I've always been fascinated by the wild area between Bwlch Gwylim and Bwlch Tyddiad (top of the Roman Steps) known as the Badlands. This is part of the classic route from Trawsfynydd to Barmouth but I suspect that many take the easy option of diverting via Cwm Bychan rather than walking an area devoid of footpaths (according to the O.S).
Eighteen months ago I finally made the traverse, so here it is if anyone fancies a go.
Start point is the car park at Cwm Bychan farm. Follow the signpost for Clip which takes you through a small enclosure which may contain a ram waiting to commence his duties. Don't let him out! The path goes off NW through a wall gap and deep bracken. It's then straightforward.
Looking back at Cwm Bychan. The hill behind the lake is Carreg y Saeth and some of the land there is being bought by the John Muir Trust to preserve it for future generations. (details on their website.
The path continues past Clip.
Eventually you reach a stile at the top of Bwlch Gwylim from where a footpath leads north to Clip summit or Craig Ddrwg - but we'll save that for another day.
Instead turn SE keeping a wall to your right following a very faint path.
Looking back to Cwm Bychan
After a while you reach Llyn Twr Glas. (I've looked in vain for a blue tower and now assume that the name is a corruption of Dwr Glas)
Same lake, but the sun has come out!
Continuing SE, a few minutes walk brings us to Llyn Pryfed
At the outlet end of the lake where the last pic was taken, cross the stream and go up a bank. You will soon reach a spot on the west side of Craig Wion from where the whole of the valley is visible.
We now get to the interesting - and tricky - part of the walk. Much of it is on trackless rock plateaus divided by depressions and ravines. It's best to use the summit of Rhinog Fawr as a sighting point to bring you to Bwlch Tyddiad but you should walk in an arc keeping to the higher ground. As 'Tonto' was having a day off I had to do my own Indian tracking and it's necessary that whenever you leave any flat rocky section you should look around for a faint track or boot print to ensure that you are on course.
After some distance you will cross a rock plateau and come to the edge of a cliff (oh 'eck) between two boulders. With no phone signal and only a note with 'her indoors' and on the car dash, I spent 30 minutes scouting for an alternative route before attempting the 'Dodgy Drop' There are useful foot and hand holds; it isn't that bad.
Scramble up the other side of the ravine and follow a faint grassy track around a bluff and into the mouth of another ravine "Apache Canyon"
Walk up the ravine until your way is blocked by loose boulders, then scramble out to your right. The local residents, on the other side, may possibly come out to see what the disturbance is.
This pic taken from above "Apache Canyon" shows the mouth of the ravine which you have previously entered, the curve back around right to the cliff of the "Dodgy Drop" and then back left to Craig Wion.
It's now a simple stroll - still using Rhinog Fawr as a marker - to Bwich Tyddiad passing within sight of Llyn Morwynion
On the way you pass by what the Ordnance Survey describe as a "Pile of Stones"
Finally, arrival at Bwlch Tyddiad. All that's left is to walk down the Roman Steps to your car at Cwm Bychan Farm