Author Topic: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011  (Read 7853 times)

Mayaculpa

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Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route Scrambling Grade 3*** (V.Diff ) 14th July 2011

Pronounced: Cuv-roo-wee. Meaning: Ridge between two summits (saddle)

Weather Perfect. Cool, Low humidity, Cloud free skies, light haze, light breeze.
Participants: Mayaculpa, Webb72, Al
From: car park at Ty Nant GR: 698152
Start: 09:00 Finish: 16:15
Distance: 5.2  miles  8.4k
Height: 770 metres

Timings for the route. (taking it easy)

09:00 Start at Ty Nant
10:00 at Llyn y Gadair
10:20 looking for start of arete 

11:00 found start
11:20 started to climb

13:45 finished climb
14:00 finished scramble
14:30 Penygadair summit
14:45 descending
16:15 finished


Is this the best scramble in Wales ?  Well, we have the best day possible to find out.
We know already it's a serious scramble, with no obvious means of retreat, requiring a rope and protection

Out of the Car Park we turned right and followed the road west for 200m before joining the Pony Path.
The view of CA had been with us from the start and as we got further along it just got better.

After about 1k we left the Pony Path and followed a fainter path East heading straight for CA.

It was about this time that the RAF started having fun. Three Tornados/Eurofighters entertained us with a dog-fight.
Very, very noisy.

We continued up to Llyn y Gadair. Now in full sight of the arete we stopped for a bite. The temptation was to swim rather than climb. To relax in the warm sun, do some fishing, but we had other fish to fry.

First thing was to locate the start, and we made a complete @rse of this. Basically it's half way round the Llyn. head off up the screes.

Don't go too far right, but head on up you will see letters CA drawn on the rock and this marks the start.

Here we put on harnesses, and roped up. The rock is sharp and abrasive, some holds are a bit polished but way better than the Glyderau.

We did it in 4 major pitches with me leading the odd numbers, with Stewie leading the evens.

We stopped for a bite to eat on the most exclusive Table in Wales, with the sun shining and perfect stillnes on our airy platform.
Sounds of another team approaching, brough us back to the reality we had a hill to climb.

The rock, though grippy is in many places loose, so extra care is needed, testing well before use and attempting where possible to use/habitualise the practice of downward pressure rather than swinging like monkeys on big jugs.

The last pitch saw Stewie clambering over a block the size of a piana, which from below, looks about ready to topple.

Finally scrambling out onto the plateau above we followed the cliff round South to meet the Pony path following it then on up to Penygadair summit.

Is it the best scramble in Snowdonia, well it is the hardest, more fun, more exposure, more sustained climbing in a susperb aspect, so to answer my own question,
Yes it is  :D

We met a young woman on the way  (sounds like the start of a Limerick). She was laying out in the sun, and our wlaking by disturbed/awoke her. She told us she was tired having spent an atmospheric night on the mountain and been rewarded with the best dawning you can imagine.

Rumour has it if you stay over night on Cadair you awake either a fool or a poet.


10 to 20 people up there enjoying a beautiful mountain day. I'm particulary fond of Cadair It's got the lot.

The descent was back down the Pony Path. with stunning views over to Snowdonia, The LLeyn Peninsula, Arenings,
Arans and Cardigan Bay. What more could you want ?


Here are some pics of our day.

View from the road at Ty Nant


Getting closer

 
View from Llyn y Gadair


View of Llyn y Gadair from start of Cyfrwy Arete

 
Marks the start of Cyfrwy Arete


Stewie on the section above the Table



The Table. getting off it (3 meters) is by the left hand block


Looking back down, a climber is approaching the Table

 
another view back, down Al preparing to climb




Going Alpine style. Stewie bringing up Al


Stewie tackles "the piano"


View over to Barmouth


View of Arete, and Llyn y Gadair from the Pony Path


View towards Snowdonia from the Pony Path


Last view of Cyfrwy Arete


Route

 
If you can lead it to water and make it drink, It isn't a horse <(^_^)>

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joester

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #1 on: 15:07:06, 15/07/11 »
Just awesome.
solvitur ambulando

mad max

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #2 on: 15:07:41, 15/07/11 »
Nice one Maya,cracking day to do it.
Freeman of Tryfan.
Welsh Nuttalls completer.
I am a troll,beware.

JulianC

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #3 on: 16:44:13, 15/07/11 »
Man oh man. Fantastic.

Crib Goch

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #4 on: 17:09:23, 15/07/11 »
Absolutely superb. O0 O0
 
 

Tryfan75

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #5 on: 20:32:53, 15/07/11 »
Totally amazing.  Respect Mike.  Respect.
 
Cracking day for it and what a route. O0

Cadairmanuk

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #6 on: 21:04:05, 15/07/11 »
Hi mate good report , I love Cyfrwy some great climbs.   I can't make out if you were on the Direct route or not ? Did you start to the left or right of the CA marker?  You remind me of me few years back I can see you going the climbing way mate , you just need more of a fix every time ;D .  You did well in big boots to be fair  O0   One of my favourite  climbs is Obsession although I couldn't lead it.   I will try and find some pictures  O0


Ben
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Cadairmanuk

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #7 on: 21:13:37, 15/07/11 »
Got the start of the Direct route  O0





Then straight up yeh ?





One of the best Belays in Wales





Sorry to steel the thread it's cracking route!  Any fresh rock fall at all?





Ben
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redeye

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #8 on: 21:23:32, 15/07/11 »
Fantastic Mike O0 Reminds me of a couple of weeks back when I was up there. I see the weather hasn't changed much 8)
Nice one

yorksgal

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #9 on: 21:31:33, 15/07/11 »
Excellent Mike  O0


It looks absolutely superb and a cracking day  O0 O0


You'l have to let AJ know this route, he's been looking at doing Grade 3 scrambles  ::) ;D

Mayaculpa

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #10 on: 21:48:03, 15/07/11 »
Hi mate good report , I love Cyfrwy some great climbs.   I can't make out if you were on the Direct route or not ? Did you start to the left or right of the CA marker?  You remind me of me few years back I can see you going the climbing way mate , you just need more of a fix every time ;D .  You did well in big boots to be fair  O0   One of my favourite  climbs is Obsession although I couldn't lead it.   I will try and find some pictures  O0


Ben

Thanks Ben. Spot on assesment, and yeh I need some rock shoes  ::)

Great pics Btw

I led pitch one, and from the marker stone stepped right (facing in) and went up the cleft (pro ? what pro). Took a pic looking back down from about 15m if this helps. Interested to know what options there are ?

Cheers, Mike

If you can lead it to water and make it drink, It isn't a horse <(^_^)>

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Mayaculpa

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #11 on: 21:56:12, 15/07/11 »
Joe, Max, Julian, Martin, Matt, Andy

Thanks for your comments. O0 Really jammy with the weather :)
If you can lead it to water and make it drink, It isn't a horse <(^_^)>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mayaculpa/sets/

Cadairmanuk

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #12 on: 21:59:16, 15/07/11 »
Ah man I need to go back and do it  O0  I prefer this route to mile stone direct on Tryfan!  Well almost , oh I don't know there all great  ;D .  You defo need to hit Milestone direct next , very polished but classic..


Ben
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Mayaculpa

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #13 on: 22:07:30, 15/07/11 »
Excellent Mike  O0


It looks absolutely superb and a cracking day  O0 O0


You'l have to let AJ know this route, he's been looking at doing Grade 3 scrambles  ::) ;D

Thanks Ruth. O0     :D :D :D

If you can lead it to water and make it drink, It isn't a horse <(^_^)>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mayaculpa/sets/

Mayaculpa

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Re: [TR] Cyfrwy Arete, Table Direct Route 14th July 2011
« Reply #14 on: 22:18:55, 15/07/11 »
Ah man I need to go back and do it  O0  I prefer this route to mile stone direct on Tryfan!  Well almost , oh I don't know there all great  ;D .  You defo need to hit Milestone direct next , very polished but classic..


Ben

Thanks Ben. It's 2nd on my list, but I'm not doing that in boots ::)

First on the list is Tower Ridge, just waiting for the next spell of settled weather :)

Mike
If you can lead it to water and make it drink, It isn't a horse <(^_^)>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mayaculpa/sets/

 

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