Hi Susie,
Well done. Fantastic achievement for completing the entire GR11.
I only walked from Torla to La Guingueta D’Aneu & then back upto Refugi de La Restanca before walking out of the Pyrenees.
It’s great that you thinking of walking it again in reverse. Be only glad to help.
With your queries:
- did you have any issues with no-dog areas especially in Ordesa?
Dogs are allowed on the entire GR11, in Spain. I did see signs asking you to put your dog on a lead in the National Parks.
However, they are not allowed in the National Parks in the French part of the Pyrenees at all, not even on a lead. So you will not be allowed to go through Breche de Roland into France to Refuge des Sarradets and see Cirque de Gavarnie.
It’s important to know you dogs behaviour when off its lead. My dog chases sheep, so I made the decision to start my walk (Torla) early in the season (end of May) when snow would be covering the ground, as such there was no sheep as no grass. I did walk with Zen on a lead in Ordesa National Park all the way to Refugio de Goriz, then on to Fuen Blanca. On the way down the Collado de Arrablo (steep rock face) I got tangled in the lead and had to let Zen go.
It was a bit of a watershed moment, as he behaved well, stayed close & was off the lead for the rest of the walk (apart from in towns), which made my life so much easier as I could concentrate on the getting up and down the ‘puentes’.
- did you try any unmanned Refugios with Zen?
I did stay in a few. I always put my head in the door when I passed one, and most were quite dirty and unappealing. A local told me about one – which was clean, had a foam mattress & a fire pit (though my dog was not so impressed with my fire – too smoky), just before Refugio de Viados. As I started early this refugio & a few others were not open yet.
The best one I stayed in was the clean, wooden Refugio d’Anglios, but it took me 12 hours walk to get there from the campsite at Puen de San Chaime & over Collado de Ballibuena.
- do you have any experience of dog friendly hotels?
I only stayed in one hotel on the walk, a pension in Parzan, then had a couple of nights at the end of my walk. I had no problem with finding a hotel/pension that accepted dogs.
However, you cannot stay inside any hostels or refugios with a dog.
I camped or stayed in the unmanned huts the rest of the time, which was over 20 nights.
Apart from Refugio de Goriz, camping is not permitted outside the refugios. However, they never had an issue with me. As I was walking out of peak season, when there were very few walkers, every refugio just said ‘camp where I cannot see you’, and suggested good spots. I was then able to eat and shower in the refugios. If you go in peak season, this may be different.
I had to leave my dog in the tent each time, but he didn’t mind as I always came back with food scraps.
It would be a shame to have to walk down to a town to stay in a hotel/pension every night and miss being high up in the mountains, so you should definitely take a tent. Plus you can wild camp anywhere.
With regard to transport, unfortunately you are correct, dogs are not allowed on trains and buses unless in a transporter. I took two expensive taxis on my trip.
In France dogs are allowed on trains and buses, though they should be muzzled.
- Did you find dog food to be reasonably available in camp shops or the little town stores?
I posted 2kg bags of Zen’s favourite food to a few camp sites that I knew I would stay at.
In towns I did find tinned dog food and dry food (2kg min size), but often it was the last tin on the shelf. I supplemented his diet with leftovers from the refugios and other food he likes, like tuna, rice, pasta. He had enough food, though he’d probably argue with me on that.
As I said, it’s important to get to know how your dog is: on and off the lead, with animals around, on unfamiliar paths, with unfamiliar food, sleeping in a B&B & tent, on multi-day walks, on steep stony paths, on bridges, on being tied up whilst you’re away, etc.
A couple of important things:
Pyrenean Patou Mountain dogs, which live with and protect the sheep. It will attack if it feels its sheep are threatened. I only saw two. Just give them a wide berth and you’ll be ok.
Heat - this is extremely important and should be your major concern. I changed my route when I got to La Guingueta D’Aneu as it was too hot for Zen to walk all day, and I went in the cooler months.
Paws – Zen got a blister on the bottom of his paw from walking on sunburnt tarmac, so you will need to take little boots.
Below is a photo of his gear. All very useful, especially the bungy lead. I now have a harnass for him as well.
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I hope this helps. If you have any queries please ask.
Please see
http://www.walkingforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=34035.0 for further info.
Have fun
Ian & Zen