Author Topic: Through the Rhinog Badlands  (Read 7551 times)

Penygadair

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Through the Rhinog Badlands
« on: 13:37:08, 01/02/14 »
I've always been fascinated by the wild area between Bwlch Gwylim and Bwlch Tyddiad (top of the Roman Steps) known as the Badlands. This is part of the classic route from Trawsfynydd to Barmouth but I suspect that many take the easy option of diverting via Cwm Bychan rather than walking an area devoid of footpaths (according to the O.S).


Eighteen months ago I finally made the traverse, so here it is if anyone fancies a go.


Start point is the car park at Cwm Bychan farm. Follow the signpost for Clip which takes you through a small enclosure which may contain a ram waiting to commence his duties. Don't let him out! The path goes off NW through a wall gap and deep bracken. It's then straightforward.


Looking back at Cwm Bychan. The hill behind the lake is Carreg y Saeth and some of the land there is being bought by the John Muir Trust to preserve it for future generations. (details on their website.


 


The path continues past Clip.






Eventually you reach a stile at the top of Bwlch Gwylim from where a footpath leads north to Clip summit or Craig Ddrwg - but we'll save that for another day.








 Instead turn SE keeping a wall to your right  following a very faint path.


Looking back to Cwm Bychan





After a while you reach Llyn Twr Glas. (I've looked in vain for a blue tower and now assume that the name is a corruption of Dwr Glas)




Same lake, but the sun has come out!






Continuing SE, a few minutes walk brings us to Llyn Pryfed











At the outlet end of the lake where the last pic was taken, cross the stream and go up a bank. You will soon reach a spot on the west side of Craig Wion from where the whole of the valley is visible.


 

We now get to the interesting - and tricky - part of the walk. Much of it is on trackless rock plateaus divided by depressions and ravines. It's best to use the summit of Rhinog Fawr as a sighting point to bring you to Bwlch Tyddiad but you should walk in an arc keeping to the higher ground. As 'Tonto' was having a day off I had to do my own Indian tracking and it's necessary that whenever you leave any flat rocky section you should look around for a faint track or boot print to ensure that you are on course.


After some distance you will cross a rock plateau and come to the edge of a cliff (oh 'eck) between two boulders. With no phone signal and only a note with 'her indoors' and on the car dash, I spent 30 minutes scouting for an alternative route before attempting the 'Dodgy Drop' There are useful foot and hand holds; it isn't that bad.





Scramble up the other side of the ravine and follow a faint grassy track around a bluff and into the mouth of another ravine "Apache Canyon"





Walk up the ravine until your way is blocked by loose boulders, then scramble out to your right. The local residents, on the other side,  may possibly come out to see what the disturbance is.





This pic taken from above "Apache Canyon" shows the mouth of the ravine which you have previously entered, the curve back around right to the cliff of the "Dodgy Drop" and then back left to Craig Wion.




It's now a simple stroll - still using Rhinog Fawr as a marker - to Bwich Tyddiad passing within sight of Llyn Morwynion









On the way you pass by what the Ordnance Survey describe as a "Pile of Stones"






Finally, arrival at Bwlch Tyddiad. All that's left is to walk down the Roman Steps to your car at Cwm Bychan Farm











gary m

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #1 on: 12:30:44, 02/02/14 »
really lovely photos, i have never been there and it is pretty close to me
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phil1960

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #2 on: 12:41:39, 02/02/14 »
That looks great, thanks for posting  O0
Touching from a distance, further all the time.

Peakbagger

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #3 on: 12:53:20, 02/02/14 »
Brilliant trip report! O0 The Rhinogydd mountains are awesome in their rugged beauty. I've been to all the Nuttall tops but I've not walked the section you did here so I think a revisit is in order for me. ;)
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sunnydale

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #4 on: 10:45:54, 03/02/14 »
Really lovely photos.  That looks a great area for walking  O0
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pottermuss

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #5 on: 11:10:23, 03/02/14 »
Brilliant report, looks a great area, definitely tackle this one in summer, thanks for posting.

DalesWalesLakesandPeaks

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #6 on: 17:29:22, 03/02/14 »
Brilliant. I tend to stick to the southern Rhinogydd, but these pictures make me want to try out this area in the summer.


Thanks for sharing.


 O0
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llandudnoboy

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #7 on: 19:16:07, 03/02/14 »
These photographs  show just how rugged and unforgiving Rhinog Fawr and Fach are, with the toughest walking terrain anywhere in Wales.
One heck of a contrast with the land from Yr Lethr on towards Diffwys and eventually Barmouth.
Weather permitting I will be doing the full traverse this Summer maybe in June or July when there's plenty of daylight.
I am not sure which direction I will do it, the easy stuff first or the leg snappers last.
I will be using my car as a base so will have to return to my car at the end so maybe Diffwys first.


angry climber

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #8 on: 00:26:46, 04/02/14 »
Brilliant trip report Thanks for taking the time to show me an area I have not walked in. Snakehips offered last year but I have not been back to Wales since then  O0
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Penygadair

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #9 on: 11:48:01, 06/02/14 »

Thanks everyone for your kind comments. Glad you enjoyed.

These photographs  show just how rugged and unforgiving Rhinog Fawr and Fach are, with the toughest walking terrain anywhere in Wales.


I'll agree with that, so I was amazed last summer to see a young couple with a tot in an ordinary push chair at Llyn Du under Rhinog Fawr.
 ::) ::)  Made me wonder if there might be a market for all terrain pushchairs with balloon tyres and self levelling suspension


altirando

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #10 on: 23:57:33, 06/02/14 »
HAS ITS own flavour, the Rhinogs.  I have done the whole traverse Trawsfynydd to Barmouth, and various circuits of half the route.  The fun used to be in finding the best micro route but I have heard that signposts have been put up by a misguided tourist board.  Definitely the area to meander through on a hot summer day.  If I were into wild camping it would be the area I would choose.  I would have thought it possible to use the coast train to link back on a full day traverse.

Penygadair

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #11 on: 15:13:11, 07/02/14 »
The plastic signposts have only been erected on a low level route known as the Taith Ardudwy.
http://taithardudwyway.com/
To my mind they are unobtrusive. With walking increasing in popularity I think it's important to ensure that newcomers to the activity are encouraged to try such routes and if we can make it a little easier for them to route find that can only be a good thing.
I walked the southern section of the TA in October as an easy walk after injury and was pleased to see a fair number of other people. Even so, the numbers were not oppressive as with Snowdon or Cader Idris. The bottom line is that those who live here need - and appreciate - the income from those who choose to visit and walk the area..

altirando

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #12 on: 23:20:44, 08/02/14 »
Couldn't disagree more.  The Rhinog area still has a feeling of wilderness,  it is a delight of micro navigation, solving little puzzles of route.  The rest of Snowdonia is seamed with easily followed routes and following little plastic signposts is hardly going to educate inexperienced walkers. Making it easier for them to route find without using a map will actually decrease their competence.  And pander to that attitude of not testing people, making it easy,  the result of which it was coincidentally illustrated today in the Olympics. Ski biathlon, fastest Britain 37th.   Hardly the badlands now, the title given it by Harold Drasdo in the Big Walks guide.  There will soon be a well trodden trail as all walkers follow the same route.  I can't see any income going to locals, there are no dwellings on the route.  And for every new walker there will be one lost like me.  I might make a visit in the summer, not just to remove the intrusive signposts but perhaps to place them wrongly, to take people down to the valley.  Anyone care to join me?

Penygadair

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #13 on: 11:56:33, 09/02/14 »
To my mind we're talking about two different areas; the uplands and the lowlands.


The Taith sticks very much to the lower regions using existing PRoWs and permissive paths the provision of which were negotiated between landowners and the SNPA. If you wish to turn signposts around, cause people to unwittingly trespass, and hence destroy the goodwill which exists between the farming and walking communities, so be it.


As for local income, tourism is now the main economic driver in Snowdonia. Walkers eat and drink (especially after a day in the hills) and very often need overnight accomodation. Events such as the Barmouth Walking Festival bring major economic benefits. If they didn't, there would be no purpose in arranging them.


I agree with your view concerning the Rhinog wilderness but, due to articles in the walking press and forums such as this, it is increasing in popularity especially at weekends, possibly as a reaction to the saturation of 'honeypot' areas elsewhere in Snowdonia. Times change and we cannot dictate where people choose to walk.


I'll just revert to your earlier point about using the train to Llandecwyn. There will be no trains north of Barmouth until May at the earliest due to storm damage and the closure of Pont Briwet at Penrhyndeudraeth to rail, road and foot traffic. The earliest replacement northbound bus service will not reach Llandecwyn before 9.00 am which is a little late to attempt the full traverse. There is no ordinary service bus to Llandecwyn. Trust this might help.




barewirewalker

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Re: Through the Rhinog Badlands
« Reply #14 on: 19:09:44, 09/02/14 »
A few years ago, after walking Moel Gyrafolen to Clip, I looked down into this area walked by the OP, as I stood on this perfect view point that over looks an area that should spark of interest in anyone, who might read a map with curiosity and understanding, I was fired by a desire to equate the terrain shown on paper and the overview of a birds-eye view provided by a perfect view point.


This is one of the truly adventurous trip reports made on this forum, it is not a repetitive ascent of familiar peaks but a true desire to explore, an area that is a worthy destination without clocking off a common denominator of familiars.


When I looked down from Clip 'Badlands' was the term that sprung to mind, I yearned to walk in there and explore, I later referred in passing to some-one with local knowledge, and the response to my description was  instantly recognised.


Thankyou for this TR, a reminder that I must go back, and walk/explore this area for the sheer pleasure of exploring interesting terrain.


A reason for walking that gives more purpose than mere destination seeking.
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