the west coast.

At roughly the 1 mile mark on the map, I passed the spot where my wife and I have parked to start two walks - or rather to do the same walk in opposite directions. In 2017, we followed a track called the Coffin Road from the east coast to the west coast and returned along another track to the north. Last summer, we did almost exactly the same route but anticlockwise. On the map, the Coffin Road takes a more-or-less direct line between the 1 and 7 mile markers.



The track is so-named because the terrain on the east side of the island is extremely rocky and not suitable for graves, so coffins were carried across to the west side where the ground is less rocky.

Last summer, we did another walk near today's route, which was mostly on the incredible sandy beaches between Seilebost and Luskentyre. But first though...

...The Coffin Road: In 2017, the weather was sunny and clear. Last year, it wasn't, so I'll use that walk for the more atmospheric (and probably more typical) photos:

The rain, a great many lochs and lochans, soggy ground and no wind meant midges - millions of them! But the walk was still fantastic and took us through the lunar landscape that is so typical of Harris.



My wife in her anti-midge net:



One of hundreds of streams we passed:



Me on a soggy, rocky Harris!




That walk came very close to the walk we did between Seilebost and Luskentyre last summer:

Although the forecast was for rain, it was warm and sunny all day. Perfect for a stroll along miles of beaches!  :)

We didn't bother with a planned route because where we could go depended greatly on the tide. The tide was quite high which meant that less of the vast expanse of sand was visible than it might have been, but the beaches were still unbelievably amazing!

Here we're about to set off along the first beach:



Expecting rain, my wife wore her new waterproof socks - and tested them with a paddle:



We headed inland a little way and up a small hill to visit a standing stone:



The campsite at Seilebost:



Despite the highish tide, we were able to get a long way out into the bay:



We mostly followed the road back to the car and the views were unbelievable. If there's a more incredible place in the British Isles than Seilebost, we've not seen it yet!





Last summer, we also did a walk on the hills near Luskentyre that can be seen in the distance, but I'll save that for my next update.  :)
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Mel

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #21 on: 13:09:20, 12/06/20 »
Love the sunset from the cottage view and, ohhhh, those beaches  :smitten:


A midge net would have to be part of my essential kit too next time I'm up Scotland way  :-[   'orrible bluddi bitey things  >:(

WhitstableDave

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #22 on: 16:38:55, 12/06/20 »
Love the sunset from the cottage view and, ohhhh, those beaches  :smitten:

A midge net would have to be part of my essential kit too next time I'm up Scotland way  :-[   'orrible bluddi bitey things  >:(

More beautiful beaches again today Mel. (Actually, they're the same beaches but from the other side of the bay!)  8)

I went for an outdoor walk this morning to Canterbury to collect my car from the garage. It was 7 miles, so I thought I'd do a shortish treadmill trek this afternoon because I'm really enjoying revisiting the Outer Hebrides, and Harris in particular.  :) 

Yesterday, instead of heading north along the main road to Tarbert, I went to Seilebost in the west and beyond because we did a couple of walks around there. We also did a walk across the hills on the north side of Luskentyre Beach, so today I did a virtual walk from there back to where I turned off yesterday.



The beaches in the Outer Hebrides have to be the best in the world and they're usually deserted. One day, we took a chance on the weather by walking a moderate ridge overlooking Losgaintir Sands where the views are said to be unbelievable. The plan was to take in the views and return along the sands, making a 9 mile loop.

Heading up to the start of the ridge... so far, so good:



And then we walked along the ridge to the highest point, Beinn Dhubh, by way of Beinn Losgaintir, and saw nothing but cloud and the ground around us the entire way. Three miles of wind, rain and cloud - oh well, never mind! We sheltered for a short while before descending to get some actual views lower down:



It's always quite amazing when it happens... one minute you can't see anything and then there it is. Sadly, the photo doesn't do the scene justice:



We found our way around the headland (visible in the previous photo) to the beach and walked along the vast white sands for a couple of miles before returning along a road to the car - fantastic!



Next time I'll start from where I finished today and head north to Tarbert. We visited Scalpay in 2017, so I'll pop down for a visit...
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Bigfoot_Mike

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #23 on: 22:11:41, 12/06/20 »
The beaches in northern Scotland are pretty special, whether on islands or not. They have the advantage of the complete lack of deckchairs and ice cream sellers and very few people. Some of the mainland beaches give the island ones a run for their money. There are some pretty special beaches in other parts of the world too and the weather can be a lot better than Scotland’s.

Bigfoot_Mike

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #24 on: 22:15:22, 12/06/20 »
Love the sunset from the cottage view and, ohhhh, those beaches  :smitten:


A midge net would have to be part of my essential kit too next time I'm up Scotland way  :-[   'orrible bluddi bitey things  >:(
It is easy to avoid midges in Scotland, Mel.


1. Wait for a day with strong sunshine. They don’t like this. 4 days per year.
2. Wait for a windy day. They can’t fly in more than a light breeze. 360 days per year in the Western Isles.
3. Stay well east of the Cairngorms. We don’t get the biting midges here and we still have some wonderful beaches (and less rain).

Islandplodder

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #25 on: 22:26:19, 12/06/20 »
One of those calm days today, midges and clegs appeared from nowhere half way through the gin and tonic and drove us inside. Watching the spectacular sunset through the window!

WhitstableDave

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #26 on: 23:49:18, 12/06/20 »
The beaches in northern Scotland are pretty special, whether on islands or not. They have the advantage of the complete lack of deckchairs and ice cream sellers and very few people. Some of the mainland beaches give the island ones a run for their money. There are some pretty special beaches in other parts of the world too and the weather can be a lot better than Scotland’s.

Until about 4 years ago, our main leisure activity was cruising. We've seen fantastic beaches all over the world: the Pacific, the Indian ocean, the Caribbean, Australia, and so on. I love snorkelling while my wife prefers sunbathing, and Scotland isn't great for those, but for sheer beauty, peace and quiet - and mountainous backdrops - I think the beaches we've seen in the Outer Hebrides are the best anywhere.

(We still do one cruise a year though - a week each winter in the Caribbean!  8) )
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WhitstableDave

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #27 on: 17:19:01, 13/06/20 »
Day 11 of my treadmill trek from toe to tip of the Outer Hebrides took me to Tarbert on the Isle of Harris. I'd planned to get to Scalpay today, but a real-life walk this morning meant that 5 miles would be plenty this afternoon!



We've driven through Tarbert lots of times and stopped occasionally for coffees and to do a bit of shopping. My wife loves Tarbert because, unsurprisingly, it's a very good place to find Harris Tweed and, in particular, Harris Tweed handbags. Here are a couple of photos from last summer...  :)





I've just noticed Urgha on the map to the east of Tarbert. We began a fantastic walk from there last year, so I'll include a summary here (borrowing from a previous report)...

This was very much a walk of three thirds with the first section being breathtakingly dramatic and remote, followed by an easy middle section towards Maraig, and a final section that included walking alongside a long loch.

On the way to Rhenigidale there's an extremely steep descent down a zig-zag path. I'd read beforehand that some find it okay while others find it very scary, and my wife really struggled with it. It didn't help that it was raining and the surface underfoot was quite slippery. Here we're just starting down:



And here we're on the other side of Gleann Trolamaraig looking back, with a small bit of the zig-zag path to the top-left. Coming down is always harder than going up!:



Just before Rhenigidale we passed through the ruins of a former settlement:



Midges were far more in evidence this year than previously!



Next stop - Scalpay and possibly the wettest walk we've ever done.  :)
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Islandplodder

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #28 on: 22:18:03, 13/06/20 »
I remember finding that path to Rhenigadale a bit challenging.  Apparently the postman walked it regularly - often after a day in the pub!

WhitstableDave

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Re: Walking the Outer Hebrides end-to-end - virtually!
« Reply #29 on: 12:12:06, 15/06/20 »
I remember finding that path to Rhenigadale a bit challenging.  Apparently the postman walked it regularly - often after a day in the pub!
If we're ever near there again (and I really hope we will be), I'd love to do the walk in the opposite direction and climb the zig-zag path. As we were going down we passed a young woman with a huge rucksack going up at a fairly rapid pace - I was well impressed!
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