Author Topic: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.  (Read 21206 times)

joester

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 Part One:
On Saturday 2nd July a group of Walking Forum members succeeded in an attempt at the Welsh 15 Peaks Challenge walk.
The team consisted of Radder, Little Bird, Barlos, Kiowan, Nvl35, Peakbagger and myself.
Abs and Carolina2k9 made up the much needed and appreciated Support Crew.
 
This was a charitable effort, we will have raised well over £900 for Mountain Rescue by the time all the funds have been collected in.
 
For those of you who don’t know the essence of the Challenge, I’ll begin with some cold facts and figures;
 
The 15 Peaks Challenge requires that all the 3000ft+ mountains in Wales are summited in one day, completely on foot (I.e. there’s no driving between mountains).
There’s no set route to bag all the peaks, but there are a few well-established ways of tackling the challenge.
The peaks are (in the order we did them):
 
Snowdon Section:
1) Crib Goch, 923m (3028 ft)
2) Garnedd Ugain, 1065m (3494 ft)
3) Snowdon, 1085m (3559 ft)
 
Glyderau Section:
4) Elidir Fawr, 924m (3031 ft)
5) Y Garn, 947m (3106 ft)
6) Glyder Fawr, 1001m (3284 ft)
7) Glyder Fach, 994m (3261 ft)
8.) Tryfan, 915m (3001 ft)
 
Carneddau Section:
9) Pen y Ole Wen, 978m (3208ft)
10) Carnedd Daffyd, 1044m (3425ft)
11) Yr Elen, 962m (3156 ft)
12) Carnedd Llewelyn, 1064m (3490 ft)
13) Foel Grach, 977m (3205 ft)
14) Carnedd Gwenllian (Uchaf), 926m (3038 ft)
15) Foel Fras, 942m (3090 ft)
 
Our Start: Pen y Pass, 3:45am
Our Finish: Bwlch y Ddeufaen (SH 720 715, nr. Llanbedr y cennin), 10:15pm
Our time between 1st and last peaks: 15Hrs 50 mins
Our total time: 18Hrs 30 mins
Total Distance Walked: 30.5 miles
Total Ascent: 4023m (13,200ft)
 
Ok, sorry, please don’t fall asleep, here we go....
 
Confession time, yours truly nearly didn’t make it on this one....
 
Don’t get me wrong, the walk was a mere stroll, it was more to do with the fact that I got trapped in my bedroom at the hostel the night before!
 
The latch had given up inside the door, I was yanking the handle as hard as I could, but nothing was happening (don’t you just hate it when that happens?). The commotion bought the whole household to the landing, someone sourced a screwdriver and Radder whooped the knob off (stop sniggering), but to no avail. Fortunately I had my rucksack in with me, in which I keep a pocket knife, so I was able to jimmy the latch back and make my escape, but everyone on the landing was treated to the sight of me in just my pants. I’d only wanted a wee, but I suppose it was better than finding out I was trapped later on when it was time to leave for the challenge.
Things could only get better.
 
I suppose we all got off to sleep about 11:30 to the sound of my dad telling his granddaughters a bedtime story in the next room.
We were to enjoy a blissful 3 hours before the alarms went off at 2:30am and it was time to get ready for our big day!
 
30 minutes to get out the hostel, 30 minutes to drive round to Pen y Grwyd to meet Peakbagger and Caroline2k9, and a short while to transfer their stuff into the mighty Alhambra and get up to Pen y Pass for 3:45am to meet Little Bird, who soon came tearing into the car park in characteristic ‘Carlos Sainz in a Yaris’ fashion.
As it was, it was like a well-oiled machine, and we actually managed to hit the hill at about 3:45am, but not before Radder had befuddled some poor bystanding girl into trying to take a group photo with a camera that steadfastly refused to activate its flash.
 
I had better luck with Abs’ little Lumix:
 
   It looks really dark there, but that’s just the flash, and actually there was plenty of pre-dawn light to see by as we made our way up the Pyg Track.
We could see the dark bulk of Crib Goch rising above us, and torchlight moving about on the mountain’s flank giving away the presence of other nutters, I mean, 15 Peakers.
It’s a peculiar crowd to be found on the Snowdon massif in the wee hours. There were more than a few groups coming off the mountain already, we met 5 Peaks Challengers (doing Slieve Donard, Carrauntoohil, Ben Nevis, Snowdon and Scafell Pike) and other folk carrying camping gear who had bivvied on Snowdon to start their 15 Peaks Challenge that way.
 
I knew sunrise, at least in Manchester, was at 4:45am. I had an idea that we would be well up the flank of Crib Goch by then to receive the first rays of the new day, so we paused only briefly at Bwlch y Moch before starting the scramble.
 
   As it turned out, we timed it far better than that...
 
We arrived at the start of the ridgeline just before 5am. The light to the east was rather nice, bands of pastel pinks and oranges striating the sky above Bewts y Coed and the Glyderau. There was also a bit of a cloud inversion going on.
 
We all took some photos, and, assuming that was that and the dawn sun was sitting behind all that cloud somewhere, most of us started heading off across the ridge eager to get on with the Challenge. A bit hasty, it turned out – I was called back by an urgent shout from Radder – now the sun was making its true appearance, rising through all that cloud - and it was absolutely spellbinding.
 
 

   It was an absolute privilege witness that, what a start to our day! The light on Snowdon and the Crib Goch ridge was like balm for the soul, it seemed to soothe away any concerns about the challenge to come, and even the precipices either side of us. There were even very few squeals from Little Bird, who is normally quite vocal when negotiating Crib Goch. I can’t really remember posing for the group photo on Crib Goch’s summit, and the crossing seemed to be over in just a few minutes. :

   
 

 

   Our little band were in a world of our own as we scrambled over the Pinnacles and up Garnedd Ugain. There were others making their way across the ridge behind us, but for just that while we seemed isolated in our own little land of orange light and rock. The calm continued as we stopped for a group shot on Garnedd Ugain.
 
 

   The vestiges of dawn were disappearing and we dropped down onto the already-busy Llanberis path to join plenty of others making their way to the summit of Snowdon – No.3!
 
We managed a fairly quiet summit for a group photo.
 
   There was also chance for a photo of ‘Team Regatta’ who were wearing and trialling gear donated by Regatta. It’s actually very good stuff, especially the trousers which I kept on all day 'cos they were so comfortable, even though I had two other choices of trousers waiting for me at the stop-offs.
 
   Most of the ‘plenty of others’ mentioned previously turned out to be Welsh 3-Peakers (Snowdon, Cadair Idris and Pen y Fan). There were plenty of trainers, bermuda shorts and hoodies in evidence, it felt good during the inevitable exchange of agendas to explain that we had rather more summits on our list!
 
We’ve got the descent to Nant Peris down to a ‘t’.
 
Instructions:
Walk down the Llanberis path, veer off behind Clogwyn Station, follow the railway track down through ‘Rocky Valley’ and you will see a fence on your left bordering the steep ground that drops to Nant Peris. Follow this fence until it veers right, and there lies a little stile. The stile marks the start of a faint path down to Gwastadnant that it quite steep but not punishingly so. It ends at the bank of the Afon Nant Peris very close to the footbridge at SH 608 579. Job’s a good ‘un.
 
The downside is that you get a full-on view of the next ascent, the less-than-delightful slog up the huge flank of Elidir Fawr.
 
   From the high ground on the descent I could see a blue people carrier in the Nant Peris Park and Ride with its boot open. I had a phone signal, so I rang Abs who confirmed that it was indeed her and Caroline, and yes, she was going to bloomin’ well get the kettle on.
The sun was ever strengthening, and striking the outcrops of the Glyders to cast long, sharp shadows into the Llanberis Pass. I smiled to myself at our good fortune.
 
   The ladies had got everything together on a picnic table at the Park and Ride. We shared the table with another group of 15 Peakers who were being catered-for there too, their Support guy had a stove on the go, and the omnivores amongst us eyed the sizzling bacon thereon with envy. We made do with spicy potato and leek soup which I had rustled up (not chicken [censored]* and engine oil, as some of you were led to believe). This was a slightly odd but welcome breakfast with a cup of fresh, strong tea.
 
   I had to whip my cherry and almond slice away from Peak bagger (who likes to have other people’s cake, and eat it) and there was a bit of midge activity, but the rest stop was otherwise very slick.
It nearly had us ready for Elidir Fawr….
solvitur ambulando

joester

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #1 on: 21:56:32, 05/07/11 »
  
Part Two:
 
Some of you might know the ascent from Nant Peris to the summit of Elidir Fawr. It’s the worst bit of the 15 Peaks route, I don’t think there’s much argument about that.
 
It’s a wearisome and seemingly-interminable slog up an ill-made boggy path finishing with scree-laden switchbacks and a few boulders. There seems to be no respite.
 
The sun gleefully beamed down upon us, and the sweat started pouring.
Nant Peris is low and Elidir Fawr is high, there is over 800m of climbing to do from the roadside. The miners have done their best to take half the mountain away, someone suggested they should have taken it off the top and saved us all the bother.
 
I’ve said before that the magnificent views over to the Snowdon massif are the one saving grace of this ascent, but they can equally be enjoyed from the summit, and so I resolved to get it over and done with, to ascend without stopping, head down and plod.
 
(plod, plod, plod…..etc times lots).
 
Your head pops out above the summit line like coming up for air (’cos you are), and there is Anglesea for you as a reward, spread out like a patchwork quilt with all the little villages as plates of morsels. It was a day of superb clarity, and Holyhead mountain could be seen clearly, as well as large ships leaving the docks there.
 
More summit photos. Radder’s great at collaring people for a photo, we let him do it all day, and I think he managed it at all of the 15 peaks!
 
   The descent of Elidir Fawr is much nicer, enjoying the little path down the east ridge. It’s quite a drop though, and it all has to be made up very soon in ascending Y Garn (which is also a bit of a stinker).
 
   We’d got used to including Foel Goch on our training walks, so it was really nice to be skirting under it on the way to Peak bagger’s ‘Gormless One’.
Y Garn means ‘an eminence’ (at least according to Poucher), so if even it’s very name relegates it to a sticky-out-lump, I think Peakbagger can be forgiven for his nickname for the hill, but I think both titles must come from the boring southern prospect of the mountain, because it’s a bit more dramatic from the north, and certainly much steeper!
Number 5, and 10 to go.
 
Glyder Fawr and Fach drew the eye, and we all knew about that scree slope up from Llyn y Cwn.
 
 

   Everyone was going well as we got onto the summit of Glyder Fawr and the rocky plateau across to Castell y Gwynt and Glyder Fach.
Y’all know this bit very well, I’m sure, so I’ll shut up for a bit and show you some photos….
  Glyder Fawr:

 
Glyder Fawr Summit:
 

 
Glyder Fach summit hands up:
 

 
Glyder Fach summit boulder:
 

 
Cantilever:
 

   To me, spirits seemed high at this point, I was certainly pleased at how well I was going.
The Bristly Screes had seemed quite a grim experience a fortnight before, but today they seemed to be dispensed with quite easily, and we hardly paused at Bwlch Tryfan before hitting the scrambly ascent up Tryfan’s short, sharp south ridge.
 
   The scramble kept us hot and busy, and it was hot and busy on Tryfan’s summit too, like a town centre on a summer Saturday (I preferred visiting it in the evening).
 
   It took a while even to get a look-in to toddle up and touch the summit stones of Adam and Eve, it was so busy with people becoming ‘Freemen of Tryfan’. Fair play to them with such a big audience. I find I am perhaps uncharacteristically squeamish of this feat, I couldn’t bear to look as various unlikely summiteers took their turn.
We had our own summit photo taken with our backs in the opposite (more photogenic) direction. Radder picked perhaps the country’s most inept professional photographer, but he did manage to muster this shot whilst fumbling with the settings on Radders’s camera and telling him he would need to ‘sort it out with photoshop afterwards’: Tryfan Summit:
 
 
 
We set off back the way we had come, but bearing slightly right in an effort to pick up the fairly gentle path of soft scree down to Llyn Bochlwyd, which we had found so favourable 2 weeks before.
Unfortunately, my knee didn’t find it so favourable today, and I had to have a stop to get busy with the Voltarol. I think everyone else welcomed a bit of a stop too.
 
   For me, the little drop from ‘Australia Lake’ to Llyn Ogwen was quite agonising, and also rather slow. All I could think about was Ibuprofen and immersing my swollen joints in the cool waters of Llyn Ogwen.
Looking across at Pen y Ole Wen, I began to have doubts as to whether I would be finishing this walk.
It was torture to see Peakbagger and Radder getting there well before.
 
   Everyone had a good old rest at Llyn Ogwen, and the girls did us proud again. I fulfilled my ambitions for recuperation and then donned my ‘Full Monty’ knee brace. It does the job, but does like to nibble away at the back of my leg as payment for allowing me to continue.
It turned out I wasn’t the only person who was struggling a bit, Nvl35 (Nigel) was clearly rather fatigued, obviously rather behind in the hydration stakes (it was bloomin’ sunny).
 
We all took our time at Llyn Ogwen, Nige had plenty of water and snacks, and eventually everyone was ready to continue and tackle the last big pull of the day up to Pen y Ole Wen.
 
 
....
solvitur ambulando

susiej

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #2 on: 22:02:21, 05/07/11 »
I am truly very very very impressed  O0
take it easy...but take it


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joester

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #3 on: 22:06:36, 05/07/11 »
 
Part Three:
 
Llyn Ogwen is much higher than Nant Peris, but there is still 670 metres of climbing to do, including some scrambling, but the ascent is pleasant, meandering up around the little stream called Afon Lloer, and the subsequent scrambling is of good quality. You are also treated to that classic view across to Tryfan.
 
  However, despite these perks, Nige wasn’t coping. On a hot day in the hills it is very difficult to catch up on hydration once you allow your body to slip behind. He bullied himself up to Ffynnon Lloer, but confessed he’d been bullying himself along for a good while (stubborn [censored]!). With great regret, he decided to turn back, but it was the right thing to do on this day. I had a nasty taste in my mouth as I shook his hand and sped off up the scrambly bit to catch up with the others.
Pen y Ole Wen hurt everybody.
 
  Radder still had the energy to bully someone into taking a photo of us, but everyone took some getting up to actually pose for it.
 
  It’s a bloomin’ good job that all the serious ascents were out of the way at this point. My quads had been burning and cramping to hell up Pen y Ole Wen. We were all glad of the gentle descent off the mountain, and the long shallow pull up to Carnedd Dafydd was boring, but also quite welcome, I don’t recall there being any gently sloping ascents at any point on the route before that. It stretched the legs out without asking too much of them, on these long walks, it’s very strange how these changes in terrain either make or break you. #
 
  We set off to Yr Ellen, which is gained quite easily by simply toddling along the crest of the ‘Black Ladders’ ridge, and then traversing around Carnedd Llewellyn, albeit off-piste.
 
 

  Peakbagger led us across very efficiently, despite being a towny from the Cheshire plain.
The day was rapidly cooling, the light dimming, but being up for so long, I found I had lost the sense of time that you get during a normal waking day. Day was day, there was no early or late, no morning, afternoon or evening. The sun was simply getting lower and less strong, and it was some mental effort that I persuaded myself that 7:30 (or so) was evening and it would soon be getting dark.
 
We paused wearily at Yr Ellen’s summit.
 
  Radder both looked and felt like he needed two snickers bars, he scoffed them in the time it would take a hippo to eat just one. I treated myself to a Red Bull Energy Shot, which have a startling effect on a genuinely tired body.
 
We made the most of it by whizzing up the scree path to Carnedd Llewellyn.
 
  It was easy from here on, but there was still a long way to walk.
The final three seem to come one after another.
A grassy plod to Foel Grach, another grassy plod with a few rocks up to Carnedd Gwenellian (the controversial 14th peak that makes the total number of summits up to 15), and another grassy plod up to Foel Fras, where you encounter a delightful view over the eastern end of Anglesea.
To be frank, it’s an easy end to the walk, if Elidir Fawr was to somehow feature now, the consensus was that few of us would have the mental strength to finish it.
  Foel Grach Summit:
 

 
Carnedd Gwenellian Summit:
 

 
Foel Fras Summit:

  As it is, the walk-off is 4 miles long, and out of necessity takes in the minor peak of Drum (pronounced ’Drim’, apparently). There was no anti-climax. The clouds up above to the east were doing strange things, spilling tendrils of vapour downwards from little wispy cups, I don’t recall seeing anything quite like that before.
 
  More to the point, the sun was going down. We had walked either side of dawn ’til dusk, what could one do without including an element of ‘challenge-for-challenge’s-sake’ of walking at night?
We had kind of naturally joined a couple of separate groups of 15 peakers as we walked off Drum, and now the last rays of the evening sun spilled over us as it dropped into the Irish Sea.
 
  As you drop down from the shallow slope of Drum, you pick up a gravelled track, soon a cairn of white rocks marks a path off to the right, cutting off the corner.
 
  This joins a fenceline, which soon begins to drop quite steeply towards the roman road.
Now the sun said its final goodbye to us. I stood stock-still as the last sliver of orange orb disappeared.
 
 

  ‘Plop’ I said, under my breath, and a few moments later we’d gained the roman road for the 1km back to the little car park where the public road ends, and Abs and Carolina were there to meet us with fizzy wine and congratulations!
 
  Thanks to Kirsch for the initial suggestion, encouragement and guidance.
 
Thanks to Scarface for sorting the Regatta gear, and to Regatta themselves - it’s good.
 
Thanks to my team mates, you all helped make the day, you’re brilliant - well done!
 
Thanks to Abs and Caz for the support, essential!
 
Most of all, thank to all those who donated to the cause, and still may now they’ve read this report.
solvitur ambulando

rdpounder

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #4 on: 22:12:32, 05/07/11 »
Yes!  Awesome stuff!  I thought of you guys and gals on the day... you must have drunk a resevoir of water that day, it was pretty muggy where we were.

aljones27

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #5 on: 22:16:08, 05/07/11 »
Awesome achievement guys. Congratulations again!


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gotmeheadshaved

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #6 on: 22:20:55, 05/07/11 »
Excellent TR as ever Joester. Very eloquent, well written and inspiring. You lot done good! You won't forget this one in a hurry! Another Tenner will be coming your way  O0
 
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docpaul

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #7 on: 22:24:24, 05/07/11 »
Completely barmy, absolutely awesome, and an amazing achievement! Well done to all - and a fantastic TR and just superb pics what's more!
 O0 :D :o 8) :o :D O0
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Cogstar

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #8 on: 22:26:30, 05/07/11 »
Thanks for writing that up too J. Great effort and what a day for it  O0
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Tryfan75

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #9 on: 22:34:23, 05/07/11 »
Oh wow.  Totally amazing report Joe and what an achievement for all of you to look back on with pride.
 
Incredible Crib Goch sunrise pictures...just perfect.
 
My god this has got me thinking...how can i make this possible for me?  Truly inspirational and again a massive well done to all who took part.
 
Perfection O0 .

susiej

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #10 on: 22:37:09, 05/07/11 »
Amazin! on top of your usual great TR, awesome achievement and lovely pics, I am mostly impressed by Radders ability adopt an identical pose on 15 different peaks...brilliant!  O0
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lovinit

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #11 on: 22:49:43, 05/07/11 »
Such an achievement - you are amazing  O0
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gotmeheadshaved

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #12 on: 22:50:56, 05/07/11 »
...I am mostly impressed by Radders ability adopt an identical pose on 15 different peaks...brilliant!  O0
He doesn't know any other way to pose, Susie. lol  ;) ;D
 
Steve
 
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ImSparticus

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #13 on: 22:57:28, 05/07/11 »
 Well done guys, how come you all look the same on each peak  :-\  Shouldnt the posture and energy slowly get lower and lower lol


Your end point car park looks distinctly like the one at the road end from Llanbedr y cennin and Rowen ? I passed through there on Saturday afternoon around 4pm after 15 miles in that area and was over Tal y Fan. I rememeber the green car and thinking would the gate open or was it in the way ?
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Little Bird

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Re: [Trip Report] 15 Peaks Challenge - The Welsh 3000's.
« Reply #14 on: 23:09:09, 05/07/11 »
I couldnt have put it better myself Joe, brill report  O0

I had such a wonderful day, thank you guys for being part of it, even Elidir Fawr wasnt as foul as normal! We were a really funny happy group throughout the route, the weather was absolute perfection, we met loads of other folk too, I really love this challenge and completing it all in daylight, seeing sun up and sun down over clear skies, getting my pic taken actually standing on Crib Goch rather than my normal crawl, wonderful breaks at nant peris and ogwen and a hundred million other little details all go to make this one of my bestest ever mountain days :)

The only part of the day Id change was that Nige would have had more water over Glyderau so he didnt become so ill.

Im just really, really looking forward to the next one :)

and of course thank you so much for donating  O0
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