Author Topic: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)  (Read 1655 times)

FTSTTLB

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GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« on: 10:18:23, 09/03/20 »
Starting an new blog series about the GR 70 in the South of France.

What is the Chemin de Stevenson? https://wp.me/p93xVa-53

The Chemin de Stevenson, or GR 70, is a long distance path in the south of France. It largely follows the route taken by the Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson and his donkey Modestine in 1878. It crosses four regions: the Velay, the Gévaudan, the Lozère and the Gard and leads through the Cevennes.

Jac

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #1 on: 11:30:52, 09/03/20 »
Been there, done that - got the donkey :)

Great walk, delicious food, good places to stay, lovely views, glorious flower meadows (it was May), wine. What more could any mortal want.

Enjoying reading your blog - and now looking at the Ruta de Pedra en Sec.
« Last Edit: 11:49:59, 09/03/20 by Jac »
So many paths yet to walk, so little time left

FTSTTLB

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #2 on: 11:55:10, 09/03/20 »
Been there, done that - got the donkey :)

Great walk, delicious food, good places to stay, lovely views, glorious flower meadows (it was May), wine. What more could any mortal want.

Enjoying reading your blog - and now looking at the Ruta de Pedra en Sec.
It is indeed a fine long distance trail. How was your donkey experience?

Jac

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #3 on: 13:29:38, 09/03/20 »
How was your donkey experience?

!!!!!!! Not sure how to answer that - this is after all a public forum :)




Just between ourselves you understand - stuffed
So many paths yet to walk, so little time left

gunwharfman

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #4 on: 11:43:12, 12/03/20 »
Yes, me too, done it four years ago and I too really enjoyed it. My only claim to fame on that route was when I went into a small village restaurant and was met by the head 'Madam' waitress who indicated that I had to leave when I asked if they did vegetarian meals. She just said "Non" and pointed her finger, arm fully extended to the exit! Other than that I had a great time, reading the 'Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes' book as I walked made the route even more interesting!

I still read the book today, Robert Louise Stevenson wrote so wonderfully about what it is to hike, to look up at the stars, how to 'feel' the weather and to wax lyrical about camping out. I have all of the important passages highlighted on my phone which I read often.

I had one dangerous moment when I was approaching Florac, the footpath was flat and well looked after and as I strolled beside a raging rocky river to my left, the ground suddenly gave way under my feet. I started to fall into the river but in my absolute panic, I desperately grabbed hold of some bramble bushes which saved me going in. I lay on the path panting like crazy and then became aware that both hands were now bleeding, the briars had shredded them and for the next two days they felt really painful.

Definitely one of my better walks!

FTSTTLB

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #5 on: 11:55:36, 22/03/20 »
Yes, me too, done it four years ago and I too really enjoyed it. My only claim to fame on that route was when I went into a small village restaurant and was met by the head 'Madam' waitress who indicated that I had to leave when I asked if they did vegetarian meals. She just said "Non" and pointed her finger, arm fully extended to the exit! Other than that I had a great time, reading the 'Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes' book as I walked made the route even more interesting!

I still read the book today, Robert Louise Stevenson wrote so wonderfully about what it is to hike, to look up at the stars, how to 'feel' the weather and to wax lyrical about camping out. I have all of the important passages highlighted on my phone which I read often.

I had one dangerous moment when I was approaching Florac, the footpath was flat and well looked after and as I strolled beside a raging rocky river to my left, the ground suddenly gave way under my feet. I started to fall into the river but in my absolute panic, I desperately grabbed hold of some bramble bushes which saved me going in. I lay on the path panting like crazy and then became aware that both hands were now bleeding, the briars had shredded them and for the next two days they felt really painful.

Definitely one of my better walks!
Yes, I did read his accounts before we made a trip and then each day read the according chapter. It was a lovely addition to the hike. And sounds like a scare.

FTSTTLB

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #6 on: 11:55:44, 22/03/20 »
Prologue: Brussels - Lyon https://wp.me/p93xVa-5q
The nostalgic side dish

Our journey to the south of France began with a stop in Lyon, a place with a history dating back to the Roman Empire. A city devided by bridges, two rivers and many diferent eras.
 

gunwharfman

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #7 on: 19:39:41, 22/03/20 »
Are you hiking the GR70 right now?

FTSTTLB

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #8 on: 20:51:32, 22/03/20 »
Are you hiking the GR70 right now?
No, this is the report of our trip in august. Right now I'm in lockdwon like most of Western Europe, I guess.

FTSTTLB

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #9 on: 13:08:02, 20/07/20 »
De RLS-prologue: Lyon - Saint-Etienne - Le Puy-en-Velay  https://wp.me/p93xVa-5I

We arrive on the 15th of August in Le Puy-en-Velay, where we would witness a procession for the Holy Virgin. Le Puy is dominated by its cathedral, the link with Santiago de Compostella and a weird, gigantic and red statue of Mary.

gunwharfman

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #10 on: 14:49:39, 20/07/20 »
One of the reasons I like the Walking Forum is because of the 'memory prompts' like yours today. I've just had a read of your blog and I also remember the journey from Lyon. Luckily, I managed it all by train, I had to change once and I too remember that it was a very scenic route.

Le Puy en Velay for me was one of those places I just had to go to, it had been on my list of places to visit for a few years.

It was also the place where I had the best omelette ever! I arrived in the early evening, pitched my tent on the site near to the volcanic pinnacle with the statue on top, and then thought I must eat something! I wandered a few yards up the road and saw this scruffy looking cafe with two small tables outside. I sat down a an old lady served me, I think she was the owner's mother.

I chose the omelette and drank some local red wine while I waited. And then it arrived, Mmmmmm, fantastic!!!! I still remember it and have never had a better one since!

I went back to Le Puy the following year to walk the GR65 to Figeac. I then turned right on the GR4 to Rocamadour and that's where I had the worst omelette of my life. I sat in the garden of a 'posh' Hotel, the wine, beer, weather and the views were great but the omelette was terrible, it was running with oil and overcooked and I sent it back!

Funny what we remember and what we forget.

FTSTTLB

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #11 on: 09:56:53, 23/07/20 »
I agree. I usually read a couple of blogs in advance, when deciding which destination or trail to pick. But I like reading other people's blogs as well, part nostalgia, part recognition. And it's only "worse" now with COVID and the lack of new adventure this year.

FTSTTLB

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Re: GR 70: Le Chemin de Stevenson (France)
« Reply #12 on: 10:19:38, 26/07/20 »
Day 1: Le Puy-en-Velay - Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille https://wp.me/p93xVa-6f

On this first 'unoffical' day we follow a part of the Camino. Although today's hike is not a part of the GR 70 the landscape, shaped by vulcanic activity, is wonderful and the stroll pleasant. Sandy paths and wood tracks lead to small hamlets. Our destination, Le Monastier, is a place with an old abbatical church and a weird museum.